Anyone on this list install one of these yet? Have any pictures of the components. From what I here it is super high quality. I am going to get one of these soon, and was wondering what peoples experiences have been when installing. More curious about the shifter, steering and radiator change than anything else. The shifter sounds like an extension. The radiator is probably a new mount. Not sure about the steering???

Way

EDIT: Here is a link.
http://rovertym.com/bodylift.htm

Way, it seems like John posted about this on DiscoWeb when it first came out. If I remember correctly, he said that there was enough slack in the steering shaft that all you had to do was loosen a few bolts and the shaft would extend out far enough so no extension was necessary. I may be wrong, but I should see John this weekend at the Safari and I'll see what I can find out. Rumor has it that he put one on his truck and is now running 35's.

Any chance you could snap a few spy photos for me? Thanks for the info. Look forward to what you find out.

Originally posted by Greg Davis

but I should see John this weekend at the Safari and I'll see what I can find out.

Greg

Find out what he did about his bumpers, once you lift the body, there's going to be a 2" gap above the bumper..........

Marty

Most guys here run a 2in body lift on the rangies. Very easy to do. There is enough slack in the steering shaft just slacken the bolts. One thing to look at is the short flexible clutch pipe that runs from the chassis to the slave you will probably have to remount the bracket on the gearbox and straighten the last steel pipe that runs to the slave. Everything else is very straight forward. Will need an extension on the transfer shifter.

The other thing, what does he make the spacers out of. The kits around here are made from steel and are not plastic. IMO they should not be made from anything soft and steel is definately the best material.

The hot mod for the rear bumper is to not use spacers on the rear most mount and cut the chassis (just cut a notch out of the top of it and down to the bottom flange, Actually I cut the bottom of the chassius and opened it up whan I bent it and then welded plates on the outside to fill in the gap. Cutting the top and closing it together is alot neater) bend the chassis back up and mount the origional rear mounts as normal then weld the chassis back together. You obviously have to remove the fuel tank to do this but it will fit back in normally no problems. This lifts the rear chassis up the 2inches on the body lifts and then you dont have to modify your rear bumper at all.

Sam

Don't know anything about the construction of body lifts. I have heard things going both ways about the material used for the "puck". Why not a softer material strange rover???

Thanks

Way

I ordered the RTE body-lift last week sometime (Mon-Tues?), I'm hoping it will be getting here soon. Once it's here I'll take some pics with my camera and put'em up here. I'm expecting it any day now...

Jon

Originally posted by Way
Don't know anything about the construction of body lifts. I have heard things going both ways about the material used for the "puck". Why not a softer material strange rover???

Thanks

Way

The Range Rover body mounts have rubber top and bottom with a steel crush tube tn the middle. When you do the body mount bolts up you do them as tight as they will go because the bolt tries only to compress the steel tube. If the pucks are steel then you still do the bolts up as tight as they will go. Also if you stop in a hurry the body wont fall forward on the mounts because they are all solid. I put a 2in body lift in years ago and the pucks were made of aluminimum and when I hit a big washout on the beach the body fell forwards on the mounts as the cruch tubes dug into the aluminum spacers and allowed the puck to rotate forward and the body moved quite a lot.

If the mount was made of something softer like plastic then you would not be able to do the mount bolts up tight at all and it wouldnt be very strong as the puck would be able to rotate.

Sam

Adam, I was at John's shop last week picking up some parts. His disco is running 35" BFG KM's with 3-4" suspension lift and the 2" body lift. He reports no rubbing, but he has done some creative cutting in the past, no major butchering though. I believe his rear axle is moved back slightly and he really likes the ride with 35's. The body lift is really not noticeable on the disco, especially compared to jeeps and pickup trucks. The front gap is hard to notice since some of the fender material and grill hang below the bumper anyway, with the body lift there is a really small gap. The rear is the same way. I asked him about the bumpers and he said for now everyone's going to have to deal with it on his own, just because there were so many bumpers out there and for now he doesn't want to try and make special brackets. I'm not really a fan of body lifts, but I was really impressed with his.

Thanks for the information guys. Any idea what construction John uses? Do you get grade 8 hardware with the kit?

Way

Adam:

I'm running a 2" lift I put on myself about two years ago.

As on the rangie, there is enough slack in the steering knuckle of a disco to handle the 2" vertical body lift. As far as the radiator went, I simply redrilled for the existing top radiator mount 2" lower and it works fine. The TCase shifter is probalby maxed out at 2" - it works as is, but the stock shift knob will sit rather low in the aperture. You still get full range of movement, but I extended mine with an aftermarket shifter handle to get a better grip. Oh, I may have used new seatbelt bolts - can't remember for sure - and of course, a new round of grade-8 hardware for the body mount points themselves.

That's it - 2" is the prime height for a body lift without having to really change anything around to support it.

/do it!

The pucks are aluminium with Lake Erie GR 8 bolts. The radiator is bolted to the frame and stays put. I make extension pins that fits over the post on each side of the radiator and and has the same pin mount to fit into the upper rad. mount bracket without re drilling the holes as there isnt the room on a disco to just lower the rad. mounts. I also do new longer seat belt tensioners that bolt the seat beats down to the frame. I dont like just slipping the steering shaft out and reclamping as you are on the very end of the steering rod. I make a welding sleeve to split and extend the steering shaft so you have the original clamping area for saftety considerations. On the first body lift we did on Drew's rangie with 35's we just slipped the shaft out further but he noticed more front wheel wobble, so extending the shaft made for a more secure clamp and no wobble. The TC shifter is just an extension and the transmission is not an issue as its all cable connections. The bumper gap isnt all that noticable and can be addressed with personal inginuity. As Al said I dont address that as it really would be a pain with all the different bumpers out there. I do like the aspect of it being an easy lift as far as susp. issues. Also 2" in my opinion is max without creating too much additional work. The madcowbettledungdude(John) took a pic this weekend of the bumper gap on my truck and will post it hopefully. I will be doing a new bumper to compensate on my truck because I am doing a slimline to mount the big warn winch anyway. Overall its an easy lift as you just need to follow the correct order of procedure. 6 hrs 2 guys.

Adam,

Having now seen John's Disco firsthand, I can tell you his body lift is top-notch, I'm really excited about putting one on my truck. The bumper gap is not bad at all, and not really all that noticable. I actually kinda like it (must be the Jeeper in me).

I have some pics of the bumper gap that I took, and I'll post'em tonight when I get home.

-Jon

The bumper gap seems to be a simple thing to alleviate. I am contemplating the 2" body lift, and it looks as if a simple stip of thin metal tacked onto my bumpers (not stock) will fill the hole nicely. In the front of Discos, there is that lip that comes down and hides about and inch below the stock bumper anyway. That helps fill some room.

Tom

Alright, as promised here are some pics of the RTE body lift on John's Disco.

Here's a side view:

http://www.roverunited.com/pics/DSC02282.JPG

And from the front:

http://www.roverunited.com/pics/DSC02283.JPG

-Jon

hey jon how about some pics of the whole truck on 35s :D

and John (RT John) the rear bumper is being installed on the range rover wednesday- will be sure to send you pics when its done. has the front bumper been shipped yet?

thanks!
adam
(son of greg check)

Ask and you shall recieve!

http://www.roverunited.com/pics/DSC02262.JPG

And here's a pics of Larry's Beast of a Rangie

http://www.roverunited.com/pics/DSC02243.JPG

Jon

what are the specs on that rangie? and where was this event?

It's Larry's Rangie(the guy who kept trying to post from his A drive). Basically its got 24 spline shafts, rear locker, 35 SSRs, rockware dropouts, and lotsa fender/door trimmin'.

The event was in Uwharrie National Forest about 1:45 north of Charlotte, NC.

Johnathan

Damn those are two nice rovers. Larry tell us about your rig!

Way

Ok I promise no picks from the A drive this time :smokin: :smokin:
My rig is defintely a work in progress, It is a 1989 County, I am running 35x 12.5 SSR with 4.10's and a detroit in the rear as well as GBR HD axels in the rear. The front is open, but has been converted to 24 spline axels it will soon have GBR Extreme Duty axels with an ARB powered by a power tank. The truck is lifted about 4.5" over all according to the ruler, with 3" Rovertym Springs and 1.5" spacers that are custom made by a plastic machine shop in Raleigh NC the fronts have been adapted to fit cross pin Shocks top and bottom , currently I am running 9005's and in the rear I have 9012's w/ rockware cones and rovertym upper and lower shocks mounts as well as rockware links held by Rancho Limiting Straps. Up front Rovertym Radius Arms, Tom Wood double cardon shaft and HD Tie Rod and Drag Link. Converted the Borg Warner Transfer Case to the LT230. Modified Safari Guard Bumper w/Husky winch and Rock Sliders. Brown Church Roof Rack. Oh did I forget trimming 3.5" out of the wheel wells to maintain CG and fit the tires. Future mods include Vented Rotors, Droop System in the rear, Dual Battery's. If any of you guys can through some suggestions my way I am completely open to all ideas I like experiments!!!!:skull: :skull: Hopefully I can pay my $20 and get one of those stars today.

Larry H
www.rovcerclubhouse.com