** MOST RECENT PICS OF THE RIG ** (http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/01-Truck%20pics/07-Current%20setup/)


** This thread has been edited to show "before" and "after" pics . . .

Well, I decided to overhaul my 2003 Tacoma PreRunner and turn it into a rig that can perform a little better off-road. Here’s the plan in a nutshell:

IFS --> Solid axle (with front e-locker)
2WD --> 4WD
No T-case --> Dual T-cases
4.11 gears in back --> 5.29 gears front and back
Stock height --> 5” spring lift
Stock wheels --> 37” MT/Rs
No armor --> Sliders, bumpers, and a winch!

Here’s some pics of the stock rig I picked up in June 06. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/01-Truck%20pics/01-Stock%20truck/02-ToyotaTacoma3.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/01-Truck%20pics/01-Stock%20truck/05-ToyotaTacoma6.jpg


And here's some pics of the rig in July 08 . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/01-Truck%20pics/07-Current%20setup/03-Driveway15.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/Tube%20doors/tubedoors2.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/12-Dusy%20Ershim%208-07/Dusy-Ershim8-0773.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/12-Dusy%20Ershim%208-07/Dusy-Ershim8-0774.jpg


As for the rest of the story on how this happened, . . . here it goes . . .

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So I’ve done lots and lots of research to figure out what the best options are. So far, here are the parts I already have . . .

1. Custom IFS Eliminator Kit

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SASParts2.jpg

It’s “custom” because some of the components were removed that won’t work with my 03 Tacoma since the whole kit is made for a 79-85 Pickup or 4Runner. The parts I got are the following:

• 5" Springs – Front
• Front Spring Hanger
• Shackles Front Offset 5"
• Steering Stabilizer Kit
• Shock Hoops, 14"
• Bilstein 5125 14" Shocks
• Bumpstop Extensions
• Bumpstops
• Motor Mount Plates

2. Rear Lift Kit

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SASParts1.jpg

• 5" Springs – Rear
• Welded Spring Hangers
• Rear Shackle Mounts
• Shackles Rear Wide 5"
• Bilstein 5125 12" Shocks
• Lower Shock Mounts
• U-bolt Flip Kit Rear
• Brake Line, Individual Rear F-M
• Three Hole Spring Perches
• Greasable Spring Bolts & Bushings

------------------------------------------------

Ok, so here are the parts that I know I still need to obtain:

-- For 4WD Conversion --
• 4x4 Transmission
• Stock T-case
• Second T-case
• T-case mount
• Dual transfer case crossmember
• Floor shift plate
• 4WD shifter boots (exterior and interior)
• Interior plastics
• Speed sensor (if 4WD transmission doesn’t come with one)

-- For SAS --
• Front Axle (FJ80)
• Hub assembly (if it doesn’t come with axle) (new or junkyard)
• New brakes and caliper (if the ones on axle can’t be used)
• Studs for wheel mount
• 5.29 gears (front and back)
• E-Locker
• Rear drive shaft
• Front drive shaft (brand new, lengthened 10” spline, balanced): $260 (Bentup.com)
• 37” mud terrain tires (that fit 16x8 rims)


I’ll be doing getting the work done this weekend with AJ from bentup.com. We already found an FJ80 full assembly, however the seller wanted $1100 for it. Is that a reasonable price? . . . . Also, we still need to figure out what we need to do for steering drag links on it.

Thanks for any tips or suggestions from anyone! :)

Lots of pics, please. I'm very curious to see how that 29" on center spring width works out on the shackle end...

Wow that takes balls... Gonna be a great project though. Keep the pics coming. ;)

damn...thats all i got to say..but keep the pics coming

Going with a manual or auto tranny? Did you consider keeping what you have and divorcing an Atlas off the back?

Damn I would like to do something like this to mine, but never will have the balls or the $$ to.

BTW, the truck as it is looks great IMO and I would consider purchasing the lift you have now if the price is right.

Good luck :beer:

Thanks guys! . . . Yes, I will definitely take as many pics as I can. AJ at bentup.com is super-cool. He said it would be fine to take pics through the process and even get my hands dirty a bit.

@ Bones - I was thinking I would keep the tranny auto since that's what it is right now. (Plus, I heard that changing it could cause some issues with smog testing for some reason.) . . .

Yes, it was suggested to me by a local guy to possibly run the divorced Atlas on the back but when we called in it turned out that they don't have the appropriate adaptor. So I pretty much have to swap the tranny. . . .

I'm definitely going to be selling the current lift on it. Look me up again once my IFS is chopped off. :D

I wonder if you can still keep your tranny the way it is and just change the output shaft around

Your trans is very similar to the one used in a Jeep XJ, the AW4. The back half looks identical when you remove the tailhousing adapter on either trans.

Maybe someone knows a way to put a different output shaft in yours and then just use the jeep trans to tcase adapter, that way you can bolt the atlas right up to it. Novak-adapters maybe:confused:

Good luck on the build

Keep me posted is all. I may or may not want to mess with it. Mine has 3.90's I think and 33's would kill it on the highway is all.

Yo dood, is that a V6 or an I4?

If it is a V6, get yourself a bellhousing from an 88-95 V6 R150 and get an R151 tranny, then slap the typical 23 spline dual t-cases in there and you're done! That will put your T-case output on the right side (passenger side) to do the FJ-80 axle you want.

If it is an I4, just get an R151 and the bellhousing on it will mate up to your engine. Or I guess if you're on the cheap, get any W56 out of an 84-95 I4 and you can do a 21 spline dual case setup..

Speaking of, what are your plans for high-steer on that axle?

You're going to have a dope truck! You plan on putting the same bling rims on it as the bent up truck?

Hey, thanks for the great info! . . .

I’ve got the V6. . . Are you suggesting picking up the bell housing and tranny separate? I thought they would basically come together. . . . Also, as far as running dual cases, are you talking about running dual stock cases? . . . I figured that if I run dual cases then I might as get a Marlin Crawler so I can get some really low gears. . . .

For steering, I heard that I can just use the tie rods and steering arms that are already on the FJ80. I also have the IFS Steering Box 86-88, drilled and tapped for hydro assisted steering. . . . The only thing I need to figure out is the drag links. Any ideas? . . .

Thanks again for the help!

If you want to go 5-speed, I agree with finding the 151 if you can. You'll need the early 150 bellhousing to make it work, not the 151, since you have the V6. Likely the better bet is the 150 from a Tacoma, then a Marlin 150-4cyl tcase adapter followed by either a second 4-cyl tcase if you choose the FJ80 axle or a taco-tcase if you go another route.

Personally, and this is just me, I'd skip the Fj80 axle and go Diamond housing or Dana 44. Prices are very similar and you'll have an easier time with the steering on the Diamond or Dana 44.

Personally, and this is just me, I'd skip the Fj80 axle and go Diamond housing or Dana 44. Prices are very similar and you'll have an easier time with the steering on the Diamond or Dana 44.
I do agree. Diamond if you have the 3rd, longs and all that jazz. Wash if you are starting from scratch (Toy vs. D44). Steering on an FJ axle is a lot different and aftermarket support is little and $$.

Well, the reason I wanted to go with the FJ80 is because it's a 30 spline so it already has the strength to run 37" wheels without having to put down another $1000 in birfields, outer shafts, etc. . .

The FJ80 can also run the e-locker which saves me another $300-$400 setting up an ARB. And unlike the ARB, if the activating mechanism ever fails, you can just pull off the little shield on the diff and lock it with a screwdriver. With the ARB, if something happens to the hose, compressor, etc. . .. then no more locking. :shaking:

Lastly, I like the idea of getting the high pinion diff (1991+) for a better drive line angle. . . .

You can run an elocker in a regular toyota housing. I'd still rather have an ARB

You can run an elocker in a regular toyota housing. I'd still rather have an ARB

Or a diamond housing. I see the point about the HP, but the rest of the comments, IMHO, don't fit. Keep in mind that those 80 axles are full time, so you'll likely want to replace those birfs anyway, which are much more spendy than regular mini truck birfs. And I'm still not sure how you're going tomake the steering work effectively; the steering arms are under the knuckles w/ the tie rod in the back relatively low. You can get around this with (as mentioned) OTT arms, but I'm not sure they are still made or if OTT will machine your knuckles to work. The overall point being, don't rule out an easier/cheaper/stronger solution. Call Brian @ Diamond; I'm sure he'll have some great info. Or talk to the folks at Bent-up as well about their recommended solutions. Since you want to keep the budget low, there might be other options.

Either way, I'm really looking forward to this build!!!

Yeah dood, I'm going to third the opinions here. I've got an FJ-80 axle in my garage and I'm really hung on what to do with it (except sell it to one of you monkeys here :flipoff2: )

Get a diamond housing at the width you want set up to take a HP E-locker and use mini knuckles. I'm betting cost-wise it will all come out as a wash as FJ-80 e-locker axles aren't cheap to begin with. Currently there isn't a company that offers a high steer option for the FJ-80 axle. I think Slee offroad might be working on something but OTT quit doing their solution. If you left it as is, you would have to booty-fab up a Z draglink. No thanks.

Also, what I was saying about the bellhousing and trannys is that you might have to buy the tranny, take the bellhousing off and use it, or a bone yard might just sell the bellhousing. Search on car-part.com and call around. IF you are going to go the R-151 route (turbo 5 speed from 86-87 pickup) you will HAVE to get the bellhousing from an 88-95 V6 truck or 4runner (that was mated to a 3.0L V6) because if you get one from a 3.4L V6, the bellhousing is going to be too deep for the input shaft on the R151.

Then get your Marlin stuff and be stoaked! Good luck homes, I hope you've got good credit :D

You guys have some very good points, especially about the steering and the overall cost. . . . I'll ask Marlin and Aj if they recommend that I change the plan around. The only thing that's committing me to the FJ-80 at this point is that Marlin was gonna setup the Dual Ultimate Crawler with passenger side drive line and get it to me by the end of the day. We'll have to change that to driver side if we revert back to a Dana (or I assume for a Diamond also). . . .

Thanks for the input guys! . . . This is exactly what I needed!

Oh yeah, and as for the tranny . . . . Marlin already helped me to hunt down a 3.4L V6 Auto from a 2000 4Runner. As I heard before, he mentioned that going to a manual will cause problems with smog.

Keep in mind that you can still go dual cases/marlin ultimate w/ the driver's side drop as well. Diamond can make whatever housing you need, so if you want to go pass-side drop, Brian can do that.

You can get a dana passenger side drop, and a Diamond is custom, get it where ever you want the 3rd.

I honestly think you need to do a lot more reserch before spending $$ and having people chop into your rig and building you cases.

Well, running a driver's side drop would actually be easier because I can be sure not to have issues with the exhaust. With the FJ-80 I may have to reroute the exhaust a bit because it's on the passenger side . . . So if I went with a custom axle then I'd rather just go driver side and ask Marlin to do a left side Ultimate Crawler . . .

Yes, I agree plenty of research has to happen before doing a project like this. I have actually done as much as I can from searching all the forums. Now I'm just working out the details by asking questions on all the forums. Plus, I know that Marlin and Aj are the best out there. . . . So I trust that they'll help steer me right. I think it's really a matter of personal choices at this point. We know what will work and what won't. The question is only what will be the most cost effective.

The question is only what will be the most cost effective.
Stop this project now then :laughing: :flipoff2:

Stop this project now then :laughing: :flipoff2:

That's just mean.... true, but mean... :D

I have actually done as much as I can from searching all the forums. ....The question is only what will be the most cost effective.

You're not done researching until you can build the entire thing in your head. If you can build the entire thing in your head, then you have no more questions.

You bet, Marlin won't steer you wrong, but you're wasting your money and his time if you change your mind later.

I'm with Bones. If you're still trying to decide what is most cost-effective, stop spending money IMMEDIATELY!!

Thank you for the suggestion guys. . . . I respect that some of you may have a difference in opinion. I hope it's not offensive to you, but after addressing the issues you brought up with Marlin and Aj, I concluded that we can still go forward with this project . . . Basically, here are the pros and cons of a Dana44 versus an FJ80 . . .

Pros of Dana44
-- Easily found, usually cheaper, and can be upgraded with chromoly shafts/birfields . . .
-- Left hand drive line to avoid exhaust
-- Steering can be more easily setup

Pros of FJ-80
-- High pinion diff (without custom work)
-- E-locker can be used (cheapest manually engaged solution)
-- 5.29 gears can be used front and back (instead of 5.13 in front for Dana)
-- Stronger stock axle (30 spline) so no upgrade needed
-- I already have one ready to go coming right off the cruiser, hub to hub
-- "Coolness factor":: most SASs on Tacos have Danas. It's nice to have something different. :D

Basically, it's still very possible to set it up, and at the end of the day, it's not really going to be more costly. So we're still going to go that way. . . .

So yesteday I had a great time at Marlin Crawler getting the tranny and Crawler. . . It's amazing how incredibly helpful and friendly Marlin is! . . . . He found a tranny that we expect should do the job. It's a 4x4 V6 Auto off a 2000 4Runner with 50,000 miles. . . . After lots of inspection at TAP, it seemed that it should work. (Of course, we'll only know for sure once it's in. . . .)

Here's Marlin getting the tail housing preped up for the Crawler . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler4.jpg


He serviced the tranny right in the back of my truck. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler6.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler9.jpg


Meanwhile, Rocky getting the Dual Ultimate Crawler ready . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler2.jpg


And here's me stouting my new toy!


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/VisitingMarlinCrawler5.jpg


In addition, I picked up the following:
• T-case mounts (2)
• Dual transfer case crossmember
• Twin stick shifter
• Speed sensor kit

I also ran by the Toyota dealer and picked up a T100 2WD oil pan, strainer, and gasket which give better clearance for the front driveline. . . .I'll add more pics of this stuff later. . . .

You need to buy my geared FJ80 axle and spares:smokin:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=502165

damn bro you arent playing around are you? Build up is looking good! Keep up the pics

nice man. looks like you're doing it right the first time. glad to see that. :smokin:

You go with a geared case as well? Should be super overkill with you keeping the auto. Good luck brakeing...not breaking ;)

You go with a geared case as well? Should be super overkill with you keeping the auto. Good luck brakeing...not breaking ;)I just took Marlin's advice. :confused:

Well, we made a lot progress yesterday on the SAS and 4WD conversion. I hauled the parts up to Sacramento and met up with Aj to start on the work. Here’s some pics from the day’s work. . . .

Aj sorting through the parts . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS2.jpg


First we dropped the skid plates, bumper, and crush zone . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS3.jpg


Next came all the wheels, all the shocks, the upper and lower arms, the rack n’ pinion, the rear leaf packs, U-bolts, and bump stops . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS5.jpg


After that, Aj measured and cut a front crossmember support to strengthen the front of the frame. It was welded on just in front of the bottom of the radiator . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS6.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS10.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS20.jpg[/COLOR]

Next it was time to cut off the IFS mounts on the frame. The plasma cutter made that a quick job . . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS23.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS25.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS27.jpg


First one down . . .on to the second one behind it. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS29.jpg


Hammering off the second . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS31.jpg


Next was torching off the remains of the IFS mounting area . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS35.jpg


The oxygen tank ran out so we couldn’t finish torching and go on to the grinding. It’ll have to be done later . . .. So we went on to remove the tranny. . . First we dropped the drive shaft and then Aj loosened up the tranny bolts. It was a lot easier getting to the bolts on top because of the 3” body lift. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS42.jpg

We strapped the tranny to the tranny-lift and I stepped back to take another pic . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS45.jpg


After lifting the tranny off the jack, we set it down next to the 4x4 tranny and swapped some of the wiring. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS48.jpg


One of the plugs was actually mounted from inside the trannys so we had to pull off the oil pans to swap them . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS50.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS51.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS52.jpg

I never saw the innards of a tranny before . . . pretty cool! . . . After putting the new tranny on the lift and jacking it up, we were happy to see that it mounted right in without any problems . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS58.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS59.jpg


Next we hoisted the Dual Ultimate Crawler on the jack and mounted it in . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS75.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS80.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS74.jpg


The only problem (which we already anticipated) is that the exhaust would have to be slightly rerouted. The second cat was right up against the output for the front drive shaft. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS76.jpg


Aj said he could heat it and bend himself, or his buddy from Midas can take care of it later. . . .

Next we needed to swap the oil pan with one from a 2WD T100 which has the bulge on the back side instead of the front. That should give the clearance needed for the front axle to flex. Dropping the oil pan . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS67.jpg


Swapping the oil strainer . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS69.jpg


Prepping the new pan with a sealant and mounting it . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS71.jpg


Installing the new pan . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS73.jpg


The last thing we done that day was to prep the shackles and springs on the rear axle. The bolt holes on my current ToyTec shackles needed to be bored out for the bigger bolts and bushing of the new springs . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS85.jpg


We mounted the new springs and U-bolts to the axle and put the shackles back . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS87.jpg


That was really more than enough work for one day so we cleaned up shop and called it quits. We really can’t do a whole lot more until we wait for several parts to come in . . . .

Parts Still Needed

Now we basically need to wait for the following parts before we can continue . . .

• FJ-80 axle (Aj should be picking it up on Tuesday)
• High steer kit (Marlin said he can customize drag links when we send him measurements. The tie rod ends and pitman arm are also available. The only thing we’re waiting on is the steering arms. OTT says they will not make them anymore. However, 4x4 labs is going to get back to us about possibly building some.)
• Custom drive shafts (The front will have a lengthened 10” spline so it doesn’t fall out during full flex. Aj still needs to measure the drive line to order them.)
• Custom brake lines. (They need to be longer than the ones for the Toyota pickup.)
• Steering shaft (from Aj)
• 3 sets of drive shaft bolts (from Marlin)
• 3 T-case bolts
• Lots of oils & fluids (engine, tranny, t-cases, brakes, power steering, and gears) (I’m still waiting for a shipment of most of that from Amsoil!)


Labor that still needs to be done

The following are the tasks still ahead . . .

• Relocate rear spring mounts 3” forward, weld on shock mounts, bolt up rear springs with axle, and install rear shocks
• Install high steer kit
• Weld up front spring hanger, measure shackle angle for axle to be as far forward as possible, weld on shack mounts, bolt on shackles, and and bolt up front axle
• Weld up shock hoops and install front shocks
• Mount steering box (Aj will fabricate a mount for it since the one from Marlin is too big.)
• Modify and weld up dual t-case crossmember
• Modify center console to accommodate Marlin t-case shifter and twin stick
• Modify and reinstall catalytic converter
• Install drive shafts


A few questions . . .

The following are a few questions that we need to clear up to be sure the 4WD conversion is going to work. . .

• Why does the 2WD tranny seem to have 4 solenoids while the 4WD tranny has 3 solenoids? (The difference can be seen in this picture with Aj holding the wire inside the 2WD tranny.)


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS53.jpg


• What is the cable shifter on the 4x4 tranny that isn’t on the 2WD tranny? (I circled it in the following pictures.)


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS49edited.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS%20and%204WD%20conversion/SAS73edited.jpg


• What is the best route to take for steering? (Is there any other place that makes arms for the FJ-80? . . . If we can't find them, should we resort to low steering?)

looking good. sas' are fun. im sure aj can figure that stuff out, hes done a ton of taco sas'.

I did a ton of research for FJ80 steering solutions and none seem to exist, although Christo Slee at www.sleeoffroad.com is working on a solution. I ended up just going full hydro to clear the leaves on my pickup. I don't have any pics yet, or I would post them for you.

Ary

you bought from TAP............:(

otherwise:smokin:

@ kiyul4130 - Yes, Aj is awesome. . . . This is actually the first time he's done a 4WD conversion so he never had to deal with the fine details that exist between transmissions. We just thought it would be good to know for sure why those differences are there so we don't have problems later . . .

@ Arya Ebrahimi - Are you saying that by going with hydro-assisted steering you were able to bypass the whole problem? If that's the case, I would much rather do that. . . . I know Trail-Gear is supposed to come out with a whole kit very soon. . . . The steering box I picked up is already drilled and tapped for hydro-assist. . . .

@ SeaBass44 - Marlin actually hooked up the deal. I know I got a far better price with his help than on my own, even if it is through TAP.

Truck is going to be REAL nice. :smokin: I have no idea on the tranny issues. Marlin should be able to steer you in the right direction. I really wanted to swap in a 4x4 manual and tcase for future SAS, but know I would never do it once cutting day come around. I think you will really like the auto off road. I am curious how it works for you and if it stays cool. Might want to get a tranny temp gauge.

Full hydro and street driving is not recomended and might be illegal in your state.

Email me at 30bones@gmail.com I have some questions about your old setup.

Thanks

i'm really curious what you will do with the 80 axle. I've been wanting to put one under a rig, but it's really $$$ and the support isn't really there....Thanks for doing the research for me!

No, I'm saying that by going full-hydro I was able to avoid the whole problem, but my rig is trail only, so street driving wasn't a concern.

Basically, I was saying I don't know how you're gonna handle this problem.

I agree - do NOT go full hydro on this thing. Do it correct, even if that means having to abandoned your high dollar Fj80 axle in favor of a Diamond housing w/ mini-truck knuckles. I suspect that will actually be cheaper anyway if you have to have steering arms custom made...

I agree - do NOT go full hydro on this thing. Do it correct, even if that means having to abandoned your high dollar Fj80 axle in favor of a Diamond housing w/ mini-truck knuckles. I suspect that will actually be cheaper anyway if you have to have steering arms custom made...
I agree and he can be sure to keep the springs at 29" centers, make it wide to mach the rear and not have to run 2" backspaced wheels and/or spacers to further jack up your steering when locked up front.

Friend had an FJ80 front he never got installed, but getting perches at 29" centers was tough and the diff side perch was way up on the housing making the one on the other end of the housing real tall and goofy looking. Plus it's not a round tube housing and makes things like this more work IMO.

Spreading the perches wasn't really hard at all. I just cut my marlin hanger in half and welded a 2.5" reciever tube in the middle and it actually widened the perches too much, so I may have to unwiden the hanger a bit, by removing some material on each side of the reciever tube.

The biggest problem with the 80 housing is steering, other than that it's a fantastic axle that has a few minor issues that are easily worked around.

Im going the same route in a few months in my Tacoma except using coils and 3 link. Im starting to see a few more FJ80 SAS Tacos out there, just when I thought I was going to be one of the few.

How about the FJ80 housing/3rd/shafts with minitruck balls/knuckles/birfs/hubs?

Wasn't there an overseas market Toy LC that was built like this--Prada? Wasn't Kiwi_Steve doing an SAS with such an axle?

I'm interested in seeing how you setup the draglink. Just make it safe. It can be done, contrary to what the nay-sayers tell you. :)

Bones- If you don't mind, next time you see Tim (I think that was his name), tell him that I'm still waiting on the other parts he was supposed to ship. Maybe I'll get them someday. Thanks.

@ Bones - Thank you. . . . I take it you changed your mind about your comment “Stop this project now then” . . . Anyhow, thanks for the advise concerning the full hydro. . . . I’d be happy to e-mail you about my old setup. . .

@ myota - Yes, the support is very limited. It’s probably one of the major problems of going with the FJ80, besides the cost as you mentioned. . . . . I was willing to deal with it for the sake of it being a 30-40% heaftier axle with stronger 27-spline shafts, high pinion dif, matching dif gears with the rear, and the e-locker. . . .

@Arya & rockota - Ok, I won’t do full hydro. . . . As it stands now, there doesn’t seem to really be a solution for the steering. Aj went to a buddy’s place yesterday to pick up the axle but changed his mind. There just didn’t seem to be any clear way to work the steering. And low steering is just not an option . . . Another problem was that there didn’t seem to be a clear way to run leaf springs on it since it was designed for coils . . . It looks like we’ll have to resort back to a Dana44 after all. It’s kind of disappointing. But I’m more concerned with just getting a good working axle that’s strong, locked, and geared . . . Aj’s brother recalls seeing an axle for sale that he owned at one time. It’s complete hub to hub, with cromoly shafts, 5.13 gears, an ARB locker, the pumpkin on the right side, and even the complete high steer. It was going for $1800. I think that would be a good choice at this point . . . We’ll see. . . .

@ thepinktaco - That should be an interesting project. I definitely want to see that. By the way, I don’t personally know of other Tacos out there that are running FJ-80s. Could you possibly point to threads on the forum if you know of any. That would be nice for collecting more ideas. . . .

@ MT4Runner - That was suggested to me by a guy from Sky Manufacturing. But unfortunately it turns out that the mini knuckles can’t possibly work with the FJ-80.

Fastrexxx - I understand that Marlin can get the draglinks ready (since the bung is metric), but the main problem is the steering arm. . . .

There is no match for your rear axle for 5.13 gears in a D44. The closest match in that range would be 5.38 to 5.29, but that's still a bit off.

If you go with the D44 that's built, you will want to go to 5.38's and 5.29's out back since it's a closer match than 5.13.

For 1800 I'd consider stepping up to one tons, but that is a whole nuther thread :D Good Luck

Is there an echo? :D

Bones, did you see this guys vids in Gen 4x4? He doesn't need one tons yet, he needs seat time. ;)

Is there an echo? :D

Bones, did you see this guys vids in Gen 4x4? He doesn't need one tons yet, he needs seat time. ;)
I was having technical difficulties :D

I am not doubting that either just by the sum of $$ that is being spent on this build. Either way I like it.

My next mod for my prerunner double cab......a tonnue cover! :smokin:

I would love to see a parts cost run down of the project, if you don't mind disclosing that information :smokin:

@ thepinktaco - That should be an interesting project. I definitely want to see that. By the way, I don’t personally know of other Tacos out there that are running FJ-80s. Could you possibly point to threads on the forum if you know of any. That would be nice for collecting more ideas. . . ..

I know Homegrown on this forum has a couple on their website.

This one is a big write up.
http://www.toyotatrailriders.com/forum/showthread.php?t=444

Hmmm . . . I read through that whole thread very carefully. I can see that he had to wrestle with the steering problem also but I can't see what is final solution was. :confused:

Got propane also runs this axle with a homebrew setup and he gets it. searching for another link that might help

not much help http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348093&highlight=fj80+steering

Hmmm . . . I read through that whole thread very carefully. I can see that he had to wrestle with the steering problem also but I can't see what is final solution was. :confused:
That's mine. I haven't come up with a viable solution yet.... It was really intended to be on the truck for only one run. The nice thing is that it's a trail only truck for now. Don't do it the way I did!

Fortunately, the drag link (front) has held up on the last 5-6 runs. The tierod (rear) on the other hand has taken a beating. I've had to straighten it back a few times. It's getting replaced with 1.5"/.25"wall DOM and .75" rod ends tonight.

I might try to make a PS highsteer arm and cross over with a straight draglink, or just say to hell with it and do full hydro. I'm really riding the fence on that one....

Too late for you since Marlin's got you covered, but FYI for Bones or anyone else- Jim @ Inchworm has an adapter now that converts the stock 2wd auto's to be able to accept a T-case. No need to swap the whole tranny any more. Choice of driver's or pass. drop too I think. :grinpimp:

Nice build! Are you going to lose the body lift hopefully? (I didn't read too thoroughly).

I know this is a little after the fact as well, but if you decided to link the FJ-80 axle, you could run stock steering. Offroad solutions has a kit you can use to link your junk up.

The biggest downfall to that, at least to me, besides the price is how tall most of those rigs have ended up. 35s are the smallest you would want to go with ORS's coilover solution. Dope shit though!

Im going to have my frame about 25 inches off the ground which is about 10 inches of lift over stock. Im going to run 35s for now then going to 37s in the future. Still dont know about the link placements yet.

Thanks for the input guys . . .

Ok, at this point I just need to settle two issues to finish this project:

1. Is it possible to run a high steer setup on the FJ80 with front leaf springs, and if so then where can I get the steering arms? . . . We were in touch with OTT and they said they’re not making then because there isn’t enough demand. Plus, when Aj went to look at the axle, there didn’t seem to be any clear way to set it up. . . . Can anyone offer a conclusive way on how to do it? . . . Otherwise I’m going to have to resort back to a Dana44 . . .

2. I talked to Marlin yesterday about the differences between the transmissions (that shifter cable I mentioned and the 3 versus 4 solenoids). He doesn’t think it’s going to work. Right now it’s already installed. Should we measure out the drive line, order the drive shafts and given it a try? Or should we just take it out now before we possibly mess something up by trying to run it? . . . I’m already starting to look around for a better match tranny (2003, V6, 3.4L, auto from a 4x4) . . .

@ Bones - Wow, I didn’t know you actually started a project similar to mine. . . . All those examples by Homebrew seem to be coils. I was hoping to see how someone did it with leaf springs . . .

@ fastrexx - I hope you get that whole thing sorted . . . I won’t be able to run full hydro myself because I still roll this thing on the street. . . .

@ ErikB - Hmmm, that adaptor plate might be a viable option now. Do you have a link to that? (This (http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=21_38) was the closest thing that I could find.) . . . As for the body lift, the thing is that I want to be able to run 37” tires and I know that it takes at least a 9” lift to clear the inner fenders. I’m thinking that I’ll get 6” from the leaf springs at most. So I need the extra 3” from the body lift to clear the tires . . . unless there’s a better option altogether. . . . As for stock steering, I would rather not go that route since it leaves the steering lower and vulnerable to damage. I'm really hoping to get a high steer setup to work somehow . . .

@ thepinktaco - Wow, how are you getting 10” of lift? That’s great!

I never started a project similar to yours...lol I won't cut up my double cab ever.

That link was my old rig I was going to buy back and run F/R FJ80 axles and leafs and some sort of cobbled up highsteer similar to Propanes.

You are runnig into a lot of hurdles and your truck is all torn apart and torched off suspension. It's costing you a fortune and I honestly do not think you know what you want out of this. Sounds like you are building/wanting a hard core rig and you ahve real limited wheeling experience. Most bought an older toyota and kept the nice Tacoma for DDing. You are going to be way to tall, long and heavy to do any tight trails. You are going to get a lot of skid marks in your shorts wheeling it, since it WILL feel real tippy off camber. My 4runner was the same way when I fist did the SAS. It was sky high and I didn't feel comfortable pushing it since it was so tall.

Sell it and buy a buggy :flipoff2:

Scrap the FJ80 axle idea and go with a Diamond. Trying to save a couple of $$ by cutting corners isn't helping you right now - it's actually costing you more, I suspect. Don't take this as a slam, but I don't think you had all of this figured out before you started torching - that's why so many of us were trying to push you in certain directions.

My recommendation is this:
Talk to Marlin about returning the Ultimate crawler in favor of something specific for the taco - a driver's drop using a Taco tcase. Buy a Diamond fron Housing from Brian to your specs and use Mini truck outers. Then go back to the drawing board and figure out what else you have missed.

Unfortunately, you are now w/o vehicle because of poor planning. It's still a great project, but is going to cost you a lot more than you thought because of this little snafu. Good luck!

You guys are all nay-sayers. I know it certainly seems like homey here rushed into things, but hell, he is getting things done!

Before you scrap the fj-80 idea, call Slee offroad and ask if they have any prototype high steer or something similar you could use to at least get your drag link to the top of the knuckle. I know they were working on something that could be adapted to get together a high steer.

The next best bet would be to get a diamond made to your specs with mini knuckles and either get it set up for the HP e-locker or drop a HP with an ARB in it. You can get the pumpkin on either side at the width you want. Put 30 spliners in there from bobby and be done with it.

The CHEAPEST route is a D44. Maybe you could use an FJ-40 or 60 axle to get some width, but your locker and gear selection would be limited (although can't you put an elocker out of the rear of an fj-80 in one of those?).

Sucks about the tranny. I don't know squat about autos. If you ask me, I'd drop a R-151 in there, bolt it straight to your dual ultimate and call it maceroni. Of course I wouldn't have the balls to cut up an 02 Dcab either..

Guys, guys relax. . . . It's not the end of the world. The project will still turn out fine. There's always bound to be a few kinks to work out with stuff like this, right? . . . I'm not worried about my IFS being torched off because we were going to do that no matter what. I'm not sure why you say that truck is "costing me a fortune"? I haven't done anything different than any other SAS at this point. :confused:

As for the truck not being drivable right now, it's not a problem either. I have a little 90 Celica that I use for driving to work anyways. (It gets much better MPG) . . .

As for getting an old truck for dedicated off-roading, that's something that I honestly can afford. I need a nice truck for hauling stuff and crusing the family. I figured I would make it off-road capable as well. Then I have the Celica for daily driving. I don't have a place to put a third vehicle . . . I've hard of other guys running 37" tires on Tacomas. I don't see why mine would be any more top heavy then there's. :confused:

Anyhow, back to the issues, if worst comes to worst, I can run a Dana44 like most of the other Taco SASs out there. It's not biggie. I just thought it would be nice to do the FJ-80 for the high pinion, e-locker, and strength of the stock birfields. But if it won't work,

I did as much planning as I could. After getting the "go ahead" from Aj and Marlin, I started. I personally trust their advise and so far nothing has gone wrong. It's just a matter of making a final decision on the axle and mounting it.

You are runnig into a lot of hurdles and your truck is all torn apart and torched off suspension. It's costing you a fortune and I honestly do not think you know what you want out of this. Sounds like you are building/wanting a hard core rig and you ahve real limited wheeling experience. Most bought an older toyota and kept the nice Tacoma for DDing. You are going to be way to tall, long and heavy to do any tight trails. You are going to get a lot of skid marks in your shorts wheeling it, since it WILL feel real tippy off camber. My 4runner was the same way when I fist did the SAS. It was sky high and I didn't feel comfortable pushing it since it was so tall.

Sell it and buy a buggy :flipoff2:

You can't fault the guy for wanting to build a "clean", badass rig. Limited experience or not. I don't see what "experience" has to do with it. If he has the money to build this, let him build it. Who came up wth this "everyone should start out with something older?" Most of the time I hear this theory spoken by guys who are broke. I'm not saying you're broke Bones, don't take offense. I'm saying, alot of times when a guy steps out of the box on his build, the haters come out of the woodwork and start giving him a hard time for spending alot of money, or doing something different. 9 out of 10 times the guy talking shiat wheeling a budget build from Pick n pull.

I don't even read the budget build threads anymore because why? There's no tech in them. That's why. BUT, you can bet they'll be tech in this thread if he's not discouraged into mini axles or one tons, etc.

Rant off. Sorry for the hijack Revivalist. Keep up the good work.

I want to be able to run 37” tires and I know that it takes at least a 9” lift to clear the inner fenders. I’m thinking that I’ll get 6” from the leaf springs at most. So I need the extra 3” from the body lift to clear the tires . . . unless there’s a better option altogether.
That's why I say it will be top heavy. You re trying to lift the truck to clear the tires instead of doing moderate life and lots of fender trimming and firewall to keep the truck as low as possible allowing it to perform better. By the time I parted out my junk I had 40's and as little lift as possible and hacked fenders/firewall and it was pretty low. I think it was 25-26" to the bottom of the frame and not much over 6' tall to the roof.

Curious to see where you end up is all. I am sure it will all work out. I just feel bad since you have that $$ tied up in the tranny/doubler and it may not work is all. My vote goes for a diamond housing once you decide which side you want the diffy. Still can use an high pinion Elocker that you want.

EDIT; oh and Fo-Runna...I AM Broke :laughing: I can't fathom building up a rig of any buget right now

you do not need 10"s of lift to run 37's

before big lift
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/My%20SAC/struck0246vi.jpg

after
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/fyilgfiuy001.jpg


the axle.................Hmmmmmmmmmmm, do what you want:)

Keep taking pics:grinpimp:

Seabass you are a man of few words and always has a huge sig line(s) :laughing:

Seabass you are a man of few words and always has a huge sig line(s) :laughing:


18,673 posts, nope I got nothin to say:p :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

@ ErikB - Hmmm, that adaptor plate might be a viable option now. Do you have a link to that? (This (http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=21_38) was the closest thing that I could find.) . . . As for the body lift, the thing is that I want to be able to run 37” tires and I know that it takes at least a 9” lift to clear the inner fenders. I’m thinking that I’ll get 6” from the leaf springs at most. So I need the extra 3” from the body lift to clear the tires . . . unless there’s a better option altogether. . . . As for stock steering, I would rather not go that route since it leaves the steering lower and vulnerable to damage. I'm really hoping to get a high steer setup to work somehow . .

The one in the link is the 4wd tranny adapter. The new one isn't on his web site yet. He sells a LOT of stuff that's not on his web site. He's probably got more adapter options than Marlin does these days. Give Jim a call, he is super helpful like Marlin and others.

I agree with the others who say its going to be too tall. If you move the axle forward and do some fender trimming/tubbing, you should have more than enough room to clear 37's with 4-6" of lift.
It will also drive and handle a lot better on the street and on the trail (less tippy) and I think you will be happier with the rig over all with it lower. It just takes a little bit more work (trimming/tubbing) and planning (locating the axle and steering).

As for the axle, I'm partial to the D44 since its got tighter steering (and that's what I run :D), but the Diamond housing is also an excellent option. The D44 will likely require the master cylinder be changed out too though (see my brake page).

Also, "low-steer" really isn't necessarily a bad thing. I've been running it for ~6 years with a beefy tie rod and have NEVER had any problems. Its actually stronger than hi-steer would have been since all the steering loads don't go through that passenger side steering arm.
The real problem with that FJ80 axle is connecting the drag link...

x2 on the ride height. I think the problem is you're still thinking like the guy who calls 4wdParts and asks for a lift kit that will clear a certain tire size. In the pic that seabass posted, that guys trimmed a lot of his fenders off and tubbed his firewall. Quit thinking about how much lift you need, and start looking for ways to clearance the wheel wells. Unless of course, you're going to use the rig to cruise mall parking lots. In that case, just stack another frame on top of yours, bolt the body on, and hit the pavement.

Thanks Fo-runna. No apology needed. It’s nice to know there’s someone around here who’s not opposed to this build. :D

About being top heavy, I didn’t realize that it would be such an issue. I guess I’ll try running the 37s first and if I’m leaning over too much on the trail, then I’ll consider removing the body lift and doing some trimming. The thing is that since it’s a “clean” ride, I would rather not cut up the body or fenders. . . . Anyway, I’ll deal with that issue when I get there . . .

As for the axle, I think I’ll start looking around for a Dana44. . . .

I was told today that the tranny might still work because the internals of the 4WD are different from the 2WD. I’ll guess I’ll give it a try and see if it works. If it doesn’t, I was already told I could get a full refund on it. . . . By the way, should be considered about the drive shaft length? Do we have to settle on which tranny for sure before we do it, or will the drive shafts be the same no matter what? . . .

Thanks ErikB for the suggestion. I’ll give Jim at inchworm a call today about that adaptor. . . .

I appreciate all the info guys . . . .I have to admit . . . pirate4x4 seems to have the meanest guys but also the most helpful input . . .

Wait of driveshafts until you get it all bolted up and measure a few times.

You sticking with a passenger side drop? If so, get a full width chevy and narrow the long side to accept a stock length shaft to avoid more custom stuff. Read ErikB's SAS also. Different rig, but same concept you are shooting for. He even has a rear Tacoma axle so you might be able to copy him as far as width goes. ;)

BTW, not opposed to the build at all, just voicing my opinion and giving as much constructive critisism as I can. :beer:

Looks :smokin: :smokin: !! Dont you love clean, fresh parts lying around??

Looks :smokin: :smokin: !! Dont you love clean, fresh parts lying around??Love it! . . . And I'd like'm even better if they were bolted/welded on my truck! :D

Thanks for the ideas, Bones. Yeah, I would rather stick with the passenger side drop since I already bought that Dual Ultimate from Marlin. . . . As for the chevy, would that have all the features I need in an axle (correct lug pattern, high pinion, able to run an e-locker and 5.29 gears or close)? . . .

I'm glad your not opposed to the build. I guess I just have to get used to your unique way of encouraging me . . . with comments like "Stop this project now" . . . "Sell it and buy a buggy" . . . oh, and of course using this :flipoff2: smiley every few posts. . . . :p . . . But hey, I think you've given me more ideas and technical advise than anyone. Thanks! :)

---------------------------

News update: There's been an interesting turn of events. I talked to Jim from inchworm today. (Super-nice guy, by the way!) . . . He had excellent input concerning the steering and the tranny. . . .

1. The steering: Jim says that he will get in touch with OTT to see if they will provide the steering arms for the FJ-80. When I called OTT before they said they won't make them anymore. But Jim said it's because of the hassle of shipping to them the knuckles to be machined, having the steering arms mounted, and then having them shipped back. . . . Jim says he can do the maching here in his shop. So he's going to see if they'll just ship him the arms and he will take care of the rest. . . . The only problem is that if they're willing to do it, it could take them as much as 6 weeks to send them! :shaking:

2. The tranny: Jim has the adaptor to connect my 2WD tranny to the Dual Ultimate t-case! . . . So I wouldn't even have to use that 4WD tranny! I think that sounds like the best option . . .

By the way, for anyone who's interested, Jim was able to answer those questions I posted earlier about the tranny (in post #36 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5875544&postcount=36)). It turns out that the cable on the 2000 4WD tranny that we couldn't identify is supposed to connect to the throttle cable to tell the tranny how much throttle the truck is getting. (I guess it has something to do with the way it shifts.) The 2003 2WD tranny that I had on my truck didn't have this cable because the newer trannies have a computer that tells the tranny this info. This also has something to do with why the newer 2WD tranny has 4 solenoids while the older 4WD tranny only has 3. . . So he said that we could try just moving the extra solenoid from the 2WD to the 4WD tranny. . . Either that or just run the 2WD tranny with the adaptor. . . . I definitely chose the adaptor! :cool2:

On a side note, today I was also offered a diamond axle that is ready hub to hub with chromoly shafts and 30-spline longfields, 5.29 gears, an e-locker, and a full high-steer kit. It's only been on a single run through the Rubicon. It's going for $6000. . .What do you guys think?

On a side note, today I was also offered a diamond axle that is ready hub to hub with chromoly shafts and 30-spline longfields, 5.29 gears, and an e-locker. It's only been on a single run through the Rubicon. It's going for $6000. . .What do you guys think?

Wow, only 6000.00. I'd buy two or three at that price...:shaking:

That axle MIGHT be worth 3000, on a good day, when you're broke on the trail, and REALLY need it.

You are in Custom D60 territory there (Rockcrusher/Dynatrac/Terrra/Currie), and if that is your budget, that is where I would go (I think youd actually save a few bucks provided you didnt want kingpin or ARB!!)

Damn, I wish I'd have known about the 2wd adapter before I swapped my tranny out this summer :(

I really like the build and your overall goals for the rig, but I have to agree with the others concerning the overall height. It would be my suggestion to skip the body lift, and if you dont want to cut the fenders, get some nice fiberglass fenders with bigger wheel openings. When painted to match this would give you the clean look and will fit the tire better. I personally hate the look of a rig with little wheelwells that dont match the curvature of the tire, especially since this is usually combined with a sky high lift.

Alright, I've been doing more research and considering the following options . . .

• The axle: I think I'm giving up on the FJ80 and Dana44 and I'll take the advise that lots of you guys already gave . . . a custom Diamond axle. (I'm sorry I didn't listen sooner. :shaking:)

Here's all the advantages that I came up with for the Diamond:

-- General Advantages of the Diamond --
1. It's extremely strong and compact
2. I can decide the exact length I want to match my rear axle.
3. It's essentially a Toyota mini so I can get replacement parts from anywhere (Marlin Crawler, Trail Gear, Inchworm, etc.)
4. I can decide which side to put the differential
5. I don't have to go hunting through wrecking yards for a used axle

-- Advantages over FJ-80 --
6. The steering problem is solved (since I can get the high steer kit anywhere)
7. No paying to modify a FJ-80 housing for an e-locker

-- Advantages over Dana44 --
7. I can run the same gears front and back
8. I can run an e-locker
9. It can be high pinion

So here's what I think would be the price breakdown for the full front end:

-- Housing $900 (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=121&osCsid=1a60dc7802066738fbce6be380026d16)
-- Locked differential (with 4.88 or 5.29 gears): $1300 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm)
-- 30-spline chromoly Birfields: $635 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
-- Chromoly inner shafts: $200 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
-- Highsteer kit $400 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
-- Did I miss anything?????

Total in parts: $3500

Are any of the following extra parts needed or helpful for the front end?
Knuckle ball kit??: $29 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
Upper axle reinforcement gusset??: $25 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
Differential armor??: $69 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
Manual hubs??: $291 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm)
E-locker motor guard??: $49 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm)


• The t-case: If I go with the Diamond, then should I see if Marlin will swap out the passenger side Dual Ultimate for a driver's side? If he's willing, then I don't have to hassle with rerouting the exhaust. . . .

• The ring and pinion gears: At first I was told to go with 5.29s. But after searching around on-line, all of the gear tables seem to indicate that 37" tires should use 4.88s for better gas ecomony. I know that this would sacrifice power on the trail, but I was thinking that the Dual Ultimate would easily make up for that, right? In fact, I was thinking that I could even run Dual 4.71 t-cases to bring the crawl ratio back up to where it was. Any thoughts? . . .

• The lift: I agree with you guys about not wanting to be top heavy, and also the point that Flexy Flatty made about not wanting to have small wheel wells that the tires can't even fit inside of. What do you guys think if I do just a little bit of trimming of the front bumper? I'm thinking about this rig that Aj at bentup did before. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/ExampleofSASbyBentup1.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/ExampleofSASbyBentup2.jpg

Take note of the front bumper that was slightly timmed. I'm pretty sure he can stuff the whole tire in that wheelwell. I'm planning to run 37"s, not 40"s like that guy, so I probably wouldn't have to do that rear trimming.

Sounds like you have a good plan together. That $6K used Diamond axle is laughable. You can build one for under $4K, as you've already seen. If it meets your specs, offer the guy $2500. Your list looks good, but remember that you'll need knuckles, rotors, hubs from a mini truck axle still.

MAke sure you tell Brian exactly what front diff you want to run so he builds the axle accordingly.

As for the height, I'd do this. Get the thing tacked together and see how it looks. I suspect the 5" springs will be a tad tall, but maybe not. AJ can help in that area. Once you have it tacked together, you'll probably want to pull that body lift. Another option is to swap the 5" springs for 3"...

Nothing wrong with triming the bumper at all. Just make sure you mount the front axle far enough forward to prevent the tires from stuffing into the rear of the fenders...

longs come with the axles, so knock $200 off your list.

you need a doner solid axle for knuckles, spindles, hubs, knuckle wiper set, rotor backing plates ( I WOULD GET BACKING PLATE ELIMINATERS)
you can byt calipers, rotors and all bearing new. Might as well get the 6 hole arms Marlin has, there might be a 6 stud knuckle someday;)

as the saying goes
"THAT IS A HUGE BITCH!"

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/ExampleofSASbyBentup1.jpg

Thanks for the input guys . . . Let me make sure I have this straight. So here’s what I need to get . . .

-- Housing and chromoly inner shafts: $900 (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=121&osCsid=1a60dc7802066738fbce6be380026d16) (from www.diamondaxle.com)
-- Locked differential (with 4.88 or 5.29 gears): $1300 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm) (from Marlin)
-- 30-spline chromoly Birfields: $645 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/ahtm/axles.htm) (from Marlin)
-- Highsteer kit (with 6 bolts) (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm) (from Marlin)

-- Knuckles (from wrecking yard or from Marlin when the six bolt version comes out)
-- Rotors (from wrecking yard)
-- Spindles (from wrecking yard)
-- Hubs (from wrecking yard)
-- Calipers (by new from somewhere)
-- Rotors (by new from somewhere)
-- Bearings (by new from somewhere)
-- Brake pads ((by new from somewhere)

-- Rotor backing plate eliminator (from where?)
-- Knuckle wiper set (from where?)

A few other questions . . .

-- Should I get the hydro assist steering kit? My steering box is already drilled and tapped. Should I spring the $200 to get the kit from Trail Gear (http://www.trail-gear.com/hydro-steering.html)?

-- Is there any reason to use multiple shocks? (I saw this on my neighbor’s truck the other day and I was wondering if there is any benefit to it?)

-- Any comments concerning what I wrote in the last post about ring and pinion gears? Would running 4.88s and then using the Dual Ultimate still give enough torque on the trail? I was thinking about going this route because I think that 4.88s will give better gas mileage on the street. . . .

i just finished the sas on my taco and im running 4.88's , im running a D44 front so it kinda forced me to go with the 4.88's if i wanted a matched set f/r. with the 3.4l and the 5speed trans the 4.88's seem to be just right around town and on the highway (oh yeah, im running the 37-1450 toyo mt's) i dont have a front d-line built yet so i havent had a chance to run it on the trail but with a duel case set up i wouldnt worry about 4.88's being too fast on the trail. I'm running trail gear 5" springs f/r and NO body lift, the truck is actually about an inch higher that i would like, im gonna try and get the ride height down a little and trim the fenders. i think 5" springs and a 3" body lift would be pretty crazy high for your truck. I clear the front uncut fenders by 12" and i have 28" from ground to frame. i wish i would have gone with the 4" springs but i think i will take the bottom leaf out of f/r packs and see if it will settle down some. hope this info helps, i could email some pics if you like.

You guys are all nay-sayers. I know it certainly seems like homey here rushed into things, but hell, he is getting things done!

Before you scrap the fj-80 idea, call Slee offroad and ask if they have any prototype high steer or something similar you could use to at least get your drag link to the top of the knuckle. I know they were working on something that could be adapted to get together a high steer.

The next best bet would be to get a diamond made to your specs with mini knuckles and either get it set up for the HP e-locker or drop a HP with an ARB in it. You can get the pumpkin on either side at the width you want. Put 30 spliners in there from bobby and be done with it.

The CHEAPEST route is a D44. Maybe you could use an FJ-40 or 60 axle to get some width, but your locker and gear selection would be limited (although can't you put an elocker out of the rear of an fj-80 in one of those?).

Sucks about the tranny. I don't know squat about autos. If you ask me, I'd drop a R-151 in there, bolt it straight to your dual ultimate and call it maceroni. Of course I wouldn't have the balls to cut up an 02 Dcab either..

FJ40 is 55", yes same as mini, no width gain there:confused:

Expect a long time to get your Diamond Axle. I ordered mine in May and still haven't received it. I don't think AJ wants your truck sitting there for 5 months while it waits for an axle. I would go with the Wagoneer axle or an f250 hi-pinion since they are available right now.

I would still pick up a Toy mini axle for the parts needed to complete the Diamond axle, such as hubs, hardware, knuckles, etc.

Nice to see you were prepared for such a project

@ dangerous toy - Thank you, sir. That is very helpful information! . . . Then I think I’ll run 4.88s for the street and then make up for any lost torque on the trail with the Dual Ultimate Marlin Crawler. . . .

According to my calculations, the crawl ratio with 4.88s is hardly different from the crawl ratio with 5.29s. Here’s my specs . . .

Transmission 1st gear: 3.93
First t-case: 2.28
2nd t-case: 4.70
Ring and pinion: 4.88 or 5.29

Crawl Ratio with 4.88 ring and pinion: 3.93 x 2.28 x 4.7 x 4.88 = 205:1
Crawl Ratio with 5.29 ring and pinion: 3.93 x 2.28 x 4.7 x 5.29 = 223:1

I don’t think I would notice the difference between 223:1 and 205:1. So I think 4.88s are definitely the way to go . . .

That’s also very interesting news about your lift. I still haven’t put on the 5” springs from Trail Gear so I could possibly exchange them for the 4” if I want to. (Trail Gear is right down the street from me so there would be no hassle.) . . . . I would really like to see how you trimmed your fenders. Can you post some pics in this thread? That would be super-helpful. . . .

By the way, were you really FORCED to run 4.88s to get a matched set? I was told that gears can be off as much as 5% without any problems, especially if you only used 4WD under 35MPH. So supposedly it would be possible to run 5.29s in the back with 5.13s or 5.38s in the front. . . .

------------------------------------------

@ CronusTRD - Thanks for the info. . . . Wow, you ordered it in May?! .. . . They must be incredibly backed up! . . . You’re right, Aj doesn’t want my truck sitting around in his garage and neither do I. It looks like we’ll have to go with the Dana44 after all. . . . If we do that then I guess there would be no point getting the parts for the Diamond axle cuz I don’t really plan on taking everything apart again later . . .

As for being prepared for the project, yes I know it seems I didn't prepare properly. But I’ve actually been collecting information and parts for a few months and keeping Aj updated. I left it up to him as far as when to start the work. He said labor day would be a good time to start and we thought we were ready to go since we had the tranny, dual t-cases, the front and rear suspension, all the hardware for the SAS, the steering box, and his buddy had the FJ-80 axle ready to go. . . The problems with the steering and the tranny were simply unforeseen. . . . But it’s not really a big deal. The tranny problem is already solved with that adaptor from Inchworm and I’m sorting out the choice on the axle with all of your help on the forum. . . . Aj is up wheelin the Rubicon at the Marlin round up so I know he’s not worried about it. Hopefully by the time he’s back I will have a set game plan and we can even finish this thing up by next weekend. (That was the time he was hoping to have this done anyways.)

Did I miss where the a340E/F auto has a 3.93 (or 3.39, you have both listed in the above post) to 1 first gear? I was under the impression that it was somewhere in the high 2's, I wanna say like 2.82:1 or something like that. You might want to recheck your figures there.

Oops. Thank you for pointing out that mistake of using 3.39 and 3.93. I fixed it . . .

As for the tranny having 3.93 in first gear, I just assumed that to be the case based on this page on the Marlin Crawler website (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/getratio.htm). But I could certainly be wrong. . . . If 1st gear is really only 2.82, then the crawl ratio with the Marlin Dual Ultimate and 5.29 ring and pinion would be

2.82 x 2.28 x 4.7 x 5.29 = 160:1

I would be very surprised if the crawl ratio is that low. But regardless, I think the point still stands that using 4.88 ring and pinion shouldn't show that much difference on the trail because it would still give a crawl ratio of

2.82 x 2.28 x 4.7 x 4.88 = 138:1

which isn't that far off from 160:1. . . .

Oops. Thank you for pointing out that mistake of using 3.39 and 3.93. I fixed it . . .

As for the tranny having 3.93 in first gear, I just assumed that to be the case based on [COLOR="Cyan"]this page on the Marlin Crawler website (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/getratio.htm).

That page lists first gear ratios for 5-speed manual trannies only. Even with a 2.82 (or whatever it is), keep in mind that your torque converter will effectively multiply that ratio as well.

Revivalist- no i wasnt "forced" to run 4.88's, but this rig is my daily driver and i live in a snowy area where its nice to run 4wd at more than 10 or 15 mph. 5.29 and 5.38 is a big enough diiference that i wouldnt wanna run it at speed. sorry i cant post any pics for you cause i dont have a star, but i'll email ya some.

5.29 and 5.38 are fine. it's within 2% and would only be a problem if you drove on a really high friction surface, in 4wd, really fast, and never turned- but I see you are planning to utilize a steering system :flipoff2: lots of people run those ratios with no issues.

Doesn't Sky's make custom axle housings as well? Maybe another possible option if the Diamond axles are behind schedule?

I've run 5.38/5.29 for many years at low and high speeds in 4wd and haver NEVER had any issues. Its not something to worry about. Its a 1.7% difference. Your tires are probably that much different diameter when new...

That said, 4.88 is probably a better ratio for 37's and highway driving with the 3.4L. 5.29's would be OK too though since the auto has a fairly high overdrive gear compared to the 5spd.

As for the crawl ratio, don't forget that the torque converter acts as a torque doubler as, so it essentially doubles your crawl ratio. My bro in law did fine at the Hammers with a stock auto single case. Dual-auto would be similar to a dual-ultimate manual. Dual-auto-ultimate seems like a waste to me. You probably wouldn't be able to stop it with the brakes w/o putting it in neutral.

D44's- hi-pinion only came in Fords and they are driver's side drop. They can be retubed though.
Low-pinion isn't all that bad though if you turn the knuckles to point the pinion at the t-case, which is something you should probably do no matter what axle you use.

Cool build! keep the pics coming!:cool2:

[QUOTE=SeaBass44]as the saying goes
"THAT IS A HUGE BITCH!"QUOTE]

:laughing:



oh wait:shaking: :shaking: :shaking:

Ok, at this point I just need to make a final choice on the axle. I don't have all the details as far as prices go, but I have a lot. . . .. Please give me your vote anyways. . .


1. FJ-80.
This was the original plan. It's high-pinion, has stronger birfields than a Toyota mini, it can run 5.29s to match the rear, and it's a got a driver's side drop which matches the dual t-cases I have. . . .

(OTT said they would make the steering and arms and send them to Jim at Inchworm to do the machining on the knuckles. The only problem is that it will take 6-8 weeks for that to happen. :shaking: ) . . . The total cost is as follows . . .

Cost breakdown
• Used FJ-80 axle: $1100
• Longfield Chromoly FJ-80 Super Set: $750
• Knuckle Rebuild Kit: $75???
• Wheel Bearing Kits: $40 x 2 = $80???
• 3rd member (with 5.29s and e-locker): $1300
• E-locker Motor Guard: $75
• High-steer kit (tie rod $60, tie-rod ends $40, drag link $60, pitman arm $70, arms $250): $480
• Extended Brake Lines: $50
• Elocker Control Kit: $75
• Differential armor: $70
• Labor to modify housing for e-locker, install gears & locker: ~$400???
• Labor for machined knuckles: $100
• Labor to reroute the exhaust: $60

Total Estimated Cost for FJ-80: $4615

----------------------------------------------------------

2. Dana44 with chromoly shafts.
Aj found someone who is willing to sell a Dana44 with chromoly shafts for $650. I don’t know if it’s high pinion. Also, the diff is on the driver’s side which means I would need to exchange the dual t-case setup for a passenger side. I also have to run 5.38s in the front which don’t match exactly. (But I guess that’s not a big deal.) I would also have to go with a ARB locker . . .

Cost breakdown
• Used Dana44 with chromoly shafts: $650
• Knuckle Rebuild Kit: $75???
• Wheel Bearing Kits: $40 x 2 = $80???
• 5.29 gears: $200
• ARB locker (locker $750, install kit $40, compressor $220): $810
• High-steer kit: ~ $400???
• Extended Brake Lines: $50
• Differential armor: $70
• Labor to service axle: $200
• Labor to install gears and locker: ~ $500
• Hubs:
• Spindles, calipers, brake pads: $300???

Total Estimated Cost for Dana44: $3335

----------------------------------------------------------

3. Custom Diamond axle ready to go.
It’s high pinion, has a passenger side differential (so I don’t need to exchange the t-cases), and is 64” wide which is a bit wider than the rear 61”. . . . This is the axle that I mentioned earlier in the thread that was for $6000. I really didn’t do justice to the amount of parts that went into it. The steering is WAY more beefed up than I realized. (There’s almost $1000 in parts going into it.) Here’s the breakdown.

Cost breakdown
-Diamond Housing $900
-Core Toyota Front Axle $300 (for knuckles, spindles, wheel hubs, locking hubs, etc...)
-Ball Gussets $50
-Longfield Super Set w/Custom Length Inners: $645 + $200 = $845
-3rd member (high pinion, E-locker, 5.29s): $1300
-Elocker Motor Guard: $75
-Tie Rod: $60
-Drag Link (we'll make one to fit your rig): $60
-1 Ton Rod Ends: $135
-D44 Knuckle Studs/Cones: $80
-Knuckles Machined for D44 Studs: $100
-Custom OTT High Steer Arms - Machined for 1Ton Rod Ends and D44 Knuckle Studs+Cone Washers: $280
-Ott Dropped Pitman Arm - Machined for 1Ton End: $150
-ARP Hub Studs: $70
-Longfield Chromo Hub Gears: $70 x 2 = $140
-Knuckle Rebuild Kit: $75
-Wheel Bearing Kits: $40 x 2 = $80
-Brass Spindle Bushings: $36 x 2 = $72
-Loaded IFS Calipers: $119 x 2 = $238
-Vented Rotors: $39 x 2 = $78
-Extended Brake Lines: $50
-Rock Rings: $20
-Elocker Control Kit: $75
-Labor for assembling axle: $200
-Labor for regearing and installing locker: $400

Total: $5833 . . . The seller is willing to let it go for $5400.

----------------------------------------------------------

4. Custom Diamond (made to order)
I can order a Diamond axle that’s basically identical to the one above except the steering won’t be all beefed up. The only problem is that Brian from Diamond Axle said it could take 6-8 weeks to prepare. :shaking:

The cost is $4600 + $400 (shipping) = $5000.

----------------------------------------------------------

5. Look into a custom Dana60
Someone advised me to consider checking out Dana Tack or Courier Enterprises (spelling?) for prices on a custom Dana60 because the cost will probably come out pretty close but the axle will be much stronger. . . .

Well, those are my choices. Let me know what you guys think . . . .I need to make the choice as soon as possible because this weekend I'm going up to Sacramento to get the 2WD to 4WD adaptor from Jim at Inchworm. I'm also going to take in the rear differential to have it regeared to 5.29. So I'd like to make a final decision before I go so we can start to wrap up the project . . .Thanks!

So you can either do the 44 or the built diamond right now, or wait several weeks for one of the other (better) options. Its a bitch not planning ahead isn't it? I like the idea of the fj80 as that is the cleanest (ie most factory-like) option. As I doubt this thing is gonna get flogged on too hard I would use the fj80 that you already have and skip the longs for now. If you break axles in the future you can always upgrade.

The major drawback to the FJ-80 is waiting on the steering arms. . . . Yes, it is a bummer that we didn't know we would have this hang up earlier. . . .

Only the Dana44 and the pre-built Diamon Axle are options that could be done immediately. The other options require waiting on either Diamond Axle or OTT. . .

if you can afford that prebuilt diamond i would go that route... 6-8 weeks is a long time.

The major drawback to the FJ-80 is waiting on the steering arms. . . . Yes, it is a bummer that we didn't know we would have this hang up earlier. . . .

Only the Dana44 and the pre-built Diamon Axle are options that could be done immediately. The other options require waiting on either Diamond Axle or OTT. . .


sky also has an axle, 3 week wait, or so there site says, call them.
at $5400 on that diamond, look into a Pro-Rock D60

Look into the Dana 60 or a 9" if AJ can wait that long.

Hmmm, I'll have to check out what sky has to offer . . .

Tha main thing that's steering me away from the Dana60 (other than the price) is that it's so big and heavy. It wouldn't really matter with a dedicated off-road truck, but since this is also a street truck I wouldn't want to have to lug around the extra weight. . .

Hmmm, I'll have to check out what sky has to offer . . .

Tha main thing that's steering me away from the Dana60 (other than the price) is that it's so big and heavy. It wouldn't really matter with a dedicated off-road truck, but since this is also a street truck I wouldn't want to have to lug around the extra weight. . .


Dude, at any price @ or over 4500, you are into D60 territory. Call Larry at Mad4wd.com, and get a price quote on a Hi pinion D60, or hybrid Ford 9 housing, its well into that territory, and I think youd be better off (I dont know many people that will argue when the costs are equal. Im a big Toyota fan myself, and put incredible stock into Bobby longs axles, but the beauty of Toy stuff is SUPPPOSED to be lower cost, and the fact that most of us already have money tied up in Toy stuff. You wont find anyone willing to put that much money into a Toy 8" from the start. Remeber, the gears and carrier will ALWAYS be the weak point after throwing MASSIVE amounts of money into it. Ive seen, and had buddys break 4.10s in the Toy housings, that pinion shaft is just damn small)

You can get a built 8-lug Ford Dana 60 from WFO Concepts for $3200.

www.wfoconcepts.com

This thread rocks. The guy has never even engaged a t-case, and he's on his way to competition axles. Gotta love it. I bet it gets sold in the first year, though. :shaking:

This thread rocks. The guy has never even engaged a t-case, and he's on his way to competition axles. Gotta love it. I bet it gets sold in the first year, though. :shaking:

I see your point, however, how many of us wish we had started off right, and not wasted the money on other weak shit that eventually breaks??!! (ALL OF US!!) I dont think its a waste if he isnt out any more cash, definitely wont break as much (if at ALL in his application), and if he does sell it, it will be worth SIGNIFICANTLY more with a 60 than Toy stuff, or D44 JUNK (and I mean junk, I wouldnt spend a damn penny on D44 crap)

I see your point, however, how many of us wish we had started off right, and not wasted the money on other weak shit that eventually breaks??!! (ALL OF US!!) I dont think its a waste if he isnt out any more cash, definitely wont break as much (if at ALL in his application), and if he does sell it, it will be worth SIGNIFICANTLY more with a 60 than Toy stuff, or D44 JUNK (and I mean junk, I wouldnt spend a damn penny on D44 crap)


I agree, if he has the bank to go all out:smokin:

We all work within a budget, some have the $$$ & won't spend it, some do, most of us don't:flipoff2:

Good luck on the build, hope it turns out how you want;)

This thread rocks. The guy has never even engaged a t-case, and he's on his way to competition axles. Gotta love it. I bet it gets sold in the first year, though. :shaking:Sold in the first year?!! . . . You gotta be kidding!. . . First of all, this thing is gonna be the exact rig I've wanted. I plan on keeping it until it's used to it's full life. . . . Second of all, I know I could never get back in cash what I put into it. The value is purely in the enjoyment of it. :D

I see your point, however, how many of us wish we had started off right, and not wasted the money on other weak shit that eventually breaks??!! (ALL OF US!!) I dont think its a waste if he isnt out any more cash, definitely wont break as much (if at ALL in his application) . . .That's exactly what I'm thinking. Do it right the first time and avoid switching out stuff later or breaking it on the trail. . . .


Anyhow, I'm still really wrestling with the choice of axle. I haven't had a chance to call around for prices on the custom D60. But I have to be honest that right now I'm still partial to the Toyota Diamond because it's stong and yet it's small and light -- perfect for a daily driver that only hits trails every few months. . . . But the price tag makes me cringe every time I think about it. . . . Man, decisions, decisions. :laughing:

Man, a little weight down low will give you more stablility, at a small cost on the street. I dont think width or wieght down low are penalties on the trail, absolutely the opposite (build the width to what you think you can get away with legally where you live, and push it just a "bit"!!) FYI, They dont weigh all that much when using 1/2 ton brakes, and I keep sayin, Toy stuff is great, but ring and pinions COST to change, and it will downright SUCK if its on the trail, especially when driven there. I am an all out advocate of overbuilding a street driven rig, as we dont have the luxury of pullin it up on a trailer and towing it possibly hundreds of miles home, and fixed at the liesure of time/budget. Just my opinion! If you use Toy stuff, try and keep a budget in mind, and use the diamond housing, ease off on the other crap (high pinion e locker, and gears, use a low pinion used v6 housing, gear it and put a detroit in!! Try and be reasonable). There is another thread here on Spider 9 housings, and one can be had for 400, heck buy Ball joint D60 parts (NOT expensive at all) from Rockdrusher or Dynatrac, have them installed, and go all out on the hi 9 housing, and buy Yukon D60 shafts, and aftermarket 6 lug hubs, dont think youd be more than 4500 that way.(wouldnt wiegh much either)

we just installed allpro's dana 60 front axle on a tacoma coilover conversion
and that thing was bad arse.......pricey but bling with a toyota 3rd member
and ready to ship something you might want to look into

after building my diamond and if I hade it to do over again I would go 60 and be money ahead and be stronger .........

ya ya I know the diamond is strong and I am not saying that but the hole hub deal and stering studs are the 2 worst things on a toy front. just my .02$ but I would go with a 60 if you are going to spend that much money and hell if you want a diamond that bad I have one that is 61.5" wide you can buy. hope this helps

I see your point, however, how many of us wish we had started off right, and not wasted the money on other weak shit that eventually breaks??!! (ALL OF US!!) I dont think its a waste if he isnt out any more cash, definitely wont break as much (if at ALL in his application), and if he does sell it, it will be worth SIGNIFICANTLY more with a 60 than Toy stuff, or D44 JUNK (and I mean junk, I wouldnt spend a damn penny on D44 crap)


I'm not dogging him (sp?). I'd love to see him wheel the crap out of the rig and be happy with it. I guess I'm just relating previous stories I've seen unfold on the past. Only time will tell. Also, I agree about the 60 stuff. No sense in putting in junk you know you're going to swap out later.

Wow, it's kind of fun watching someone else throwing heaps of cash at their rig...just like 4Mogger!

I'm not faulting either of them....the builds are cool....just glad the money isn't mine!!

Shit, I have $5,400 into my entire rig! (Not that it's as beefy as one of these axles, but it's also operable! :flipoff2:)

...D44 JUNK (and I mean junk, I wouldnt spend a damn penny on D44 crap)

That's strange... My D44 "crap" seems to work extremely well and has been very reliable. I broke a few junkyard shafts, but that problem has been solved by Alloy USA.

The rest of the axle has worked FLAWLESSLY for the last 6 years or so, including 6 trips to the Hammers and being jumped numerous times. No bent housings, broken steering studs, hub bolts, trunion bearings, ring and pinions... :confused:

Its not a 60, but I don't think I need a 60 or its higher price and weight or reduced ground clearance.

Calling a D44 junk is obviously not based on any factual information. So I'd say your opinion is far more worthless than any D44 "junk." :rolleyes:

:flipoff2:

That's strange... My D44 "crap" seems to work extremely well and has been very reliable. I broke a few junkyard shafts, but that problem has been solved by Alloy USA.

The rest of the axle has worked FLAWLESSLY for the last 6 years or so, including 6 trips to the Hammers and being jumped numerous times. No bent housings, broken steering studs, hub bolts, trunion bearings, ring and pinions... :confused:

Its not a 60, but I don't think I need a 60 or its higher price and weight or reduced ground clearance.

Calling a D44 junk is obviously not based on any factual information. So I'd say your opinion is far more worthless than any D44 "junk." :rolleyes:

:flipoff2:

I think CRASH had a decent 44 too, till he went 60, don't think he broke the 44, just had to upgrade "because":p

Well, I've been calling around for prices on a custom Dana60 and they seem to be around $6000. Plus, I was told that if I run 5.29s in the rear and 5.38s or 5.13s in the front then I can't use 4WD on pavement or I risk messing up my t-case. :shaking: . . . But I don't want to run matching 4.88s in front and back b/c I know they'll be bogged down with 37-38" tires. . . .

On the other hand I was warned again about the weaker ring and pinion and the knuckle joints on the Toyotas. . . .

I guess I'm learning toward the Diamond again. At least they have the knuckle ball gussets. . . .

Are you planing on going bigger than 37's on this rig. seriously? If not, build a diamond/toyota and upgrade it as parts fail. You get your gearing you want without messing with the rear axle other than gears.

Why not build F/R axles so you can get matched gearing?

FYI (my $0.02) You can buy a stock/junkyard D60 for $1200 maybe less, gear it, lock it, replace some seals, bearings and you'd be bullet proof. Maybe get some 35 spline stubs down the road, but friends ran stock shafts, V8, doublers and 44" TSL's and only broke it when doing doughnuts in a field at 40mph, then he rolled it with me in it. ouch :laughing: He has a few 60's that he got for under 450 each as well. bastard. Take the remaining 2K you saved and build a semi float 35 spline 60 rear and you'd be hard pressed to ever break a thing. Oh and you can even go to 6.17 or 7.17 gears :cool: You can make it 6 lug if you already have your desired wheels, but it's $$ up front for the hubs.

I ran mine on pavement in 4WD with 5.38 fornt and 5.29 rear and 37's and then 40's and it never did any damage other than the 4 cyl not being able to move the 40's. I had a double with 4.0 gears in the rear case. :shrug:

Well, I've been calling around for prices on a custom Dana60 and they seem to be around $6000. Plus, I was told that if I run 5.29s in the rear and 5.38s or 5.13s in the front then I can't use 4WD on pavement or I risk messing up my t-case. :shaking: . . . But I don't want to run matching 4.88s in front and back b/c I know they'll be bogged down with 37-38" tires. . . . .

Fo sho?

Most of us are running 5.29's with tires over 35" because they'd bog down our 22RE motors....the little 2.4l that could. (and we had 4.10's to start with)

Your 3.4 would have a lot less trouble with 37-38's and 4.88's. Your stock axle is probably 3.90's. 4.88/3.90 = 125% increase

5.29/4.10 = 129% increase.

When we move our little 4-bangers up from the stock 29" tire to a 35", it's a 20% increase in diameter.

When you take your prerunner from its stock 31" wheel up to a 38", it's a 123% increase in tire diameter.

You can't use "22RE Conventional Wisdom" with your 3.4L. You have more torque and more hp.

And lots of people run 5.29/5.38 combo. :flipoff2:

5.38/5.29 = 1.7% difference
5.13/5.29 = 3.0% difference

I wouldn't run 5.13's, but feel perfectly comfortable running the 5.38's. The only concern would be straight stretches of dry pavement. Do you plan to run in 4wd for hundreds of miles on the interstate?

If you're driving around locked, you'll have a lot bigger problems on the street/snow/ice/rain than with a slight gear difference in 4wd.

But it's your rig and your money! :flipoff2:

if you want it...i have a 4.27 tundra/ t100 third with a TRD air locker its an 8.4'' ring gear...you could run a tundra/t100 rear with a fj80 front but its your rig

Like I said before (as well as MANY others), 5.29/5.38 is NOT going to hurt anything. I've been doing it for YEARS. My t-case has over 265,000 miles on it, many of those miles in the last 8 years have been hard offroad miles. If there was a problem running 5.29/5.38, it would have shown itself by now.

That said, 4.88's with 37's works out to about "stock" gearing with the 3.4L. In my 3.4L T100 I've got 4.88's and 35/s and the gearing is too low (rpms are high on the freeway). I put the 37's from my 4runner on it once for fun and gearing was just about right. If you want good street gearing, then 4.88's are probably what you want. You could run 5.29's if you wanted and be ok since the auto has a little higher overdrive than my 5spd, but 4.88's are closer to "stock."

Also, in case you haven't thought about it yet- you really should put an aux tranny cooler on your rig as well.

if you want it...i have a 4.27 tundra/ t100 third with a TRD air locker its an 8.4'' ring gear...you could run a tundra/t100 rear with a fj80 front but its your rig

when did they start making TRD AIR LOCKERS?:confused:

Also, in case you haven't thought about it yet- you really should put an aux tranny cooler on your rig as well.
Cooler should be with a switched fan IMO also. Don't forget a tranny temp gauge.

Cooler should be with a switched fan IMO also. Don't forget a tranny temp gauge.

Agreed. On my bro in law's runner we reused the factory A/C fan. and mounted the tranny cooler under it. I don't think the Taco has one though, so it would need to be added. Some fancy coolers come with their own fans even.

Quote from Phil Johnson, who had the first Toyota auto-crawler:
I've been running the dual cases behind the A340F automatic for 3 years now (about 50K miles) and I LOVE it!

The one thing I have found is that I don't use the second case very much. I almost always run the 4.7 gears alone. The second set (2.28) comes into use when I am descending a steep hill or just showing off :D

For a tranny cooler, I have a PermaCool(?) unit with it's own fan and thermostat mounted under the rear body.

Oh yeah, don't forget, PROTECT THE TRANS PAN. I put a skidplate on mine and am glad I did.

Phil

And that was from a 3 year old post, so he's been running it for 6 years now.

I asked around about the tranny fan but it was pointed out to me that since the Dual Ultimate already provides such low gearing, the tranny really shouldn't be struggling on the trail. . . . It was suggested instead that I pick up a power steering cooler since I'll be using a hydro ram assist. . . .

Well, we made a bit more progress on the project this weekend. We took a trip over to Inchworm to meet Jim and pick up the 2WD to 4WD adaptor along with a few other parts . . . . I also decided to pick up that custom Diamond axle after all. Basically, my choices came down to this . . .

After calling about 7 custom axle shops it turns out that a complete custom Dana60 front end would run about $7000 with everything needed from hub to hub. That was obviously way over the budget.. . . . The next choice was a custom 9”. However, it turns out that a high pinion 9” only comes in 4.88 gears. I could get a low pinion 9” with 5.29s but I was told that a low pinion 9” is really, really low. So I wasn’t very happy with that choice either. Plus all the custom stuff seems to have a 4-6 week turn around time which is longer than we want to wait to finish this project. . . Lastly, I could have gone with a rebuilt Dana44, but the high pinions are pretty rare and would also require a bolt pattern conversion. . . .

So I finally broke down and decided to go with the custom Diamond axle that was ready to go with a high pinion diff, 5.29s, e-locker, and just about every upgrade possible including knuckle ball gussets, Longfield Super Set with custom inners, Longfield chromo hub gears, ARP hub studs, and a super beefed up high steer with custom OTT arms. . . . Plus, it was the width I needed (64”), it has the diff on the passenger side to match my Crawler, and it was only 15 minutes away from AJ’s shop which means no wait-time and no shipping. . . .So I went for it. . . . Here’s some pics of the steering arm and pitman arm. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay1.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay2.jpg

Talk about some beef on those things! . . .

One other nice feature was the way Jim eliminated the need for one of the passenger side U-bolts by welding nuts straight to the axle and using regular bolts. You can see it in this pic . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay4.jpg

It turns out that the U-bolt that would normally go there won’t really sit right, so this bypassed that problem. It also made it possible to use the usual spring hanger that comes with the Toyota mini SAS kit. No need for AJ to fab up a wider one for my Tacoma. . . .

Here’s AJ and Jim pulling it off Jim’s rig and putting it on the lift. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay10.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay15.jpg

While we were there, I also picked up a chromo output shaft for the t-cases to help avoid any breakage on the trail which could leave me with only FWD or no power at all. It seemed like a worthwhile upgrade. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay16.jpg

The 2WD to 4WD adaptor is actually only the second to be sold thus far. It basically consisted of two pieces . . . a replacement tail housing for the tranny and an adaptor that can be a clocked to 10 degrees. Here’s AJ installing it . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay23.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay30.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-2ndDay31.jpg


So that was about it for today. There’s quite a bit more work that needs to be done but Aj plans on working on it through the week so unfortunately I won’t be there to keep taking progress pics. But it’ll hopefully be done by next weekend and I’ll take pics of the end result. . . .

In the meantime, I’m trying to choose some tires to order up so we can put them on and check for any rubbing before I take it. I’d like to run 38” mud terrains. My current rims are 16x8 but I’m willing to sell them and pick up new ones if needed. . . .

Can anyone offer some suggestions concerning tires? . . . Thanks!

I would get away from 16" rims while you can. Options are limited and they're expensive. I would switch to either 17's or 15's. 17's aren't necessarily cheaper than 16's, but there are a lot more choices when you decided to upgrade/switch tires in the future.

Also, what are your uses? 95% DD, 5% offroad? What kind of offroad? Sand, mud, rocks, dirt? All of these will factor in.

when did they start making TRD AIR LOCKERS?:confused:


hell if i know the guy i bought it from said it was a TRD air locker and when i got home i put a valve stem on the air line and put some air in it and it works really good...i gave $175 for it so i couldnt pass it up

it looks nothing like an ARB...it has a locking ring around the side where the ring gear is and when air is put to it it locks

Sounds like you're well on your way now. Jim should be stoked I told you to call him, LOL (and so should you it sounds like).

Seems like you wanted it to be good on the street, so stick with radials. I love my 37" MTR's (available for 15 or 17" wheels, but the 17's are more expensive). I think Toyo makes some 38's, but I have no experience with them. America's tire sells a great road hazard waranty too. :D

I would get away from 16" rims while you can. Options are limited and they're expensive. I would switch to either 17's or 15's. 17's aren't necessarily cheaper than 16's, but there are a lot more choices when you decided to upgrade/switch tires in the future.

Also, what are your uses? 95% DD, 5% offroad? What kind of offroad? Sand, mud, rocks, dirt? All of these will factor in.Yeah, I was thinking that I'm going to have to get new rims. It's kind of a shame b/c I got these rims only a few months ago. I choses 16"s because that's what the stock rims were and I didn't see any reason to change sizes. . . . I guess I'll have to try to sell these. . . .

As for my tires use, it will probably be 80% road use, 15% rock crawling, and 5% others (such as sand, mud, and snow) . . .

I think I would like something that has a sharp sidewall like the BFG MTs or Goodyear MTs. . . .

Sounds like you're well on your way now. Jim should be stoked I told you to call him, LOL (and so should you it sounds like).

Seems like you wanted it to be good on the street, so stick with radials. I love my 37" MTR's (available for 15 or 17" wheels, but the 17's are more expensive). I think Toyo makes some 38's, but I have no experience with them. America's tire sells a great road hazard waranty too. :DYes, thank you for the tip. You saved me the headache of searching for another tranny. . . . I mentioned you to Jim, by the way. . .

As for tires, it looks like I have to switch to 15" rims. Will this be any kind of an issue with my truck? . . . I was told before to watch out about 15" rims rubbing on the calipers, but I guess that would be with the old IFS, not the Toyota mini axle that I'm running now, right?

For your uses it sounds like the MTR would be a good tire. The BFG's have a somewhat weak sidewall that is prone to punctures. The MTRs suck in really soupy mud, but you're in CA so that shouldn't really be an issue.

I'll second the sucky BFG sidewalls. I've had MUCH better luck since switching to MTR's.

OOP's on here went through 22 BFG's at America's tire before switching to Goodyears. They told him he couldn't have any more warantys though. :D

Wow!! . . . It sounds like MTRs are a winner than. . . .

So far I'm thinking about going with Discount Tire (American Tire) (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?rcz=95630&rc=CNFINT&c=1&cf=false&cs=37&pc=31207&rd=15&ar=1250&ct=&rf=true). . . But they don't have any rims that I like. . . . I'm thinking about picking up the ProComps 1079 polished allow wheels (http://www.procomptires.com/series1079.htm) from a local shop here. What do you guys think about 3.75" backspacing. . . . Keep in mind that the rear axle is 60" and the front is 64". (I'll probably run spacers in the rear.)

Wow!! . . . It sounds like MTRs are a winner than. . . .

So far I'm thinking about going with Discount Tire (American Tire) (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?rcz=95630&rc=CNFINT&c=1&cf=false&cs=37&pc=31207&rd=15&ar=1250&ct=&rf=true). . . But they don't have any rims that I like. . . . I'm thinking about picking up the ProComps 1079 polished allow wheels (http://www.procomptires.com/series1079.htm) from a local shop here. What do you guys think about 3.75" backspacing. . . . Keep in mind that the rear axle is 60" and the front is 64". (I'll probably run spacers in the rear.)

keep the skinnier rear, youll appreciate it on the trail. i run 63'' front and 59'' rear diamond axles with 17x9'' wheels with 3.5'' backspacing. i think i was at marlins shop the same day as you? i was getting some shackles and frame jigs....



youre making me wanna cut up my 02 taco, i wanna see what you do about the exhaust, etc with the passenger drop axle :D

Definately keep the rear the way it is. I ran 63" wide in the front and 60" wide in the rear on a cherokee w/ a wheelbase of 103" and it turned beautifully, never got hung up on the rear end. W/ your longer wheelbase I would definately not add spacers.

keep the skinnier rear, youll appreciate it on the trail. i run 63'' front and 59'' rear diamond axles with 17x9'' wheels with 3.5'' backspacing. i think i was at marlins shop the same day as you? i was getting some shackles and frame jigs....

youre making me wanna cut up my 02 taco, i wanna see what you do about the exhaust, etc with the passenger drop axle :DYup, that was me . . . I think we were talking about what it's like to go wheelin in the backseat of an extra cab. :D . . . If you cut it up, maybe you can convert it to a d-cab. :smokin: . . . I've seen it done but it's a lot of work. . .

Anyhow, please explain a little more how the skinnier rear helps on the trail. I figured that if the front end could make it through a tight spot then the rear will also. Is it a possible issue when turning through a tight spot? . . . I admit that I was planning to run spacers simply so it would look more symmetrical but I can pass on it if it's going to hinder the performance off-road . . .

As for the exhaust, AJ has a buddy who works for Midas that can bend it for reasonably cheap. Basically it's just the piping to the second cat that needs to be bent away from rear t-case output. . . .I'll post pics later. . . .

By the way, that of course could be avoided by getting an axle with a driver's side diff and then using the Dual Ultimate with a Taco box instead of the gear box in order to get a driver's side drop. That would avoid the exhaust completely. . . I got the passenger side drop dual case b/c I thought I would be running the FJ-80. But that's ok, that Diamond just happened to be passenger side anways . . .

Yes, the rear axle width becomes an issue when turning. Think about turning into a tight spot. If your rear axle is really wide, you'll hit whatever is next to you, even though your front cleared it. If you have a narrower rear end, you don't have to swing the front end as wide to clear stuff in the rear.

Ary

Yes, the rear axle width becomes an issue when turning. Think about turning into a tight spot. If your rear axle is really wide, you'll hit whatever is next to you, even though your front cleared it. If you have a narrower rear end, you don't have to swing the front end as wide to clear stuff in the rear.

AryYeah, I can see how it would be better to have the narrower rear axle . . . . But I guess I like the idea of the front and rear being symmetrical. :) . . . The only thing is that I don't want to put more stress on the axle with the extra leverage the spacers causes.

I asked around about the tranny fan but it was pointed out to me that since the Dual Ultimate already provides such low gearing, the tranny really shouldn't be struggling on the trail. . . . It was suggested instead that I pick up a power steering cooler since I'll be using a hydro ram assist. . . .


Its not the trail that gonna heat it up, autos run real cool on the trail if geared well, but on road you are going to have lots more wind resistance which means more heat build up in the trans.

Yes, thank you for the tip.... I mentioned you to Jim, by the way. . .

I talked to him today and he said my commission check is "already in the mail!" :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

He's a good guy and builds some amazing stuff. He just keeps a lower profile than some of the other vendors.

Last week was the first time I'd ever actually visited his shop. He was telling me how the guy with the '06 Taco came in for a dual case setup but when they tore it down they found out Toyota changed the t-case bolt pattern........................................
So he asked the customer if he could keep the truck for a week or two, fired up the CNC and built him a brand new adapter! :eek: :grinpimp:

Yeah, I can see how it would be better to have the narrower rear axle . . . . But I guess I like the idea of the front and rear being symmetrical. :) . . . The only thing is that I don't want to put more stress on the axle with the extra leverage the spacers causes.

If you look really close, you will notice that very few vehicles have the same width front to rear.

I would hold off on the spacers and see if the width difference really bothers you visually. If you don't like it, you can always pay the $75 and spend the 20 mins to put them on.

@ 82FB – Yes, ErikB and Bones brought up this issue of a tranny cooler a little earlier in the thread. I talked to AJ and Jim (Inchworm) about it and they didn’t think it was necessary. They figured that since I already have such low gearing in the dual t-cases then the tranny wouldn’t be straining on the trail. . . . As for the street, do you think that wind resistance would really put that much extra strain on the tranny? . . . .

Well, let’s say I just play it safe and install one . . . which model would you guys recommend? . . . Can it be found somewhere local (like 4WheelParts) so that I can pick it up immediately and bring it with me to AJ’s? . . . And along those lines, AJ suggested that I pick up a power steering cooler since I will be running a ram assist. . . . Is there a cooler that you guys recommend and can be picked up at somewhere local as well? . . . .


@ ErickB – I’m really thankful for you referring me to Jim for that adaptor. You seriously saved me a lot of headache hunting around for another tranny and also a lot of money (It came out about $600 cheaper!) . . . I guess I owe you a commission check too! . . . .


@ Arya Ebrahimi – That’s a good idea. I’ll see how it looks first. . .


By the way, can anyone recommend rims that I could use. . . . I wanted to go with these ProComps 1079 polished allow wheels (http://www.procomptires.com/series1079.htm) in 15”x10” but America's Tires said that they called Pro Comp and found out that there will be a clearance issue with my calipers. . . . I wonder if maybe they’re talking about on a stock Tacoma wheel which could be different from the Diamond Toyota pick up axle that I’m running. . . . . I know there are lots of guys using 15” rims. Is there something about the backspacing that I need to watch out for? . . . .

Thanks for all the help, guys!

You definitely want to run a tranny cooler. It should be considered a must-do for any auto; heat is the worst enemy of an auto. It's cheap insurance.

As for wheels, you're going to have to go 16's or 17's...

You definitely want to run a tranny cooler. It should be considered a must-do for any auto; heat is the worst enemy of an auto. It's cheap insurance.

As for wheels, you're going to have to go 16's or 17's...
Ok, so what tranny cooler would work best for my application? . . .

For wheels . . . is there a reason that 15"s won't work? . . . I'm already running 16"x8"s but I can't find any good 37" tires that will fit on it. They all seem to be in 15"s or 17"s . . . I figured I would go with 15" because tires that run on them are cheaper and because I would rather increase the tire sidewall than the rim diameter. . .

I'm pretty sure that they should fit because the front axle is like a '85 Toyota now, and the rear drums don't require 16" rims.

The bottom line on the tranny is that heat is your AT's worst enemy (as mentioned) and you will be working it harder than when you were stock. You can get aux tranny coolers at about any auto parts store. I think the "stacked plate" type are supposed to be better than the other types. Yotatech actually has some decent threads on aux tranny coolers
http://yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=86774&highlight=aux+cooler
That said, its not like its going to die immediately if you don't put one in right away.

I've been running ram assist w/o a cooler for a few years with no problems. I do run synthetic fluid, FWIW.

As for wheels, tell them you have an '85 pickup. Those you asked about will fit fine (I think Brian is confused). That's part of owning a modified rig- learning what to tell the parts monkeys you have so you end up with the rights parts. :D
You'll have to tell them its another rig when you order brake parts too. Get the specifics from Jim- you probably have Fj-40 rotors and some early '90's calipers.

As for wheels, tell them you have an '85 pickup. Those you asked about will fit fine (I think Brian is confused).

Yup - you're correct, Erik. I spaced the SAS part. :D :D

Ok, I ordered up this temp sensor (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=BLY-30300&N=700%200&Ntt=ATM-3357%20or%20BLY-30300%20or%20ATM-3649%20or%20ATM-6149&Ntk=KeywordSearch&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|0) for the tranny. (Is 240 really the highest reasonable temperature before getting worried as that gauge seems to imply with the green zone and red zone?) . . . So I'll watch and see if the tranny gets too hot and then I'll pick up a cooler if it does. . . . By the way, are you guys keeping in mind that the tranny already has a stock cooler as well? . . .

For the power steering, I figure I'll just be safe and go with AJ's recommendation. He recommends this cooler (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D41200&N=700+0&autoview=sku). . . .

I also ordered the tires and wheels. Hopefully they'll have them by this weekend and I should be rolling on 37"s! :D . . . .

By the way, anyone know where I could get a cheap 35" tire for a 16" rim to put under the bed for a spare? . . . We're planning to move the spare tire mount over a little bit and that should give enough room for a 35" tire. . . .

Do some research on hydro- you will probably find that a -6 (3/8") is the minimum recommended size for that line (usually -4 pressure, -6 return, -10 reservoir to pump). If its too restrictive, it may cause more problems than it solves.

240 is time to shut it down and let it cool off. I would like to see it run under 200 consistently, for best life. I remember reading an article a few years back that had life expectancies for autos based on temp, and I think 180 was ideal, and anything above that, your fluid started to break down faster which leads to dead trannies. My brothers 700r4 pushing 1tons and 40's will get up close to 240 going up long passes even with the biggest stacked plate cooler he could find, but on flat it keeps it well below 200.

and yes, the added wind resistance from the lift and big tires is like you are towing a trailer the whole time, and if you were gonna tow, you'd certainly add a cooler. They are cheap and easy to install.

Ok, so what tranny cooler would work best for my application? . . .

For wheels . . . is there a reason that 15"s won't work? . . . I'm already running 16"x8"s but I can't find any good 37" tires that will fit on it. They all seem to be in 15"s or 17"s . . . I figured I would go with 15" because tires that run on them are cheaper and because I would rather increase the tire sidewall than the rim diameter. . .

I'm pretty sure that they should fit because the front axle is like a '85 Toyota now, and the rear drums don't require 16" rims.

guess your idea of good and mine are different:laughing:

I have 16" rims and have 37x14x16 iroks just about any swamper is in 16, it ain't a real tire if you can get it in white letters:flipoff2:

@ ErikB - Hmmm. . . That doesn't sound good. . .. I'll have to see about possibly going with something that has a bigger hose. . . Thanks for the heads up.:)

@ 82FB - Ok, so I guess that gauge has a good range for the "green zone" versus "red zone" on it. . . That should make it easy to glance at it and make sure the temps are ok. . . . By the way, that's interesting info about wind drag and bigger tires. I didn't realize the extra load I'd be putting on the tranny. . . . I'm glad I was able to keep mine that only has 17k miles on it. :)

@ SeaBass44 - Don't get me wrong. Swampers are great. I was going to go with some Iroks at first. But then I starting hearing from other guys and reading online that they wear kind of fast on the street because they are so soft and designed for wrapping around rocks. . . . So I decided to go with the MTRs that are hopefully a little bit better for the street. . . .

Are you planning on selling off any of your old parts? I just saw in your sig that you have 33" Xterrains... :D

Are you planning on selling off any of your old parts? I just saw in your sig that you have 33" Xterrains... :DYup. . . . I figured I would just sell the tires with the rims (so the mounting and balancing wouldn't be wasted). . . . I paid $500 for the rims and $630 for the tires (with stems and balanced). . . . That was about 2 months ago. I only put about 1500 miles on them. . . .

What do you think about $950 for the whole set? Let me know.

cool tread and great progress. I had a taco and ened up selling for my cruiser. This thread makes me wish I still had the tacoma.

keep going :cool2:

mike

What kind of wheels are they? I probably wouldn't need the wheels so let me know if you decide to split them up. Also, I probably wouldn't need them for a few weeks until my lift project is finished so I better get in contact with you then to see if you've still got them. Can't wait to see the finished project!

Thanks for the encouragement guys. . . .

If you would like to know more about the rims, check out this link: http://www.procomptires.com/series1023.htm. The part number is 1023-6883.

Those wheels are exactly what I need too. :flipoff2: I'll get in touch with you when I can afford it.

Those wheels are exactly what I need too. :flipoff2: I'll get in touch with you when I can afford it.Sounds good . . . Just don't wait too long cuz I'm trying to sell my stuff as soon as possible. . .

Alright, the truck is just about done. Much of the work was finished up last week. Aj installed the Marlin Crawler unto the new 2WD-->4WD adaptor. He also modified the dual T-case crossmember (made for 85 pickups) so it would extend across the wider frame of the Tacoma. Very cool fab work. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay2.jpg


The shackle hangers for the rear axle were also welded up in place. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay6.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay10.jpg


I asked AJ if he could also weld up some differential armor for the rear and it turned out great. He was able to relocate the brake line bracket to make room for the armor. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay11.jpg


The transmission, 2WD-->4WD adaptor, and dual T-cases made for a pretty long drive train so using two rear shafts with a carrier would have caused the rear shaft to have a very steep angle. . . Instead, it turned out better to go with a single rear drive shaft from the T-case to the rear differential . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay15.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay18.jpg


The front spring hanger was also welded up and the axle was tested fitted. AJ also prepped up a steering box mount since the usual mount for an 85 pickup is too big. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay22.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay25.jpg

The steering box and shaft were mounted, the shackle hangers were welded in place, and the shackles were bolted on. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay28.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay29.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay31.jpg


The wheels were test fitted and approved! (I went with the 37” Goodyear MTRs on ProComp 15”s.) . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay37.jpg


Next came the shock hoops that were set in place with an old shock used for a mock setup. After that came the Bilstein 5150s . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay41.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay42.jpg


The front drive shaft was put in with a nice long yoke that was at least 10” or longer . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay44.jpg


We also installed a power steering cooler that I picked up from Summit since I would be using a ram for hydro-assisted steering. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay47.jpg


With the tires all in place we lifted here up to install the ram with the hoses and bracket. AJ fabbed up a nice mount for the ram to fit on the Diamond axle. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay49.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay50.jpg

Next the rear shock mounts and shocks were also installed. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay56.jpg


AJ also relocated the spare tire bracket so that I would be able to fit a 35” tire under there as a spare instead of the usual 31”. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay60.jpg


By this time it was already getting late and no muffler shops would be open. So a little home-made exhaust rerouting was pieced together with some elbows picked up from Pep Boys. Not the prettiest setup, but good enough to get me home. . . . Man is that thing LOUD!! . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay61.jpg


AJ also welded in a bung for me on the exhaust line just before the first cat so I can attach the O2 sensor of my LM1 and tune the air-fuel ratio. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay65.jpg


At first it seemed that the shifters weren’t even close to matching up with my console. . . . But after some test drilling, it actually turned out perfect. We cut out a chunk of the console and made room for the Marlin crawler shifter and the twin stick . . . It came out great! . . . . I’ll just have to drop by a custom upholstery shop later and have them clean it up with some plastic and carpet. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay73.jpg


The locker switch and indicator light came out nice as well. There’s just a small issue with the fuse not fitting right so the locker is not operable yet. But that should be a minor fix . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay77.jpg


AJ was also kind enough to take care of a little issue I had with the intake. . . . The Volant air box has a nice big intake but the stock hole in the fender is much smaller. So he cut a hole in the fender that matches the Volant and put a nice seal around it to keep out the hot engine air. Beautiful solution. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/S3600001-1.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay82.jpg


There was only one major hitch -- we had a pretty bad leak came from between the transmission and the 2WD-->4WD adaptor. But AJ took care of it with some heavy duty sealant. (They call it “hockey puck” because it’s as hard as a hockey puck when it dries) . . .

So with the truck packed up I hit the road . . . Here’s a pic with all the old parts and wheels in the back. . . . Kind of a hard way to break in the new springs!. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay86.jpg


I must say that I’m definitely glad that I went for 5.29 r&p gears rather than 4.88s. Already I can feel that the truck is bogged down much more than before. With 4.88s I imagine it would be worse. . . . Here’s a pic of the front. At 64” the front axle is definitely wider than the rear (which is 60.75”.) . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay91.jpg

After I got home I parked the truck in the garage and unloaded it. . . . Then later I discovered that with the weight of all that stuff I couldn’t get it back out of the garage! . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay93.jpg


So I had to air down the tires, put the wheels back on the bed, and pull the garage release so I could push the door up an inch higher. . . . I baaaarely made it back out again. Hopefully when the springs settle then I’ll be able to fit without problems. . . . Here’s one more pic with me standing by it for reference. I’m about 5’8” . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay107.jpg


The followingare the remaing tasks that need to be taken care of:

• Shift out of 4WD. For some reason we couldn’t shift to 2WD. So AJ just removed the front drive shaft so that I can drive home. Hopefully Marlin will be able to help out with that.

• Get the twin sticks to shift smoothly. For some reason they are very stiff and sometimes won’t shift at all. I don’t know if it’s because they’re new or something needs to be adjusted.

• Fix the fuse for the front locker and indicator light.

• Fix a minor leak that still continues from the t-cases.

• Have the exhaust redone.

• Have the center console cleaned up.

• Trim the fenders. We tested the truck on a loading dock ramp and found that it was slightly rubbing the rear fender flare and the front bumper. And I don’t think the truck was even flexed to its max like it will be on the trail. So I think I’ll wait for the springs to settle before figuring out how much to trim. Otherwise we may not trim enough.

• Lower the lift. Right now the truck sits at a height of 6’10” with the 6” suspension lift and 3” body lift. It has A LOT of body roll going around corners. I would like to lose the body lift but there’s no way I would clear the tires. So hopefully after enough trimming, I might be able to at least reduce the body lift by 2” or so. . .

• Install air bumps. AJ suggested installing some air bumps instead of bump stops for a better ride. I was looking at these (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=343). I was thinking the Fox 2.0” air bumps with a 4” stroke (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=63&cat=343&page=1) and the chromoly 2.0 Fox air bump can (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=772&cat=344&page=1). Sound good? Also, do I need this hardware (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=703&cat=343&page=)? And lastly, is polyperformance the best place to get them or is there a cheaper place?

• Install tranny gauge. It turned out that the tranny gauge I bought is not an inline gauge. So I have to order up an inline sensor and then install it with the gauge. I'm not sure what part I need exactly. Any hints would be appreciated. . .

• Bumpers and tubes. I’m thinking about eventually installing a bentup bumper (probably front and back) and some tubes around the rear panels.

nice:smokin:

• Install air bumps. AJ suggested installing some air bumps instead of bump stops for a better ride. I was looking at these (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=343). I was thinking the Fox 2.0” air bumps with a 4” stroke (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=63&cat=343&page=1) and the chromoly 2.0 Fox air bump can (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=772&cat=344&page=1). Sound good? Also, do I need this hardware (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=703&cat=343&page=)? And lastly, is polyperformance the best place to get them or is there a cheaper place?


yes...pig and the polyperformance crew are prolly some of the best in the business. yea you could prolly go somewhere else. but why would ya when the customer service you get is friggin awesome and the extensive knowledge they hand out when ya purchase from em is off the charts?

drop yer $$$ there and you wont be sorry.

Since you are planning to get a bentup bumper anyway, do it now, so you don't have to cut up that nice stocker. Also, you will be able to drop the ride height more with the aftermarket bumper.

That turned out awesome. Congratulations on a nicely built truck.

don't you guys ever think that marlin looks like robert shaw (quint) from jaws....?

Thanks guys! . . .

Ok, sounds poly performance is the way to go. . .

That's a good idea about waiting to get the bentup bumpers before cutting the stock ones. I was thinking I would do that so that at least I can sell the stock ones at a good price. . . .

Which guy is Quint from Jaws?

Truck turned out real nice. Hope you enjoy it.

I am happy to see an adapter to make our tranny's adaptable to make it 4WD if I ever thought of chopping up my truck. I can't imagine it though :laughing:

Curious since this will be a driver what you get for mpg now compared to before. I get 19 with an occational 21 if I am lucky. Not bad for a V6 auto. :shrug:

Which guy is Quint from Jaws?
i'm not sure what robert shaw looking like marlin has to do with this thread, but come on jaws is a classic.....he is the one on the left holding the fishing pole.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the gas mileage will take a hit. But that's ok, it still worth it. :) . . .

Well, I'd rather not compare Marlin to Quint, cuz if I remember correctly, Quint is the only one who doesn't make out alive. . . . He gets chomped right in half. :shaking:

nice! :smokin:

• Lower the lift. Right now the truck sits at a height of 6’10” with the 6” suspension lift and 3” body lift. It has A LOT of body roll going around corners. I would like to lose the body lift but there’s no way I would clear the tires. So hopefully after enough trimming, I might be able to at least reduce the body lift by 2” or so. . .


We warned ya... "That's a HUGE BITCH!" :D

Remove the BL ASAP before you start building more stuff around it (like bumpers, sliders, etc). Looks like you might already have to do some mods to remove it. The tranny looks pretty close to the body and your rear upper shock mount crossbar may be in the way too. After all these mods, some minor fender and/or firewall work to get the tires to fit with a more moderate lift should be no big deal.

Aside from its height, the rig looks GREAT! :grinpimp:

Which guy is Quint from Jaws?


the one that looks like Marlin.




:p



left side.

edit: i guess i was a little late on that one....

Well I got to have a little fun on the forklift yesterday. . . . We got the front tire up 34” before one of the rear tires lifted . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires11.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires12.jpg


Looking underneath, we could see that the front shackle was practically maxing out. It seems that it’s because of a bad angle to begin with. AJ mentioned that some boomer rang shackles would work fine to solve that problem. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires13.jpg


The springs were also flattening out since we didn’t put bump stop extenders yet. It’s clear that we’ll need longer bump stop extensions than the usual ones that come with IFS Eliminator kits. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires19.jpg


There was also considerable rubbing for the front , as I expected there would be. . . I’m thinking of swapping out the front and rear bumpers for custom steel bumpers by AJ. That will solve the rubbing on the front bumper and provide much better protection. We’ll have to also cut out the back of the front wheelwell and maybe pound the firewall to take care of the rest of the rubbing in the front. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires15.jpg


As for the rear, there was rubbing there as well . . .We’ll have to cut off a good portion of the bottom of the bed and then AJ’s custom bumper can swing around and give better protection there as well. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires14.jpg


Here’s the truck flexed from the rear . . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires17.jpg


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/04-Modified%20truck/02-SAS%20and%209in%20Lift/SAS9inchliftand37intires18.jpg


We’re also planning on dropping the body lift to 1.5”. That way the rear cross member holding up the shocks can remain and provide support under the bed. I don’t think I want to remove the body lift completely cuz that would require WAY too much cutting. . . .

Shackles will be fine once you add the bumpstops...

Also, consider (if you can) moving the axle forward a tad more and adding additional bracing to the shackle hangers.

Other than that, looking very nice!

Shackles will be fine once you add the bumpstops...

Also, consider (if you can) moving the axle forward a tad more and adding additional bracing to the shackle hangers.

Other than that, looking very nice!Thanks for the suggestions. . .

Did you notice the front shackle angle in the earlier pics with the truck just level. It's still pretty low and we were concerned that when the springs settle it's only going to get worse. . .

AJ said that the axle was actually moved up as far as possible. If I remember correctly, the placement of the steering box and the steering shaft angle are the limitations. . . .

Looking underneath, we could see that the front shackle was practically maxing out. It seems that it’s because of a bad angle to begin with. AJ mentioned that some boomer rang shackles would work fine to solve that problem. . . .



I agree that the shackles are too steep at stuff. They will be flattening against the frame as things loosen up and the bushings wear.

I'm not sure why he suggested "boomerang" though. You just need shackles that are about 1/2" longer eye to eye than what you've got and you will be fine. The boomerang style is to clear the body mount on earlier Toys with shackles through the frame, but you don't have that clearance issue.


It will flex even better when there is more weight in the bed and when the springs get settled in more too. :cool2:

Edit- looks like your t-cases are still leaking?

Ok, so do you think going with the 6" shackles instead of the 5" shackles from Trail Gear would do the trick? . . . But the problem is that the front will be riding higher than the rear in that case. . . . .

You could run a shorter/flatter pitman arm from Sky or FRORF which might allow you to move the axle forward an inch or so, but I'm just speculating since I haven't seen it in person...

Thanks guys! . . .

Ok, sounds poly performance is the way to go. . .

That's a good idea about waiting to get the bentup bumpers before cutting the stock ones. I was thinking I would do that so that at least I can sell the stock ones at a good price. . . .

Which guy is Quint from Jaws?
see posted pic, quint is the one on the left......that looks like marlin:flipoff2:

oops.... i am way late on this as well....

that rig looks clean, i like the diamond axle. very cool

Ok, so do you think going with the 6" shackles instead of the 5" shackles from Trail Gear would do the trick? . . . But the problem is that the front will be riding higher than the rear in that case. . . . .

To minimize unwanted extra lift, don't make them any longer than they have to be. Just take some 3/8"x2" flat bar, cut it up and drill some holes. Cheap and easy. 1/2" longer shackles will only lift you a little less than 1/4" but will be plenty long enough to keep the shackle from flopping back.

@ rockota - The pitman arm was actually custom made super-beefy by OTT. It would be sort of a shame to cut it up. And I don't know how much further we would be able to move the axle that way. . .

@ ErikB - Ok, well at least it sounds like an easy fix. The guys at Trail Gear were suggesting that it might be best to relocate the shackle mount a little further back. I was hoping I wouldn't have to bother AJ with that extra work. . . . I just don't want to have issues later with that shackle angle or end up making the front higher. . . We were stoked when we saw the truck come out level on the first try. . . .

I agree that moving the shackle hanger back would be a better option and I would have suggested that, but I see that there's not a whole lot of room left on rearward side of the inboarded mount that AJ built. Making some new shackle plates is a quick/easy fix.

I also agree that moving the axle further forward would be desirable, but that will likely require moving the steering box further forward which is a lot of work. You may have to decide between doing that or doing more fender/firewall work though, or a little of both.

Don't sweat it though. A big, custom project like this rarely comes out perfect on the first try. Its turned out pretty well so far.

So what advantage is there exactly between moving the mount back versus putting in a longer shackle? . . . I would like to do whatever is going to work best. . . .

The steering is as far forward as it can possibly go. The radiator fan prevents it from going any further. . . . So I guess the rest of the clearance is going to have to come from doing work on the firewall. . . .

The only advantage to moving the mount instead of a longer shackle is that there won't be any more lift and shorter shackles will have less movement/loosenes than longer ones. In your case the difference isn't going to be enough to be noticable.

I'm going to go off on a limb here and say that you should run it, wheel it, break the springs in and see what the shackle does. From what it looks like in the pictures, your springs are flat, which means they won't be getting any longer. Your shackle angle looks fine at full stuff, just wheel it and see if they lay against the frame. If not, then you are good to go. If they do lay against the frame, well, have some new shackles ready to put on :laughing: :flipoff2:

I'm going to go off on a limb here and say that you should run it, wheel it, break the springs in and see what the shackle does. From what it looks like in the pictures, your springs are flat, which means they won't be getting any longer. Your shackle angle looks fine at full stuff, just wheel it and see if they lay against the frame. If not, then you are good to go. If they do lay against the frame, well, have some new shackles ready to put on :laughing: :flipoff2:

Exactly, I just got a chance to catch up on this thread and I can't see any reason to move the shackle hanger back. that just seems like alot of work than could just be accomplished by a longer shackle.

The truck came out level right after the SAS BUT, you're springs haven't had a chance to settle. I doubt all four springs are going to settle the same.

Wheel it. If it bottoms out the shackle get a longer shackle. It's not going to lift it more than a 1/2" to an 1" depending on how much longer you go (1" or 2").

Just my .02.

WOW!!:eek: Nice rig. I wish there was more CLEAN rigs on Pbb, everyone seems to want there shiattt all dented up...

Ok, thanks for the advise guys. . . .

At least that saves the headache of having to move the mount. Last I talked to AJ he still had in mind to just change the shackes for some boomerangs so they have a better angle when the truck is sitting and they still won't flatten out against the frame. . . . But we still need to flex it out and see how the bumpstops affect things just as you guys mentioned. . . . It was actually suggested to me that the lower shackle angle is good because it allows more droop. . . .

Aside from that, there's basically three things left to sort out . . .

1. What bumptstops and bumpstop extenders to use. The ones from Trail Gear aren't going to be long enough. Do you guys recommend getting better ones from somewhere?

2. How much of the body lift can be removed. I'm planning to get AJ's custom front and rear bumpers while the truck is at his shop. The front bumper looks something like this . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/Frontsolidbumperwithwinch.jpg

The only difference is that I would like one that has a nice grill guard like this AllPro bumper. . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/AllProfrontbumperdosamegrillgaurd.jpg

So that should take care of the rubbing in the very front, but I don't know if the firewall can be modified enough. From the pics I posted earlier on the forklift you can see it's already rubbing pretty bad with the 3" body lift. I guess the question is can 3.5-4" of clearance be gained by modding the firewall?? . . . I'm guessing probably not which means staying with at least a 1.5-2" body lift. . . .

In the rear I think that cutting the lower bed and putting a wrap around bumper should take care of the rubbing back there. . . . The bumper will look something like this . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/Rearwraparoundbumper.jpg

The only difference is that AJ will weld on a swing-out spare tire mount so I can mount a 37" tire back there. . . .

3. What winch would you recommended? I figure I might as well get one of AJ's front bumpers with the winch mount and maybe just put in a winch now instead of hassling with it later. Would you guys recommend any particular winch? I would like one that has the lowest profile. . . .

So far this Warn Winch M8000 with Hawse Fairlead (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=409&ProductId=764) was recommended to me . . . . But I wonder if maybe I should go with something with a higher rating like this WARN Tabor - Magnum 9 self-recovery winch (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=1576&ProductId=5447). It's even $100 cheaper. . . .

Are there any characteristics that I should be looking for in general?

Thanks.

I used to have a swing out tire carrier on my DD rear bumper and hated it. The reason why was due to the size and weight of the tire and rim, upon braking and acceleration the rear end would bounce. (dunno how to explain it) I would get erratic body roll sometimes due to it being mounted more toward one side than the other. I felt that it was due to the weight being so far back from the rear axle. Anyway, everytime I would remove the spare tire, the driving characteristics were improved dramatically. I had very soft rear leaves and front coils, so that may have attributed to it also. When I ditched that bumper I decided to do an in bed mount kinda like a pre-runner. I realize that you lose alot of room in the bed, but it sure made driving the truck feel safer. :)

That's interesting. I never heard about that. . . . I was thinking about using the swinging spare tire mount only when I'm wheelin so I can have a full size spare and not use up 2/3 of the bed with a tire. . . . For regular street driving I'll just leave a spare under the bed. AJ modified the tire carrier down there so it can fit a 35" tire. I think that should be close enough to a 37" to be a spare. . . .

So far this Warn Winch M8000 with Hawse Fairlead (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=409&ProductId=764) was recommended to me . . . . But I wonder if maybe I should go with something with a higher rating like this WARN Tabor - Magnum 9 self-recovery winch (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=1576&ProductId=5447). It's even $180 cheaper. . . .

Are there any characteristics that I should be looking for in general?

Thanks.


The warn Tabor is Junk. Stick with the m8000 if price is the issue. Do some research on the tabor winch, a lot of complaints...

Thanks for the heads up on the Tabor. . . . Somehow I figured that would be true. . . . You usually get what you pay for. . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%

man...i thought i finally found a different rig with that bumper and turns out to be the same one i've always liked. here's another pic for ya

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/b2dude/badasstaco.jpg

That's a sweet rig! . . . That's the exact bumper I'd like to get. The only difference is that I'd like a bar that curves up guards the grill. . . .

go with a decent bumpstop. the Trail-Gear ones are way too hard. i run THESE (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=208&cat=346&page=1) and they're plenty soft for a trail rig. you could always go air bumps too... but you don't really need them.

Thanks for the suggestion on the bumpstops. . . . I talked to Ethan at Poly about getting some air-bumps but he said that honestly it's really unnecessary unless I'm going to be jumping my rig, which I don't plan on doing. . . . But I think I will definitely need those competition style bumpstops since I need some that are longer than the Trail Gear ones anyways. . . You can see in this pic . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/SAS9inchliftand37intires19.jpg

I think I'll probably get the 4.5" bumpstops and then weld on the Trail Gear extenders. But I still need to hear back from AJ when he flexes it out and takes measurements. . . .

As for the front bumper, I thought that maybe I could get some opinions on various choices I have . . .

1. Should I get a winch?
I was thinking that perhaps it's better to get one now so that AJ can make a bumper that holds it. But today a friend of mine said that he doesn't see any point in spending hundreds on a winch when a come-along works just fine. One like this . . .

http://www.toolweb.com/pics/AMG72A.jpg

Any opinions? . . .

2. Should I get grill/headlight guards welded on the bumper?
Is it actually helpful? Has anyone gotten in a situation where it saved them from damage? Or is it something people get just because it looks cool? . . .

There's basically three things that I could add if I wanted . . .
1 - A grill guard. Like the All Pro bumper has here. . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/AllProfrontbumperdosamegrillgaurd.jpg

2 - A grill guard and headlight frame guards. Like this one has . . .

http://www.4wheelonline.com/Images/CategoryImages/ARB3420010.gif

3 - A grill guard, headlight frame guards, and headlight tubes. Like this has. . .

http://www.4wheelonline.com/images/products/DummyGrillGuard.jpg

Which would you get? Plain, with grill gaurd, with headlight frames, or with headlight tubes? . . .

3. Is it necessary to get a license plate mounted on the front?
I did some research and according to wikipedia it seems to be required by law in CA. They say the following, "In the United States, 19 states do not require an official front license plate, these states being Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Michigan, Mississippi, New Mexico, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Tennessee and West Virginia" . . . . But I see lots of people who don't have plates in the front and never get pulled over or fined for it. I guess it's one of those things that cops just overlook. . . .

[QUOTE=Revivalist][. . .

1. Should I get a winch?
I was thinking that perhaps it's better to get one now so that AJ can make a bumper that holds it. But today a friend of mine said that he doesn't see any point in spending hundreds on a winch when a come-along works just fine. One like this . . .

http://www.toolweb.com/pics/AMG72A.jpg

Any opinions? . . .

QUOTE]
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

ok, with that, no need for 4 wheel drive either, I mean you gothttp://www.toolweb.com/pics/AMG72A.jpg

you are covered:flipoff2:

Well, I guess his point is that if you have to stop and use a winch, then what's the difference between using a mounted winch or a come-along. . . Besides the convenience of pushing a buttom versus cranking a lever. . .

come alongs normally have a low rating, you'd have to carry tons of straps as they don't have much cable on them, and you are RIGHT there for with the wire breaks... update health insurance and lift insurance... just carry straps, save up for the winch if money is an issue...

ask bigtoyfreak how long a come a long would have taking at ttc-06, he winched for 3+ solid hours:eek:

100+ feet of cable vs 6 or so feet of cable

8k+ or 1.5, 3k
hmmmmmmmmmm;)

Ok, ok . . . So a winch is a good idea. . . I'm thinking I'll go with the Warn Winch M8000 with Hawse Fairlead (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=409&ProductId=764). . . Sound good?

Also, let me know what you guys think about the bumper options I mentioned above. . . .

Ok, ok . . . So a winch is a good idea. . . I'm thinking I'll go with the Warn Winch M8000 with Hawse Fairlead (http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=409&ProductId=764). . . Sound good?

Also, let me know what you guys think about the bumper options I mentioned above. . . .

good winch, a vendor on here ( Pat98TJ )has them for $524 shipped, unsure if that is with a roller fairlead
bumper.....pick one you like. bumpers are a personal choice, I don't like 95% of them I see:p

i've always liked the poison spyder tacoma bumper...
http://4wheeloffroad.com/2004ultimateadventure/ultimate_taco/131_0411_taco_01_z.jpg

Wow!! . . . That thing is BEEFY!! . . . But the only thing is that it looks like it it causes a noticable decrease in the approach angle. . . I think I like AJs better since it's still solid (not tube) but it's still got a pretty low profile. . . .

I think I'm gonna try something a little different if AJ says it'll work. . . . I'm gonna get this bumper . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/05-Truck%20related/Frontsolidbumperwithwinch.jpg


But I'm also gonna get something like this Wagg bumper that I can bolt on over AJ's whenever I go wheelin. . . .


http://www.4wheelonline.com/images/products/DummyGrillGuard.jpg


So the truck will look like this except for having AJs bumper instead of the stock one . . .


http://www.4wheelonline.com/images/products/97-04-TacomaF.jpg


I think that Wagg bumper will fit over AJ's bumper cuz his probably doesn't stick out more than the stock one. I'll probably just have to cut off the center crossbar. . . . The nice thing about that setup is that the Wagg will add extra protection for the grill and lights when I go wheelin but when I'm not wheelin, I'll probably just take it off cuz I don't really care for the look of it or the extra weight. . .

I'm also thinkin about gettin some of these to protect the tail lights when I'm wheelin . . .


http://www.4wheelonline.com/Images/CategoryImages/WSTN-TaillightGuard.jpg

http://www.4wheelonline.com/images/products/MANK-928859.jpg

Uh...

Really...

Please...

Don't do that brush bar thing...

Why?

Why?

taillight guards, brush guard = poser/mall crawler. Really.

Why?
for lack of better wording...



yer rig will go from fully bad ass lookin to fully fawkin :rainbow:

lights are gonna break, so are grills, and body pannels are gonna get scratched. you can't protect everythin without lookin completely retarded.

those tail light things will just get pushed into the light and break them that way. leave those off imho...

It seems weird to me to avoid using certain types of body armor just because mall crawlers use them. . . . I've always thought that trying to avoid being in style is just as bad as trying to be in style. . . . Why not do what works best?

They may protect you from the occasional twig but anything bigger than that and they will crumple. Those tail light protectors aren't worth a shit. I wouldn't waste my money.

It seems weird to me to avoid using certain types of body armor just because mall crawlers use them. . . . I've always thought that trying to avoid being in style is just as bad as trying to be in style. . . . Why not do what works best?
They do not work is the reason mall runners have them. Look at how they attach and you will see that a few srews will not protect your tails from breaking.

Now the grill gaurd combo with the AJ bumper is ridiculous. Spend the money on things worth while or just keep it in the bank for wheeling trips.

Truck looks great and I am jealous as fawk. Now you need some basic protection and get out and use it to get a feel for how it works. Seat time will help you determine what it really needs.

Ok, well I think I've settled on going with a ARB bumper in the front. That will give the extra protection I'm looking for around the lights and I think it's pretty strong in general. . . .

http://www.4wheelonline.com/Images/CategoryImages/ARB3420010.gif

The only questions I have is whether it reduces the approach angle, and whether I can use the Warn multi-mount with a front receive instead of using a winch in the bumper. I want to use these . . .

http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems/images/192/receiver.jpg

http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems/images/193/winch-carrier.gif

That way I can remove the winch when I'm not wheelin and also put it on the back hitch if I ever need to winch from behind . . .

Anyone have experience or pictures running an ARB bumper on their Taco? . . . Or experience with the multi-mount? . . .

Ok, well I think I've settled on going with a ARB bumper in the front. That will give the extra protection I'm looking for around the lights and I think it's pretty strong in general. . . .

yes the arb, or anything but that other bumper. please.

yes the arb, or anything but that other bumper. please.
:laughing: :laughing: this is why I said pick one you like, everyone has a different opinion, I think the ARB IS THE UGLYEST BUMPER MADE:flipoff2: but if you like it cool:smokin:

:laughing: :laughing: this is why I said pick one you like, everyone has a different opinion, I think the ARB IS THE UGLYEST BUMPER MADE:flipoff2: but if you like it cool:smokin:

oh hell no, i dont like the arb. but its way better than that other trash. $700 is a lot of money for a bumper. spend a hundred and make your own: :p

oh hell no, i dont like the arb. but its way better than that other trash. $700 is a lot of money for a bumper. spend a hundred and make your own: :p:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Well, I was gonna go with this custom bumper from Bentup.com . . .

http://www.bentup.com/FrontBumpers/Tacoma/nowinch350.jpg

http://www.bentup.com/FrontBumpers/Tacoma/tacoma3501.jpg

But the only reason I didn't go that route is because l like how the ARB doesn't show so much of the tire and also how it doesn't go so low in the center . . . .

I don't really know what other good choices are out there. Unforunately I don't have the tools or skill to make my own bumper.

ARB w/ modified frame horns. Mount the winch in the ARB and don't worry about the hassle of the multi-mount...

No offense meant, but realistically it sounds like you have never wheeled before. That said, I doubt that approach angle should be much of a concern given you have a huge lift with 37's. Meaning even if that extra inch off the front overhang is the one thing that lets you go up an obstacle, you're probably gonna wet yourself and back off it anyway. Hmmm, I really meant not to be offensive, but I don't think I succeeded. Oh well, its the anonymous internet, right?

That's ok, no offense taken. I'm already used to the fact that forums are filled with guys who say lots of offensive things to other people while hiding behind a keyboard and monitor somewhere miles away. . . . I try to make it a point not to say anything to someone online that I wouldn't say if they were right in front of me. . . .

Anyhow, it's true that I have limited experience off-road. I've only gone on two trips where I pushed my rig to it's limit (either broke something, got stuck, or couldn't climb any higher). . . . I quickly discovered the limitations of a stock 2WD PreRunner. So I decided to turn my rig into the most capable rig it can be without cutting up the body. That included converting to 4WD, a solid front axle, dual lockers, dual t-cases, and 37" MT/Rs. . . . . I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and I'm hoping that now I can have more fun learning how to wheel instead of being held back by the limitations of my rig. . .

I just need to make a few more choices concerning the bumpers, the winch, how much to reduce the body lift, and how much to trim the fenders . . . Then I'll be done. :D

ARB w/ modified frame horns. Mount the winch in the ARB and don't worry about the hassle of the multi-mount...How would you modify the frame horns . . . cut them off? bend them? . . .

Is there any benefit of being able to winch a rig from behind? . . . I thought the multi-mount is nice because it can hook to the front or back. . . . Also, I don't have to carry the winch all the time when I'm on the street, since this isn't a dedicated off-road vehicle.

Haha, if we were talking face to face, you're right, no way I'd talk like that, unless you were my brother or something. Anyway, absolutely sweet truck. You will have to resist the temptation to "show off" on the trails and end up thrashing it.

Ever picked up a winch with a multimount? I just did last week and about lost a nut. It was a 9500 Warn and the mount. Looks retarded also.

Get out and wheel it some

Almost any multimount will give a horrible approach angle compared to most bumpers with built in winch mounts.

And if you don't have the multimount mounted all the time, having to drag it out of the bed and install it any time you need/want to winch is going to be a hassle.

Just put it in the bumper and forget about it. Most of the time you will be wheeling with someone else (hopefully) and they can give you a tug backwards if you need it. Most people who have winches comment that they usually end up using them to help other people more than they use them for themselves anyway. ;) Your rig will probably not be an exception to that rule.

I set my rig up with front and rear receivers thinking that I would go the multimount route. When I finally got a winch a few months ago, I decided against it (put it in the bumper) and I'm happy with that decision.

How would you modify the frame horns . . . cut them off? bend them? . . .

Is there any benefit of being able to winch a rig from behind? . . . I thought the multi-mount is nice because it can hook to the front or back. . . . Also, I don't have to carry the winch all the time when I'm on the street, since this isn't a dedicated off-road vehicle.

Do a search on TTORA or YotaTech for the required frame horn modification - just adds beef to the mounting points for winching.

Also, you'll likely need to remove the entire bodylift to make mounting an ARB easier. Then again, I'm not sure how the ARB actually mounts on the front of the Taco; you might have to modify the ARB for the SAS.

Thanks for the input, guys. . . .

@Bones - Nope, never picked up a multi-mount and winch. . . . But I figure it's not something I would have to do that often. . . . I can't go wheelin quite yet. The truck is actually up at AJ's shop in Sacramento. He's still taking care of a few more things like lowering the body lift, putting bumpstops with extenders, adding a swaybar with quick disconnects, building a wrap-around rear bumper with spare tire mount and rear panel tubes, installing a tranny temp gauge, etc. . . . He's even building an RTI ramp for me!

@ ErikB - Yes, I figured the approach angle would be really bad while the winch is mounted on the multi-mount in front. That's why I was planning to take it off when I'm not using it. I don’t mind the hassle since it probably won’t be that often. I’m also hearing about peoples’ winches not working after taking a dip during a creek crossing. That wouldn’t happen if it’s sitting in the bed nice and covered.. . .

@ rockota – Thanks for the heads up. . . . I tried to do a search for it at TTORA but I didn’t find it. . . . As for the body lift, it doesn’t seem that we can remove it without completely tearing up the fenders at this point (as well as cutting off the rear crossmember for the shocks and remounting it elsewhere, pulling out the steering shaft again to shorten it, lowering the tranny & t-cases, etc.) . . . So we’re going to leave it at 1.5-2”. . . I know AJ will be able to do whatever fab work needed to mount the bumpers . . .

But the only reason I didn't go that route is because l like how the ARB doesn't show so much of the tire and also how it doesn't go so low in the center . . . .


When wheeling you want more of the tire to show. That way you don't have to worry about scraping the bumper trying to get your tire on an obstacle. I think the Bent up bumper looks great!!

I think the multi-mount would be a lot of work because you would have to have it on the entire time you are wheeling and it would kill the approach. If you were ever in a situation where the front receiver hitch could not be accessed when a winch is needed and you winch isn't there then you would be SOL without a tree or something behind you to pull you out.

I tried to do a search for it at TTORA but I didn’t find it.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com

Thanks for the input, guys. . . .
@ rockota – Thanks for the heads up. . . . I tried to do a search for it at TTORA but I didn’t find it. . . . As for the body lift, it doesn’t seem that we can remove it without completely tearing up the fenders at this point (as well as cutting off the rear crossmember for the shocks and remounting it elsewhere, pulling out the steering shaft again to shorten it, lowering the tranny & t-cases, etc.) . . . So we’re going to leave it at 1.5-2”. . . I know AJ will be able to do whatever fab work needed to mount the bumpers . . .

I know it's on Yotatech.com as well. I'll poke around and see if I can get you a direct link. Definitely do the mod before installing any winch bumper.

Here is how it works...Quick search on TTORA led me to this little gem :D

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24667

I talked to AJ about the ARB bumper and he said that the mounts would in fact need to be modified because of the SAS . . . I was also looking at that “End Cap Mod” but I don’t see how that would work with the SAS either. . . . It seems like there would have to be a lot of cutting and welding right where AJ already welded a front crossmember and the spring hanger. Is there anyone around here who did that mod with a solid axle? . . . Here's some pics of what I'm talking about . . .

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/SAS20.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/03-Working%20on%20the%20truck/WorkingwithAjatBentup-3rdDay34.jpg

any updates yet??

any updates yet??Yup. I haven't had a chance to take a lot of new pics. But since I last posted we installed an ARB bumper up front with a Warn M8000 winch, hawse fairlead, and synthetic rope. . . .

For the rear Aj custom fabbed a wrap around bumper with rear panel tubes, a hitch, spare tire mount, and D-ring loops. . . . In addition we put a swaybar with quick disconnects, dropped the body lift to 2", and clearanced the front wheelwells a bit. . . .

I finally got a chance to take her wheelin! . . . Here's a pic in my drive way all packed up and ready to roll! . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald%20Mountain%2011-06/BaldMountain1b.jpg


The trail ride went well. I took video clips that I'll piece together and post later. . . . There was only really bad spot where I took a wrong line and leaned her over too close for comfort! . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald%20Mountain%2011-06/BaldMountain4.jpg


We tethered up the front to a tree with the winch and a buddy I met on the trail hooked a tow strap and winch line to the rear of the rock slider. . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald%20Mountain%2011-06/BaldMountain6b.jpg


It turned out fine as I eased off driver's side rocks and tigtened the winch . . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald%20Mountain%2011-06/BaldMountain7b.jpg


We made it to the look-out tower at the top but it was already gettin later so the pics came out dark. . .


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/Revivalist/06-My%20Truck/02-Off-Road%20Trips/03-Bald%20Mountain%2011-06/BaldMountain16.jpg


I got some good video clips that I'll piece together post up later. . . .

does your spare mounted under the truck get beaten to death? With all the money you have in that thing I'd figure out a mount in bed.

No, the problem is that a 37" tire can't fit down below between the shackles. The biggest that will fit is a 35" which is ok as a spare on the street. But I prefer to have a full spare on the trail so I don't run into issues with using a locker and different size wheels on the trail. . . .

I did consider using a spare tire mount in the bed but that would eat up about 2/3 of the bed space. . .

you could figure something out to mount the tire standing upright in the bed and not eat up too much bed.

That's true. . . . But I don't see what advantage that would have over the swing out tire carrier. . .

It's tall enough that that tire out back poses no problems IMO. PLus the DC beds are small enough already without a 37 hogging up space.

Not a favorite of many, but make a roof rack and mount it on the cab....seeing you have a double cab?

Not a favorite of many, but make a roof rack and mount it on the cab....seeing you have a double cab?
Yeha it needs more weight up top :shaking:

Well, I'm sort of torn. I really like the tire mount because I can carry a full spare and not use up 2/3 of the bed. . . . But I think it's probably raising my cog a good bit. . . . Maybe I'll try wheelin without it and see if it really makes a difference. . . .

The main issue right now is that I desperately need new springs. I have the Trail Gear 5" springs all around. The back is holding up great but the fronts are almost flattened out. And I've only had them on for about 2 months with only one trail run! . . . I know they weren't made for a V6 D-cab Tacoma so it's not surprising. Hopefully Trail Gear will be kind enough to swap them out for the heavy duty springs that I see they're selling now . . . I'll have to stop in and ask. . .