well the heavy arb bumper and winch sure doesn't help the front springs either...

True . . . . I hope it's not too much for the heavy duty springs also. . . .

Nice truck.
Tall, but nice.

I want 37's on my wife's '96 4Runner when it's mine, but the height thing is scary!(Cant just cut the wheel wells up...:D)

howz the gas mileage compareed to stock?

Yes, the height is definitely scary. I almost rolled it the first time out! :eek: (as seen in the pics above) . . . . Hopefully I can lower it a bit without destroying the fenders. . . . I still need to attack the pinch weld with a grinder :mad2: . . . then I'll visit Marlin and see if I can have it reinforced for me. . . . I also still need to swap the front springs. Maybe I'll be able to get away with 4" lift springs. Then hopefully I can get in my garage without scraping the roof each time. :D . . .

As for gas mileage, it definitely not what it used to be. :emb: I think I'm getting something like 14-15MPG when before I was doing 17-18MPG. . . . And power isn't quite the same either. It got a bit dogged down. :cow: But I guess that's part of the price you pay for dual crawlers, lots of armor, and a winch! :dustin:

Well I got the new heavy duty Trail Gear springs on so I thought I would have fun ramping my truck. (AJ from bentup.com was kind enough to make the ramp so I could do some flexin at home . . . )

I was looking to do three things . . .

1. Check if I need to put bumpstops to protect the steering from hitting the leaf springs or oil pan. . . .

2. See how close the tires are to rubbing so I predict what will happen if I drop the 2” body lift . . .

3. Just have fun seeing my truck flexin’ in front of my house! :D

Ok, so here it goes . . .

Flexing the front. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig2.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig3.jpg


I got about 33” from the ground to the bottom of the tire. The rear still didn’t lift yet. It would be nice to have a longer ramp to stop right when it does lift. . . . But I had the truck on a fork lift last week and I know the rear starts to lift at about 36”. . . .

I was happy to see that nothing was hitting even without bumpstops. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig7.jpg


The tie-rod and drag link are still a good 1-2” from hitting the springs. . . . And it looks like the front shock was getting close to full compression anyways. So if I were to go a little further I still don’t think anything would hit . . .

It looks like the rear springs are fully flattened in this position. But at least the shock is fully compressed before they start really reversing. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig8.jpg


As for the tires getting close to rubbing, here’s the front . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig9.jpg


It’s obvious that if I drop the body lift, then I’m gonna have to either chop at that splash guard or remove it . . . . The ARB bumper is also probably gonna have to be trimmed cuz it’s already pretty close. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig10.jpg


And now to flex the rear. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig4.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig5.jpg


Again, it looks like nothing is hitting . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/03-SAS%20and%207in%20lift%20with%20armor/Myrig11.jpg


So it seems to me at this point that bumpstops are optional because I don’t think I’m likely to hit the steering on the springs. Maybe it would be a good idea to put the little Trail Gear bumpstops back on just in case the truck comes down hard off a drop and flexes further than what I can achieve on a static ramp . . .

As for dropping the body lift, I definitely want to do it to lower the cog and gain more stability. But there’s obviously gonna have to be a lot of cutting to clear the tires. . . .

bump stops are pretty much manditory if you don't want to wreck shit if you ever bottom it out. i.e. jumping/drops from ledges. without kiss your shocks goodbye.

Bumpstops are mandatory unless you want to ruin your leaf springs. Allowing them to go flat and past flat will wear them out in a hurry. Plus it is very hard on shocks to use them as bumpstops and limiting straps.

it almost looks like you could drop to a 1" body lift and trim up inside the fender wells. doesnt even look like you will have to remove the fender flairs and cut sheetmetal.
How is the front tire frame clearance under stuff and full lock?

Ok, I'm convinced. Bumpstops are going back on . . .

Well, if go through the trouble of messing with the body lift, I would rather get rid of it completely. I already made the mistake of just changing it from 3" to 2" instead of removing it. . . . I would like to be able to drop those heavy bumpers lower as well as the cab/bed. . . .

Right now, the tires don't rub the frame at all . . . but they do get close to the firewall. The next step is gonna be to chop and plate the firewall so when the body is lowered the tires don't get caught on it . . .

Just thought I'd post some updates as I (hopefully) approach the last fine-tuning of this build . . .

1. Airbumps are getting installed at Marlin's. They'll looks something like this . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/AirbumpMounting57.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/AirbumpMounting16.jpg

(I put a bumpstop on the axle to show where the strike plate is gonna be.)


2. Firewall is getting tubbed and plated.

3. Body lift is getting dropped this weekend. It's gonna be quite a job, but I think I'll be much happier with the lower ride height, less body roll, etc . . . Here's what it's gonna take . . .

• Refab rear bumper mounts
• Refab front ARB bumper mounts
• Cut the edges of the ARB bumper to clearance the wheels
• Cut under front fenders to clearance shock hoops (if needed)
• Shorten steering shaft
• Lower t-cases
• Shorten rear drive shaft
• Refab t-case crossmember
• Adjust tranny linkage
• Refab rear shocks crossmember (it's sitting ON the frame rails so it needs to be lowered between them)
• Clear wires between body & frame (speedo sensor, brake line, brake lights, etc.)
• Notch the body for the sliders

Lastly, I'm thinking about adding a leaf in the back cuz it's kind of sagging back there. It's about 1" lower than the front. When it's loaded for the trail, the back sits almost 3" lower. . . . I currently have front 5" leaf packs that I don't need. So I'm wondering if maybe I could just pull a leaf from them and put them in the back. Is that possible? . . . And would I need a new center pin? . . . Thanks for any input.

Now you're on the right track. :cool2:
(It sure woulda been easier if you'd have have heeded our advice in the first place tho! ;) Live & learn...)

I wouldn't recommend taking any leaves out of the front pack. You've got a big, heavy rig with lots more torque than most older Toys. You need all the spring strength you can get or they won't last long.

You can add any old leaves to the back. Just cut them to fit as needed. 3" is a lot to ask for though just by adding leaves.
Another option might be to put a single center mounted air bag on top of the axle running up to the shock crossmember, kind of like the "zuk coil."
http://gearinstalls.com/scottcoil.htm
The air bag would be adjustable and used "as needed" whereas the zuk coil would not. This is something I've thought about doing to my Runner...

Erik, I think he meant he has an extra set of 5" front springs from when he switched to the 5" HD springs.

Revivalist, if that is indeed what you meant, then yes, you can use some of the leafs from those packs to add to the rear.

Thanks guys . . .

Yes, I definitely wish I took everyone's advise more seriously. At the time AJ and I were concerned that without the body lift the tires would rub like crazy. I didn't know that I would be swapping out the bumpers, trimming off the bottom of the bed, and tubbing the firewalls later. . . . If I only I had the foresight to know how we the project would end up, I would have dropped the body lift to begin with . . . Oh well, like you said, "live and learn." . . .

Yea, I should have clarified that I was talking about taking leafs from the old front spring packs that I have lying around. I wouldn't touch the HD packs I have installed now. They are doing well to support all that weight up there and to restore the shackle angle to where it should be . . . The ride is a little stiffer now, but it's "give and take" right . . .

So I was talking to AJ last night and he doesn't think a leaf from those packs will help solve the sag in the rear because something with more arch is needed. He suggested ordering up an AAL from 4wheelparts or maybe this one from wheeler's off-road (http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/9504tacoaal.htm) . . .

But I was hoping to save some money since I really doubt I could sell the old packs that I have. o I figured I might as well get what I can out of them by stripping leafs as needed. . . .

Do you think it would work? . . .

You can try it since you have them and its free. It will add spring rate more than height, but with a heavy rig and a loaded bed, that may be what you need.

AJ is right though. You need more arch to get lift and still have a similar spring rate. And I'm not sure add-a-leaves for stock springs would have enough arch either.

You can also run longer shackles and/or move the shackle hangers down to help too...

where do you get the money to pay for all this!? i wish i could splurge...

For all the stuff you carry on the trail Nathan, the AAL might be the best bet. If you were just looking to level the truck I'd say maybe a 1-1.5" block and a bit longer shackle but I think theres a chance you'll wear out those leaves if they don't get some help. Like others said, maybe try adding a leaf or 2 from the stock pack, they won't have the arch is the only problem.

Well I got the truck back from Marlin’s last night. . . . Rocky did an awesome job installing those air bumps. He welded some nice pedestals on the axle for strike plates. And he mounted the can low so I can have the airbumps engage right away or if I want I can just slide the airbump upward for more free travel. . . . . Here’s some pics. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00323.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00333.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00335.jpg


I like the little gussest on the can too . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00352.jpg


Evidently Marlin took a look under my truck and noticed that the speedo sensor was about to burn. Somehow it got routed over the exhaust heat shield. So he swapped it out for free! . . . He wouldn’t even let me pay for it. . . . . Man, he’s gotta be one of the nicest guys I know. . . . He said the speedo sensor he put in is a new part he's carrying now that uses pwm rather than the old mechanical ones. Here’s what it looks like . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00379.jpg


We’re gonna hold off on tubbing the firewall until I drop the body lift. That way we only cut what is necessary. . . .

As for the add-a-leaf, I think using a leaf out of the old front packs should work. The old pack still seems to have a nice arch. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00371.jpg


I’m thinking I’ll take out the third leaf down. . . . It’s about 19” from the center pin to the front, and 23” from the pin to the rear. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00370.jpg


Looking at the rear leaf pack on my truck, the third leaf is 21” from the center pin to the front. The leaf just below it is 18”. So if I put the add-a-leaf between those, it will end just about where my finger is . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00403.jpg


In the back, the third leaf down is 23” from the center pin to the rear. So the add-a-leaf will just end at the same place. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/DSC00398.jpg


It looks like I can still use the same U-bolts since the height of the bolts above the nuts is greater than the thickness of an extra leaf. . . . So does that seem like something that will work? . . . .

The only thing I need is a longer center pin. . . . Can I find that at a local Napa or something? . . .

Yeah napa has center pins.

Good thing you put bumpstops on. A ramp will never flex you out as much as your truck will really do. When you get on the trail things will go much further than you think.

Yeah napa has center pins.

Good thing you put bumpstops on. A ramp will never flex you out as much as your truck will really do. When you get on the trail things will go much further than you think.


true that. my truck ramps out at about 30":shaking: :shaking: but on the trail it will stuff and flex like mad.

Callen

That makes sense . . . There's lots more combinations of angles you can achieve on the trail that push the suspension to higher levels than a ramp could . . . But it's still nice to have a ramp around for some simple checks on things like tire clearance, shock travel, bumpstops, etc. . . .

I'm thinking you're going to need to add at least 2 leaves to see much difference. They are pretty thin. Looks like you have plenty of u-bolt length too.
Allen head bolts from your local Ace Hardware or whatever work well for center pins (cheaper, easier to find). Sometimes the head is slightly larger and you need to drill the perch out though.

Looks to me like you may have contact between your shock and bump stop pinch bolts when you are flexed up...

Thanks for the info . . . Ok, I'll see if maybe we can put two leafs in there . . .

We'll check the flex after dropping the body lift this weekend. I'll look to see if there does end up being a hard contact between the shock and the airbump pinch bolts. . . . Thanks for the heads-up. :)

Well, the truck is back from AJs. . . . It was a long job dropping that body lift but I think it was definitely worth it. I noticed the difference immediately. . . . The truck feels ten times more stable now. . . . I can't wait to see how it feels on the trail. . . . But there's a few things I need to finish up first: replacing the front diveline, tubbing the firewall, and doing any other cutting needed for tire clearance. . . . I'm probably gonna ramp it tomorrow to see what exactly needs to be done . . .

Already it looks like the shocks are gonna seriously rub against the airbump cans. So those will have to be adjusted. We're thinking that if they're just turned 90 degrees (with the can bolts no longer facing the shocks) that should solve it. . . AJ also recommended stronger gussets and possibly moving the cans down because the lower lip of the airbumps needs to sit against the can. If it's not already there, the truck will eventually push it there anyways. . .

As for the springs, AJ suggested waiting a while longer to see how the front springs break in. I've only been on a trail with them once, and it wasn't even a trail that required much flexing. (It was Bald mountain covered in snow.) . . . So after working the springs a bit more, then I can see if they should be swapped for lower springs or if the shocks should be switched out or not. . . . But as it stands, there's still 8" of shaft exposed while on level ground. . . .

Sounds like you're definitely on the right track.

Need new pics w/ the lower lift! I bet it looks better than ever. :grinpimp:

Sounds like you're definitely on the right track.

Need new pics w/ the lower lift! I bet it looks better than ever. :grinpimp:

Exactly, how can you post that without pictures?:D


Callen...are you stalking me:flipoff2: You knew I was thinking of your truck didn't you:grinpimp:

Ok, got some pics after dropping the body lift. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Nobodylift1b.jpg


I put it back on the ramp again to check for a few things . . . .

1. Does the firewall need to be tubbed?
2. Does the front bumper need to be cut?
3. Do the airbump cans rub the shock bodies?
4. Which bottom out first, the airbumps or the shocks?

Flexin the front . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-frontpassenger3.jpg


I was pleasantly surprised to see that it doesn’t look like I’m gonna have to tub the firewall. . . The tire is basically just rubbing on the fender flare . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-frontdriver1b.jpg


But it doesn’t look like it’s really gonna do damage to the tire so maybe I should just leave it . . .

I measured about 13” of down-travel on the shock and it didn’t seem like the springs were maxed yet. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-frontdriver8.jpg


So I’m guessing that the shock length is the limiting factor on the uptravel right now. . . It would definitely be nice to have less shaft exposed while the truck is level. . . .

It looks like the shock is definitely rubbing on the airbump can. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-frontdriver9.jpg


Rocky suggested a great solution . . . to rotate the upper shock mount tab down so that it’s mounted directly under the hoop instead of on the inside edge. . . . That will serve several purposes. . . . It’ll give the needed clearance so it won’t rub the airbump can, it’ll make the shock more vertical since it’s kind of crooked, it’ll maximize the damping performance of the shock, and it’ll shorten the shaft that’s exposed when the truck is level by about an inch. . . . I thought that’s a great idea . . . . And that way we don’t have to bother moving the can . . .

As for the rear, it looks like there’s no rubbing issues there. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-frontpassenger7.jpg


But I know that things will be different in the rear when the bed is full of gear and the swing-out tire mount is attached along with the spare tire. . . . It’s definitely gonna go lower. . . . So I really only have two choices . . . Add a leaf or bumpstop it. . . . I think adding a leaf may be better because I’d rather have the truck ride level when it’s loaded for the trail than to have it sag in the rear and have it riding on the bumpstop the whole time. . . .

When I tried to put the rear wheel on the ramp, I encountered my new limitation with approach / departure angles . . . The bumper kept tipping the ramp back . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-rear1.jpg


I guess that’s one of the disadvantages of losing the body lift. Granted, the ramp is actually a 40 degree ramp (not the usual 20 or 30 degree ramp), but I never had that problem before. So I had to come at it from an angle . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-rear6.jpg


Looking at the front again, I can see that the ARB is definitely gonna have to be trimmed . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-rear9.jpg


I also had the bolts on the airbump cans loosened so the airbumps would shift up while it's on the ramp. But I discovered that even with the cans all the way up, the airbump and the shock are still about to max at about the same time. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/04-SAS%20with%205in%20springs%20and%20no%20BL/Flex-rear12b.jpg


That seems like it’s gonna be a problem when the upper shock mount is rotated down because the shock will bottom out even earlier. . . . So I think we might need to weld some extensions on those bumpstop cans to lower the bumpstops about ½ inch . . . . I guess there's definitely still more work to be done. . . .

truck looks 10x better with the body lift gone.:smokin:

Exactly, how can you post that without pictures?:D


Callen...are you stalking me:flipoff2: You knew I was thinking of your truck didn't you:grinpimp:


yeah, my truck really sucks on a ramp because i dont have a lot of droop, but it has gobs of uptravel, so when it gets all crossed up it really flexes hard.

truck looks a lot better, now go wheel it, break it and make it even better.

Callen

i agree, it looks a lot nicer without that lift gone. oh ya, thats 13" of droop you got, not up! :smokin:

i agree, it looks a lot nicer without that lift gone. oh ya, thats 13" of droop you got, not up! :smokin:Thanks. Fixed that. . .

Yes, I can't wait to go wheel it! . . . I just need to take care of those issues I mentioned and wait for an open weekend . . . Hopefully in 2-3 weeks. . . . I really wish some of the other trails were open around here besides Bald Mountain, like the Dusy or Swamp Lake. . . . I need a trail that'll push this thing!

Truck's looking great, but I'd be concerned more about the fenders in front. I think you're right that the tire will be fine, but I'm not so sure about your fender/fender flares. You might look into pulling one off to see if there is any room between the flare and the actual sheetmetal. I think on the trail you're gonna either a) rip the flare off or b) rip the flare off and wrinkle some sheetmetal.

Just some constructive criticism. :)

Ary

Thanks for the input, Ary.

Yeah, you're probably right. . . . I would certainly prefer choice a.) over choice b.) :) . . . . I was just hoping I might be able to get away with the minor rub because the fender flare is smooth and the bumpstop should keep the tire from going any further up . . . But then again, I forgot about going in reverse. I think that's where it'll pull that flare right off . . . Hmmm, maybe I can just remount the flare so that the bottom is attached closer to the door. . .

BTW, are the airbumps charged? I've never had my hands on one, but I was under the impression that it was pretty hard to get them that compressed without some serious jumping. I don't know what the OD of the bumps are, but you might find a commonly available piece of DOM that's a slip fit to act as a spacer, just cut to length as needed.

Ary

Thanks. Fixed that. . .

Yes, I can't wait to go wheel it! . . . I just need to take care of those issues I mentioned and wait for an open weekend . . . Hopefully in 2-3 weeks. . . . I really wish some of the other trails were open around here besides Bald Mountain, like the Dusy or Swamp Lake. . . . I need a trail that'll push this thing!

I think i'd be less concerned with pushing the limits of your truck right now...I'd be more concerned with pushing the limits of the driver. Get some seat time, then go tackle dusy and the rubi.

Quote That seems like it’s gonna be a problem when the upper shock mount is rotated down because the shock will bottom out even earlier. . . . So I think we might need to weld some extensions on those bumpstop cans to lower the bumpstops about ½ inch . . . . I guess there's definitely still more work to be done. . .

I don't think you need to move the air can stops. If you look at you air can mounts it looks like you can adjust the height of the can itself. Try loosening the two nuts on the can mount and sliding the can to the spot you need it to be at. I bet that will fix some of your problems.

Next I would definitely do some work on the fenders. Right now you are in a nice controlled situation but when on the trail you are going to drop of a ledge and everything is going to compress a ton more than on the ramp. Your springs will flop and remember your air cans are charged so with the right amount of pressure they too will give some and you will bottom out hard.

Here is what I would do, adjust your air stops first. Drive the truck for a while on and off road, break in those springs. Once they are broken in run another ramp test. Take all your measurements and add about an inch to them ie if your tire is touching your fender now then in the real world you will have hit the fender and possibly torn of your fender flare or worse. Don't forget the forward or backwards forces that your tires and axle will see. When climbing a wall at an angle your tires are being stuffed into the back of your wheel wells.

I hope this all makes sense, just believe me when I tell you that what you see on the ramp is only a little of what you would see on the trail. Don't ask how I know LOL there may be some torn up tires and fenders in my past.

Experience is your best tool!

I don't think you need to move the air can stops. If you look at you air can mounts it looks like you can adjust the height of the can itself. Try loosening the two nuts on the can mount and sliding the can to the spot you need it to be at. I bet that will fix some of your problems.

He wants to move the airbump cans or put a spacer in them to keep them from sliding up in the cans (even with the bolts tight) when it bottoms hard.


Revivalist: Your truck is looking great for a trail runner! On a side note, I have those same wheels on my 4runner and I kept having problems with the lug nuts coming loose after hard wheelin. Dont really know why. Just thought i'd give ya a heads up. I had to wind up using blue loctite and torquing the lugnuts.

Great info guys! Thank you very much. . . .

BTW, are the airbumps charged? I've never had my hands on one, but I was under the impression that it was pretty hard to get them that compressed without some serious jumping. I don't know what the OD of the bumps are, but you might find a commonly available piece of DOM that's a slip fit to act as a spacer, just cut to length as needed.

AryYes, the airbumps are charged with nitrogen which supplies about 1.1lb/in per PSI. They have a 4in stroke and can be charged from 50-500 PSI. Right now they are at the stock factory setting of 200PSI which means that in order to push them the full 4in, you have to supply about 880lbs to each of them. . . . I'm glad that they are able to compress while I flex the truck because I don't want them to limit my uptravel while rock crawling. But hopefully they still have enough force (when coupled with the shocks and leaf springs) to absorb any hard drop on the trail. I try to use the crawler as much as possible to limit that but of course it still may happen. . . . I'm gonna watch the o-ring on each shaft and see if they ever get near the top. If they do, I'll have to add more nitrogen as needed. . . .

I hope I can find some tubing to use as a spacer like you mentioned. I figure if I have to, I can always get another set of cans and cut pieces out of them. But it was $30 for the set. . . .

I think i'd be less concerned with pushing the limits of your truck right now...I'd be more concerned with pushing the limits of the driver. Get some seat time, then go tackle dusy and the rubi.You're absolutely right. . . . I'm pretty sure the driver is far more of the limiting factor than the rig is in this case. . . . Unfortunately seat time is a rare commodity for a guy with a full time job, a wife, a new baby, and ministry. . . . Hopefully I'll be able to get up to the hills at least every month or two though. . . .

I don't think you need to move the air can stops. If you look at you air can mounts it looks like you can adjust the height of the can itself. Try loosening the two nuts on the can mount and sliding the can to the spot you need it to be at. I bet that will fix some of your problems.

Next I would definitely do some work on the fenders. Right now you are in a nice controlled situation but when on the trail you are going to drop of a ledge and everything is going to compress a ton more than on the ramp. Your springs will flop and remember your air cans are charged so with the right amount of pressure they too will give some and you will bottom out hard.

Here is what I would do, adjust your air stops first. Drive the truck for a while on and off road, break in those springs. Once they are broken in run another ramp test. Take all your measurements and add about an inch to them ie if your tire is touching your fender now then in the real world you will have hit the fender and possibly torn of your fender flare or worse. Don't forget the forward or backwards forces that your tires and axle will see. When climbing a wall at an angle your tires are being stuffed into the back of your wheel wells.

I hope this all makes sense, just believe me when I tell you that what you see on the ramp is only a little of what you would see on the trail. Don't ask how I know LOL there may be some torn up tires and fenders in my past.

Experience is your best tool!Yes, you're right about the difference between the ramp and the trail. . . . I probably shouldn’t rely on what I see with the ramp so much and just use it as a mild example of what the truck will have to go through . . .

I would definitely like to lower the airbumps or put some sleeves on. I don't want to have to deal with the airbumps slipping back up if the truck comes down hard and the clamping force of the bolts on the can isn't strong enough to hold the airbump in place. . . . I figure that's why there's a lip on the airbump to keep it from going higher. The bolts are probably there just to keep the airbump from slipping down while it's suspended. . .

I'm not sure what to do about the fender flares. . . I'm hoping that maybe I can either trim them or trim the fender underneath them and then mount them higher. (I kind of like them so I'm hoping I don't have to ditch them altogether.) . . .

That's a good point about the axles being pushed forward or back. I guess I better keep at least an inch clearance between the tire and both sides of the wheel wells. . . .

Revivalist: Your truck is looking great for a trail runner! On a side note, I have those same wheels on my 4runner and I kept having problems with the lug nuts coming loose after hard wheelin. Dont really know why. Just thought i'd give ya a heads up. I had to wind up using blue loctite and torquing the lugnuts.Thanks for the heads up about the wheels. I haven’t noticed that problem of them loosening up. But I’ll be looking for it now. . . .

all i see so far is a really nice cowboy caddillac, when is that thing actually going to see a dirt road? or maybe even a rock? i cant wait to see the pic of that thing on its roof cause his wallets bigger than his skill. your trucks dope but id probably start small on the trail. dont get me wrong, i have small skill but also a matching wallet. and i just wanted to hate a little cause im super jealous. if your in socal id love to come along and see its maiden voyage, anyways sweet rig.

all i see so far is a really nice cowboy caddillac, when is that thing actually going to see a dirt road? or maybe even a rock? i cant wait to see the pic of that thing on its roof cause his wallets bigger than his skill. your trucks dope but id probably start small on the trail. dont get me wrong, i have small skill but also a matching wallet. and i just wanted to hate a little cause im super jealous. if your in socal id love to come along and see its maiden voyage, anyways sweet rig.
you are a retard. fully read a thread before you reply. if you had bothered readin the post above yours, the seat time and newb driver issue were already addressed. :shaking:

drink bleach and quit bein a jealous asshole.

why dont you read the end of my thread when i say that i was only saying that cause i was jealous of his rig and that i would like to go see it in action, all you friggin flamers just sit around and look for ways to bash people. i was just havin a little fun with the guy and gave him props at the end. so just chill.

why dont you read the end of my thread when i say that i was only saying that cause i was jealous of his rig and that i would like to go see it in action, all you friggin flamers just sit around and look for ways to bash people. i was just havin a little fun with the guy and gave him props at the end. so just chill.
you newbs sure know how to back pedle fast. if you had read the whole thread you woulda knowed he already took it wheelin. but nope, yer too stoopid for that. case in point, this post.

Yup. I haven't had a chance to take a lot of new pics. But since I last posted we installed an ARB bumper up front with a Warn M8000 winch, hawse fairlead, and synthetic rope. . . .

For the rear Aj custom fabbed a wrap around bumper with rear panel tubes, a hitch, spare tire mount, and D-ring loops. . . . In addition we put a swaybar with quick disconnects, dropped the body lift to 2", and clearanced the front wheelwells a bit. . . .

I finally got a chance to take her wheelin! . . . Here's a pic in my drive way all packed up and ready to roll! . . .
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald_Mountain/BaldMountain1b.jpg
The trail ride went well. I took video clips that I'll piece together and post later. . . . There was only really bad spot where I took a wrong line and leaned her over too close for comfort! . . .
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald_Mountain/BaldMountain4.jpg
We tethered up the front to a tree with the winch and a buddy I met on the trail hooked a tow strap and winch line to the rear of the rock slider. . . .
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald_Mountain/BaldMountain6b.jpg
It turned out fine as I eased off driver's side rocks and tigtened the winch . . .
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald_Mountain/BaldMountain7b.jpg
We made it to the look-out tower at the top but it was already gettin later so the pics came out dark. . .
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald_Mountain/BaldMountain16.jpg
I got some good video clips that I'll piece together post up later. . . .

yeah the pics are gone, but it's already been on its "maiden voyage".

wanna backpedle some more?

why dont you read the end of my thread when i say that i was only saying that cause i was jealous of his rig and that i would like to go see it in action, all you friggin flamers just sit around and look for ways to bash people. i was just havin a little fun with the guy and gave him props at the end. so just chill.

When your being sarcastic use ":flipoff2: " ok.

your right, i was just skimming this extremely long thread and his last post implied that he hadnt taken it out yet, so i assumed he hadnt. so you got me, now you feel real big and tuff on this site but for the record, i wasnt talking to you in the first place i was just havin a little fun with a guy that just completed his dream rig, so butt the f*ck out next time.:flipoff2:

Let's keep the peace, my friends. :smokin:

I fixed the links for those photos in the post that RedNeckRea was talking about. You can see them here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6192650&postcount=242). . . . I also made a little video of the trip here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrpqxDhzUHQ . . .

To see all of my off-roading pics, click here (http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/). I've been wheelin this rig since it was a stock 2WD PreRunner. It's been kind of cool testing it's ability step by step as I built it. . . .

I'm still a newb at wheelin, but we all gotta start somewhere, right? I just figured I would build my rig right the first time and then let experience come with time. I wish I could go wheelin more often but time is my limiting factor . . .

Take a good look at your right front brake hose in the one compressed photo. It looks like it is getting almost kinked where it comes off the backing plate hose bracket. It would suck to loose that on the trail.

Thank you for the observation. . . . Any suggestion on what would be a better way to route that hose?

Well we had a great time yesterday up on Bald Mountain. At first it came down a little hard. I didn’t really wanna get out in the blizzard to air down but there was no choice once we got stuck in a deep mud hole . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/06-Bald%20Mountain%202-07/BaldMountain1b.jpg


We still had to use the winch to get out of that mud hole. . . Other than that the weather cleared up and it was pretty easy wheelin. . . . Only had a few tough spots . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/06-Bald%20Mountain%202-07/BaldMountain12b.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/06-Bald%20Mountain%202-07/BaldMountain17b-1.jpg

Edit: one of your pics isn't working

Looks like a good time, glad to see you out enjoying the rig!

Thanks . . .

Pic should be fixed now.

Looks good, a bunch of us are going to Bald Mountain this weekend!

Ah man! I wish I could join you. . . . The lady gets a little irritated if I take off two weekends in a row. Plus we're probably gonna be doing our whole valentine's thing this weekend. . . . But have fun on your trip . . .

I think I'm gonna be heading back up there March 3. If anyone wants to go , let me know. . . .

Could someone please move this thread over to the Tacoma section? . . . Thanks.

NO, leave it here. :flipoff2:

Nearly all the tech and advice in this thread is applicable to all Toy Trucks/4Runners. Don't move it or dilute it in a separate forum "just for Tacoma's."

any recent updates on how the truck is doing?

Hey guys . . . I'm trying to figure out what to do for a rear trac bar. So I figured I'd just bring up my old thread in case anyone wants to offer a suggestion based on my application (see the first post for current rig) . . .

Here's a few choices I was thinking about. Please post up if you have any experience or comments on these. Thanks!

1. Budbuilt: $425
www.budbuilt.com/new/traction_bars.html

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/BudBuilt_traction_bar_1s.jpg


2. Blue Devil Products: $285 (+ $115 or $195 for crossmember)
www.bluedevilproducts.com/Standard%20Products/Traction%20Control/Traction%20Control,%20L3%20Selections.htm

http://www.bluedevilproducts.com/Standard%20Products/Traction%20Control/Graphics/photo29476/BDP%20-%20360%20Shackle%20Link%20DAWB.JPG


3. Custom built trac-bar by Rocky at Marlin Crawler: (~$500)
This would probably be the best quality with the best parts, but of course that wouldn't be as cheap as the choices above.

nice build
I think all 3 of those are pretty pricey
why not just build your own, there are a ton of working home brew designs on here
you will probably save $200-$400 if you do

The budbuilt version is being sold by a member on the Marlin forum for $285.00 brand new. (recent listing)

1) Good if you think your truck is generic enough that it will bolt-in. It may cost as much or more than #3 though after shipping.

2) Still requires you to do some of your own work. If you can do that, you can probably build the whole thing yourself for less.

3) Best bet since it will be custom built for your rig.

Great points, Erik. Thanks. . . .

So I think I'll let Rocky build it for me. He does great work. . . .

So I'm just trying to get an idea about the details. For example, should I go with hiems or good ol bushings? . . .

I like bushings myself. Spreading them out as far as possible at the axle end (8-10") will give the axle less leverage against them and make them last longer. And be sure to use a bushing sleeve inside that you can tighten the bolt against or the bolt will wallow out the holes in the bracket and make noise. Jeep YJ bushing kits are very commonly available, cheap, and standard tubing sizes will fit them. That's what I plan on using for my traction bar (T100) and 4-link (4runner).

Hey, Revivalist!

I just stumbled onto this thread while researching solid axle conversions on 2001-04 Tacoma DCs. I like how your truck is turning out, and would like to be able to view all your photos of the work in-progress.

Unfortunately, it seems many on your photos are showing up with broken links to your photobucket album. Is there any place online where I can view your photos that have been taken during the buildup process???

Also, I couldn't find any contact information for you on this list. If you wouldn't mind sending me your email address, I'm sure I'll have a few questions to ask you off-list. Plus, I may ask to stop by and see your truck sometime when I'm up in your area visiting my Brother in Madera Ranchos. You can contact me off-list at sbennett18@charter.net

Thanks,

Steve

Hey Nathan,
For your application, I agree that an off the shelf part would still end up costing you a bit to modify it to fit your setup. Rocky does good work and will build it to your specific application.

On mine, I'm running bushings @ the axle, a slip tube towards the top and a Heim @ the frame. Works great and so far has proven stout. I haven't seen one of Rocky's yet but most guys run the shackle setup @ the frame.

Hey guys . . . Sorry I didnt' see your posts sooner. I didn't check this thread for a while. . .

@ SteveB - Yeah, I reorganized my Photobucket folders so that messed up the link to all my build-up pics. But you can still see them here (http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/). Unfortunately they're just not conveniently matched with the narrative in this thread anymore.

You are more than welcome to contact me with questions. I'll send you a pm with my e-mail address. You're also welcome to stop by and see the truck and get any ideas that may help you. If you're gonna be nearby, just e-mail me and I can give you directions.



@ freds40 - Hey bro! . . . Thanks for the ideas. I think I'm gonna be doing something similar to that. I agree that putting it in Rocky's hands is my best bet. He already has the parts and I think it's going to come out very similar to yours. We'll be putting bushings on the axle end and a heim at the frame end as well. And, yes, we'll be putting a shackle at the frame. . . . I think we'll be working on that this weekend. . .


By the way, after snapping a rear axle a few months ago, I decided to change my rear shafts to chromolies. . . . Does anyone have any experience with these from Poly Performance? . . .

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=149


http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/files/t_776.jpg


They're Tacoma axles so this might be a case where having my thread in the Tacoma section would have helped. I might post over there also if I don't hear much here.

I'm running Poly axles in my Taco rear. I've never heard anything bad about them and AFAIK, they are the only option for chromo Taco width shafts anyway. I never broke a stock one, but I was afraid it would happen sooner or later and I wouldn't have had a spare. Now I shouldn't need one...

Awesome! Thanks for the input . . .

As far as being the only option, aren't these shafts from All Pro also an option?

http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=71


http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/stories/axle_chromoly_s.jpg


They're $120 cheaper too . . . The only reason I didn't order them is because they aren't going to be in stock for another 7-8 weeks. Marlin Crawler also said they could get them but it would be about the same (if not longer) wait time.

By the way, I was initially considering doing a full-float conversion with the Front Range kit. Is that something worth doing? . . .

Right now I don't think I can justify the extra cost just to get disc brakes and convenient removal of rear axle shafts. . . . I was attracted to the idea at first because I figured that if I blew the rear R&P, I could remove the shafts and keep going in FWD (something you can't do with semi-float) . . . But then I heard that it's also possible to just pull the ring gear and leave the carrier with the axles in place and still keep going . . . So I don't really see much advantage in full-float anymore. . . .Especially since it will run about $1200-$1600!

Any comments?

I don't think anyone else was offering Taco shafts at the time, but its good to see there are some other options coming out. If Marlin would have had Alloy USA shafts available, I'd probably have gone with those since they're cheaper and that's what I'm running up front in my 44. I'm glad I have the Poly shafts, but they are a bit pricey. I like what I've read about Poly's shafts having the thick section for bend resistance near the flange and the taper for twist/breakage resistance. PIG seems to know what he's doing with his axle designs. Hopefully its a "get what you pay for" kind of thing.

I was going to have Inchworm build me a FF kit using D44 outers instead of Toy, but I kind of lost interest. I'm just not sure its worth the extra cost and complexity (so that applies to my thoughts on the FROR kit too). Kind of along the lines of the KISS principle I guess.

Ok, I think I'll order up a pair of Poly shafts today. Hopefully with a trac bar and the chromoly shafts I won't have to worry about breakage on the rear end again (at least not for a long time) . . .

I think my next project is going to be an exo-cage. Rocky (over at Marlin's) said he would be happy to help me with that. We want to make one that can be removed with some bolts. I've been toying with some ideas and here's what I have so far. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Exocage/Exo-cagewithboltlocations.jpg


The yellow dots would be bolt locations. The yellow bar down the middle is still in question. It seems like we could get it in there and still have the rear door open most of the way. (Or I could just unbolt it if I'm going to have passengers back there.)

For the roof, I was working off of this rig as a good example . . .

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/aetnacreekbed030b.jpg



Any comments/suggestion are welcomed. :)

I simply do not see the point.You still have 4 big doors that will get beat up if you wheel it. It may help some, but not fool proof.

I simply do not see the point.You still have 4 big doors that will get beat up if you wheel it. It may help some, but not fool proof.True . . . Someone suggested I do something like put a swing out guard on the rear door.

Even worse IMO. I just do not think you can make an xo look good on that much sheetmetal.

If you are thinkin of an exo don't bolt it. The first time you smack a rock or a tree or flop it the cage will never bolt up the same. Leave it the way it is. After the first major ding you won't care anymore.

If you are thinkin of an exo don't bolt it. The first time you smack a rock or a tree or flop it the cage will never bolt up the same. Leave it the way it is. After the first major ding you won't care anymore.Yeah, that's true . . . I guess trying to keep'er pretty is kind of a losing battle. . . . But I do want it to be safe for family/friends. . . .

I was thinking about how to minimize the number of bolts but I found that it's kind of hard since any connection at a bumper or rock slider would need to be bolted. . . .

By the way, John, are you the guy I joined for breakfast and wheelin on Bald Mtn. last snow season?

IMO, forget the EXO, maybe put some fender bars on it for a little sheet metal protection. You might as well build a buggy with all of the tubing you are going to buy. Just my opinion however.

Well, I finally got around to getting the traction bar done . . . . Rocky (from Marlin Crawler) did a great job building it for me. . . . Very beefy tubing, a shackle at the front, and a huge heim joint . . . Here’s some pics . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar3.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar4.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar6.jpg


The rear bracket is nice and close to the 3rd member to avoid limiting articulation . (However, I hear that the heim only allows about 15 degrees of rotation each way. I have yet to check how it flexes now.)


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar5.jpg


The profile shot shows that the shackle ended up a little lower than the driveline at the front, but I think that’s ok since it can help protect the driveline if I get high-centered . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar8.jpg


Rocky put some extra tubing from the frame to the stock cross-member supporting the shackle. It didn’t seem worth cutting out that whole stock cross member and making a totally new one. I think this solution should hold up fine . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/Tractionbar12.jpg

Just an FYI, that's not a heim, it's a Johnny joint style joint.

I just had some of these rear chromoly axle shafts installed at Marlin Carwler today.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm#rear

http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/axles_rear_alloy_500.jpg

Currently they only have the older style chromoly shafts (for 1995-2000). However, Rocky came up with an idea to install a spacer for the seal to sit against. Here’s the spacer and seal prepped for the housing. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Chromoly%20rear%20axles/Rearchromolyaxles4.jpg


They sent my old stock axles to Alloy so they can eventually start production on the later model (2001-2004) chromoly shafts.

While we were out there, we also had some fun testing out the new traction bar with a few burn-outs. I was impressed by how solid it kept the pinion in place. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/th_Burn-outvideoedited.jpg (http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/?action=view&current=Burn-outvideoedited.flv)

Well I discovered that my rear housing is starting to give in. . . . The axle tubes are starting to buckle where the spring perches are mounted. Here’s a few pics.. . . .


Passenger side

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/06-02-08_1130.jpg


Driver side

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/06-02-08_1131.jpg


My guess is that this the result of repeated axle wrap before I recently installed the traction bar. I figure that when axle wrap occurs, the spring perches are basically being rotated into the housing tubes. So after a while the tubes became fatigued at the location where the perches sit and eventually the tubes started bending in there. I’m glad I discovered this in the shop and not on the trail where the tubes could have eventually collapsed completely and damaged the axle shafts. . . .

Trail Gear is in the process of developing an axle housing that can take a Toyota e-locker 3rd member.. Matt offered me the chance to run a prototype of their rear housing that’s setup for a Tacoma. Here's their Rock Assault axle housing has already been released for the Toyota pickup.


http://www.trail-gear.com/images/rah3-600.jpg


For the Tacoma they just lengthened the tubes and modified the face plate to accept an e-locker differential. (Basically the difference is that the e-locker housing requires a rectangular notch in the passenger side of the face plate and re-locating a few of the stud holes. This article from 4x4wire (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/) describes the modification in detail.) Here's a glance at the modifications that need to be done.


http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/new_housing_topB.jpg


Here’s a pic of the housing being installed. (Pics were taken with my phone camera so they’re not the greatest quality. I’ll get some better ones later.) . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/06-02-08_1157.jpg



I anticipate this new housing will hold up much better to off-road abuse than my old stock housing did. The tubes should be considerably stronger with ¼” thick DOM and as well as the ½” thick mounting surface for the diff and the chromoly outer flanges. I’m also looking forward to the extra clearance provided from the offset tubes that are 3/8” higher and the flat-shaped center section that's supposed to provide at least 3/4" more clearance. Sometimes it’s only the matter of a little extra clearance to help a lot in a situation like this . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/BrewerLake10b.jpg


The diff is also going to have to be shaved so it doesn’t hang lower than the axle housing. Here’s a pic looking from the back of the truck toward the front. You can see the lip that needs to be shaved off boxed in red.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/06-02-08_1154b.jpg


I will definitely opt for the extra inspection cap in the top which allows for quickly inspecting the ring gear if I ever run into trouble on the trail. That sure beats what I had to do before with was disconnect the brake lines, disconnect the e-brake, remove the wheels, unbolt the axles, drop the rear driveline, drain the gear oil, and unbolt the 3rd member all just to check the ring and pinion. Plus of course having to re-assemble everything, bleed the brakes, and refill the differential with gear oil to get going again. Now I can just pop off the inspection cap and take a quick look. I like that.

In the process of tearing down my rear axle, it was found that I had a bad wheel bearing and my ring gear had a tooth broken off. I’m not sure how/when that happened, but again I’m glad this was discovered in the shop. So it looks like I’ll need to have some new gears set up back there as well. I was debating getting the new gears cryoed but I'm not hearing a lot of positive feedback abou that process. I think I won't bother.

I was happy to find out that the chromoly shafts I got from Marlin Crawler fit nicely in the housing. However, the traction bar that was just built is going to have to be modified or rebuilt. This is where I need some advice . . . .

1. What thickness tubing should I go with for maximum strength? The tubing I have now I believe is .2 wall DOM. Is it worth starting from scratch to change to .25 wall?

2. What design should I go with for best articulation? Should I leave the shackle design I have or consider going with a slip design that has two tubes that slip inside each other like this?


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar/bar3.jpg


3. On the axle side should I run johnny joints, heim joints, or bushings? Currently I had bushings but I'm hearing that this could potentially cause some binding with full articulation.

4. On the axle side, how thick should the mount be? Should I go 1/4" like the axle tubes? What about this bracket from Trail Gear?

http://www.trail-gear.com/images/tg2006-5512-225.jpg


Right now I’m thinking that my best bet is to use the bracket from Trail Gear, leave the shackle up on the frame, keep the tubing I have, and just change the axle side so that it runs on jonny-joints rather than the bushings I had there. Any opinions?

i would just make a mount for the traction bar you have.

here what i understand of the gear treating process that bobby does, but your best bet is to call him and talk with him. the treatment makes the gear slightly softer allowing it to take shock loading better but you make a trade off with wear durability. i would suggest it for the front but not the rear. the miles a buggy sees in comparison to a street rear is far less making the longevity not as important.

"Right now I’m thinking that my best bet is to use the bracket from Trail Gear, leave the shackle up on the frame, keep the tubing I have, and just change the axle side so that it runs on jonny-joints rather than the bushings I had there. Any opinions?"

Thats what I would do if I were you. Seems you have a good setup right now with the exception of the bushings at the axle end. Changes those to Johnny Joints and you should be good to go.

i would just make a mount for the traction bar you have.

here what i understand of the gear treating process that bobby does, but your best bet is to call him and talk with him. the treatment makes the gear slightly softer allowing it to take shock loading better but you make a trade off with wear durability. i would suggest it for the front but not the rear. the miles a buggy sees in comparison to a street rear is far less making the longevity not as important.That makes a lot of sense. Ok, so I'll skip the cryo treatment for the rear.

Thats what I would do if I were you. Seems you have a good setup right now with the exception of the bushings at the axle end. Changes those to Johnny Joints and you should be good to go.So you mean the .25 DOM for the tubes isn't that critical then? Maybe I should just run it and if it holds up on the trail, great, if it ends up getting bent in, then next time I'll go thicker on the tubing. . .

If you HEAT TREAT then CRYO TREAT the gears, it will make them softer and more prone to wear. If you just have them cryo treated without heat treating, you will have a really hard gearset. Trust me, I've been running cryo treated Superior 4.88's in my truck (DD even) for 2 years.

Edit: AND before I had it done, I called Bobby and discussed it with him, cryo treat only!

Revivalist, Didn't several people tell you your rear axle was going to give with your setup?

If you HEAT TREAT then CRYO TREAT the gears, it will make them softer and more prone to wear. If you just have them cryo treated without heat treating, you will have a really hard gearset. Trust me, I've been running cryo treated Superior 4.88's in my truck (DD even) for 2 years.

Edit: AND before I had it done, I called Bobby and discussed it with him, cryo treat only!I decided not to bother with the cryo treatment. I figure if I'm breaking ring gears back there regularly, then I probably just need to step to something bigger. . . .
Revivalist, Didn't several people tell you your rear axle was going to give with your setup?Yes, people did warn me about the rear axle with 40s. I knew an upgrade would be needed. I'm just glad I was able to do it before a major failure on the trail. I figure that if the stronger housing, chromoly shafts, traction bar, and solid pinion spacer aren't enough, then I'll step up later. For now, this is definitely the cheapest solution. . . .

Progress continues on the rear build. The axle housing is under the truck with the 3rd member pulled and the axle shafts bolted in just to be able to move the truck around. . . The springs perches, shocks mounts, and parking brake brackets have all been welded on. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/16-Housinginstalled1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/17-Housinginstalled2.jpg


The brake line T needs to be tacked to the housing. The Tacoma has a L-shaped “T” that I don’t like because it doesn’t keep the brake lines along the axle housing. I’m gonna get from the dealer an actual T like the old pick-ups have which should work better to keep the line on the axle. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/26-BrakeT2.jpg


I don’t like how the hard brake lines come out of the drum assembly so low. (This is a result of rotating the drums 90 degrees which I did to bring the e-brake up high.)


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/27-Brakelines1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/29-Brakelines3.jpg


So I came up with an idea to get those brake lines up higher. I found some banjo fittings that fit my wheel cylinders. Then I ran a bolt fitting up through the banjo fitting so that I’ll basically have an elbow at the drum assembly. Setting it up that way will bring the hard brake line immediately up along the drums and then I can bend them over the spring packs. That should help prevent the line from getting snagged by a rock. I’ll take pics later with the fittings in there.

I also found I have a little kink up by the BPV. I think I might bend that bracket (or cut a hole on the bottom side) to aim the brake line fitting directly down toward the axle.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/30-Brakelines4.jpg


Looking closer, you can see how low the shafts run inside the tubes. With the 3rd member in there, they’ll be about 1/8” above the bottom of the tube. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/23-Housinginstalled8.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/24-Housinginstalled9.jpg


The bottom of the 3rd member was marked for shaving. Here’s a pic that shows how much will be taken off.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/14-Diffshaving2.jpg


The hole at the bottom is actually a dowel hole, not a stud hole. So there's nothing to worry about with that. The funny thing is that the stock housing doesn’t even have a dowel there. You can see what I mean from this pic of the stock housing. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/01-Stockhousing1.jpg


I spoke to the guys at Trail Gear about whether it’s safe to take that much off the 3rd and evidently it’s very common practice to remove about ¾” from a Toyota 3rd housing to gain clearance. After reading from the whole section about it on Pirate (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4022732&highlight=shaved#post4022732) I know I’m not doing anything that hasn’t already been done by many people before me. . . .

Here’s some pics of the broken ring gear . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/33-Brokenringandpinion1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/34-Brokenringandpinion2.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/35-Brokenringandpinion3.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/36-Brokenringandpinion4.jpg


It looks like the tooth broke off below the wear mark. So we don’t think it was from a faulty setup. Somehow a load on the gear (maybe while going in reverse) must have snapped the piece off. Or perhaps it was a result of a bad pinion angle under load before I had the traction bar installed. . . . Whatever it was, new gears will be installed this weekend.

As for the traction bar, it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to salvage what I had. The distance between the eyes on the current traction bar is 3”.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/06-Oldtractionbar.jpg


The distance between the eyes on the Trail Gear bracket is 8”.


http://www.trail-gear.com/images/tg2006-5512-400.jpg


I know that the larger the separation the better for anti-wrap, so I would rather run a traction bar with the 8” separation. I also want to run Johnny joints at the axle for so the bar has to be setup for that as well. I’m also going to change the design from a shackle at the frame to a Johnny joint attached directly to the frame and then run a slip joint that will allow unlimited articulation as well as droop or compression. I’m think that design will work best for avoiding any kind of binding or limitation of the flex/articulation.


So here’s a summary of what’s left to be done:
• Cut the inspection hole, weld in the bung, put the inspection cap, and mount a breather
• Setup new gears and shave the diff
• Install the stud eliminator kit, mount the 3rd, and fill with oil
• Setup the new traction bar.
• Setup the brake lines with banjo fittings and a true “T” welded to the housing, bleed brakes
• Paint everything nice and purty!

In the first pic why is it not welded on the bottom of the tube under the axle shaft?

In the first pic why is it not welded on the bottom of the tube under the axle shaft?I'm not sure what you're referring to. Can you quote the picture?

diamond in the front,

cubic zirconium in the back!

:flipoff2::grinpimp::D

I'm not sure what you're referring to. Can you quote the picture?

I believe he's referring to this area:

yea that was the spot I was referring to. I read the thread on the axle so got all the info I need.

diamond in the front,

cubic zirconium in the back!

:flipoff2::grinpimp::D

x2 :flipoff2: why not just another diamond

I believe he's referring to this area:Here's what Trail Gear says about it: "The internal gusset is in place to strengthen the connection between the center section and the housing tubes. The gusset performs this function as is. Gussets do not need to be solid to perform their job. The housing sealing is accomplished by a different set of welds that connect the shell to the tubes." (link (http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=22370#post22370))
x2 :flipoff2: why not just another diamondThe Trail Gear housing is half the price. Plus, they're local for me and Matt asked if I would be willing to run their housing as a sort of prototype for the Tacoma e-locker diff.

The Trail Gear housing is half the price. Plus, they're local for me and Matt asked if I would be willing to run their housing as a sort of prototype for the Tacoma e-locker diff.
There is a reason for this.

Whats the reason then?

Whats the reason then?
I am not stiring the pot, I do not own any TG parts.

I am about to buy a Toyota 4runner and I use TG at my shop alot. I am getting board of Jeeps. I was wondering because I am new to the Toyota arena and would like to learn. I am about to get one of their rear axles and didn't want to make a mistake. I am also wanting to use their front axle when it comes out. Anyhow wasn't stiring it either, trying to learn.

XJFETISH, I just PMed you, the mods do not like to see threads turn into questions/flame wars about Trail Gear, which is why you're not getting a response from Bones.

Sorry guys. I'll stay away from talking about TG stuff. Anyhow nice truck, mine will grow up to be like yours one day.

If you HEAT TREAT bla bla bla

Hey, U going to AZROCKS this year since you missed last year?

Hey, U going to AZROCKS this year since you missed last year?

I am not. My last semester in school so I have to focus :D

can we get your opinion on this housing? From the few pictures it seems to look pretty good.

Im not trying to stir the pot, Im only interested as Ive got a buddy considering this axle housing.

The axle and the new traction bar are completed. Here’s some pics of the axle . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/40-Finishedhousinginstalled4.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/41-Finishedhousinginstalled5.jpg


Here’s some pictures of the clearance under the differential. Looking from the back of the truck toward the front . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/42-Shaveddiff1.jpg


Looking from the front of the truck toward the back . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Rear%20axle%20housing/45-Shaveddiff4.jpg


Here’s some pictures of the traction bar. This time the bracket was made from ¼” and the tubes are made of .25 wall DOM. There are also Johnny joints at the axle as well . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar%20-%20new/Tractionbar1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar%20-%20new/Tractionbar2.jpg


The Johnny joint was mounted to the stock cross member with an additional gusset to the frame.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar%20-%20new/Tractionbar10.jpg


The drive line hangs a little lower than the traction bar, so it won't help much as far as protecting the driveline, but at least it won't hinder clearance and it's much less likely to ever get bent. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Traction%20bar%20-%20new/Tractionbar12.jpg


I haven't personally seen it flexed out with the new traction bar and axle but the guys at Trail Gear did it to make sure there’s no binding. I’m looking forward to seeing how the new setup performs on the trail. . . .

I think its time to go beat on it.

I think its time to go beat on it.

X2

The traction bar looks awefully close to the exhaust on the compression stroke it may hit. That is one sweet ride you got.

I thought I would resurrect my old build thread. (I was out of commission for a while with a broken pelvic from a bad car accident. But I'm doing much better now.)

I'm planning to join a trip this August through the Dusy-Ershim. Last time I took some carnage to the door. So I just ordered up a set of these doors for front and rear from 4xInnovations. The rear doors are going to come in pieces so I can modify them as needed to get them to fit. They'll look something like this. . . .


http://4xinnovations.com/images/gaurding/tacomatubedoor2.jpg


http://4xinnovations.com/images/gaurding/TD05kb.jpg


I was hoping to be able to make some progress on an exo this summer as well. . . . I'm still thinking about something like this for starters. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Exocage/Exo-cagejustrear.jpg

I thought I would resurrect my old build thread. (I was out of commission for a while with a broken pelvic from a bad car accident. But I'm doing much better now.)

I'm planning to join a trip this August through the Dusy-Ershim. Last time I took some carnage to the door. So I just ordered up a set of these doors for front and rear. The rear doors are going to come in pieces so I can modify them as needed to get them to fit. They'll look something like this. . . .


http://4xinnovations.com/images/gaurding/tacomatubedoor2.jpg


http://4xinnovations.com/images/gaurding/TD05kb.jpg


I was hoping to be able to make some progress on an exo this summer as well. . . . I'm still thinking about something like this for starters. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Exocage/Exo-cagejustrear.jpg

that is the tamest trail out there, a 4 door civic won't get body damage, you will be fine:p

that is the tamest trail out there, a 4 door civic won't get body damage, you will be fine:p

how would u know?? you put the web in web wheeler!!!! i bet you have to reupholster your computer chair every 6 months or so!!!:flipoff2::laughing::flipoff2:

how would u know?? you put the web in web wheeler!!!! i bet you have to reupholster your computer chair every 6 months or so!!!:flipoff2::laughing::flipoff2:

my chair is a tougher ride:flipoff2:

everyone has told me, and many trail reports
it's been described as a very long annoying bad road:p

my chair is a tougher ride:flipoff2:

everyone has told me, and many trail reports
it's been described as a very long annoying bad road:p


when are you and pat gonna start wheeling again? we had some good trips back in the day(bassi falls/rubicon in the snow 2001, rubicon backwards in 2002, your orange jeep pumkin mobile a few years ago when you ditched vova and i at spider):flipoff2::grinpimp:

no excuses, youve got an awesome rig now!!!

hijack off...sorry revivaler

revivalist, whats your frame height at the stock tranny crossmember area with the 39.5'' iroks??

when are you and pat gonna start wheeling again? we had some good trips back in the day(bassi falls/rubicon in the snow 2001, rubicon backwards in 2002, your orange jeep pumkin mobile a few years ago when you ditched vova and i at spider):flipoff2::grinpimp:

no excuses, youve got an awesome rig now!!!

hijack off...sorry revivaler

a few more mods to protect it and doubler, Pat's building another 4 runner:D

Wow, broken pelvis, thats rough. Seems like that kinda ties all the rest of the skeletal structure together. Glad to hear you're doing ok.

Wow, broken pelvis, thats rough. Seems like that kinda ties all the rest of the skeletal structure together. Glad to hear you're doing ok.Yup, fractured in three places. It sure wasn't fun but I'm mostly recovered now. Thanks for the best wishes.

revivalist, whats your frame height at the stock tranny crossmember area with the 39.5'' iroks??About 29.5" . . . I know that sucks but I only have about 4" of up-travel so I can't go any lower. Also, the airbumps in the front are positioned to bottom out just before the drag link hits the front leaf springs so I can't change that either. . .

Tomorrow someone is bringing to my house a set of those front tube doors. I also ordered a second set that will be sent in pieces so that I can modify them to fit the rear doors. I'm excited to see how they turn out :D . . .

By the way, I realize that the Dusy isn't as hard as some of the other trails out there, but last year it sent me home with some souvenirs. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/12-Dusy%20Ershim%208-07/Dusy-Ershim8-0782.jpg


I figure the new tubes doors will help to minimize the unnecessary carnage.

I got the front tube doors on today. I'm really like them so far. I went for a test drive on dirt slopes and they rattled a little bit but that's ok. . . . I haven't tried mounting the stock doors back on with the quick-release hinges. I heard that's the hard part. . . .

I'm going to work on the rear doors later this month. Adam at 4xInnovations is going to send the bent tubes and hardware because he doesn't have ready-to-go doors for the rear of the double-cab. It'll require some tinkering and welding them up but hopefully it won't be too difficult. . . . I'm hoping by mid-August the exo will also be underway. . .

Ok, so here's some pics so far . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/tubedoors2.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/tubedoors4.jpg


The doors are pretty flush with the body. I thought these were the ones with the 1.75" kick out, but now I'm not so sure. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/tubedoors7.jpg

By the way, I realize that the Dusy isn't as hard as some of the other trails out there, but last year it sent me home with some souvenirs. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/12-Dusy%20Ershim%208-07/Dusy-Ershim8-0782.jpg


I figure the new tubes doors will help to minimize the unnecessary carnage.


Wow!! That's some serious carnage! I would'nt recomend you run that trail again as it may lead to a more serious outcome (carnage wise)on your ....Rig..:flipoff2:

Run more trail man! As much as you can! You've been told this before, but I'm about sick of seeing the mods you've done without seeing the rig on the trails and how said mods are working for you!! I understand your injury, and I'm happy to see you've recovered... Now, please go beat on it (I mean realy beat on it) and report back with your findings. ie what failed, how you floundered because you're new etc....
Thank you

The mods to the ARB bumer are VERY nice...

how will you get the doors back on when a rock relocates the center door jam:eek: at least with doors on you just get door damage, but the doors still hang correctly and can be replaced.
I think front tube doors are OK. rear door will still support the jam

Wow!! That's some serious carnage! I would'nt recomend you run that trail again as it may lead to a more serious outcome (carnage wise)on your ....Rig..:flipoff2:

Run more trail man! As much as you can! You've been told this before, but I'm about sick of seeing the mods you've done without seeing the rig on the trails and how said mods are working for you!! I understand your injury, and I'm happy to see you've recovered... Now, please go beat on it (I mean realy beat on it) and report back with your findings. ie what failed, how you floundered because you're new etc....
Thank youOk, I so it's not exactly massive damage. :D . . . But since the rig still sees the street, it's nice to have a set of tube doors for wheelin and a clean set of doors for the street. . . .

Believe me, I wish I could get on the trail more often. . . . In the meantime, it's still fun to work on the rig until the next opportunity to wheel.

The mods to the ARB bumer are VERY nice...Thanks. I couldn't even clear 37s before doing that, let alone 40s.

how will you get the doors back on when a rock relocates the center door jam:eek: at least with doors on you just get door damage, but the doors still hang correctly and can be replaced.
I think front tube doors are OK. rear door will still support the jamGood point. I guess there's always going to be pros and cons to any mod . . .

I'm trying to get some ideas about mounting mirrors and speakers on the new tubes doors. For mirrors, I’m thinking about going with these . . . .

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1645/AC857815/

http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/2/379/AC857815.jpg


They seem to be the cheapest bar-mounted mirrors I can find for 1.5” tubing. The only thing I don’t like about them is that they don’t fold in. Of course, I could just take them off before hitting the trail but I like having a mirror on the passenger side so I can see my rear-passenger tire and bed on tight turns. . . . Anyone know of a better solution? . . .

For speakers, I think I may need to mount a plate on the bottom front of the tube door to mount the speakers. I saw these doors from Schaffer Offroad . . . .

http://www.shaffersoffroad.com/shop/images/pirate%20board%20001.jpg


http://www.shaffersoffroad.com/shop/images/tubedoor1.jpg


I’m trying to see if I can get a set of just those plates that cover the hinges. Perhaps I could work off of them for speaker mounts . . . Anyone have other ideas? Thanks.

tawl boy is a vendor for waterproof speakers that might fair better in the elements with tube doors?

id be a bit nervous as seabass described in taking out the B pillar with no doors and really screwing yourself come winter when you cant get a door to fit back on or seal up??
a friend i used to wheel with originally owned the 4runner you have posted above, the tube doors were really nice!

I have those same mirrors and tube doors. The mirrors are too small and just plain suck. I would go with a bigger mirror. A lot of Rhinos use mirrors that bolt to 1.5 inch tubing. I would try those. As far as you screwing up the B pillar. You are going to have to flop it to do that. Just my 2 cents.

Tim

id be a bit nervous as seabass described in taking out the B pillar with no doors and really screwing yourself come winter when you cant get a door to fit back on or seal up??


I agree 100% !! I 'wheeled with tube doors for about a year... Untill I caved the whole cab in to where I could'nt get doors on any more at all.. Then i just had to cut the whole cab off and start over :grinpimp:

Anyone have other ideas? Thanks.





Kick panels! They sound great, and work really well when you have no 'doors' per se http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=182850&i=044K400363&tp=130

Edit: They're a bit pricey, and say they're for a Runner, but they'll fit and well worth the price IMO.

@ Booger Weldz - I think I would rather take the risk with the pillars. I'm tired of putting pesky dents and scratches in perfectly good doors. At least this way I can keep a set of doors clean for the street. Plus, if I damage a B pillar, can't it be repaired?

@ Buddha - Thanks for the heads up on the mirrors. I almost ordered them yesterday before I read your post. I'm gonna look around for a local place that has Rhinos or sand buggy parts in general. At least if I find the part locally, I can try it and return it if I don't like it.

@ briansc33 - Thanks for the link for the kick panel speaker enclosures. That seems like a very convenient solution. They’re definitely expensive at $170. But I figure with the time and hassle to modify the tube doors with plates and speaker housings it may end up being almost the same anyways. Plus these will look cleaner and be hidden away so it won’t obstruct my view through the door. I could also splice the wires into the harness so they stay on all the time and I don’t have to plug and unplug them when I swap doors. Nice solution.

A few days ago I started noticing that my driver side airbump is getting crooked. It’s becoming flared out, versus pointing straight down. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Framebentbyairbumpcan2.jpg


Upon further inspection, we noticed that the weld on the bracket is tearing a little bit. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Framebentbyairbumpcan3.jpg


We also noticed that at the top the bracket is starting to push into the frame. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Framebentbyairbumpcan4.jpg


So I guess I need to cut off those brackets, plate the frame, and then mount the cans back on. Should I bother trying to bend that piece of the frame back out or just weld the plate over it?

torch it off, grind the frame down smooth, plate the frame, then have it re mounted with a heck of a lot more weld surface, material and possibly material thickness...a bumpstop takes a hell of a hit when it has to do its job...who did that? pretty weak!

looks like alot of leverage hanging off that frame. if you have to do it like that again then you need to gusset it back to the frame

Good ideas . . . There probably should have been a big gusset from the can to the underside of the frame. I'll suggest that when it's being fixed.

Well, I think the problem with the frame bending has been taken care of. We welded up a 3/16” plate to reinforce the frame. The plate actually wraps under the frame as well. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/ReinforcementPlate.jpg


The air bumps were reattached with a ¼” thick gusset supporting the can off of the reinforcement plate. I don’t think I’ll be seeing anymore problems with this setup. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Newbracketwitgusset1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Newbracketwitgusset2.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Frame%20dented%20by%20airbump%20can/Newbracketwitgusset3.jpg

This thread has been a huge help with my research...

This thread has been a huge help with my research...Glad to hear that!

I just installed an onboard air system with two Viair 480c compressors and two 9 gallon tanks. First we cut and shortened the brackets on the tanks so we could get the tanks tucked up nice and high under the bed. Here's a pic comparing a tank before being modified and one that was cut. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair1.jpg


Here they are installed . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair3.jpg



http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair4.jpg


I also mounted the compressors under the bed as well near the bumper. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair2.jpg


I used some reinforcement plates above the bed to help support the weight of the tanks and the compressors . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair8.jpg


Here’s the pressure and gauge and switch mounted right in front of the shifter . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair5.jpg


Here are the results of some tests using the new system. . . .

First I aired down to 7 PSI which is usually the lowest I need to go on the trail. Then I hit the switch on the compressors to start airing up the tanks. I found that it took about 13.5 minutes to get the tanks from 0 PSI to 150 PSI. So when I’m wheelin I’ll probably just hit the switch when I know I’m 10-20 minutes from the end of the trail . . .

While waiting for the tanks to fill up, I connected my spare tire to the driving tires use something called the 4air (from 4crawler.com) which is basically just a bunch of hoses with Schrader Valves connect to a T. Here’s a pic of it in use . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Onboard%20Air%20System/Onboardair6.jpg


This lets me take the air from the spare tire (which was at 45 PSI) and dump some of it into the driving tires so I can air them up faster. Doing that brought the pressure from 7PSI to 11 PSI on all four tires. Not a bad boost . . . .

After that, I connected the 4air to the air tanks and this took all four tires from 11 PSI to 25 PSI in about 3 minutes. I was impressed considering these are 40” tires! . . . The compressors came on again and took about 12 minutes to restore the tanks to 150 PSI. Dumping that into the tires again took all four tires to 37 PSI. All done and ready to hit the road. . .

So the nice thing about this system is that I’ll only have to stop to air up twice. Once I reach the end of the trail I can take all my tires from 7 PSI to 25 PSI. That’s enough to start driving on the road if I want, Then after about 12 minutes I can get out again and take tires all the way back up to 35PSI. I would say I’m very happy with the setup.

webuilt sent me this link if that setup doesnt end up working out for you...

http://pnwfab.com/YorkOBAmount.htm

i wish someone would buy it so i could copy the brackets, hint, hint:D:D

how many miles on the IROKS? how are they wearing with the street miles? io love those tires, but they really seem to wear out fast on the road

Thanks for the offer, but do you think one york could outperform two Viair 480s? . . .

I think I have about 5,000 miles on the Iroks. They seem to be wearing well, even on the street. They may not last as long as some others (like MT/Rs) but they're half the price and the strong sidewall of the bias ply keeps the tire nice and tall for clearance even when aired down.

Thanks for the offer, but do you think one york could outperform two Viair 480s? . . .
I think I have about 5,000 miles on the Iroks. I think they're wearing fine, even on the street. They may not last as long as some others (like MT/Rs) but they're half the price and the strong sidewall of the bias ply keep the tire nice and tall for clearance even when aired down.
.

easily
viar 1.18cfm @100psi x 2 less then 3cfm
york 8cfm @ 100psi
york nearly 3x :):eek:

Damn, you run those tires all the way to 37psi? Does that seem a bit high to anyone else?

I run mine at 25psi max. Course mine are bias though.

Why dont you just let the compressor run while the tires are airing up? I have one viar 460 with no tank and it fills the 37s from 4psi to 25 psi in about 15 mins. I made a 4way air line as well so thats all 4 at once.

Damn, you run those tires all the way to 37psi? Does that seem a bit high to anyone else?No, I run them at 35 PSI. I assumed that's normal street driving pressure.

I run mine at 25psi max. Course mine are bias though.Mine are bias ply also. Should I be running at 25PSI? That would be nice, I would only have to dump the tanks into the tires once.

Why dont you just let the compressor run while the tires are airing up? I have one viar 460 with no tank and it fills the 37s from 4psi to 25 psi in about 15 mins. I made a 4way air line as well so thats all 4 at once.I do let the compressors run while the tires are airing up. But I find that after 2-3 minutes the tanks are pretty much dumped into the tires and the pressure in the tanks drops from 150PSI to about 50PSI. Then it's mainly the compressors pushing straight into the tires. It seems easier to get back in, drive for 10-15 minutes until the tanks are full, and then get out and dump the tanks into the tires again.

You really don't need 35 psi. I usually run my 38s up to 25 and that might even be too much. You need to determine what your contact patch looks like and adjust accordingly. Rub some chalk across the tread and drive it a little and see where the chalk has rubbed off. Let air out until it's wearing it off evenly across the whole tread. If it starts to wear it out only on the outer edges, put some more air back in.

Run whatever pressure you like. The "correct" method of determing pressure is to make sure the tire is wearing evenly across the tread pattern - use chalk or something on the tire to determine that. But as long as you're not exceeding the max pressure, you should be fine. Personally, I like a little be higher pressure (33-35) on the street. Loose sidewalls just exasserbate loose "everything else." :D

webuilt sent me this link if that setup doesnt end up working out for you...

http://pnwfab.com/YorkOBAmount.htm

i wish someone would buy it so i could copy the brackets, hint, hint:D:D


That is a great price for that kit. The setup I built wasn't any cheaper (parts only, mainly because of the custom pulley) and it took a bunch of time too. I would buy that before building another one.

I've been running a York for about 7 years now and I love it. I've never run a tank and it airs up 4 37's in about 10 minutes with the engine at idle. On many occasions I've aired up 8-12 tires at the end of of a trail. I run the ARB's off it too.

Alright, I finally figured out the speaker and mirror issues with the tube doors. . . .

I went with the custom kick panel enclosures for the speakers. It turned out to be a very clean solution without having to modify the doors and possibly obstruct the view through the doors. . . .

Driver's Side . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/Tubedoorskickpanelspeakers15.jpg


Passenger Side . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/Tubedoorskickpanelspeakers19.jpg


For mirrors, I went with the Lange Mirror II which is meant for a CJ or TJ jeep. With bracket welded on each door, the mirrors bolted right up. They're perfect because they can be rotated into the vehicle for tight spots and they can be easily removed. I replaced the set screws with some thumb screws so they can be taken out quickly if needed. I also like that the mirror is big for a nice field of view and they come in black. . . .


Driver's Side . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/Tubedoorsmirrors28.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/Tubedoorsmirrors22.jpg


Passenger Side . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/Tubedoorsmirrors27.jpg

do those speakers get in the way of your left foot and the dead pedal? I have a set of those for an 89-95 pickup retro-fitted in my 89 4Runner (previous owner did it), and while I like them, I miss the access to the dead pedal.

whered you get the speaker panels?? i neeed a set!

do those speakers get in the way of your left foot and the dead pedal? I have a set of those for an 89-95 pickup retro-fitted in my 89 4Runner (previous owner did it), and while I like them, I miss the access to the dead pedal.It's true I used to sometimes put my foot on the "dead pedal" but having the new speakers there doesn't bother me. I definitely prefer having it this way and being able to have tunes while on the trail. :D
whered you get the speaker panels?? i neeed a set!Crutchfield

[COLOR="Lime"]Crutchfield

found them, thanks!

found them, thanks!

DAMN those are expensive! :eek:

DAMN those are expensive! :eek:I know. It's ridiculous.

Well its been over 6mo. hows the TG housing holding up? I assume fine I havent seen anything about another Diamond housing in this thread

diamond in the front,

cubic zirconium in the back!

:flipoff2::grinpimp::D

Yup, it's holding up great. Last month I was out on the Dusy Ershim for five days wheelin on it . . .

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8658956&highlight=#post8658956

Well im assuming you didnt make it to the Marlin Crawler Round up at the rubicon last weekend considering I never saw your rig... Youll have to come up to the con sometime, Id like to see this truck. Its pretty much what I wish I had instead of mine.

I really wanted to make it and Big Mike was really helping me to try to think of ways but it didn't work out. . . . . I'm hoping to make it to the next one.

I was just really glad that I was able to run the whole Dusy-Ershim this year. That satisfied my itch for wheelin for a while. :D

what ever hapened to this guy?

He stopped by the shop a couple of weeks ago to pick up some spring bushings for it.

He stopped by the shop a couple of weeks ago to pick up some spring bushings for it.

hey! what have YOU been up to???

Hocking parts and talking trucks. Getting paid for it now. :D

Hocking parts and talking trucks. Getting paid for it now. :D

what??? no more construction foreman??

Nope. Finished that stuff a year and change back. Riding a comfy office chair behind a computer and phone working for Marlin these days. :smokin:

Sorry for the hi-jack Nathan

Nope. Finished that stuff a year and change back. Riding a comfy office chair behind a computer and phone working for Marlin these days. :smokin:

thats awesome brendan, cant imagine the $$ is what it used to be though??!!...yes hijack offf...sorry:D

Where did you get that rear bumper? That thing is sweet, like all the mod's you've done,I plane on doing a sas soon have the axle (BJ60 front) just need some more part's.

any new pics????

Where did you get that rear bumper? That thing is sweet, like all the mod's you've done,I plane on doing a sas soon have the axle (BJ60 front) just need some more part's.

If I remember correctly the rear bumper was built by AJ at Bentup who is currently not in business anymore.

This thread rocks. The guy has never even engaged a t-case, and he's on his way to competition axles. Gotta love it. I bet it gets sold in the first year, though. :shaking:

Nope! He didn't sell it and he is still rocking this truck which turned out very nice. Never under estimate people and their intentions.

Any updates on this project?

sweet rig man