anyone run these kits?
how well do they work?
got any pics or a link?

Do you? I've never heard of it....:confused:

Yea,its called a 4 link!

Here is a prototype that I used on one of my older trucks. This one had problems but and later AP change the design by adding a third support leg. This solved the problem and now they work great. This one only fit the rear axle but I have seen home made ones on the front axle that worked well too.

http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/stories/suspension/spring_stack_l.jpg

http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=49

Here is a prototype that I used on one of my older trucks. This one had problems but and later AP change the design by adding a third support leg. This solved the problem and now they work great. This one only fit the rear axle but I have seen home made ones on the front axle that worked well too.


looking to use one on the front,maybe on the rear if i don't go 4link.

maybe im missing somthing....but whats wrong with u-bolts?

KISS seems to be working fine

maybe im missing somthing....but whats wrong with u-bolts?

KISS seems to be working fine


The above parts were originally designed by Jay king after seeing a leaking housing from the stress of the U-bolts. It's very rare, but the U-bolts can, over time, can cause stress cracks and failure of the housing.

if they get loose, it is more likely they frett the steel and cause it to leak that way.

the spring capture idea works, just scares me to think that the bolts can come loose becuase they don't stretch like a u-bolt does.

meritor does make a fabricated front steer axle for trucks, and they are always comming loose. my solution was finally to double nut them, and use a stover for the seccond one.

Why not put the welded nuts on a plate at the bottom of the housing??

If it is on the top, all you can depend on is the bracket welded to the side of a 1/4" housing...
If it is on the bottom, it is more likely to bend the mounting plate than crack the housing...

You guys gave me some good ideas!!

I fabbed this one up for my 44...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_4881.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/version2/IMG_5044.jpg


I used 1/2" grade 8 bolts and already managed to loose one of them:rolleyes:
do a search on the allpro's eliminator and you'll find that it's common for them to snap/loosen up, etc. If you can work around the eliminator and use u-bolts...do so.

National Fine thread will sort that out for you. Put a bead on the top too; 1/2" Grade 8 bolts are cheap anyways.

Breeze Industries in B.C., Canada makes a slick U-Bolt eliminator kit for the Suzuki to run Toyota running gear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/joshjohnbaun/Perches.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/kalinocka/100_0811.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/kalinocka/100_0800.jpg

Thanks to supazuk94 for the pictures.

Toyota Axle to Samurai Perch and Plate Set $200.00 per set

This set is designed to run 2" wide springs only and with no u-bolts, which don’t work on the passenger front side with the larger Toyota 3rd member and Samurai spring width. The perch has the width for the spring and bolts to go through to sandwich the springs between it and the plate. With not running u-bolts, it is imperative that you have the confidence in who ever welds the housings as it’s the only thing keeping them under the truck! The benefits are bolts are cheap compared to u-bolts so you can change them every time you want to do spring work and you can torque them down as hard as you like and not damage/squish the housing. The gussets fit into the perch ends to strengthen the saddles and prevent them from sagging in. The passenger front perch and gussets must be modified (cut and ground) to fit. The kit does not come with bolts, nuts and lock washers. We strongly recommend that you use ½" Grade 8 National Fine fasteners and make sure that you have a minimum of 1/4" thread thru the nut when you are done.