I just need to make sure i have the information 100% correct before I take my 79 F250 Dana 60 rear to the machine shop tuesday...

I'm installing 35 spline yukon shafts

I need to have the tubes bored to 1.6" 7 inches deep, correct?

thanks in advance

-Erik

33 views and nobody can help?

i know i'm not the first to bore a dana 60 for 35 spline shafts.... wrong forum maybe?

you have the spindles bored, not the axle tubes, and they have to be bored all of the way through, I have no idea where 7"s deep puts you, but I am guessing that probably puts you all of the way through the spindle.

Later,
Jason

sorry for my lack of understanding the proper terminology with this axle... this is the first axle i've torn apart othe than my dana 35 and it is very different.... so 7" is the depth of the spindle.... that would make sense since the dana 70 and 14 bolt do not need to be bored and they have different size spindles but the same size axle tubes....

1.6" is the correct diameter though, correct?

1.6" is the correct diameter though, correct?


the diameter of the 35 spline shaft is 1.5". the 1.6" for the bore is to ensure clearence. in theory you could get by with 1.501" to clear the splines upon install. as long as the shaft necks down a little and you have no runnout issues at the flange and where the shaft will be inside the spindle during operation.

And yes, 1.501 is a joke. but 1.525 to 1.550 is more realistic. 1.6 seems a but much imho.

thank you very much. i have heard 1.525 before but 1.6 was the most common answer i was able to find by searching a few forums.

perhaps i'll just have them bore it 1.525 - 1.550 and have the shafts with me while having it done to ensure that they will fit without any problems (which shouldnt't even be an issue).

If you would like to know the awnser to the question about the axle tubes or anything about this topic you can try calling Pro Fab Motor sports in Billings MT. They are a 4 wheeling machine shop that did a test axel in 4wheel magazine on a jeep and it held up really good and was giving a thumbs up for the work they did but i know they board the axel tube out i just dont know what to off hand

If it were me, I'd be dang certain of the minimum bore I need to get by. I've thought about this, but don't want to do it since it's makes the spindle wall thinner and to some extent will affect strength of the spindle. What is the OD/ID you are working with, so that you'll basically know how much material you'll be left with in your spindles?

Where did you get all your info. from? I don't believe a D70 or 14b have the same dia. tubes either.

after much reading about the difference in spindles on the d60 and d70 and 14b, it's become apparent to me that the thinner walls on the spindle won't be an issue assuming i don't bore it waaay too much.... the OD is the same for the d60 and d70 (forget about the 14b) but the id on the d70 is thinner to allow for the use of the oem 1.5" shafts.... so in essense, boring my d60 spindle to the same id as the d70 spindle will make them identical id and od, and there-fore, strenth..... unless i've been terribly misinformed or misunderstood this whole thing... to clarify, i'm talking only about the spindles, not the axle tubes. i don't know the difference between the d60 and d70 tubes id or od.


i'm just going to bring my 35 spline shafts with me to the machine shop tuesday and have them measured by the guy and have him bore the spindles to whatever size he feels is best.... surely it will be under 1.6" and i'm guessing he'll end up near 1.56" or so.....

after much reading about the difference in spindles on the d60 and d70 and 14b, it's become apparent to me that the thinner walls on the spindle won't be an issue assuming i don't bore it waaay too much.... the OD is the same for the d60 and d70 (forget about the 14b) but the id on the d70 is thinner to allow for the use of the oem 1.5" shafts.... so in essense, boring my d60 spindle to the same id as the d70 spindle will make them identical id and od, and there-fore, strenth..... You are correct. unless i've been terribly misinformed or misunderstood this whole thing... No, you have not been misinformed to clarify, i'm talking only about the spindles, not the axle tubes. i don't know the difference between the d60 and d70 tubes id or od. Not an issue, don't worry about it.


i'm just going to bring my 35 spline shafts with me to the machine shop tuesday and have them measured by the guy and have him bore the spindles to whatever size he feels is best.... surely it will be under 1.6" and i'm guessing he'll end up near 1.56" or so.....

For what it's worth, about two years ago, I attempted to bore stock D60 rear spindles at home. Never, never again. :mad3: I bought a D70-U and pitched the D60. However, since you are taking the axle/vehicle to a shop to have it done, I think it's a cool mod. Best of luck. :D

Roy

For what it's worth, about two years ago, I attempted to bore stock D60 rear spindles at home. Never, never again. :mad3:
Roy

Yes, I believe I bought that Rube Goldberg contraption from you. What a waste of time, steel, thought and money.:mad3:

Yes, I believe I bought that Rube Goldberg contraption from you. What a waste of time, steel, thought and money.:mad3:

If you are talking about the Kent Moore Reamer, I remember who you are. I did not even get to the point of using that tool. If I remember correctly, the stock D60 rear spindle is 1.4xxx"? Anyway, I bought an adjustable 1.5" adjustable reamer from Michigan Industrial Tools (MIT), and broke it the first night I used it.....after several hours of using the tool with Lugie (98TJLugie or something close to that on this board). Prior the starting the process, I bought the bling Kent Moore Reamer in the fancy green plastic case with the idea of using it to "finish the job" after I got the spindle "close to where it needed to be.

I will say that I've never had sexual relations with a dead horse, but after many hours spent trying to bore the D60 spindle with many beers, an impact wrench, 1/2" electric drill, 1/2" electric impact, and 3/8" air ratchet, etc, etc, etc, I felt that I was indeed fawking a dead horse.

Anyway, post your experiences of spindle boring at home....I believe you bought that rather expensive tool for a cheap price.

Roy

FWIW, most D60 FF rears I've seen have the same journal size for both hub bearings. Whereas the D70 and 14BFF have a larger inner journal, and thus, more beef to start with. Just something to think about in terms of overall strength.

I felt that I was indeed fawking a dead horse.

Anyway, post your experiences of spindle boring at home....I believe you bought that rather expensive tool for a cheap price.

Roy

Yes, $60+shp IIRC. I felt there was nothing so big as a horse involved, more like a column of goats. I think someone has to experience the attempt to realize how futile it is. Spindles are hard, like glass hard. A hs steel cutter dosen't even leave a mark.

FWIW, most D60 FF rears I've seen have the same journal size for both hub bearings. Whereas the D70 and 14BFF have a larger inner journal, and thus, more beef to start with. Just something to think about in terms of overall strength.

Yea, I think I might have to play around on-line and try and pull up an inner/outer D60 FF rear bearing/race for my 78 axle I used, and then do the same for a D70 axle from some 1ton application and see what I come up with. I'm thinking the same as you, I'm doubting the bearings are the same, at least the inner one (and I can't honestly remember if that one was bigger, but I probably have pics around of the spindle).

Ok, my D60FF is the same Timken Set 38 for inner/outer. So then I went online and selected a ford 1 ton, 1983 (before the 10.25 I believe), diesel 4x4, so I think this might have been the D70 rear...timken bearing was the same set 38 outer, but the inner is a 382A, just don't have the spec on that.

Eric; Before you spend big machine shop $$ & the big shafts still won't fit, please listen to my tale of woe. I did the same thing, spent $$$$ big on 35 spline Detroit, new gears & install into my Dana 60. Shafts still won't fit after $400 of machine shop. Spindles are too thin, machine shop won't go any further. Got Dana 70 DRW COMPLETE AXLE from 72' Dodge motorhome. Cut spindles off D70 & had them welded on to my D 60 housing. More BIG$$.
LEARN FROM MY COSTLY MISTAKES
79' ONE TON Bronco 429 39.5's Detroits Flings the friggin GOO!!!

D70 spindle

http://4x4.forensick.net/88bronco/images/dana70/15.jpg

bearings, inner/outer

http://4x4.forensick.net/88bronco/images/dana70/21.jpg

Boring D60 spindle will not leave you anything near a D70 spindle.

Keep in mind that different D70 rear axles may well indeed use different size bearings. From personal experience, I will state this:

Front Ford D60 inner and outer bearings and races are the same as rear D70-U inner (382) & outer (set 38) bearings & races. Also, I've bought/sold many D60 carriers for various reasons over the past three years. The carrier bearings & races (382) on a D60 carrier (yeah it's not good to use the same word twice in one sentence) are also the same as my inner HP Dana 60, and my rear D70-U.

I've taken note of this because for the most part, interchangability of Ford parts generally sucks....I was rather shocked to find that I had several leftover parts that could be used as spares (D60 carrier bearings can be used as replacement inner bearings/races on both my front & rear axle). This is good stuff to have in the garage or on the trail for emergency or maintenance purposes. More than once, I've disassembled the front or rear axle a few days before a trail ride to make sure everything looks Kosher. More than once, I've been happy to have a replacement bearing/race stored in a box in the ammo cans at my immediate disposal....nice to be able to replace stuff immediately vs. driving to town, ordering part, sometimes waiting a day, etc.

Roy