I wanna put one of these axles under my ramcharger. Im not sure if it could be done. I was wondering if i would need to shortening or lengthen my driveshaft and im guessing i need a conversion joint for it too. I know the shock mounts are different, but could i use my stock ones that are on the plates?

all im asking is, what is all needed to install this under my rc. I plan to put on the diskbrakes in the near future as this is the only thing i can afford rite now on my cash allowances from churchs chicken, lol.

so far i think i need to change is..

brake lines??
shortening/lengthen driveshaft??
i understand the perches are off some, but others seemed to just push the springs in and it bolted in rite.??
new u bolts.
shock mounts??

Im picking this up tommorow for 150 bucks. It has 4.10 gears and is open differential. This isnt going into my truck soon and this is being set up piece by piece which will eventually be buddied up with a 60 in the front.

Thanks!

-Patrick

brake lines??
shortening/lengthen driveshaft??
i understand the perches are off some, but others seemed to just push the springs in and it bolted in rite.??
new u bolts.
shock mounts??

Im picking this up tommorow for 150 bucks. It has 4.10 gears and is open differential. This isnt going into my truck soon and this is being set up piece by piece which will eventually be buddied up with a 60 in the front.

Thanks!

-Patrick

If it's not going in right away then why do it half ass?? If you can't take off the spring perches and reweld them yourself save up some money and bring it in to some off road shop that can. It's cheap, near my house a place does it for like 45 bucks. Don't ratchet strap the springs to be able to bolt like it is, that's just dumb. You don't have to shorten, lengthen driveshafts for it to work, however, you will need to have it modified to connect to the 14 bolt.

See, from what i hear, the spring perches are only off a quarter inch or less on each side. 1/2 inch total. If im constantly replacing bushes, then i think re welding the perches is def the way to go.

I know there is a bastard joint i would have to get, and are you positive about no driveline modifications on my ramcharger?

I can get a matchin 10 bolt front too..can that swap into my ramcharger? It has all new ball joints and everything so yeah..

I need a quick reply if u know cuz im gonna go pay for em tonight.

thanks in advance!

I've often thought that people that ratchet strap springs inward to get chevy axles in a dodge must not like articulation in the suspension. Let's just start out on flat ground with the suspension bound up.:shaking:

Cut off the spring perches and do it right. I've got two 14 bolts, one in the back of my 75 dodge, and one in my 90 dodge. I tried putting it in, and you really have to pull on the springs to get them in far enough. If anything the driveshaft will need to be longer, both mine worked, but the 75 would need a longer shaft if the suspension flexed more, but a pulling truck doesn't need a flexy suspension. I don't know what joint you will need. If its not going in for a while, buy a new yoke for the tcase and build a drive shaft with 1350 joints. They are much easier to come by then a conversion joint anyway.

You can use the dodge style u bolts, and the lower shock mount, no problem.

Why do you want the 10 bolt, it ain't any better then the 44 front that is in the truck right now? Besides the spring perches on it are wrong too, and you can't cut the one off thats made into the diff housing.

Michael

Michael

wow..didnt think it matter that much for just a half inch total i was told. Im on my stock suspension and dont really plan to go any higher rite now so do you think i'll be alrite or is it tottaly necessary?

so stock height suspension and little to none off roading i should be alrite with my stock driveshaft length?

So when u did this, u just reused your spring mounts and cut the 14 bolts off?

Is there a place where i can get a 1350 yoke for my 208? That and a custom driveshaft is kinda out of my budget rite now..but will be on the list as soon as money lets me afford it unless they are cheap?

Decided not to get the 10 bolt for the reasons u described. A couple hours ago i am a new owner of a 14 bolt and i am proud!

so i can reuse my old spring mounts with just new u bolts.
I should reweld the spring mounts but prolly wont
I neeed new brakes and brake and emergency lines.
and to find a conversion joint and this puppy is going in!

Thanks for the help man! i appreciate it because when i told my dad that i bought this sucker he was kinda mad saying no way it will fit!

Thanks for the help man! i appreciate it because when i told my dad that i bought this sucker he was kinda mad saying no way it will fit!

It will fit and be a good rear end. *I* would carefully cut the spring perches off the 14 bolt, and then reweld them in the proper position. I would use the dodge plate under the axle that the ubolts go through to hold the axle and mount the shock to. You *can* mount the rear end without moving the spring pads, but thats the easy/cheap/dumb way to do it. I cut the spring pads off, the mount the rear end to the springs with all the hardware, do all my measuring to insure its centered, and then I put the driveshaft in, and get the pinion angle the way I want it, then tac weld the perches to the axle. Then I pull the axle and burn the pads on right.

I would assume you can get a 1350 yoke for a 208, I'll bet you could get one off a chevy truck in a salvage yard. The driveshaft will work, its just the pinion is further back on a 14 bolt then a dana 60. So the shaft will have to be pulled further out on the splines to hook to the 14 bolt.

You can do it how you want, but I wouldn't do it without pulling the pads off.

Michael

First off man, i would like you to know i appreciate your help with this! I will go ahead and take your advice and move the spring perches when that time comes. I would have to take it to a welder to have it done.

I seen custom 1350 driveshafts go for around 350-400 hundred dollars. Thats alot for a 17 year olds budget! But i reckon thats the way to go with this.
Step by step.

Im gonna call a driveshaft shop monday and see whats up.

Hey young Buck! It's great to see you're fired up to build the Ram but I'll give you a bit of advice you should learn early on. Don't go out spending money on parts you're not %100 sure will work for you. Spend time researching not your money. Those deals in you're young age will come around and it'll give you time for the Old Pros( Me excluded,Pro that is.) on this board to help you out.

the 14bolt will bolt in.. dont worry about the springs. you are correct they are only 1/4" off each side. THERE IS NO PROBLEMS RUNNING THEM THAT WAY.. contrary to what others may THINK... my 78 has been this way since '90 and no troubles yet...

you can get aftermarket chevy u-bolts for the rear and use the chevy spring plates. (3/4ton chev u-bolts w/4" lift block if you keep the stock dodge block) this keeps the u-bolts and nuts out of the rocks. you gain alot of clearance by getting rid of the dodge shock mounts/spring plates.

cut off the chevy shock mounts and fab up your own. this can be as simple and welding a 5/8" bolt to the rear of the axle tube to mount the shock to....

reuse the stock dodge brake lines if you need to you may just have to rebend them a bit...

not sure on the driveline but youll need the rear end in the truck to get a measurement before you order one... any competent driveshaft shop can help you with what you need....


chris:cool2:

oh yea, what are you doing for wheels? are you going to stay 5-lug in the front and be 8-lug in the rear? if the front axle was a deal id do it untill i found a 60.. its a bolt in deal and again YOU DONT HAVE TO MOVE THE PEARCHES FOR IT TO WORK...


what year is your ramcharger? if its the early small bolt pattern (5 on 4 1/4" i think) then it would be a huge upgrade to have the 10bolt up there.. better wheel bearings, hubs, better brakes etc....


chris:cool2:

Its a 85 so i have th 5x5 bolt pattern. I wasnt planning on putting in the rear end untill i found a front end and if u guys are positive that the 10 bolts will bolt rite up including steering issues then i might just go back and get it!

Yeahh!! So no welding required then! I guess i'll run it as it is and dont mess with the spring perches.

I want to keep it stock height for rite now so could i just reuse my block?

No fabriacation skills so im goona just keep the stock dodge shock mounts.

Heck..only thing i gotta do to put it in is a matching front, conversion u joint and brakes!

THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Patrick

well...i did the dumb way and it works fine. went from stock d44 and 9.25 rear to a 8 lug d44 and a 9.5 14b. also did shackle flip with a chevy 52'' spring to get rid of 5'' lift block (from 2.5 superlift kit) but will need a 4 degree er so shim to correct pinion angle. if you can get a chevy transfer case yoke, it will make it easier to find a bastard u joint. and to lift the front cheap get a chevy 52'' rear and move spring mounts forward to accomidate. you will have much better articulation and ride. altogether about a 3 to 4 inch lift.

also used the dodge d44 brake lines on the chevy d44. and dodge steering arm and linkage will work on chevy d44.

link to my swap:
http://www.planet4x4.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4353

good luck!!
trev