I am starting to build a 52 Willy's M38. I am going to be running a 4.3/SM420/dana300 with toyota axles and 35" swamper SX's. Most of the build up pages that I have looked at for willys jeeps they either use a different frame, or build a chassis or they wish they didn't keep the original because they crack easy.
I've seen a few on modified YJ frames, but that isn't a good option for me as most YJ frames in canada ar rusted out.

I'm thinkin either a modified 66-77 bronco frame, a modified TJ frame, or a suzuki samurai frame. All of which seem to stay in very good condition around here, must be the type of steel used to build those frames.
My other option is to build a frame from scratch using 2x4x3/16" rectangular tubing. Fabricating is no problem for me as I am a liscenced welder. But it just seems like a lot of extra work that might not be nessicary.

The jeep will be wheeled fairly extreme, but I am not abusive to my equipment. My last 3 rigs have been on 42" and 44" rubber. Any tips or ideas are greatly appreciated. I want to build this one right.

Your best bet would be to build it out of 2x3x.120 wall rect. tubing. It'll be just as much work to adapt another frame to your tub, plus you'll have to sandblast it before you start.

thanksm the more I think about it the more sense it makes to build my own frame, just have to build a frame bench first.

Your best bet would be to build it out of 2x3x.120 wall rect. tubing. It'll be just as much work to adapt another frame to your tub, plus you'll have to sandblast it before you start.

I think you should use a larger rectangular tub for the build, more like 2 x 4 or 2.5 x 4 so you work easier with 2.5" leafs.

thanksm the more I think about it the more sense it makes to build my own frame, just have to build a frame bench first.

Been there, done that, and I agree: a new frame built for the job is 100 x eleventybillion times better strapping, box and nursing some old, 1/4-ton, rustifarian OE frame. Not to mention it's a helluva lot lighter and easier to work with. none of the prepwork needed for rusty metal.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=261039&stc=1&d=1156955213

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=261040&stc=1&d=1156955213

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=261041&stc=1&d=1156955213

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=261042&stc=1&d=1156955213

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=261040&stc=1&d=1156955481

that is a great idea, simple yet very tough. Great drawing also. I was worried about all the time I would be wasting cutting grinding 2 identical pieces many times over to make all the bends/curves in the chassis design.
Thanks alot.

Also a good idea to use 2.5" tubing.

X2
Geesh has a great Idea.I built the same frame design for my brothers 52 m38. Is got a 4.3/sm420/d20/d44/d60. He has starteda thread here somewhere. It worked out well.

This is the thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424008&highlight=family+flatty+stretch

Rectangular tubing is a great way to go but I think 3/16" is a bit too thick (if I read that right). .120 wall should be thick enough and will save you money and weight. What ever you end up using make sure you purchase a red star and post up some pics. Good luck.

thanks for the new sig line RUSTY.


Ohhh. check out some of stainless steel daves post's he built something similair.Though he is a DANA man, maybe someday he will see the light. LOL

BPRCJ, thanks for the link. I can never find those threads when I search!

Keep the suggestions comming.

I wheel the Fawk out of my 2x4x.120 home built framed CJ5 with no signs of any problems so I also agree that .188 is a bit too much. Front an rear bumper sections would be a great place for that though. The best part about building you own frame is that since yuor front you want to use is has 29" spring centers it is pretty easy to just build a 29" on center frame.

i'm building a '48 willys, and using a toyota frame. looks good sofar, but i'm sure liking the simplicity of the frame in the drawing. wish i'd seen this sooner.

Geesh is dead right however you can base it off of a stock frame if you want to put the work into it. Mine has about 3 feet of stock frame left, there rest is box and tube. I haven't seen any cracks...but who knows down the road.

Not for a Willys but the same basic Ideal as above (I saw it on another thread and was impressed.) I used 2x4 3/16 thick rect tubing. Cost me $$168.00 at the metal yard and I had enough for bumpers and motor mounts.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-5/1178383/DSCF00092.jpg

Sorry about the crap picture!