i got 2 high screw 60's im planning my mods to them... i have pretty much decided to go with trailready alluminum 17inchx10 with 5 inch back spacing....... the question is with this kind of backspacing should i just keep the axles full width? im also extending my wheelbase to 104 when the axles go in.... and will be running full hydro in the front....

so, what's the question?

INHO - axles in the 63-64" range seem to work best "all around". Not too wide, not too narrow...

But do the math yourself and see how wide you will be with several options... You may decide that narrowing the axle is not worth the hassle...

no shorten them. You will never fit if you keep them full width. trials are tight.

no shorten them. You will never fit if you keep them full width. trials are tight.

me, i'm a width junkie - full width rockwells, backspacing and
19.5"x44"x15" boggers. they do'nt come any wider(101"!!).

well i do'nt say go THAT wide, but certainly do'nt go and narrow
them. if you got hydro steering you should'nt have any problems even in the narrow trails.

besides, narrowing an axle could be quite a hassle.

just buy some hummer rims and stay with TSL's. MTR's are nice and light but now that you will be running the 60's go with a bigger tire like a 38" SX. Your 9" axles can handle 37" MTR's so why bother with the swap if your not going to use the extra beef:p

Leave em full width. If you have trouble getting through some spots, get rear steer down the line. The width will keep you nice and stable.

17x10 trailreadys huh
what tires are you going to run 37's:confused:
unless your doing comps, how come your stepping down to a smaller and less aggressive tire.(assuming mtr's,bfg's,or ssr's)
keep them full width because that bs leaves you at a good track width, not to wide, but stable

it may end up 16.5 rims but from what im hearing..... there will be plenty of bigger sizes by the time i get this done... and the 17's got a good inner bead.... ive been told on several occasions that 17 inch tires arew going to plentyfull in the near future...

What no poll?????:flipoff2:

Be a man run them full width, it will fit on whatever trail you want it to, but you are going for a more competive vehicle so running full width means no custom parts.


Craig

full width, drive up and over it
makes axles and parts much easier to find

thats what they said about 16" tires 4-5 years ago

Will it fit on your trailer you own to haul it with? Just a thought, if it didn't, more time and $$ on that, too. Full width is nice, but I agree with the statement about running the 37" tires, are you going to shave the 60's?

We were measuring my CJ7 last night vs. Ricks CJ7. Mine has waggy 20 in the rear & 44 up front & 35" MTR's they were still aired down from our last ride. Rick's has D60's F&R and 38.5 SR's (which if you look at the specs are a lot taller than the 37" MTRs). We measured from the diff down & the tire height & it became apparant, that if we ran a smaller tire with the 60's that we'd have less clearance under the pumpkins than with the HD20 & 44. But, then again, the 60's aren't shaved.

My CJ7 is at 59" and Ricks is at 62" WMS. Rick has 14.5's though. (for now)

Just my $.02 you certainly have much more experience than I do, and I think you are probably more competition minded, but take it for what it's worth.

-Mel

i am buliding mine 62" wms to mws.

leave them fullwidth and use hummer wheels. that will be like running 63" WMS-WMS if you had 4" backspaced wheels. Then if you ever want it wider you can throw in some wheel spacers. Honestly the 17" are are waste of time and money. Who cares if you have a good inner bead if you can get a hummer beadlock for less than half the price that locks both beads? This seems like the best of all worlds to me. Oh yeah, go to some beefy meats too...MT/Rs are overrated (yes i've had MT/Rs and SXs).

-Steve

Originally posted by camo
62" wms to mws.

what does that mean?

not familiar with this term..:(

wheel mounting surface

where the back of your wheel hits the hub.

Originally posted by Mel85CJ
Will it fit on your trailer you own to haul it with? Just a thought, if it didn't, more time and $$ on that, too. Full width is nice, but I agree with the statement about running the 37" tires, are you going to shave the 60's?

We were measuring my CJ7 last night vs. Ricks CJ7. Mine has waggy 20 in the rear & 44 up front & 35" MTR's they were still aired down from our last ride. Rick's has D60's F&R and 38.5 SR's (which if you look at the specs are a lot taller than the 37" MTRs). We measured from the diff down & the tire height & it became apparant, that if we ran a smaller tire with the 60's that we'd have less clearance under the pumpkins than with the HD20 & 44. But, then again, the 60's aren't shaved.

My CJ7 is at 59" and Ricks is at 62" WMS. Rick has 14.5's though. (for now)

Just my $.02 you certainly have much more experience than I do, and I think you are probably more competition minded, but take it for what it's worth.

-Mel

yes shaving is on the list..... if i run the right backspace i can keep it pretty narrow......... dont want to go too narrow as the wider tires wont fit under full turn... with the 15.5 inch wide tsl's even with a 1 1/2 spacer, my lugs were hitting the frame at full turn.... with spacers im roughly 62 (never really measured, guess i will) so im figureing i want 64 inch.... if i run 5 inch backspace on the rims, that will put me in 3 inches compared to the 3.5 backspaced rims.... so if im running full width axles 67inch? and run in three inches diff on the rim.... im at 64... does that make sense? then it will be much easier to find parts, buildup etc.....

the trailer will fit, might have to make the fenders removable for loading... :D

Originally posted by the frog


what does that mean?

not familiar with this term..:(


wheel mounting suface

Originally posted by CrazyCraig
What no poll?????:flipoff2:

Be a man run them full width, it will fit on whatever trail you want it to, but you are going for a more competive vehicle so running full width means no custom parts.


Craig

lol i can make it a poll if ya really want one :flipoff2:


why cant i run full width with custom parts? :D yeah key word more competive.... if i were goin all out i would start over.... :D

102-104" WB

65" wms-wms front
63" wms-wms rear

4-5" backspacing on 10" rims

If I could do it from scratch it's what I think would work best. Just my opinion. Keep in mind that gates are 96" so full width with 5" BS will put you ~82"

Originally posted by bigdude
102-104" WB
Keep in mind that gates are 96" so full width with 5" BS will put you ~82"

by "gates" you mean gates in competitions?

if so, i with my 101" width, cant even take part in your comps?!?!:confused:

I'm 63" front and rear.

Frog,
Yep, you are correct. WAY too wide...:beer:

Frog, according to Big rich at CalRocs the gates are 100" for modified stock and pro modified classes and 110" for open unlimited. With your vehicle you would be in open unlimited. You can compete!

Here is my .02 DO not go full width unless you go 4 wheel steer. The adedd width is a detriment if anything. I ran my full width with my 38's and my front track width was 87" I was WAY too wide for the competitions, but I did like the stability. I would narrow a little bit with regular wheels. If you are going Hummer beadlocks, I would go full width because the hummer wheels suck your tires ina bit. It is all about getting through the gates. For a wheeler that will not compete, I say full width is KEY, but for comp's I say narrow them a bit.

Dimitri

Originally posted by the frog


by "gates" you mean gates in competitions?

if so, i with my 101" width, cant even take part in your comps?!?!:confused:
The UROC comps supposedly have at least 100 inches between the gates. You *could* compete, but you wouldn't do very well. BTW, if we were voting I would vote for keeping your axles full width. Im 83 inches in the front to the very outside walls of my SX's (that's full width 60s, with 8" rims, and 4" backspacing, wrapped with 38.5x14.5 SXs), and I am very comfortable with the width. It is very stable, and I have yet to feel too wide. I find the extra width to be a big advantage in a lot of spots.

Oh yea as for the gate width, it may be 110", but those are usually set at angles. This means the gates are narrow even if they are that wide. Your 101" width will be WAY to wide. When I ran CALrocs in my 87" wide rig, I was hitting almost all the gates. With 4 wheel steer, I would have been fine however.

DImitri

by "gates" you mean gates in competitions?

if so, i with my 101" width, cant even take part in your comps

At ERocC they told us minimum gate width was 96". We had 64" wide 60's and still had trouble with 1 exit.

Now that was minimum, so some gates were about 20 ft. wide and you could pick whatever line you wanted. However, exit gates were usually tight.

We had a guy in our group with Rockwells and he looked about your width. He gave up on trying to keep points down by the second obstacle because he hit so many gates.

But for just wheeling, I'd take width (that's why I'm full width on my wheeling rig)

Full width + Hummer beadlocks = cheap narrowed effect! Don't waste your $$$ on narrowing the 60's, your going to need it for the shaving:p plus new lockers and gears:eek:

Originally posted by GhettoRig

The UROC comps supposedly have at least 100 inches between the gates. You *could* compete, but you wouldn't do very well. BTW, if we were voting I would vote for keeping your axles full width. Im 83 inches in the front to the very outside walls of my SX's (that's full width 60s, with 8" rims, and 4" backspacing, wrapped with 38.5x14.5 SXs), and I am very comfortable with the width. It is very stable, and I have yet to feel too wide. I find the extra width to be a big advantage in a lot of spots.

yeah i was figuring 82 ish with 5 inch backspace...... cant see that as too bad.........

Originally posted by badassjeepguy
the trailer will fit, might have to make the fenders removable for loading... :D

Just make new fenders out of heavy steel diamond plate and drive over them.

Originally posted by flimmy


Just make new fenders out of heavy steel diamond plate and drive over them.


yeahh thats a possibility too..... but got to get the axles built first....and decide on my width...

Hey bajg, do you know anyone with a trailer for sale ? I just drove over an hr to look at a piece of SHIOT.:mad: And I'm on a budget.

Full width + Hummer beadlocks = cheap narrowed effect! Don't waste your $$$ on narrowing the 60's

Not trying to smack a newbie for his amazing insight, but.....

Have you ever seen a hummer rim on a front 60 without spacers? The locking hub sticks out like a mofo. You'll bash it everywhere if you run rugged terrain. IMO you'd be worse off than paying to narrow them because breaking parts is a pain and when you want 60's you're trying to avoid breakage.

don't use lock-outs, use drive-flanges:D

Originally posted by Jayrockn7
don't use lock-outs, use drive-flanges:D


i doubt that ill run hummer rims.... and i dont want spacers.... so ill be getting custom backspaced beadlocks... probably around 5 inch bs


i will probably be running flanges....... buddy, wouldnt of broke if he was running them instread of hubs.... right bigdude?

buddy, wouldnt of broke if he was running them instread of hubs.... right bigdude?

No man, he broke a stubshaft. Shattered that mofo to pieces. I don't think flanges would've helped in that instance. He actually ran lock-out because he would rather grenade a lock-out than a stub-shaft. Guess he under-estimated to strength of those lock-outs :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: to the stub-shaft.

He has drive flanges and did that weekend also, we just decided to run lockouts because for tight cornering unlocking a hub could've helped.

ahhh didnt know it was the stub...... 35 spline? or 30

Originally posted by bigdude


At ERocC they told us minimum gate width was 96". We had 64" wide 60's and still had trouble with 1 exit.

Now that was minimum, so some gates were about 20 ft. wide and you could pick whatever line you wanted. However, exit gates were usually tight.

We had a guy in our group with Rockwells and he looked about your width. He gave up on trying to keep points down by the second obstacle because he hit so many gates.

But for just wheeling, I'd take width (that's why I'm full width on my wheeling rig)

Bigduge,

I apologize if one of our judges told you that the minimum was 96". The minimum of our gates is 112" wide, and only two of our gates at the competition were close to this at 113" width. Darrell and I measured all of them when setting up the course to insure this.

Which exit gate did you guys have trouble with, and I'll be sure to look at this one personally before our next event?

Thanks.

Chad "Dahc" Adams
http://www.erocc.com/

Which exit gate did you guys have trouble with, and I'll be sure to look at this one personally before our next event?


It was the exit from #7. Remember how the #7 sign was turned sideways and inside the cone. Thus we didn't actually hit the cone (missed it by 2 inches) but the top of our tire hit the sign reading #7. You guys did credit us with that later so I thank you for that. I think the gates were cool but having that sign through it made it a little tight. I emailed BAJG a pic to post so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.

BAJG- it was a 30 spline stub. He knocked the auto from 1st to 2nd at about 4000 rpm to up his wheelspeed and that stub shaft didn't like it. It shot that thing out like 10 ft sideways:D :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: . Pretty cool to see it shoot out though;) That's why we ran the last obstacle (#3) in 3wd. We didn't have enough break down time to replace the stub. Please post that pic up to so jeepinchad can see what I was talking about.

Yes, once I posted, I realized you were talking about #7 - Andy's Crack. We did credit every driver that hit cones on that obstacle points back. The reason it was an issue was due to the fact that the cones on the exit of Andy's Crack were improperly reset after someone drove over a cone, and the marker paint telling where the cone was to be placed was wiped away.

Thanks for your input... we are working on the obstacles every weekend to make them even better for June.

Chad "Dahc" Adams
www.erocc.com