: Moving Radiator behind the seat?


PYRO
04-24-2002, 08:57 PM
I going to relocate my radiator to the back of my Jeep and need some advice.
I figure on running hoses off the motor to hard lines that go the the rear. Then hoses from the hard lines to the radiator. What should I use for the hard lines?, just pipe or tubing? or is there something special made for this?
Is there going to be alot more stress on the water pump, pushing coolant that far?
I can't find anybody that has done this over here, so I don't have anybody's ideas to steal.

Thanks

3/4tonYJ
04-25-2002, 03:15 AM
hey wayne,
my thought is to use alluminized or alluminum exhaust tubing, but i really don't know.
my second thought is to ask this question to a the mud racers, i've seen alot of these guys move there radiator to the bed......

the frog
04-25-2002, 03:49 AM
Originally posted by PYRO
I going to relocate my radiator to the back of my Jeep and need some advice.
I figure on running hoses off the motor to hard lines that go the the rear. Then hoses from the hard lines to the radiator. What should I use for the hard lines?, just pipe or tubing? or is there something special made for this?
Is there going to be alot more stress on the water pump, pushing coolant that far?
I can't find anybody that has done this over here, so I don't have anybody's ideas to steal.

Thanks

AS YOU VERY WELL KNOW THERE IS, ON THE TOP CENTER OF THE PAGE, A FUNNY BUTTON CALLED S E A R C H .

USE IT, AS WE HAD SUCH DISCUSSION A SHORT WHILE AGO.

WHATEVER YOU DO NOT FIND, I WILL COMPLETE, SINCE I'VE DONE EXACTLY WHAT YOU PLAN ON DOING. :beer:

Rvl
04-25-2002, 05:55 AM
I used exhaust pipe because I had some sitting around. It rusts up pretty fast. I used a heavier pipe on my last truck , and I will go back to the heavier on my next truck.
I ran mine straight thru the firewall to the back. I don`t have a passenger seat , my truck is just for events.

Robert VanLane

mudtruck44
04-25-2002, 06:37 AM
I used galvanized pipe bolted to my floorboards. I also have a high flow water pump.

FatCity
04-25-2002, 08:30 AM
My first guess is Alum. tube
Why bother with rusty steel

PYRO
04-25-2002, 09:17 AM
Thanks for the positive replies, I'll check more into using aluminum tubing.
I'm already using a high flow pump so that may be fine.




-snip-AS YOU VERY WELL KNOW THERE IS, ON THE TOP CENTER OF THE PAGE, A FUNNY BUTTON CALLED S E A R C H .

USE IT, AS WE HAD SUCH DISCUSSION A SHORT WHILE AGO.

WHATEVER YOU DO NOT FIND, I WILL COMPLETE, SINCE I'VE DONE EXACTLY WHAT YOU PLAN ON DOING.-snip-

In the amount of time and effort it took you to YELL THAT CRAP, you could have just anwsered the fucking question.:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :rolleyes:

the frog
04-25-2002, 09:24 AM
Originally posted by the frog
AS YOU VERY WELL KNOW THERE IS, ON THE TOP CENTER OF THE PAGE, A FUNNY BUTTON CALLED S E A R C H .
:beer:

o.k. o.k., so you wo'nt hit the "search" button..:D :D

i'll try to sum it up for you:-

1- try to mount the radiator as close as possible to it's
original height. this way you wo'nt have ups & downs for the water to go, which is a major problem for the pump in these cases.
2- anyway, use a high volume water pump to ease the propelling of the bigger quantity.
3- if you have tube frame, you could use(like i did and i'm very happy with it) the frame tubes for the coolant to flow through.
frame tubes are strong enough and will not rust or corrode because there is no air inside(i should hope so!)
4- if not, use thick aluminum tubes but make sure they are shielded cause they are more volnerable than steel. or, use galvanized tubes.
5- make ABSOLUTELY sure ther is no air in the system, otherwise kiss your motor goodbye. it will overheat quickly and be destroyed.
6- use dual electric fans - strong ones like the ones of a cargo vehicle( i used FIAT Ducato. do'nt know how the model is called in the states). fans should be STRONG like for example in a B.M.W.
7- be sure to have a thermostat in your motor.
8- make the fans work like this - one switch operated and the other manually operated when you choose or temps unit operated(you have all kinds of start/stop temperatures for you to choose according to your radiator cooling capacity and your temps choice.
9- mount the water reservoir tank in a high place.

have i forgot anything?
if i did please let me know.

good luck :beer:

frog

Capn Insano
04-25-2002, 12:36 PM
How bout some pics you guys???:flipoff2:

Dingo
05-06-2002, 01:37 PM
PYRO, what did you end up using? I am going to have to buy some tube to do mine, was wondering how yours came out.
thanks.

jeepnmatt
05-06-2002, 02:57 PM
why hasn't anyone said Stainless pipe or tube? or Stainless exhaust tubing? its fairly common, won't rust, fairly easy to work with, tough. seems like a simple solution to me... matt

jeepito
05-06-2002, 07:35 PM
Originally posted by jeepnmatt
why hasn't anyone said Stainless pipe or tube? or Stainless exhaust tubing? its fairly common, won't rust, fairly easy to work with, tough. seems like a simple solution to me... matt

stainless will rust if water sits in it too long. if you weld stainless, you have to flood the tube with argon also to prevent rust. also must weld it with stainless rod (TIG) or can prolly get away with stainless stick (use it at work sometimes). aluminum or galvanized would be better. i personally would use aluminum, maybe sch. 20 or 40. lite weight too (if you care about that)

PYRO
05-06-2002, 10:07 PM
Originally posted by Dingo
PYRO, what did you end up using? I am going to have to buy some tube to do mine, was wondering how yours came out.
thanks.

Sorry, had to scrap that idea, not enough room in the back and the small amount of room I do have is to close to the propane tank for a hot radiator.
I only have one event per year that I need to go through the frick'n mud(Hawaii TTC, july 7) so I'll just shield the radiator for that.

Dingo
05-06-2002, 10:10 PM
I understand.....I am still trying to figure out what would be best....kind of leaning towards the aluminum, not sure what aluminum tubing costs though.....

Jayrockn7
05-06-2002, 10:19 PM
Why not use PVC pipe? no rust, cheap, and easily available. It would transfer heat well also. Just wondering.:emb:

jeepnmatt
05-07-2002, 07:05 AM
jeepito

um, i don't think so...stainless will not rust if water sits in it. what will happen is the iron in the water will attach itself to the S/S and cause rust stains on the S/S, but the S/S will not rust.

you don't have to Purge (flood) the inside of the pipe with Argon. you should, but don't have to. what will happen is the inside of the pipe will "sugar" and the sugar may rust on the surface, but the weld will not rust through.

S/S is just as easy to weld as carbon steel. you can arc, mig, and tig S/S fairly easily. the only thing different is stainless will shrink and warp more than C/S. we have seen a 100' of pipe shrink as much as 1/2" after welding.

i design, and have built, S/S commercial swimming pools, filtration equipment, moving walls, and accessories (www.natare.com). it takes a while to learn what the S/S will do when heated and bent. but, once you figure it out, its actually quite predictable.

matt

PVC pipe will not hold up to engine temps. there may be another type of plastic that will...but i'd rather use metal

jeepito
05-07-2002, 07:18 AM
Originally posted by jeepnmatt
jeepito

um, i don't think so...stainless will not rust if water sits in it. what will happen is the iron in the water will attach itself to the S/S and cause rust stains on the S/S, but the S/S will not rust.


you don't have to Purge (flood) the inside of the pipe with Argon. you should, but don't have to. what will happen is the inside of the pipe will "sugar" and the sugar may rust on the surface, but the weld will not rust through.

ok, that's what i saw then. some pipes in a water treatment plate...tons of rust stains. thought it was the pipe itself.
ok...i got bitched out once cuz i didn't purge the pipe, so i just assume do it all the time now if water is gonna be in it.
i built stainless steel guard rails, but most don't have anything to do with water, so i'm going on what i've seen (which apparently wasn't true). we're doing a big rail for the museum right now (80 ft. long) and have to leave 1/4" gaps every 12 feet for the thing to stretch and shrink as it will. crazy stuff that SS


S/S is just as easy to weld as carbon steel. you can arc, mig, and tig S/S fairly easily. the only thing different is stainless will shrink and warp more than C/S. we have seen a 100' of pipe shrink as much as 1/2" after welding.

Dustball
05-07-2002, 09:50 PM
Make sure you have a shield between the radiator and the driver/passenger! Having scalding hot coolant blowing on you is not a good thing-

blown radiator (http://users.superford.org/ylobronc/toysfortots/Brettblownradiator.jpg)

Dingo
05-07-2002, 10:41 PM
Originally posted by Dustball
[blown radiator (http://users.superford.org/ylobronc/toysfortots/Brettblownradiator.jpg) [/B]


Kewl pic Dustball....mine will be mounted in a similar fashion to the one in the pic...but in the bed of Toy ex-cab.

Just got my radiator today, so away I go and figure out exactly how to mount it.;)