I'm doing a build up of my Jeep and just recently picked up a 14b to slap in. The seller also has a 10b with matching gears (5.13s), high steer arms, and Yukon Chromo shafts at a price I just can't pass up. But the problem is, I know NOTHING about this axle. From what I can gather, it's the same strength or a bit stronger than a 44 in it's stock form.
So my question is...would you guys feel comfortable running 38s or even 39.5/40s on it with out worrying every time you stepped into the pedal that something would explode? Also, are there any known weak spots or common issues?
And if it matters, I'm not running some decked out engine. It's just the stock 4.0L. So there's not an abundance of power going to the axles.

Thanks!

Think of it as a D44.... built right, it'll handle about 37s unless you are a muy suave driver.

with all the goodies that 10 is going to be stronger than a 44;
under a full size rig, I still would not trust a polished turd
however, under a Jeep with 4 liter, you should be safe
I think the 5.13's will really help you out too
that way you can feather the throtle instead of smashing it.

Not sure I would trust it with 40's
38's, yea I would probably chance it, maybe even the 39's (probably not) but the 40's will eventually eat that axle for breakfast.

You have to remember that even though you are using good shafts, you are still using a 8 1/2" ring gear, you can only transfer so much power through that.
If you build up the hubs, the u-joints, the axles, and the in put yoke, you have made the R&P the weak link.
I have broken spider gears with only 33's in a D44.

If you go with a full spool or detriot, that will help but still, there is the ring gear and the pinion gear, you are going to eventually break one or both.

Under a Jeep though, I would think that you will be safe for quite some time. The key to your particular equation is your front end dosent weight all that much, maybe 1800 pounds? I dunno. Under a 2300 pound fullsize you would blow it up, I think the Jeep will be okay. You may want to consinder a slightly smaller tire though. I think 37's/38's would be perfet for you, anything more and you are tuggen on supermans cape.

Ok, so it is a 44 in Chevy clothing.
I'm aiming for 38's but had considered the 39" Irok.
I forgot to add that it does have Superwinch hubs and there is a minispool in there.

I've been running my stock Dana30 with a locker for 6 years now. I ran 36" SX's for a year, the 36" TSLs, and most recently 38" TSLs...but it's never seen trail on the 38s...that's probably a good thing.
I've never broken anything on the axle. So I'm hoping/betting that I can make this last a while on 38's. :D

Thanks for the info!!:)

......If you go with a full spool or detriot, that will help but still.....

Not sure how that would help.... Go selectable and then you can shut it off when not needed, that'll help keep the stress loading to a minimum.

I've been running my stock Dana30 with a locker for 6 years now.

if you can run a d30 without breakage you should be ok with a built 10bolt

:D

Not sure how that would help.... Go selectable and then you can shut it off when not needed, that'll help keep the stress loading to a minimum.

I am referring the carrier
the fool spool or detriot replaces the carrier.
a selectible locker is a better suggestion though, I hadnt consindered that, I prefer to run a spooled diff, I dont have to worry if my axles are engaged or not, but a selectible locker is definatly the better way to go there.

If you have made a D30 survive with 36's, I have no doubt that you can make a built 10b survive with 38's. I still dont think I would go with anything larger though. Lot of weight in a 39" tire.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. :)
But if it does detonate in the middle of the woods...I'm gonna ask that each of you chip in to help rebuild it or swap in something better...after all, you did tell me it would be fine to run with 38s. :flipoff2:

You come wheel in Ohio any day.
Be more than willing to help you break that shinny new axle lol

Gm 10 bolt front 28 spline inner

GM dana 44 front 30 spline inner


10 bolt stronger in stock form (less severe shaft neck down, which doesn't shear as easily)

44 stronger once upgraded (obviously higher spline count)

10 bolt stronger in stock form (less severe shaft neck down, which doesn't shear as easily)

44 stronger once upgraded (obviously higher spline count)

Just because it has a higher spline count doesnt make it stronger. It has the same size shaft just a finer cut spline. Hardly an advantage when your talking 28-30 spline.

So your telling me the 30 spline 4340 shaft wouldn't be stronger then a 28 spline 4340 shaft of equal design?

Your crazy.


even if you are correct about the non splined portion of the shaft diameter (which you may be, i never looked into it) the spline diameter of the two is drastically different in size

your still gonna shear the smaller 28 spline before the larger 30 spline lets go.

And if the non splined portion of the shaft is actually the same size, that CREATES a stress point at the splines of the 10 bolt!


thats like saying a Dana 30 shaft is basically the same strength as a 44 shaft if they made the shaft past the splines as large as the 44 shafts.