Just curious cause they sort of lean out into the fenderwell area. I thought about shimming them so they were a little more vertical but figured I chance it.

I don't run the Fords, but I did relocate my lower shock mount to slightly inwards of stock - about 1" or so. I dented both shock tubes, just above the axle mount on the steering knuckle bolts/arms at full compression/flex. (nothing like hitting on 14" stroke shocks!!)

Originally posted by Tankota
Just curious cause they sort of lean out into the fenderwell area. I thought about shimming them so they were a little more vertical but figured I chance it.

Shock towers: no
Shocks: yes. :)

Running 1/4" spacers on the wheels. 33 x 12.5" No idea of
the wheel offset. Old photo, last weeks mud was RED DIRT GIRL!
(East Texas). I hate mud!

http://www.tomwalter.com/fj40/fj40_emerson.jpg

Tom :usa:

Tanks for the responses:). I have a sneaking suspicion that mine will rub. I was planning on running 1"-2" spacers on each side anyway so that may cure the problem of rubbing with my 38s.

The shocks and towers do not rub with my 38.5's
But I have 2.5" BS rims....

Mine rubbed with 38's and 3.5" backspacing. The 35's rubbed the paint off the shocks, and the inner fender. The tires also rubbed the springs at full lock. I recently changed the wheel studs and added .75 billet spacers, swapped ina set of Bobby Longs birfs and twisted the steering stops in. The shock towers just catch the mud on the lugs of the swampers, no spring contact, and slight brushing on the frame rail behind the axle.

If I would have known they were gonna rub when I was installing them, I would have modified them. But that was a couple of years ago before I had a welder.

Good info guys!:) Looks like leaning the shock mounts inwards slightly would help OR using about 1" spacers would work out just fine. I was gonna widen the frontend with spacers anyway so I probably won't redo the shock mounts.

ummmm...spacers do not relocate your knuckles, only the rim. My knuckles hit the shock body at full articulation on the compressed side. The only fix is to move the shock mount on the axle inwards about 1" or so.

No point in damaging brand new shocks your first time out, like I did....

The only fix is to move the shock mount on the axle inwards about 1" or so.
If you are running Rancho 9000's you can just flip the shock so the shaft rather than the tube is nearest the knuckle. For me it was enough to clear the arms.

I'm not worried about the bottoms of the shocks hitting the knuckles (I will check for that before I go wheeling though) cause I had to redo those lower shock mounts when i did the cut and turn on the knuckles.

If your rancho 9000's are 14" stroke like my DT3000's and you use ALL of that stroke during suspension travel, you will now dent the other endof the shock tube, closest to the shaft, and not closest to the eye.

I reversed/flipped one of mine as an experiment, and it's now dented on both ends.

And it will surprise me to no end if you can find someplace that MAXES your suspension travel in a controlled manner....RTI's don't come close on my suspension. Trail-travel and "parking lot" travel are completely different animals.