Anyone want to see another CJ7/401 buildup? [Archive]

Blown7

08-16-2006, 05:01 PM

I definately want to see the build seeing as I have 401 in my rig too.

What I would really like to see is the build up thread and parts list for the Blown 401. Especially if the supercharger stuff is so easy. Hook me up to that link for my 69' SC/Rambler Pro Street project please.

Ok you asked for it you got it!
First some background on myself and how this whole project got started 4 years ago. My first Jeep was a 1948 CJ-2A I bought with all the money I had in the world when I was 12 wayyyyy back in 1971. I was bitten. I probably overpaid alot for it as I soon discovered as my dad and I pulled it home the gas tank feel out in the driveway. To make a long story short I cut my teeth on that ol' CJ for four years learning to weld, bend metal, braze, and paint, overhaul that old "L" head 134. I finally got my license in October 1976 in that Jeep the day I took my driving test it was 36 degrees with no top, needless to say the Connecticut Motor Vechicle Inspector was not really happy to do the test and although he couldn't refuse me as a top is not a requirement for a Jeep the test was very short (actually around the parking lot) he did have a sense of humor and that began my lifelong owning of just about all models of Jeeps.

In 1977, I had a good partime job after school (Machinist/Moldmaker) I decided to purchase my first new Jeep having already owned (and still owned at the time) the venerable old 2, and a 3A and a 304 powered racing CJ-5, it was time to purchase the "New, improved, streched CJ-7 "( AMC marketing hype) I ordered it spec'd out exactly the way I wanted Renegade Package, Black with a white hardtop, power steering, powerbrakes, A/C towbar, the only thing I didn't want was Autotranny and Quadratrac. The biggest tires you could install, the infamous Concorde Deserters with white spoke wheels "I was King" My buddies and I liked to hunt and fish in New Hampshire, Vermont, Maine, run the Dunes at Cape Cod and that first year that "7" logged 54,000 miles.
Needlessto say that vechicle was the most influential thing in my life at that time. ( The venerable impressionable teenage years)

But always when I went to carshows or the drags or even driving on the street I was always drawn to the engines and cars that had those "mysterious" GMC superchargers.

Fastfoward 25 years, 3 marriages, 5 kids, three businesses, 35 different jobs one midlife crisis ( went back to school for Aviation Maintence), "killin and grillin" all sorts of wildlife, I was successfully starting my current business, (Aircraft Repair) i was chatting with one of my customers who owned years before, a custom drag racing engine building business, and still owned a 6-71blown, alcohol powered 392 Hemi powered 1964 Valiant. The "seed" was planted, the dream started, he loaned me one of his old 6-71's with dual 650 Holleys. Ipromptly made a blower manifold for my old 401 powered 1979 CJ-7 and a week later after grinning till it hurt, lovin every minute of it,soiling my pants from fear of the overwhelming power,and breaking the 20 year old frame decided that a new build was in order.

All that time I never knew that there was anyone other than myself and Herman Lewis that still loved the AMC powerplants discovered the internet and Pirate, and all the other folks that liked 4X4's. I had a stint in the 70's belonging to a 4X4 club in central Connecticut.

Alright enough of the B.S. as Bugs Bunney and Daffy Duck sung "On with the show this is it"

First I am going to show the building of the 6-71 ( the -71 series comprise the 3,4,6,8,10,12,14 series meaning the number of cylinders on the GM diesel engine that the blower is installed on, and are sized accordingly.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506018.jpg
This was my first 6-71 my buddy gave me and begain as a "as removed from a old city bus. ( subsequent work has been done to it since then and this unit for demenstration purposes.)
First comes the initial inspection and the disassembly
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506049.jpg
Check the rotor "sealing lip" surface (marked X) and the rotor lobe side surfaces (marked O) for galling, scoring, or deep grooves if it has them forget it the rotors can't be repaired the rotors are junk. Most people look at the outer edge of the rotor lobe, but this is not where wear is first noticeable ( the rotors will usually hit each other before they rub on the case wall, marked by the "O")
The outerlip (marked "X") or flat raised edge of the rotor should be at least .080-.090-inch tall.

Next check the case inside on the rotor bores same applies here if deep scoring is present the case is junk forget that blower as it is only good for a door stop. Also check for corrosion of the rotors and internal case if any is present again forget it. Also be aware of the Ebay "buys" if a former dragracing blower is for sale it's probably had a internal explosion (backfire)and again is unrebuildable ( I'll get to the "why", possibly tomorrow).

As a disclaimer at this point there are a wide variety of good high tech blowers on the market (ie Paxton, Eaton etc) I like doing old school as I said above it's what turns me on.

Next if all is well inspect the end plated for wear it isn't a deal killer it just can't be used as is.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506035.jpg

Ok guys enough for me for tonite I spent 2 hours on this already and I need to download more pics to photobucket.

Jeff

Blown7

08-16-2006, 05:05 PM

Fuck the jeep! Throw the motor in a pacer and show us that build.

or better yet do this
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y132/75bigchief/4X4Pacer120400.jpg

How about my next build, a blown 8-71 Indy 512 cu in engine in my 1984 Eagle wagon???( BTW I spec'ed this car out and purchased it new in 1984)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Aug2822.jpg

Jeff

piratebuggy

08-16-2006, 06:50 PM

Off-road you need to keep the dirt out of that precision built blower-any ideas?

JeepButcher

08-16-2006, 08:09 PM

This will be an awesome build keep it up it's nice to see built AMC motors going into AMC vehicles SBC's are nice but I'm a little tired of seeing them. The eagle is sweet I always wanted one. A built Eagle just screams awesomeness.

Blown7

08-17-2006, 05:11 AM

Off-road you need to keep the dirt out of that precision built blower-any ideas?
Try this link
http://blowerdriveservice.com/categorynarrow.php?category_id=3461&company_id=101011

However I designed another cleaner solution for my bugcatcher, I have to download the pic to photobucket, I'll get to that soon enough.

Jeff

Blown7

08-17-2006, 04:07 PM

One thing I didn't mention on my opening statement about my past and history and the most important thing which made this whole project come about is this is my second midlife crisis and I'm trying to recapture the days of my youth, by trying to build what I wish I could have had in my teens.

This is the front cover as used in the original configuration. It is not used, you can sell it on ebay for a couple of bucks.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506041.jpg

The original bearing cover is on the left, a after market cover (Dyers Blowers cover is on the right. You can reuse the original cover if you first turn the bearing bosses down to clean and install steel rings with a light press fit over the aluminum bosses. The bearing bosses are not strong enough to take the torque when the blower is being used as a compressor as in a gas engine installation. The dyers cover already has a larger diameter cast boss.

To digress a little and a bit of history, the GMC 2 stoke -71 Diesel engines used these blowers to suppliment cylinder vacuum. The pistons on every downstroke could not with normal atmospheric pressure fill the cylinders with enough air for a powerful enough charge, so the engineers designed this Roots style blower to push enough air in.
These blowers where manufactured to mount on some engines on the right side or the left side of the GMC block, also the blowers have outputs on the rotor shafts to drive various accessories. You may find as you look at various blowers some have a right hook or left hook ( a little boss cast in the bottom edge). This hook is machined off on our gas applications as they look crummy and it's not needed. Also after the endplates are removed the blower then has no definitive front or rear anymore the blower can be mounted either way.

However as the aftermarket hotrodders found in the 1950's the Blower in it's original configuration did not have enough compressive force to work in a "as removed" state on their gas engines, hence the reason the blower needs to be reworked (rotor clearances reset) to provide enough compression thru rotor sealing at the bottom of the case.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506042.jpg

In this picture the original gear removal and end plate removal tools are shown. You need a pair. I purchased these on Ebay but you certainly can make your own.
They are necessary because the Helical cut of the blower drive gears require that they be removed as a set at the same time. Speaking of gears some blowers had straight cut gears (tooth straight across as opposed to the helical cut gears shown) stay away from then you'll need the helical gears.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506032.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506031-1.jpg

In this pic it shows the end of the rotors with the gears and end plate removed.
The three "plugged holes in each rotor are lightening holes that go thru the length of the rotor. The smaller holes are balancing holes drilled by the manufacturer when the rotor is initially balanced. Also shown are the end shafts, they are mirror images on both sides of the rotor. They do not go thru the whole rotor they are actually inserted into the rotor about two inches and are pinned with thru dowels to the rotor. You will need to drill one or two more reamed holes for additional dowel pins in each end of the rotor and shaft. (This is known as double or triple pinning the rotor. )

To address a backfire in the blower, I stated last nite that is when a backfire ignites the air/fuel mixture from the cylinder thru the manifold into the blower. in say a Holley carb the backfire may blow the powervalve not a huge deal, but in a blower it will blow the whole blower assembly right off the manifold quite impressive if you ever seen one at the drags hence the reqirement now for a blower blanket as required by NHRA. Provisions are made in the manifold for this as a blowoff plate or spring plate but if the explosion is too great the pressure has to go somewhere and it fractures the Aluminum blower studs and sends the unit flying.

Tomorrow I'll get to setting up the necessary rotor to case clearances.

Jeff

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506036.jpg

mebolson

08-17-2006, 09:30 PM

Please keep us updated master.
E

PS: QT? How has that survived this long? Planning to upgrade?

4x401cj

08-18-2006, 09:11 PM

Fuck the jeep! Throw the motor in a pacer and show us that build.

or better yet do this
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y132/75bigchief/4X4Pacer120400.jpg

I`d pull the stupid lights off the roof and drive the piss out of this little beauty. :smokin: :smokin:

Blown7

08-19-2006, 02:57 AM

For this part of the setup you will need to have or access to the two machines show here. A vertical miller and a engine lathe capable of swinging the rotors between centers. (If you don't have these or access to them, next time your at a bar and if you meet a machinist buy him a beer and make him your best friend.)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506068.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/91926181.jpg

Or most blower companies like Dyers Blowers or Blower Drive service will charge around 250 dollars to do a blower setup.

First thing to do with all the case internals removed is setup the case on the miller and take a cut on either the top or bottom of the case to start. Then flip the case and machine the opposite side. This is to ensure that the case top and bottom will be parallel to the rotor bores. Remove just enough material to get both sides 100 percent clean.
Then machine both ends of the case making sure you are 90 degrees perpendicular to the rotor bores. The reason this set is done is because in use the blower may be out of specification by extended use on the original engine (and we all get alittle wobbly as we age)
Then install the rotors in their respective sides (left and right) in what will become the rear endplate. Rotor helix angle determines whether the rotor is installed in the right or left side. When in doubt mark the rotors when they are removed and reinstall back in the original side. Here is a picture of a aftermarket Magnesium Mooeyham plate with new bearings installed.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506028.jpg

I am skipping a few minute steps in this blower buildup section in the effort to speed up the posts and info. I haven't shown removal of the back plate (it is the same procedure as the front) Also the need to install new bearings and seals in the end plates. I recommend that anyone doing this at home find themselves a original GMC factory engine service manual for the -71 series engine. Any model will do as all the blowers have the same repair and service procedures (just longer or shorter cases).
On the GMC diesel the blower is nothing more than a air mover. If it is to be used as compressor the internal clearances need to be tightened up. One note of information here the 6-71 blower came in two different bore sizes (rotor diameter and case bore) what is called the small bore and big bore case. Either will work fine as the outside case dimensions are the same,but you need to know what one you have as the amount of air compressed will be different volumns and the need to size the blower pulley sizes accordingly. I'll get into underdriven and overdriven blowers and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506050.jpg
This first pic above shows one of the most important tools needed to clearance the blower a set of long feeler gages. I purchased these from MSC (The big blue book) for if I remember correctly about 35 dollars.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506051.jpg
The above picture shows how the ends of the feeler gages are bent, you have to bend these yourself. The need to bend these is so it is easier to insert the feeler stock between the rotors and the rotor to case clearance.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506054.jpg
The dimensions shown alphabetacally are as shown are
"A" is Rotor to case lower clearance
"B" is Rotor to case upper clearance
"C" is Front cover to case pin ( to adjust A and B dimensions)
"D" are rotor balance holes explained earlier
"E" is Rotor to rotor clearance ( also known as the "C and "CC" dimensions found in all Detroit Diesel repair manuals) every different model of blower 3-71, 4-71 6-71 etc has different dimensions) these dimensions ARE used to set up the blower. We change the other dimensions to turn the blower into a compressor.

The air gap around the rotors will significantly alter both the volumetric and the adiabetic efficiency of the blower. as well as determine whether the blower will make boost or destroy itself. The problem is that the blower is not easily adjustable. Clearancing the blower is much like blueprinting the engine.
Basically we want to set the clearances between the back of the rotors and the face of the rear plate, between the front of the rotors and the front plate between the edge of the rotor tip and the case wall at the outlet port (bottom of blower)and less importantly between the rotor tip and the inlet port (top of the blower) The front and back clearances are set by machining the ends of the case and the rotors and the rotor to case clearance are changed by realigning the end plates on the case, and then drilling the end plate alignment dowel locations and inserting larger dowels.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506053.jpg

Also reset is the rotor to rotor clearance "C" and "CC" clearance also checked with feeler gages. You cannot reset the rotors closer together or farther apart the goal is to set the timing of the helical rotors so that the clearance between any two rotor lobes is the same. The timing of the rotors is controlled by the meshing of the drive gears The way you set the timing is by machining the back of the gears the "rule of thumb" is every .003 thousanths machined off the back of the gears changes rotor timing .001 thousanth). The factory used shims behind the gears to set the timing but you don't want shims on a gas engine blower.

The most important clearances to inspect and hold are the rotor to case clearance at the bottom of the blower followed by the front and back rotor to end plate clearance then the rotor to rotor clearance. These dimensions are what allow the blower to create the compression, what we are dealing with here is there are no valves or plates or "switches" that will shut off the unit to allow compression, as in say a engine cylinder like the valves that close off to allow a piston in a closed cylinder to make compression. It is the speed of the rotors only and the clearances that do not allow the air to escape quickly that make boost. (A Turbo system and even a jet engine operate the same way)
If the rotor to case clearance cannot be brought in tolerance then Teflon strips can be added, thats where the term Teflon lined rotors come into play. Most race engine blowers are teflon lined as you can close up the rotor to case dimension to .002 thousanths of a inch and even if the teflon touches the case catastrophic failure won't result, however it's not good for the type of application for us as full race on prepped blowers don't run alot of hours and run cooler fuels like Alcohol or Nitromethane.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506037-2.jpg

So now the magic numbers for the clearances are front rotor to case clearance is .007 to .008 thousanths. To get that machine the larger diameter outside dimension shoulder where it butts up to the bearing.
The over length of the rotors are compared to the case.
The rotors are installed in the front cover and installed horizontally with the case placed over the rotors and then a depth mic is used to measure from the case down the rotors you want .023 to .24 thousanths. Subtracting the .007-.008 clearanace at the front that gives you a .016 clearnace at the back. Machine the back face of the rotor to obtain this dimension. If the rotor is short already which it shouldn't be but if it is or a mistake was made just machine the case to bring this dimension in tolerance.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506039.jpg

Then assemble the blower rotors in the end plates, and the end plates to the case together with screws (finger tight). Now it's time to get to the inside clearances.
Install spacers in place of the gears on the rotor shafts with the gear retaining bolts torqued to spec.

Then use the feeler gages to check the bottom rotor to case clearance. You want .004 thousanths here. To obtain this dimension tap the end plates around until this dimension is in in tolerance along the whole length of the bottom of the case on both rotors.
The top rotor to case clearanace will be determined by the bottom clearance, you really can't do a think about it but it isn't that important.
Next rotor to case clearnace is set, on both rotors the actual dimension isn't critical just make them equal on both sides of the rotors to the case.
So then you have to tap the end plates side to side which usually upsets the bottom tolerance so then you just start over and over till all these dimensions are located. (sometimes it takes hours).
After these dimensions are correct tighten the end plate screws.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1506020.jpg

Next remove the gear retaining bolts, and the spacers and install the drive gears and tighten the retaining bolts. The timing of the rotors are determined by the mesh of the drive gears. Remember both gears must be installed at the same time.
Then we check the "C" and "CC" clearance from the Detroit Service Manual. The clearances are acheived by machine the back of the gears as stated above. The varied dimensions called out for the specific model of blower are varied thats why I recommend getting a sevice manual for your model.
After all is well redrill the dowel pin holes in the case and install the oversize pins 5/16's of a inch diameter. Your DONE!!

Next time on "BUILD YOUR BLOWN 401" blower drives, ratios, and cam selection, yes they do go hand in hand.

Jeff

Blown7

08-20-2006, 06:37 AM

Did I lose everybody? No questions?
Jeff

piratebuggy

08-20-2006, 02:35 PM

For those rebuilding their own blowers I think you're covering it comprehensively. I'm thinking the majority of peeps would contact BDS and let them do the magic. Speaking for myself I'm waiting for the fireworks when this bad boy gets installed and running. Please carry on.

kingmick217

08-23-2006, 12:25 AM

Forget the jeep, this motor belongs in MY Javelin.:smokin:

I'm looking forward to the rest of your build-up... keep going.

rcurrier44

08-23-2006, 11:19 AM

You probubly haven't gotten to it yet... but did you o-ring your blower to intake connection or are you running a stock GM gasket?

We have had some problems with the stock gasket blowing if you have to lift in the pit to streighten the rig out. I think we get a small backfire and it pops right out. EDIT:it only seams to do it if you don't let the rig warm up before the run.

I have been told that milling out an o-ring slot is the cure... Right now we are running a custom gasket that has alot of extra material.

Blown7

08-23-2006, 03:19 PM

Blown7

08-23-2006, 04:56 PM

PART 1

Three different cam profiles...... Twenty different camshaft profiles which is best???
Here is where even the most trained experts have differing opinions, I have chatted with quite a few cam manufacturer engineers and what I have gotten in information has confused me to this day. On any given forum there is always someone asking a question about a particular camshaft for a given engine and I guess you folks know the rest........ Experts, knowitalls, unknowning, uninformed all the people chime in.

Sometimes you just gotta thank the internet that folks aren't face to face as some serious bodily injury would insue.

My disclaimer is I don't know a damn thing about camshafts, except that camshafts are the first thing a engine builder picks and builds the engine around it. (Wait !! I built a engine so I must have picked a cam!!)

Well yes, but to this day I can't say it is the best.

The answer if your building a Blown/Turbo engine is simple, if you stay under 8-10 pounds of boost, keep the OEM cam with hydraulic tappets. Thats it. End of story. Your done. I've told all I know.

If your planning on going bigger read on...........

I however chose three different cam profiles that I am going to run on the Dyno in November.

CAM 1
RUNNING DURATION .280 INTAKE .290 EXHAUST
LOBE LIFT .314 IN .327 EX
VALVE LIFT .502 IN .523 EX
DURATION AT .050 TAPPET HEIGHT 227 DEGREES IN 236 EX
LOBE CENTER 114 DEGREES
EX CLOSE 30 DEGREES ATDC
EXHAUST CENTERLINE 118 DEGREES
EXHAUST OPEN 80 DEGREES BBDC
INTAKE CLOSE 71 DEGREES ABDC
INTAKE OPEN 28 DEGREES BTDC

CAM 2
RUNNING DURATION 270 DEGREES INTAKE 280 DEGREES EXHAUST
LOBE LIFT .310 INTAKE .323 EXHAUST
VALVE LIFT .496 INTAKE .517 EXHAUST
DURATION AT .050 TAPPET HEIGHT 221 DEGREES INTAKE 232 EXHAUST
LOBE CENTER 110 DEGREES
EXHAUST CLOSE 30 DEGREES ATDC
EXHAUST OPEN 70 DEGREES BBDC
INTAKE CLOSE 65 DEGREES ABDC
INTAKE OPEN 25 DEGREES BTDC

CAM 3
RUNNING DURATION 280 DEGREES INTAKE 292 DEGREES EXHAUST
LOBE LIFT .323 INTAKE .337 EXHAUST
VALVE LIFT .517 INTAKE .539 EXHAUST
DURATION AT .050 TAPPET HEIGHT 232 DEGREES INTAKE 244 EXHAUST
LOBE CENTER 110 DEGREES
EXHAUST CLOSE 36 DEGREES ATDC
EXHAUST OPEN 76 DEGREES BBDC
INTAKE CLOSE 70 DEGREES ABDC
INTAKE OPEN 30 DEGREES BTDC

Ok these are three top cams recommended to me by supposedly the "Best" cam grinders around. Why the discrepancy between manufacturers??
One difference is the blower pressures I plan on running, The engine is built and capable of running 15- 18 pounds boost, however the good ol' Nickle Cast Iron block won't take that kind of pressure reliably.
As the best minds have found out the good ol' 401 block will give you 800 HP on a daily basis and over 1200 HP for short bursts. But as I refer to it as "there is only so many horsepower hours in a piece of metal" (for example a blown Hemi running 25 psi of boost will give you 4000 HP for about 3 seconds, a old hit or miss engine will give you 1 and 1/2 horsepower forever.)

Now to the valve springs you need a higher rate of spring rate than a normally aspirated engine as the boost pressure behind the valve wants to keep the valve open and the bigger the valve the higher spring pressure it takes to close it. There is a formula for figuring the spring pressures if your interested
Compute the area of the valve head in square inches and multiply it by the boost pressure.
another thing you don't need a full roller cam, all the cams listed above are full hydraulic cams.

So next time I'll tell what cam is loaded in the engine now and why. All have different redlines of course but none are over 6500 RPM.

To give you a hint what is in the engine now, the 6500 RPM cam is loaded now, so is it Cam 1, Cam 2, or Cam 3?????

Next time Cams, springs, valves and head work.

Jeff

Blown7

08-23-2006, 04:58 PM

Forget the jeep, this motor belongs in MY Javelin.:smokin:

I'm looking forward to the rest of your build-up... keep going.

I was told by my engine guru/tuner if this engine was in a AMX/Javlin it would be a 7-8 second quarter mile car.

Jeff

JakeCJ

08-24-2006, 07:00 AM

Great tech. Thanks.

ddestruel

08-25-2006, 06:42 PM

cam 3? ??

very interesting read looking forward to following this further.

Blown7

08-26-2006, 02:17 AM

cam 3? ??

very interesting read looking forward to following this further.

Correct!

The specs are Isky 5300
Hydraulic, Blown, hi-performance
Street & Strip use,
Pro-street
Fair idle
6800 Maximun RPM
Power band/2800/6500 RPM
Stall speed Torque converter 2600-2800 RPM

Cam 1 would be a very good Alcohol camshaft, hence the long Lobe center
duration. But Alcohol or any of the derivatives suck for a daily driver. These fuel systems have to be drained and cleaned after every race so it is totally impractical for a daily use vehicle.

Cam 2 is a milder version of the one I'm running
Isky 4200
Hydraulic Blown.
Moderate street usage.
Good overall performance & drivability.
Good Idle
6500 Maximum RPM
Power band 2000/6200 RPM
Stall speed 2200-2500 RPM

As I said before this is the cam I built the engine around. So now I have a cam lets turn our attention to what we need to make the 401 get the air it needs to make this puppy run.

Jeff

Blown7

08-26-2006, 02:35 AM

Just for some teaser pics I'm inserting a few old mock up pics of the 360 block in the old mock up body with the blower assembly on to get a perspective of what will be seen thru the CJ hood.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/JeepJan1705001.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/43a9e53d.jpg

Jeff

Nordic1

08-26-2006, 08:04 AM

You're going to have to build some crazy style roll cage around that motor... Other than that :smokin:

With all of this money in a bling motor... why not build a tube buggy?

Blown7

08-26-2006, 06:15 PM

You're going to have to build some crazy style roll cage around that motor... Other than that :smokin:

With all of this money in a bling motor... why not build a tube buggy?

Well first I don't have a tube bender. Second I don't have the patience for bending tube (and I do appreciate great tubework). Third and most importantly was my goal was of creating a capable rig that without somone having to guess what it's true heritage is, to the uninformed would recognize it as a Jeep immediately, maybe not immediately able to recogize it as a CJ-7, but would know it as a CJ series. In some ways I think it's much harder to package 4 links, 16 inch coilovers, a huge engine with a blower and still use most of the original (heavy duty aftermarket) frame with a 25 gallon fuel tank,( 2 ) 20 lb Nitrous bottles, dual batteries, fiberglass tilt nose, fixed grill, Oversize Aluminum Radiator (Waggy size) Warn 8275 winch, On board air with storage tank (gonna get some airsuspension coilover bags) hydroboost, and still stretch the wheelbase to 104 inches with the tires still pretty much centered in the wheel wells and still have 95 percent of the interior to use (almost a full rear seat) without cutting half the body away. Also the ability to carry cargo. My goal also included all the creature comforts my 46 year old body needs, heater, A/C, sound system true all weather comfort of a soft or hardtop, wipers and a full 10 point chromolly rollcage. That to me has challenged me for 4 years now trying to make it all fit. That is alot to package in a 4000 lb rig.

Tube buggies are fine, (especially that "Twister") but in New England I find alot of buggy guys stay home in inclement weather no to mention this will be a fully street legal vehicle. It has to leave my driveway, with my wife and dog do whatever I want to do, (trail ride, sand drag, quarter mile drag, mud, rocks, tow trailers), stop at the convience store on the way home and get back into the driveway under it's own power in any type of weather.

Jeff

piratebuggy

08-26-2006, 06:26 PM

A worthy undertaking-and I think you can do it. It may not fit the traditional Pirate type "Jeep" but it will be a hell of a vehicle. A regular customer stopped by with his blown 440 10 second street rod roadster yesterday. When he stomped on the go pedal taking off from the shop it sent shivers down all our spines! Blowers are awesome!

Blown7

09-20-2006, 03:03 AM

ultimatejeep

09-20-2006, 09:18 AM

Cool project

BigF250on44s

09-20-2006, 01:51 PM

looks really neat. There is a guy around here that put a 550+ cubic inch chevy motor in his jeep with a 2speed powerglide. The thing was tubed and fit some 33" slicks. It was sick to see a jeep on the street lift the front wheels 3+ foot in the air.

MassZJ

09-26-2006, 05:35 PM

bad f'n ass dude

Blown7

10-07-2006, 05:11 PM

Ok I found a few minutes to update this thread.
Whats going on here? I thought 401's where internally balanced?

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/MVC-788S.jpg

Besides what does internally balanced mean anyway?
I certainally didn't balance my crankshaft that way.

Jeff

Alright it's been awhile since I have updated this thread. Work has been busy and I'm trying to get the engine completed for the breakin and dyno run the week of Nov 6, thru 13 th.

Now I'll move on to the bottom end of the engine.
If you don't know or do know that 401's are internally balanced.
What exactly does this mean?
Well again I'm not a expert but I have a customer that is. Internally balanced engines are theroredically the perfect answer. You have the crankshaft at a neutral balance that means the crankshaft is balanced alone, without the need of the vibration dampner or the flywheel as part of the equasion.
The flywheel and the dampner contain the necessary balance within themselves.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicSept2106045.jpg
Above is a pic of the original vibration dampner from the 401, notice the cutout at the bottom of the dampner to obtain the differential balance.

Below is a pic of a high dollar Romec vibration dampner that I am using notice the same cutout
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicSept2106022.jpg
Theoredically they should be balanced the same within reason. The object is that each dampner being able to be replaced, one by the other.
Great if your building production engines on a assembly line, lousy if your building a AMC engine that will eat anything but a full blown 392 Hemi.
Lets look at the front of the dampners below is the front of the Romec dampner
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicSept2106023.jpg

Notice the symetry of the Romec verses the OEM (1st pic above) the OEM had the balance cut from the front, the Romec has the balance cut from the back. Still no big deal it doesnt matter what side the weight is removed from just that is is the same rotational plane of the part.
Lets look at the flywheel first let me say I'm running a Turbo Hydro 400 and I don't have any pics of the standard flywheel but I do have pics of the new Mondello flywheel.
First with this kind of horsepower, the stock flywheel idea just ain't gonna work. Throw it away.
Below is the front of the Mondello
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506012.jpg
Notice the balance weight bolted and welded at the 12 oclock position of the flywheel ( BTW the thickness of the steel in the middle is 5/16" thick) better able to drive the horsepower to the torque converter without shattering.
At the eight o clock position is the completed after balance lightening holes.
Now why did these holes have to be drilled if all these engines are supposedly internally balanced? (And more pics to come of the crankshaft that was drilled to look like Swiss Cheese)
The answer is they are balanced within a tolerance acceptable to mass production. We go around proclaiming that our AMC's are so good, that they are internally balanced. All fine well and good when we are comparing them to stock Small block Chevys. (Apples to Apples comparison)
However when we move into the big leagues of high revving, long duration, high power output, and engine longivity where the Nascar engine builders live they are no better than that old Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine on grampa's old push mower.

Thats when we seek out the experts.
As a aircraft mechanic I appreciate the ablility of some of the small Turbine engines powering my Helicopter customers to run for thousands of trouble free hours running of excess of 20 thousand RPM's.
They didn't get that kind of record without extreem balancing requirements.
Same with this engine I want thousands of hours of this engine running as smooth as the millon dollar engines I maintain and overhaul.
So off went all the rotating components to my customers shop (sure I'll throw a plug in here) Aerospace Balancing of Newington, CT.
First all the rotating components where weighed. As a side note all the Carillo rods and JE Pistons where within .05 grams of one another.
It pays to purchase the best parts you can.
Then all the calculations are made. The bobweights are added at the connecting rod journals. then the vibration dampner and bolt,washer,timing gear, key, flywheel, and flywheel bolts are installed. On the balanced parts usually done by automotive engine houses the parts are spun at 600 RPM and the crankshaft is balanced. Great the engine builder has done your crank and your wallet is about 200 dollars lighter. Your feeling like a king, you add to your signature on any of the forum boards that your engine is now balanced you feel the big leagues are just within reach.
Wrong.
When you have spent about 10 thousand dollars or more in balancing, then maybe you'll have the experts respect.
There is alot more to getting that engine to real life longevity using balancing.
There is where when my friend starts explaining about Whip balancing crankshaft deflection, piston speed increasing the piston weight ( that damn Sir Issac Newton and all his Laws) that my eyes start glazing over.
Just know my crankshaft was balanced at 6000 RPM at 50.9 percent underbalance.
Jeff

Blown7

10-07-2006, 05:14 PM

Now notice the front crankshaft cheek
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506023.jpg
Notice the small balancing holes. And the new larger holes. This was all done during balancing.
The rear cheek
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506022.jpg
This is what it takes to bring a real engine in balance.
Heres a bottom end shot of 6 thousand dollars of connecting rods and pistons.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506001.jpg
All this hidden away by a 12 quart oil pan.
Till next time
Jeff

IROK Cherokee

10-07-2006, 06:02 PM

Just a question, but why not splay the mains? All that good stuff in the bottom, and 2 studded mains? I know 401's are good blocks but this one is going to have "help" up top.

Blown7

10-08-2006, 03:35 AM

Just a question, but why not splay the mains? All that good stuff in the bottom, and 2 studded mains? I know 401's are good blocks but this one is going to have "help" up top.
Good Question!
When I started this buildup years ago all the major manufacturers had stopped making 4 bolt caps for the AMC. Since then things have changed. The build had originally not been designed to this extent when I started. It was originally planned to be a old school 6-71 carburated blower install. This thing has just taken a life of its own. I did some research to try to find some examples of AMC blocks that had during extreme horsepower runs cracked the main caps and the crankshaft out of the block. I couldn't find any. Herman Lewis doesn't know of any first hand. I am running a stud girdle not shown in the above pic that I will get into later.
Splayed caps have inherent problems of their own, first the end bolts are installed at a angle, when they are torqued they introduce angular stresses into the webbing that creates new problems all their own. On SBC you need 4 bolts as a matter of necessity due to the strength of the webbing. On a AMC 401 the webbing is a minimum of 1 inch.
Even the mighty 392 Hemi that all the dragracers use, has a stud girdle that is attached to the pan bolts. Even the bottom end of that great engine is inheriently weak as it has less thickness in the webbing that our trusted 401's do.
The experts I have talked to pretty much agree that the integrity of the 401 block will make dependably around 800 HP. Above that the block will start to fail. This is what my mentors and myself think this engine will make, with short bursts of the Nitrous a added 400 HP shot. Block filler can also be used to strengthen the bottom end. I chose not to use it. Why I can't really say I just don't think I need it, I may be wrong and at that point time will tell.

In summary I think the splayed caps would have created more problems than the original 2 blot caps that this engine ran for 110, 000 miles. And the block has taken a set to those 2 bolt stresses. I just want to reinforce them.

Jeff

IROK Cherokee

10-08-2006, 05:51 PM

I do agree that a girdle will help considerably. I just didn't catch that. Is the block O-ringed? How much boost are you looking at? I can't wait to see the top end.

Slagburn

10-08-2006, 09:35 PM

So what does the weight of the oil do to that precise balance job? There's probably a pound of oil sticking to/inside the crank and rods at any given time, right?

Blown7

10-09-2006, 02:17 AM

I do agree that a girdle will help considerably. I just didn't catch that. Is the block O-ringed? How much boost are you looking at? I can't wait to see the top end.

Yes the block is o ringed, I'll get into this later. Boost around 8-10 PSI

Jeff

Blown7

10-09-2006, 03:50 PM

So what does the weight of the oil do to that precise balance job? There's probably a pound of oil sticking to/inside the crank and rods at any given time, right?9

Well thats a whole disertation in itself for a whole balance thread. But I'll try to hit a few high points here.
First the only oil that most balancers consider is the oil stuck to the piston, in our case we added 3 grams as our best guess.
Oil in the crank is not considered at this level as it doesn't affect the reciprocating balance, the important thing to balance is the reciprocating mass ( the pistons, rods, pins) etc those things that stop and start twice a stroke.
Now unless the crankshaft and crankcase windage and oil adhesion have been thouroughly investigated under rotation (costs tens of thousands of dollars in itself) and add another 20-30 K for a aerodynamic crankshaft only then can you add the oil in the connecting rod journal and other adhered oil to the equation.
FYI a drop of oil is considered to be .004 of a gram.
So to sum up your question you cannot make allowances for windage as that is a unknown at this stage of build. Thats why Nascar can spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to build engines that go 8000 rpm for 500 miles.

Jeff

Blown7

10-12-2006, 03:18 AM

Alright moving on Stud Girdle.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1006001.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1006004.jpg
Best and easiest bang for the buck. (Or not bang :D )
Using ARP AMC 401 head studs.

Jeff

Blown7

10-14-2006, 03:24 AM

Ok on a completely different note, a project running concurrently is the modification of the frame and suspension for this engine. Now this is where I'm not a God, damn near a dummy. critique the front four link.
Some stats, I already moved the axle foward 6 inches. Moving it foward enough to clear the blower drive I'd have to move it another 8 inches that ain't gonna happen so it's sitting where it's gonna sit.
Lowers are 34 inches long. QA1 1 1/4" rod ends. Separation at the frame
4.75"from the uppers. Uppers 26 inches long (best I can do using the frame without cutting) 40 degrees angle at the uppers.
16" SAW's
Separation at the axle 9 1/2 "
Fell free to flame on this is one area I could use the experts opinions here

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306024.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306023.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506033.jpg

BTW it's gonna run on 35" Toyos
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicAug1006011-1.jpg

I would love to get this setup lower but alot of things get in the way. I lowered the drive train 3 inches already. And using a Aluminum body with a Chromo cage it won't be top heavy. But it will have a ride height about 6 inches over stock.

Jeff

Blown7

10-14-2006, 03:47 AM

And you have to remember there is alot of stuff going on the front end, here's a pic when I still had leafs on it.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10062.jpg

Jeff

Devil Dog

10-14-2006, 05:31 AM

this thing rocks the house.... and i am so glad i did my 401 before i saw this.. :D keep the updates coming!!!

IROK Cherokee

10-14-2006, 08:49 PM

Is that a dry sump pump I see in the upside down pic?????

Blown7

10-15-2006, 01:53 AM

Is that a dry sump pump I see in the upside down pic?????

No it has a 9 quart Milodon pan, dual line pickup.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306007-1.jpg

And to fit it in properly you have to mill the rear main.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506011.jpg

chris demartini

10-15-2006, 06:44 AM

This looks bad ass, I want to see it tear up the sand.

Where is there sand in Connecticut? Or do you plan on taking it somewhere else?

Blown7

10-15-2006, 02:30 PM

This looks bad ass, I want to see it tear up the sand.

Where is there sand in Connecticut? Or do you plan on taking it somewhere else?

Well thats the funny part the only sand is by the shore. This will be a daily driver, quartermile, small rockcrawler, and I want to do Gravelrama in Ohio and this place is about 10miles from my hanger
http://www.quaboagridersmc.com/videos/vidstart.htm

Jeff

chris demartini

10-15-2006, 02:48 PM

How do I get there? My jeep is too heavy and slow to do squat, but I'd tear that up on my quad.

Blown7

10-15-2006, 02:52 PM

How do I get there? My jeep is too heavy and slow to do squat, but I'd tear that up on my quad.

Quabag Riders is located on Route 32 in Monson, Massachusettes.

Jeff

piratebuggy

10-15-2006, 06:25 PM

Starting to see the method behind the madness. It's hard to see the big picture for the details, but obviously as the details are unravelling it's becoming more interesting all the time.
I think the main bearing girdle will strengthen the bottom end plenty-but no I don't believe you mentioned it before.

IROK Cherokee

10-15-2006, 07:34 PM

No it has a 9 quart Milodon pan, dual line pickup.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306007-1.jpg

And to fit it in properly you have to mill the rear main.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506011.jpg
Are you doing the scavage lines from the lifter valley?

ronald nekula

10-20-2006, 10:17 PM

Blown7

10-21-2006, 01:22 PM

I definitely want to see and hear more. I too am in the middle of a Blown AMC engine that I have been getting help with from BDS and other sources. The engine will be 446ci stroked and EVERYTHING is custom! The engine should reach 1500hp before the 400hp fogger system. This will make many of you sick, but this is a show Jeep that I also run 1/4mile drag racing with. I hope to display the entire Jeep in the Big Foot booth next year at the SEMA Show in Vegas. I look forward to hearing back from the Blown 7.
Ron

Well finally guys like us have a little better forum here on Pirate with the new Desert Race forum.

On another note from what I have researched about the AMC blocks you may be on the far end of block integrity with that kind of horsepower. AMC blocks will give you 800 HP reliabily. Any more and your on a fine edge like I am at around 1200 HP with the blue bottle. I can't imagine trying to get 1900 HP without trouble out of the stock block. I would use a Indy block but I hope this works for you. Craig at BDS is a very knowledgable guy.

Jeff

Blown7

10-21-2006, 01:39 PM

Moving on from the beginning I started with a Matkins level 2 chassis seeing that strength and rigidity are paramount to this type of build I started with this
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Allphotos007.jpg

This is after a week from the chassis being delivered. Initial thought was leaf spring suspension with waggy axles. I was feeling good.
Then I started Googleing around. This setup wasn't looking so cool anymore.

So I decided I needed a trackbar
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/JeepandBillsengine2-21-06020.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Allphotos010.jpg

Now at the mockup stage last year trying to get everything to fit
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/dec20th016.jpg

Finally decided that I had to extend the frame and wheelbase in the front by at least 5 inches to get all the blower drive and radiator and A/C condenser in there

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/JeepandBillsengine2-21-06032.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/7e2e7398.jpg

So now I've gone thru 3 morphs from the original plan.
This simple engine with a blower project grew from just a 401 with old school carbs in a CJ 7 to what is still evolving today.

Jeff

Then I thought well might as well try a 4 link

Blown7

10-21-2006, 01:48 PM

AHHH thats the answer to spring wrap on that back axle. Ok now where to start? Trianged's calculator, Milkens books, Carroll's books, Adams software?
How do you start? Just dig in and fire up the torches.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpic32010.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpic32013.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10003.jpg

It is tough to try to get a good 4 link in a CJ rear frame. I fully understand why guys back half the frame and build a new tube rear. But thats not me, I want a CJ that looks somewhat stock but has a "good numbers" 4 link.

I think the new rear will work well

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10043.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10053.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10017.jpg

Now I'm modifying the rear axle truss. I don't like how flimsy it looks.

Jeff

Blown7

10-21-2006, 02:09 PM

Of course at the time I ordered the rear coilovers from Polyperformance I ordered the front 16 inch Swayaways in the planning that the front four link would be a future project.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10057.jpg

Well needless to say the leafs didn't look cool with the coilovers but there is only so much you can do. Or is that correct?

Jeff

Devil Dog

10-21-2006, 08:21 PM

Nice work!! keep the updates coming..

Blown7

10-30-2006, 01:54 AM

Ok I've been straight out the last couple of weeks trying to get the engine ready for dyno tuning next week, I've been busy making the headers alot of work!
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1606051.jpg

Form tools I made for the dogleg port

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1606049.jpg

The flange tubes heated and formed

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1606050.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1606055.jpg

This is the flanges with the tubes

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1606054.jpg

The siamesed inside ports.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1706005.jpg

Cut a wire the length of your tube to get the correct tube length.

Jeff

10-30-2006, 05:51 AM

GEEZ Jeff you are also making your own headers! :D Your knocking my friggen socks off here man! You never cease to amaze me plane man!!

Blown7

10-30-2006, 04:52 PM

GEEZ Jeff you are also making your own headers! :D Your knocking my friggen socks off here man! You never cease to amaze me plane man!!

Well as I've told you before Matt, I was a tool die and fixture maker in a previous life.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I would have gladly purchased a set if any existed.
After spending quite a bit of time talking to another fellow in your neck of the woods, Ed Henneman of Headers by Ed I needed a minimum of a 2 inch diameter tube 36 inches long to get all the benefits of low end/mid range power actually I really need a 2 1/4 " OD tube to cover all between idle and red line but there is no way to get a 2 1/4 inch tube in a dog port flange. I could have as the Small block Fords do step up from 2 inch to 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 but I'm impatient so just designed a equal diameter tube 37 inches long. All the lengths came in at 1/2 inch total distance between 8 tubes 36 3/4 to 37 1/4 linches ong into a 3 1/2" diameter collector 10 inches long.
So to make a long story short I needed tuned headers with tube lengths 37 inches long and no one makes them so I had to do it.

Jeff

10-30-2006, 05:53 PM

What was the OD/ID that you finally used? We are looking into headers and using the die method is EXACTLY how you do it right!

Blown7

10-31-2006, 02:02 AM

What was the OD/ID that you finally used? We are looking into headers and using the die method is EXACTLY how you do it right!

Matt buddy,
2 inch OD tube with .040" wall. That is pushing it for the siamesed ports, you really have to pinch the two tubes in the center ports. Although for a 500 HP plus normally aspirated engine this should be the minimum. I should have used 2 1/4 " OD.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106022.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106019.jpg

Plenty of room on the flange to cylinder
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306038.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306036.jpg

Although if it was me, I would CNC the flanges as opposed to flame cut them like everybody does (easier to maintain location. You do have a CNC don't you???? BHAAAAAAA )

I didn't spend alot of time building the best headers, just good headers for the dyno.
I would have liked to get them inside the frame but there is way too much going on in there with the 4 link and all

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106005.jpg

and don't forget to "cross weld the tube ends in the collector

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106024.jpg

Jeff

Blown7

10-31-2006, 02:39 AM

Question for ya MC "O Guru of the almighty AMC oil pump". I used a old dizzy to prime the engine, no problem at all but when I turn the shaft by hand a dozen times and build some serious pressure and resistance when I let go of the shaft it will counter clockwise rotate like a clock spring is this normal?

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106006.jpg

BTW here is the dual filters

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct3106008.jpg

Jeff

fuzz401

10-31-2006, 06:17 AM

looking good cant wait to see what the dyno says :smokin:

10-31-2006, 06:20 AM

Jeff you are absolutely killing me with those headers man! Hats off! The other day I was drawing up a set of 2"ID headers and gave it up because of the heat it would take to form the dogleg...LOL As far as the oil pump is concerned it is possible you built up so much pressure that it needed to go somewhere and it turned the pump backwards. This can happens when you are usiing a dual filter setup and install the filters FULL of oil. When you use a auxillary filter you start the system with a EMPTY filter due to the air pockets that cause issues with priming. May or may not be the case here. Try the high 20's for your initial timing on that Camshaft.

10-31-2006, 06:20 AM

looking good cant wait to see what the dyno says :smokin:

Hey Fuzz

fuzz401

10-31-2006, 06:25 AM

hey MC

1tufcj7

11-10-2006, 06:12 AM

jeff ??????
are you going to run wag 44 is this
what t-cass and tire size looks like toyo 35" in the pics

nhgpnut

11-10-2006, 08:35 AM

Blown7

11-10-2006, 04:56 PM

Very nice custom machine work. kool build. Mind if i stop by and buy you some :beer: :beer: :beer: .Seriously tho AMC v8s seem to run hot when not beefed up ,is there any certain way your addressing this? I've run a couple stock amcs & 1 pretty modified,they all seemed to run a little bit hotter than an equal sbc.

I modified the intake manifold with two 1/2" diameter aluminum lines thatrun back to the water outlet and welded and tapped one new boss on the drivers side at the back of the manifold.
I also removed all the core wires in the heads, and ported the heads and manifold at the coolant passages. I also welded up the crossover heat riser passage in the manifold. I only bored the engine .020" oversize.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306004.jpg

Jeff

Blown7

11-10-2006, 05:02 PM

jeff ??????
are you going to run wag 44 is this
what t-cass and tire size looks like toyo 35" in the pics
Yes waggys for now, Quadratrac 1339 and yes 35 Toyos
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjjuly806026.jpg

1tufcj7

11-10-2006, 05:41 PM

I have a 1970 amc 360 built up. I will not bore you with the nut and bolts chit
but i can say this that rear will not last the frist weeken you run that motor...
that is if you like to have fun with you toys that is
the t-case will last but not long

spec's
1983 cj/7
built 1970 amc 360 efi hei HP 370 up????? 415or up tork
dana 44 front and rear 456 with lockers
727 trans buit with lock outs
dana 300 short rear out put twin stick
3 link with coil springs front and rear

nhgpnut

11-10-2006, 07:16 PM

I modified the intake manifold with two 1/2" diameter aluminum lines thatrun back to the water outlet and welded and tapped one new boss on the drivers side at the back of the manifold.
I also removed all the core wires in the heads, and ported the heads and manifold at the coolant passages. I also welded up the crossover heat riser passage in the manifold. I only bored the engine .020" oversize.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct1306004.jpg

Jeff
I understand how and why you did all of this except the core wires in the heads part. I've never heard of this. Not nitpicking just trying to learn. Excellent AMC tech.

Blown7

11-11-2006, 02:11 AM

Core wires are used during the casting process. They do block some of the heat transfer and coolant flow in the heads during engine operation.

Jeff

Blown7

11-11-2006, 02:38 AM

I have a 1970 amc 360 built up. I will not bore you with the nut and bolts chit
but i can say this that rear will not last the frist weeken you run that motor...
that is if you like to have fun with you toys that is
the t-case will last but not long

Well I really want to find out. Believe me I understand what I'm up against. Thats where I have made a full float 44 rear with 35 spline 1.5 inch diameter shafts, larger pinion shaft. Modified Eaton E locker with 3.54 ratio. No pics for now of the internals. This is one area where I'm trying to do some semi secret design for now (basically dana 60 plus strength in a Dana 44 package). If all else fails maybe a Camo 60 will I build or I have two Dana 80's to install. Everythings a trade off. When you add the size of a Dana 80 under the front and rear you trade off space and weight.
There are only two ways to get the tires to turn, use extremely low gear ratios ( tandem transfer cases with deep gearing,and low axle gear ratios with no give or high horsepower. I chose high horsepower as I feel there is more margin for cushion in the drive line.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicjune10028.jpg

Now for the transfer case the 1339 has a few mods too. If that doesn't work out, I have been talking to a couple of Trophy Truck four wheel drive transfer case designers and manufacturers.

Jeff

Blown7

11-11-2006, 03:16 AM

Dana 80's are friken huge and heavy
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/dd3ac759.jpg

Jeff

ElJeepo79

11-12-2006, 01:41 AM

Dana 80's are friken huge and heavy

Jeff

yeah but with the horsepower you are talking about, who cares about weight?

Blown7

11-12-2006, 04:01 AM

yeah but with the horsepower you are talking about, who cares about weight?

Well at first glance that would seem to be a valid assumption however weight brings on it's own disadvantages. First initial moving from a dead stop is compromised and also stopping power is increased. Second weight feeds on itself.
Lets take a example we all can understand.

Rockcrawling is extremely hard and unforgiving on the drivetrain. Hence, alot of folks install heavier drivetrain components ( Atlas and Stak transfercases, Rockwells, larger tires, 14XX, 15XX, Longfield, CTM type joints, ETC reinforced frame, rollcages, beadlocks) All these things add weight.
When a rig challenges a obstical all the added weight added by all the modifications must also be "carried" along with the rig to overcome the challenge. So everytime a wheel is captured held by rocks the three remaining wheels have to support the rig and power it thru. Breakage can result if the remaining wheels and drivetrain cannot handle it.

If it does great we go on to another day, if not usually a upgrade is planned.

Weight in any form if not needed compromises fuel economy, affects Center of Gravity, slows acceleration, increases brake wear, wears parts out quicker, increases replacement part cost. Not to mention you have to have the real estate within the frame to install bigger parts. Imagine trying to get a Dana 80 to have 32 inches of wheel travel on a Trophy Truck. 5, 6 or 700 hundred pounds having a movement arm of 32 inches is alot of weight moving at high speed or trying to get 8 inchs of uptravel with a Dana 80 under a oil pan the rig would sit 10 inches higher or more from stock and still have a higher COG at static ride height.
One way to overcome real estate restrictions is to extend the wheelbase move the axles further foward and backwards, which is fine but then 10 other items are affected from wheelbase extended length, to body modification to added frame weight.
All the time you have to added more weight in steel or Aluminum or whatever metal.

I chose to build for a certain amount of needed strength, but not added weight.

Even unnecessary weight will compromise a well built bridge.

Jeff

mika360

11-12-2006, 04:11 AM

Awesome absolutelly awesome.:beer:

1tufcj7

11-12-2006, 06:40 AM

your right on the money with that outlook ........
An amc motor in a stock form builts high tork by it's self
and with the up grades you did with my past experience
of breakage i think your rear will hold up well...........

see I always felt that a dana 44 should hold up to the job
and have not give up on that
BUT did not have any one that did the full float to compare it too

see I built my motor for higher tork at very low rpm's
hence lots of broken rear shafts if your rear holds up
that will be the answer in my jeep........

ElJeepo79

11-12-2006, 10:57 AM

Well at first glance that would seem to be a valid assumption however weight brings on it's own disadvantages. First initial moving from a dead stop is compromised and also stopping power is increased. Second weight feeds on itself.
Lets take a example we all can understand... whole rest of post

Jeff

Excellent points, thanks

Blown7

11-13-2006, 03:35 AM

Ok this is how the headers turned out
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-11.jpg

I also brazed the tube ends at the flange side along with TIG welding the tubes to the flange on the head side

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-12.jpg

Tubes are 36 inches long + or - 1/4 inches long

Back counterboring the bolt surface

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-13.jpg

In the frame

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-14.jpg

Would have liked to have in frame headers but again not enough real estate with the double four link in front, driveshaft and the plans for a mid engine plate mount.

Jeff

grtmtbiker

11-13-2006, 04:53 AM

amazing build where in CT are you located?

Blown7

11-15-2006, 03:08 AM

amazing build where in CT are you located?

Woodstock, and my hanger where the build is going on is in Southbridge, MA.

Jeff

1tufcj7

11-26-2006, 06:46 PM

jeff how did the dyno turn out

Blown7

11-27-2006, 01:59 AM

Still in the process of hooking it up. I spent a couple of hours down there last Friday. AMC's arent the first engine dyno manufacturers build the dyno's for. In this case it's a DTS Dyno. A flywheel coupling had to be made as well as angle iron for rear mounts and we had to use the original front mounts with a bolt welded thru. This week I get to go down for real to Kiwi and do the wiring and fuel hookups.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-31.jpg

The coupling.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-30.jpg

The driveshaft to the dyno.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-29.jpg

The business end of the dyno.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-28.jpg

After all is tightened the engine is moved to the right and is tightened down.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-26.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-25.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-23.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-21.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-19.jpg

And lastly a plug for probably the best engine builder/tuner in all of New England.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicNov-15.jpg

Jeff

wranglerboy93

11-27-2006, 11:54 AM

If ya get the chance post up the results. They should be nasty.

1tufcj7

12-11-2006, 02:55 AM

just looking for up dates an results

Blown7

12-13-2006, 01:47 AM

just looking for up dates an results
Yep it's been awhile I've been straight out finishing the front four link and getting the engine ready for the dyno run. I went down last Thursday to bring the last of the parts. Looks like Saturday we turn the key on the dyno.

Inside the control console looking out
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706010.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706009.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706008.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706007.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706006.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706005.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706004.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706003.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec706001.jpg

Jeff

Blown7

12-17-2006, 03:29 PM

I cut and pasted todays reply from a parallel thread I have going on Bulltear.com as it is too much to retype and link but here it is, sorry if it a rehash but won't happen again. I had spent 21 hours awake at the time and 14 hours of that time trying to get the engine to run. Still beat today, uploading videos on youtube as I type this.
First reply from last nite, Sat 16, 2006 11:46 PM EST:just got home, eating leftover pizza in my left hand yping with the right
quick numbers as my head hurts with all i learned today
693 hp at 5100 rpm
mid/high 5's in torque from 1900 rpm to 705 at about4000 rpm

edit more to do not running at peak yet
More edit oil pressure stays at around 50 lbs from off idle to the end but idel keeps slipping down a couple pounds every run idle at last pull was 27 lbs with 230 degrees oil temp.

Edit again I got 13 minutes of video, hey the food must be kicking in.
jeff

Today at 8 am or so

Ok after 5 hours sleep and a hour of uploading pics here's where I'm at...........
Yes those number where without Nitrous, I couldn't find anyone to fill my tank within a couple days. I should have started sooner but I didn't think it would be so hard to do in my area.
Anyhow those numbers were with pump gas, 91 octane
I really learned alot Saturday, so much so that those numbers were quite good.
Yep it's a street engine never wanted it to be anything else.
This engine was built for the purpose of a dependable daily driver, with years of abuse and beating to come, being able to run on 87 octane if need be. ( Although not to be beatin on)
Now anyone that truly knows what it takes to do that should be impressed with those numbers, and I really know now what it takes to get down that low running crappy gas.

Conversly, if I installed aftermarket heads flowed, ported and polished, ran 100 LL or racing fuel, increased boost to 15-18 PSI, and stepped headers this engine would have made, I was told between 800 to 1000 HP without Nitrous never touching the bottom end of the block.

But those number have serious drawbacks, it would never be streetable, it would have to be trailered, it could be a nuclear bomb at anytime.

People focus too much on raw horsepower.
People see a blower and think "God it has to be 1000 HP at least at 8000 RPM"

This engine was built to eat a naturally aspirated Chebby BBC 572 for breakfast,
A Viper for lunch,
and a new Vette for supper.
(all under 100 MPH straight line)

I think it does well for a 30 year old engine revamped running pump gas..
under 5000 RPM.
Add a 400 HP shot of N2O, 100 LL and the numbers are over 1000 HP.
(although I don't think the cam, 30 yr old heads and 2" headers can get the air out fast enough)

And as the days go by I'll give my thoughs/opinions and the engine gurus about how I would do this all differently next time if I was to use the factory block.
Enough talk he's the pics.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506001.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506003.jpg

Blown7

12-17-2006, 03:32 PM

I had to split the thread as I had too many pics in the original post, imagine on Pirate too many pics???????
Continued from above

This one of the first problems of many that plagued us from the start, I guess I shouldn't have learned to weld aluminum at the manifold installing this boss for the water outlet at the left side of the block I had a crack and inclusisions in the weld area arounf the boss, the guys showed me how to fix it with a hammer, pin punch, green locktite, red locktite, alcohol, and a hair dryer and yea it works!!!
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506004.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506005.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506006.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506007.jpg

Here is the blower removed from the manifold after a backfire and the blower back pressure plate didn't open fast enough.
It blew the base gasket clean out the back, note to self and others throw the damn gaskets in the trash and use Silicone RTV around the hole and the next time the blower has to come off use a 2X4 and a hammer.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506008.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506009.jpg

This is one of my best friends, customer and the guy that got me started on thinking about blower engines Glenn Davis, he built a 392 Hemi in a 1964 Valient at the tender age of 17 to drag race at the old Connecticut Dragway using just Smoky Yannicks old books, talking to Mert Littlefield, and just generally being a engine nerd. BTW he ran 10.1's in the quarter at 18 yrs old. He owns a jet engine component balancing company here in Connecticut and he's the one that did all the engine balancing on this project and introduced me to Greg Hunt at Kiwi Engineering.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506010.jpg

Notice the pretty header paint turning to charred carbon in this pic.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506012.jpg
Here is Greg Hunt on the right, and Joe on the left these guys give meaning to engine tuning.

These guys are like greased lighting working together at the dyno console. Greg runs the dyno, monitoring the gages, moving the levers, looking out the window, screeming orders while no can hear, and Joe is programming the ECU as fast as he can point, click, type, all the while as the engine is accelerating as it can from idle to 5000 RPM, all the while as the dyno is loading the engine. BTW Joe can type 100 words a minute)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506013.jpg

Blown7

12-17-2006, 03:33 PM

and last the last of the thread

How we fixed the blower gasket problem
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506014.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506015.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec1506016.jpg

And the last from 8:15 AM EST today

God that took a long time to post.....
Now that I didn't loose all the pics and captions some of the other things that went wrong.

The ECU didn't acknowledge the Crane Fireball hall effect crank sensor.
so good thing I had two backup crank sensor modes, the Magnetic pick up from the flying magnet, Accel dual sync dizzy.

Ended up using the flying magnet MSD setup.

Lost three 1/4" socket head cap screws (out of four) from the flying magnet wheel during a three session pull (would have been catastrophic failure)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicOct506093.jpg
I will weld that puppy to the v belt pulley I didn't need all the adjustablity.

The FAST ECU wasn't initally programed to start this monster as Craig Railsbeck and the FAST techs told me even to get it running at idle. The guys at KIWI had all they could do to get inital cells that would ignite this hunk of iron.

Hence all the fire/flame ear splitting pops at inital engine fireup.

The oiling mod for the Vertex dizzy/magneto worked too good, I didn't allow enough depth on the spirol on the shaft to allow enough oil flow down the dizzy shaft thru the bushings.
The oil drained out the bottom of the housing filling the cavity in the timing cover between the block with enough oil in one minute to overflow onto the vibration dampner. Even though it was fed with only a 1/16" inch copper line crimped in three places. Ended up removing the line at the right side block and plugging with a 1/8" pipe plug.

Water leaks at the end bolts at the manifold.
I will remove the manifold back at the hanger, fix the rear water outlet boss (and pressure check next time)

Remove and trash the stupidd intake maniflod valley gasket ( I will never use another one again in my lifetime)

And fix the manifold.

Reinstall the manifold with those good gaskets.

Never use a FAST engine controller again. It's simple enough for the average guys but not enough rows/columns for data.
Motec only.

Headers DO MATTER!!!!

Ok enough for now I'm tired.

Jeff

Packrat

12-17-2006, 10:08 PM

He didn't mention the actual links to the vids, but I found them on youtube (well I didn't see him mention them... if he did, ignore this).

First try: http://youtube.com/watch?v=Q3rbs8xXOcs

Getting there: http://youtube.com/watch?v=SX8ALp1I7AQ

Idling: http://youtube.com/watch?v=xKDKdDhjcb4

Load: http://youtube.com/watch?v=zHN28oWYX

Blown7, if I'm going over your head by linking these before you do, I'll edit them out. Dude, your engine is awesome.

Nordic1

12-17-2006, 10:40 PM

maybe I missed it but what were your final dyno number?

Blown7

12-18-2006, 03:14 AM

Blown7

12-18-2006, 03:16 AM

maybe I missed it but what were your final dyno number?
Roughly 690 HP @ 5100
700 FT LBS @ 4000

Jeff

Blown7

12-31-2006, 03:17 AM

Hello all, It's been awhile since I've updated as we have had the engine on the dyno for weeks now trying a bunch of things and getting the engine the best it can be tuned before it gets installed in the chassis and then gets to be chassis tuned. Alot of folks have been following the trials and tribulations on the Bulltear.com forum under the engine section.
He's one of the final videos running a 175 HP shot on Nitrous.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmvzACSpQVM

The engine pulled 867 HP
909 FT LB of torque

Now I can get back to the chassis upgrades very soon.

Jeff

piratebuggy

12-31-2006, 06:36 AM

Thanks for the updates! Looks like you guys manage to have a little fun while bustin your ass-that's a good attitude. I'm guessin these guys aren't charging you for weeks of dyno time? That has to be outrageously expensive.
This will be an epic Jeep.

Blown7

12-31-2006, 11:36 AM

piratebuggy

12-31-2006, 06:41 PM

Well it's certainly an experience of a lifetime for you-thanks for sharing. I'm living vicariously through your camera lens! If this Jeep is even half as successful as it looks like -it will be a crowning achievement.

diggindeep

01-03-2007, 01:26 AM

thats one hell of a motor i need one for my cj

smurison14

01-03-2007, 03:00 PM

Sounds almost as good as my 4.0! :D
HAHAHAHA just kidding man, awesome build!

MattyB4x4

01-03-2007, 07:14 PM

holy cwap...

Blown7

01-05-2007, 02:40 AM

So now the engine is being removed from the dyno and I have finished the chassis and it's going out for paint. ( Black Imron) again.

He's some pics

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3-1.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3.jpg

I used a Bluetorch axle coverplate front and rear to tie into the truss.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3-2.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3-3.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3-4.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan3-5.jpg

It's pretty tough trying to get some good four link numbers for the front but I think I hit a happy medium.

Jeff

03f350

01-05-2007, 03:04 AM

NICE!!!
Very NICE!!!

FFRubicon

01-23-2007, 06:28 PM

Looking good.

Can't wait to see it after paint!

Blown7

01-24-2007, 03:45 AM

Looking good.

Can't wait to see it after paint!

The chassis is out for paint right now. It's going to be painted Black Imron.
The engine is back in house for a inspection teardown and re assembly. When the chassis comes back it's time for full assembly for the last time.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan21-3.jpg

Jeff

crawlin'YJ

01-24-2007, 05:25 AM

Only a sneak peak of the cleaned up engine? :laughing:
Looks killer, what color is that on the engine block?

Blown7

01-25-2007, 03:28 AM

Only a sneak peak of the cleaned up engine? :laughing:
Looks killer, what color is that on the engine block?

There should be full pics in this thread somewhere, and the color is AMC blue from Eastwood Co.

Jeff

Blown7

01-27-2007, 05:09 AM

If anyone is interested on the disassembly and inspection of the engine after the dyno sign up and register on Bulltear.com, go to the forums and click this link
http://www.bulltear.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6278&highlight=&sid=cc3b6adef4f21a2ac94fd207d08d9900

Alot of interesting reading and info.
alot of stuff like this

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan252006002.jpg

Jeff

TeenyCAR

01-27-2007, 09:35 AM

You must like working with reeeeeally thick plate!

FFRubicon

01-27-2007, 03:56 PM

What is wrapped around the drill shaft to spin up the oil pump??

Nevermind.... Just read the thread over on the other site, something to do with the torque meter?

Blown7

01-28-2007, 12:59 PM

You must like working with reeeeeally thick plate!

Yes most of the shock mounts are 3/8 inch, and the link parts are 1/2 inch. If I had tube bending skills I probably would have done it differently.
( I like and admire your work) :smokin:

Jeff

Blown7

01-28-2007, 01:00 PM

What is wrapped around the drill shaft to spin up the oil pump??

Nevermind.... Just read the thread over on the other site, something to do with the torque meter?

Yes correct a strain gage acting as a torque sensor.

Jeff

piratebuggy

02-23-2007, 05:59 PM

updates -ttt

Blown7

02-24-2007, 03:49 AM

At this poimt the engine is disassembled and inspected, just waiting for MC at Bulltear to send me the new improved front timing cover assembly so I can reassemble the engine. The chassis is out for paint, Black Imron. Hopefully I can get to assembling this rig for the last time and get it running.
Heres some pics of the internals after the dyno run.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan302006002.jpg

This shows the acceptable marking you should see on your valve stem if the pushrod length is correct and the rocker arm geometry is correct.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan312006001.jpg

Connecting rod bearing and cap from number 8

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan302006003.jpg

Stud girdle still attached and in place. Who says you need 4 bolt mains on a AMC to make 900 HP?

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan312006010.jpg

Here's the journal for number 8

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicJan312006012.jpg

This why you pay 3K for Carillo rods. One bolt is worth more than a full set of ARP bolts. This 7/16-20 bolt is assembled to 100 FT LBS.

Jeff

Blown7

02-24-2007, 04:07 AM

On the flip side my main bearings caught hell from debris. When you have block work done the oil galleys have to be spotless (I cleaned with galley brushes gun barrel brushes air, soap and water and still some cast iron got packed in somewhere) and ended up in the bearings. I spun some new Clevite 77's in.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicFeb32006001.jpg

Bearings are designed to catch and inbed the bad stuff so it doesn't score the crank.

Jeff

Kickin'Chicken

02-24-2007, 09:16 AM

Jeff
If you need another QT case, I got one.......

PDE

04-11-2007, 06:54 PM

Any updates and a good place to research blown motors? Mainly the 392 hemi? I can get one for free:D

motomac3

04-11-2007, 10:39 PM

unbelievable attention to detail.....keep it coming!!!

Blown7

04-13-2007, 03:40 AM

Well not alot to update at this time, right now I'm working on my end with Matt from Bulltear.com on what I hope will be the end all solution to a AMC engine with all the oil problems that ever existed from day one. Hopefully this system will give idle pressures in the 30 PSI range for high performance AMC's.

My reason for doing this is given the bearing clearances that I have determined to be needed for this engine that in the 3000 RPM range I want to see oil pressure in the range of 70 PSI when the Nitrous enters the cylinders. Nitrous increases cylinder pressure dramatically, which then loads the bearings (and really the oil film between the journal and bearing) to very high loads. 70 PSI is a good number I want to see. The OEM pump would give that but then at the higher RPM bands the pressure would be too high and spin a bearing.

And of course then other changes to the oiling system will be modified. I have decided to use a wet sump system that feeds to a dry sump tank using scavage pumps. At this time I want Matt to focus on his end so we can get this done and after that,I myself think that this new fresh design of the new timing cover he is working on will keep him busy manufacturing for the rest of his life, or as long as folks use AMC V-8 blocks.

Needless to say this won't be a economical alternative to the standard cast front timing cover, but for high dollar, high performance AMC's this will be the end all to the standard AMC oiling questions/problems.

Heres a pic of the new pump.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicApr22007018.jpg

I really don't want to post more right now, as maybe he would like to keep things propriatary on his end, after all he's the one thru his vision that allowed me to work off his initail design to do what I'd like to do.
As far as I'm concened,as long as my system works he is really the smart guy that will bring this project to reality and should deserve all the credit. Without guys like him spending his life and time devoted to keeping AMC engine parts available the old AMC's would not be financially viable to build or overhaul.

Jeff

Jeff

Blown7

04-13-2007, 03:59 AM

Any updates and a good place to research blown motors? Mainly the 392 hemi? I can get one for free:D

Well the internet is really from what I've seen NOT a good place for that information. Some old time engine build do it yourself books from the 1970's regarding supercharging and turbocharging give more information than what is out there now.

Most of the shops really don't want folks to know how really simple a blown engine is.

I was fortunate that one of my best friends and customer was a Blown 392 Hemi builder/racer in the 1970's who made friends with the likes of Mert Littlefield and Gary Dyers, some of the pioneers of these modifications.

I'll try to get into the basics of building a blown engine if you'd like sometime in the near future when I have a few minutes. It really is not difficult, just building a very strong bottom end for high boost applications and vertually nothing to do on low boost (under 5 PSI applications) add extra fuel, good breathing (in and out) and adjust timing to less and have a durable ignition system that will always fire.

Jeff

motomac3

06-11-2007, 11:56 PM

how about some updates on this beast?

Blown7

06-16-2007, 06:30 AM

how about some updates on this beast?

Ok you got it.
I just got the chassis back this week after almost 6 months at one of my customers shops.

Just painted it this week with 8 coats of gloss black Imron.

I'll get some pics and in a couple weeks after the paint hardens enough final assembly will begin.

BTW I've been gone from the site for a couple months as I have been playing and modding my new toy.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicApr112007006.jpg

Yea it's not off road rated..........
but damn they can go like hell on the pavement

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/IMGP1172.jpg

So what I'm working on the GCSRT8 is modifying the PCM to tune the 6.1 Hemi to gat another 75 HP out of it.

The new can bus vehicles like the JK have so much potential with a good tune.

Here's a reference thread on my newest tech for those interested.

Imagine a TJ or JK with 800 HP with a 6.1

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4504

Plus my buddy MC at Bulltear is working on a new faultless oil pump drive housing for the 401.

Jeff

Blown7

06-16-2007, 06:38 AM

BTW the new Jeep is trying to be retrofitted with one of these with a Whipple

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/392.gif

Jeff

Packrat

06-16-2007, 06:42 AM

Wow, now THAT looks like a lot of fun. When you've got time, I'd be interested in that write-up on blowers as well. Looks like you've got your fun set up for quite some time.

Po' riggity

06-16-2007, 05:02 PM

This build is just awesome. I love how much you are thinking out of the box on it. I hope the oil pressure 401 problem works out for you, as it seems its going to. And, on to that Grand Cherokee, that thing is PIMP. Now, my only question is, what kinda drugs do you sell to afford this stuff? :flipoff2:
Scott

Blown7

06-16-2007, 05:09 PM

Blown7

06-18-2007, 06:42 PM

Some pics

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Eagle022.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Eagle024.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Eagle025.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Eagle027.jpg

Po' riggity

06-18-2007, 09:02 PM

Lookin really nice.. that frame came out GREAT!
Scott

Blown7

06-27-2007, 04:41 PM

So now it's time to demask, clean overspray and start installing all the chassis parts back on.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/pcmwed6-27001.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/pcmwed6-27002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/pcmwed6-27003.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/pcmwed6-27005.jpg

Maybe I can get some of my shop space back.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/pcmwed6-27006.jpg

Jeff

motomac3

06-27-2007, 07:53 PM

lookin good.....keep it up!!

piratebuggy

06-28-2007, 05:20 AM

Did you get all the engine issues sorted out?

Blown7

07-02-2007, 05:41 PM

Did you get all the engine issues sorted out?

Still waiting for that guy mysteriously called MC up there in the great cold state of Mineeeesotttta from the fictional company of Bulltear to get the new suppper secccret part finished.

Blown7

07-02-2007, 05:51 PM

So it sits on the new rubber

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July22007008.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July22007011.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July22007012.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July22007006.jpg

piratebuggy

07-04-2007, 06:41 AM

1. Did you come up with the axle hub quick disconnect for the sway bar?
2. I've often wondered about how much of an impact the winch has on air flow thru the radiator- any thoughts?

Blown7

07-05-2007, 12:48 AM

1. Did you come up with the axle hub quick disconnect for the sway bar?
2. I've often wondered about how much of an impact the winch has on air flow thru the radiator- any thoughts?

1 The Swaybar is a Rockloc, it's just a aftermarket unit with some modifications to fit the CJ.
2 Yes airflow is a concern, but after you see the finished product you will understand how I tried to get every inch exposed, even behind the headlights by mounting them out 1 inch to get airflow behind them and moving the parking lights/turnsignals

Jeff

08-13-2007, 03:24 PM

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jcoverp3.jpg

Here is the first block to be machined. It is approximately 12"s by 17"s and is 1.25" thick. A spendy piece of aluminum. Chucked a sharpie into the spindle and let the machine draw the outline of the part of the aluminum. Piccasso. The inside line the the exact path of a 2 flute 3/4" endmill spinning at 5200rpm and 27 inches per minute. This cover will incorporate a Morosso 5 stage dry sump pump using a chain from where the stock fuel pump eccentric was
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc1.jpg
Time to pop some holes
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc2.jpg
Milling out the cavity for gear and chain clearance
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc3.jpg
Roughing out the cavity for the dry sump chain
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc4.jpg
Cavity all clear
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc5.jpg
Milled down extra stock for a 1.2500 thickness and a flat surface.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc6.jpg
Holes tapped and the precision dry sump hole reamed out
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc7.jpg
RE_FIXTURE..If you look closely you will see the oil control grooves for a no leak condition on a soft gasket. This is the finale staging for the profile on the base plate. From here is will get a counterbore in the back and be flipped over for oil pan seal and tapped holes for the two front pan bolts.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jc8.jpg
Finished the backing plate
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/jeffscover45.jpg

Updates coming soon

Blown7

08-13-2007, 06:51 PM

So if you folks were wondering whats been happening.........
this is the key piece I've been waiting for from MC at Bulltear
to complete the engine.

Keep those pics coming Buddy!!!

Jeff

soonerok

08-27-2007, 05:22 AM

Any Updates?

09-06-2007, 05:54 AM

Here is Jeff's timing cover ;) :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/tease6.jpg

redneckengineered

09-06-2007, 01:46 PM

Wow, what a hack job. Booty fab at its finest.

MrClemons

09-06-2007, 08:07 PM

Here is Jeff's timing cover ;) :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/tease6.jpg

if you dont mind me asking, what would something that beautiful cost?

09-09-2007, 09:44 PM

if you dont mind me asking, what would something that beautiful cost?

$1 :D

09-09-2007, 09:47 PM

Wow, what a hack job. Booty fab at its finest.

:laughing:

desertCJ

09-09-2007, 10:31 PM

Nice part. Why are you using a 2 flute 3/4" endmill though for that roughing?

09-10-2007, 12:51 PM

Nice part. Why are you using a 2 flute 3/4" endmill though for that roughing?

:flipoff2: because I didnt have any high helix 3 fluters...only a 2

desertCJ

09-10-2007, 01:15 PM

Good reason:D You don't like indexibles?

09-10-2007, 01:51 PM

Good reason:D You don't like indexibles?

For aluminum? I dont know of any indexable high helix endmill for roughing and finishing in one op for aluminum.

desertCJ

09-10-2007, 04:05 PM

For aluminum? I dont know of any indexable high helix endmill for roughing and finishing in one op for aluminum.

You have a tool changer on your mill don't you? I was taught to push through the roughing as fast as you can and then take your time on the finishing. We have indexable cutters for aluminum that tear through material FAST. You obviously know what you're doing, I was just wondering about the tooling you use. Always interesting to see how other people do stuff.

09-10-2007, 05:42 PM

We only use indexable tools when we are milling/finishing steel. We do have some burnishing indexable endmills that give aluminum a mirror finish but for this project one tool does alot of work. We have 21 pot tool changers in our mills. All cat 40. The use of indexable endmills on aluminum really depends on the programmer/budget/machine. If I was a programmer only (I cant stand those that are) then I might be inclined to simple program a toolpath from a solid on cad. I use tool paths and different tools that are much faster than a indexable ball EM running at 10K and 100ipm with a .06 depth of cut. There are many ways to go and being a machine shop owner I dont like to beat on the equipment. Our oldest mill is a 1994 and is still accurate to .0001 repeatability because we dont run 100% rapid or 100% spindle load or 100%rpm frequently. Thats pretty much how I like to run the machines here. Some shops lease equipment for production but I dont want production in our shop. I love the small runs and prototypes....keeps a guy sharp.

desertCJ

09-10-2007, 05:53 PM

Yeah, for small runs it's not really worth it to squeeze every last second out of the run time, but it adds up over 100 parts. The indexible I was talking about is an Iscar and I think we can do something like 150-200 IPM at .125 max DOC spinning 7500RPM(WFO). Like I said, I was just curious. Nice work.

09-10-2007, 06:36 PM

I love the Iscar stuff. A good friend of mine drops by all the time and we blow up tools for free. He is a rep out here. I also have a buddy who is a Allied drill rep....both of those outfits have my favorite tools. I use iscars APKT IC328s alot.

soonerok

10-17-2007, 07:09 AM

Got that engine installed yet? Any more progress?

Blown7

03-17-2008, 05:34 PM

Got that engine installed yet? Any more progress?

Well almost a year later and the key part finally arrived today, one of the most beautiful custom CNC'd parts I've ever seen for a AMC engine, as a matter of fact next week MC I'm gonna send you a big billet of Aluminum to make me an aluminum 401 block LOL!!!

The happiest day of that last year happened today, my main man MC delivered!

Here's some pics

I'm going to drill and tap a 1/4 NPT to have an oil drainback to the sump

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708001.jpg

I'm going to have to mill off this boss as I need all the space I can get to adjust the alternator

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708004.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708005.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708006.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708008.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708009.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708012.jpg

I'm going to drill thru and use a double nut to be able to use my alternator and A/C brackets
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/march1708007-1.jpg

So now I'll get back on schedule finishing this up this year, update coming as things get going again

Jeff

Big79'Terry

03-18-2008, 07:00 PM

Blown 7; Been looking for this project for awhile:(! Glad to see ya' brought it back. Can't wait to see the rest of your handiwork.:D

IROK Cherokee

03-18-2008, 08:22 PM

Yeah!! Nice to see this back. I bet that cover wont leak like the factory one did.

Blown7

04-05-2008, 05:07 PM

Ok so I got a little work done, I decided on 2 inch diameter number 25 chain sprockets I couldn't find a supplier that sells double sprockets for 25 chain so I had to make my own.
I got the camshaft side done and the sprocket made for the Moroso Oil Pump.

Notice the fuel pump eccentric is gone foreever as the engine runs the big Aeromotive fuel pump. I had to face off the back of both the camshaft sprocket and the crank sprocket as I needed every thousandth of an inch to get everything to package correctly. At present the timing chain has 15 thousandths clearance between itself and the block.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/April508036.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/April508037.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/April508038.jpg

jpfrk2001

04-22-2008, 05:38 PM

WOW, that is awsome. I like the tech about the valve springs in forced induction systems. Im a member of the forced induction crowd. I gotta turbo on my stock 4.0 inline 6 running 5 pounds of boost. But mine is nothing compared to yours.

impressed.

updates?

Blown7

05-07-2008, 04:19 PM

So after a couple weeks of in house rework and finish the last is done and I can move on

So now the final pics
I had to weld a 1 inch pipe coupling to the end of the H2O pump as the new pulley will be too close to the stock radiator clamp location, after TIG welding I brazed over the weld to close any porosity I may have had in the weld as changing the pump will be a PIA due to the tightness of the installed engine in the chassis.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008008.jpg

]

On the hoist ready to be installed in the new chassis after 6 long years

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008020.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008021.jpg

Installed pics of pump clearance

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008024.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008025.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008028.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008029.jpg

And the final pics of the engine installed
I still have to get the correct length bellhousing bolts.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008034.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008035.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/May72008036.jpg

And again a big Thank You to MC from Bulltear for putting up with this project and still sending custom finish up parts like a billet aluminum water pump pulley !

Jeff

piratebuggy

05-07-2008, 06:42 PM

Wow - I had to go back and reread the beginning of this thread-it's been along time coming. It'll be sweet to see this project on wheels!!

Blown7

07-08-2008, 04:18 PM

So I'm just adding parts back on (boy is this slow) making hoses and wiring.
I installed the old Jeep cowl just to give me a reference point for hose and wire length.( The Vanco Hydroboost is hidden in the upper left by a blue rag)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08005.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08006.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08003.jpg

It still has that Wow look from the front of the engine

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08009.jpg

I have to rework the right side headers as the oil tank uses too much room.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08001.jpg

The snakes nest of dash 12 Aeroquip hose, and fittings. Just for the oil pump to tank to engine there is over $800.00 dollars worth of hose and fittings.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08004.jpg

I still have to make a nice oil filter adapter holder, this just "holds the location"

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08002.jpg

And last but not least my new Vanco powersteering pump waiting patiently for the new Bulltear Aluminum pulley (Did you get the Hint MC???)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08007.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/July8-08008.jpg

Jeff

drexotic

07-08-2008, 04:34 PM

Always makes my day when you post an update!
Can't wait for the next installment.

piratebuggy

07-09-2008, 05:02 PM

Was wondering the other day how things were going with your Jeep. Glad to see progress, realize that this is the slowest part of a build sometimes. Keep us updated!

Lifted79CJ7

10-07-2008, 05:18 PM

Hey Jeff, any new updates?
Jack

Blown7

12-15-2008, 05:21 AM

So I guess an update is in order. pretty boring stuff now, mounting the body and all not much to narrate here. It turned out to be a little taller than I wanted but then again I have 8 inches of down travel and 8 inches of uptravel all using the stock CJ 7 frame size and double triangulated 4 links front and rear. I was going to get an Aluminum body thru Bulltear but the cash is running low for now so I bought an eblay secial for now and actually I'm glad it worked out that way because of all the cutting and modifying that needs to be done to clear the shocks and wheelbase stretch I'd feel real bad messing up a brand new Aluminum body first time out. I'm trying to keep the body looking original by keeping the rear tire wheels circular as opposed to a comp cut corner because no matter what after cutting the body that way it still looks hack to me. Notice where I have to add 4 inches to the back of the nose to meet the body yes the grill is 4 inches foward of the stock mount to clear the Gilmer drive of the blower system. Also I just used the soft top bars so the S &W racecars Chromolly 10 point cage will fit inside.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody001.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody003.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody007.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody006.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/12-14-08JeepBody005.jpg

drexotic

12-15-2008, 07:37 AM

Lookin'good . . .

Did you get that beast of a motor runnin"?

Blown7

12-15-2008, 07:58 AM

Lookin'good . . .

Did you get that beast of a motor runnin"?

The last time the engine ran was in the dyno cell two years ago, it has so much support sytem (ECU, fuel pump, electric injectors etc,) that to just mickey all the wiring up to run it so far would have created a mess so now that the bodys being mocked up I can complete all the necessary wiring.

Here's the old youtube stuff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmvzACSpQVM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKDKdDhjcb4

piratebuggy

12-15-2008, 08:30 AM

Power windows too! Good to see you're still on track, keep us updated.

chrissybf86

12-15-2008, 09:10 AM

thats sweet i was thinking of pulling my built 355 chevy and putting in my built chevy 302 about 650 at the crank

Blown7

08-20-2009, 06:10 AM

More pics, bodys done and painted Black (base clear) rollcage is in and welded. Ready to install body today.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/82009body002.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/82009body003.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/82009body004.jpg

drexotic

08-20-2009, 09:18 AM

Sweet!

Keep 'em coming!

Blown7

09-09-2009, 04:22 AM

Here's a couple vids.

YouTube - 9 8 09 jeep 004 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwbA4LeT2to)

YouTube - 9 8 09 jeep 005 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Oj_XZhgU6Q)

And a pic

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/9-8-09jeep001.jpg

A few more thing need be done.

drexotic

09-09-2009, 09:02 AM

Very cool !!!

And worth the wait!

Now let's see it roll !!!!

Blown7

09-10-2009, 04:32 AM

Very cool !!!

And worth the wait!

No let's see it roll !!!!

Well it moves Ok on pavement with no front suspension. As soon as Poly Performance sends the front coils I'll be able to move faster.

BTW it weighs in at 5060 Lbs as you see it.

Blown7

10-06-2009, 11:13 AM

Well so far testing and more parts installed is going well.

To date the fastest speed on asphault that it handles well is 140 MPH and it has more in it.

Off road I haven't gone much over 80 MPH yet.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/10-6-09jeep009.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/10-6-09jeep010.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/10-6-09jeep004.jpg

piratebuggy

10-06-2009, 05:38 PM

Congrats man- I can't believe that many years went by! What an accomplishment to stick to it this long. Where did you have it running 140mph (!)

ghettotoyota

10-06-2009, 10:47 PM

I don't mean to sound like a dick or anything,and I love that motor but you're claiming to beat Chevy products? I built a motor for a buddy 4 bolt main 350 stroked to 383,punched out .40 over,with twisted wedge 23 race heads,8-71 weiand blower,1050 cfm holley carb,and a lunati voodoo cam and he's pushing 812hp and 762ft lbs and it's been on the road reliably for a year and half.I'm just trying to pick up what your throwing down.So you wanna beat chevy's with a bigger motor but are putting down less power with a bigger motor? btw this is in a street truck.I respect immense amounts that your putting this in a 4x4.

YellowRenegade

10-07-2009, 12:53 AM

Looks awesome! This has been a fun build to follow. Although now i don't feel so cool about 300 hp.:flipoff2: Looks like fun on the dunes

keep up the good work

Blown7

10-07-2009, 04:17 AM

Congrats man- I can't believe that many years went by! What an accomplishment to stick to it this long. Where did you have it running 140mph (!)

On the runway at my airport.

I don't mean to sound like a dick or anything,and I love that motor but you're claiming to beat Chevy products? I built a motor for a buddy 4 bolt main 350 stroked to 383,punched out .40 over,with twisted wedge 23 race heads,8-71 weiand blower,1050 cfm holley carb,and a lunati voodoo cam and he's pushing 812hp and 762ft lbs and it's been on the road reliably for a year and half.I'm just trying to pick up what your throwing down.So you wanna beat chevy's with a bigger motor but are putting down less power with a bigger motor? btw this is in a street truck.I respect immense amounts that your putting this in a 4x4.

Nope not claiming to beat anyone. I'm not sure what your asking? I read the engine you spec'ed out (the Chevy) and for the life of me this isn't about what a Chevy can do, it's what a AMC 401 can do. I could make more power by just changing the blower drive ratio, the camshaft and running V16 and spinning it higher, but for a 30 year old plus Cast Iron 2 bolt main block I feel I'm on the ragged edge of seeing the crankshaft and all associated hardware remove themselves from the block. Remember all this power is made under 6K RPM.

Last week we had a Jeeprally (http://jeeprally.org/) and Ian Johnson from Extreme 4X4 asked me "Why didn't I just do a Chevy engine?" I replied because anyone can, and very few can do a AMC correctly.

(BTW when I fired it up and reved it, people swore his hair blew back)

Looks awesome! This has been a fun build to follow. Although now i don't feel so cool about 300 hp.:flipoff2: Looks like fun on the dunes

keep up the good work

After all the bills are paid, the 7 years of work, and still it's not complete some days I wish I just went with what you have and been done with it years ago. I really feel this will be my last build as I am way to burn't out.