I have a stock 1980 CJ-5 4cyl with 31" A/T's. 4spd/manual T-case (Dana 300). It was purchased for Off-Road use only.

- I was told the clutch is going out when I bought it but it works fine for what I need it to do. I was also told the rear main seal is what is leaking (a few drops of oil a night). Is this a difficult seal to replace? ALso, I have seen where people say do not buy the Haynes repair manual, go with something else... what should I go with?

- I'm definately impressed at how well this thing does offroad for stock set up being 27 years old. However I was planning on lifting it before I purchased it, I wanted to go with 35 or 36 inch tires and lockers. I know the AMC 20 rear can't handle those size tires and the D35 front really can't either. I was wondering what is the easies/cheapest/best? lift I can buy/do? I've seen SOA conversions, lift kits in the magazines and some other stuff. Info/tech/how-to with pictures would be great. I believe that the SOA is better because it increases overall ground clearance and should be the cheapest because you don't buy new springs... etc.

- I was going to weld the rear spider gears together so that when they grenade I can go with a Ford 8.8 (since I'm familiar with them on my Mazda)or something similar (Dana 44 or something) and get a locker and do it right. Should I skip the welding and after a lift kit, or SOA get the 8.8?

- Also I need vehicle model/year(s) that will be good axle conversion candidates for the front (ie- 19xx Scout Dana 44 front axle) since it has a passenger side drop on the T/Case. How to's/tech/info needed!


On a side note, after about 45 minutes of wheelin (mostly slow idling) in about 85 degree's of direct sunlight today she overheated... shut it off, popped the hood, and let it cool down then immidately took it off the trail, drove it down a normal road and it cooled down quickly.

I'm doing searches on here daily and learning alot. Anybody got a question about a SuperDuty with a 7.3? lol I know something about them there trucks...

Also anybody in the area gimme a shout! I'd LOVE to meet up and do a lil offroadin :D

I came from a 1994 Mazda B4000 (however I plan to sell it) that was built up to be able to be my off and on road vehicle. 6" Superlift w/ dual steering stabilizers, 33" A/T's, Ford 8.8 rear w/ Detroit True-Trac, Yukon 4.10's, to many new ball joints/wheel bearings to talk about lol. I now have a 2001 F250 has my daily driver and a jeep has my offroad only! :D

After some more searching, I've found these helpful links...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373029&highlight=TOTM

- I was told the clutch is going out when I bought it but it works fine for what I need it to do. I was also told the rear main seal is what is leaking (a few drops of oil a night). Is this a difficult seal to replace? ALso, I have seen where people say do not buy the Haynes repair manual, go with something else... what should I go with?...

Get the Haynes. It'll walk you though the clutch rebuild as well as the main seal. Start there; get your rig reliably running before you tear into it. Even for a dedicated wheeler.

. . . .I know the AMC 20 rear can't handle those size tires (35" 36") and the D35 front really can't either. I was wondering what is the easies/cheapest/best? lift I can buy/do? I've seen SOA conversions, lift kits in the magazines and some other stuff. Info/tech/how-to with pictures would be great.

If you aren't familiar with what it takes to do the rear main seal and clutch on you rig, I daresay you'll find an axle swap and an SOA conversion a bit more challenging.

the AMC20 will work fine. There's the one-piece shaft swap that makes it as stout as a 44. For the mean time, locate axles, educate yourself on all that's involved in an axle swap and ready the build for it. that way you're not down while education takes place. Don't hope for us to spoon feed you answers, find a solution, suggest it here and get feedback.


- I was going to weld the rear spider gears together so that when they grenade I can go with a Ford 8.8 (since I'm familiar with them on my Mazda)or something similar (Dana 44 or something) and get a locker and do it right. Should I skip the welding and after a lift kit, or SOA get the 8.8?

You should put a plan together first. Here's my advice:
1. Get recovery equipment on board: That is winch, accessories, hooks, D-rings, etc.
2. CAGE. Seats should secure to cage and the cage's strength includes where it secures to.
2. make your vehicle as reliable as possible so you're not holding the trail up. New clutch, fix leaks, get the whole rig up to the task of wheeling.
3. Plan your build. You want wider axles? what about WB stretch? One ton's? Maybe one day 36" tires will get too small, why not plan for that? Take time to include details like frame strengthening, gear ratio calcs, outboarding springs, longer brake lines, power steering and brake upgrades. Tell us your plans; we can help there.
4. Axle swap should happen with brake upgrade, high steer conversion, locker addition, outboarding springs, SRS and SOA all at the same time. Also do the frame & brake mods while this happens. Anticipate one day having to go hydro-assist, as bigger tires may need it.


- Also I need vehicle model/year(s) that will be good axle conversion candidates for the front (ie- 19xx Scout Dana 44 front axle) since it has a passenger side drop on the T/Case. How to's/tech/info needed!

Mid-70's FS Waggies will have the axles you'll need if you want 63" wide 1/2 ton axles.


Good luck

Get the Haynes. It'll walk you though the clutch rebuild as well as the main seal. Start there; get your rig reliably running before you tear into it. Even for a dedicated wheeler.

If you aren't familiar with what it takes to do the rear main seal and clutch on you rig, I daresay you'll find an axle swap and an SOA conversion a bit more challenging.

I'll get the haynes, and welcome your assistance. I do plan on fixing the minor problems, but honestly it runs great and everything works. Only new problem I've encountered was it overheated after about 45 minutes of wheeling (lots of 4low idling over rough terrain) in 85 degree heat. After driving it back down the road at about 25mph the temp dropped about 45 degrees quickly. As far as fixing stuff or doing axle swaps I'm sure I'm up for it. I can weld, and I've tackled every previous problem/task on my 3 previous trucks ranging from 3 transmissions, wheel bearings, ball joints, axle seals etc... I just need the play by play on the how-to and I"m set!


the AMC20 will work fine. There's the one-piece shaft swap that makes it as stout as a 44. For the mean time, locate axles, educate yourself on all that's involved in an axle swap and ready the build for it. that way you're not down while education takes place. Don't hope for us to spoon feed you answers, find a solution, suggest it here and get feedback.

I was notified of the problems with the AMC20 axles including Axle tubes turning in differential housings, weak tubes that bend, and the 2 peice axle that comes apart and leaks gear oil all over the place. Fixes include 1 piece axle, and welding a supporting bar from one side to the other and welding the tubes to the housing. Swap, I don't want to go ALOT wider and I doubt I'll ever go above the 36" mark, this isn't my first lifted vehicle. Even if the jeeps down, that's fine. I love working on vehicles, and this jeep is not my daily driver so it won't be a big deal!




You should put a plan together first. Here's my advice:
1. Get recovery equipment on board: That is winch, accessories, hooks, D-rings, etc. I have a 10,000lbs winch that I"m looking for mouting ideas, big jack, spare tire, wheel bar, tow hooks, air compressor...
2. CAGE. Seats should secure to cage and the cage's strength includes where it secures to. I Only have the stock roll cage
2. make your vehicle as reliable as possible so you're not holding the trail up. New clutch, fix leaks, get the whole rig up to the task of wheeling.
3. Plan your build. You want wider axles? what about WB stretch? One ton's? Maybe one day 36" tires will get too small, why not plan for that? Take time to include details like frame strengthening, gear ratio calcs, outboarding springs, longer brake lines, power steering and brake upgrades. Tell us your plans; we can help there. I don't really want wider axles, just wanted stronger ones since people tell me the stock ones won't hold up to 35's or 36's.
4. Axle swap should happen with brake upgrade, high steer conversion, locker addition, outboarding springs, SRS and SOA all at the same time. Also do the frame & brake mods while this happens. Anticipate one day having to go hydro-assist, as bigger tires may need it.




Mid-70's FS Waggies will have the axles you'll need if you want 63" wide 1/2 ton axles.


Good luck

bbtp

if your trying to stuff 35" tires under it a 4 1/2" sua lift would work if you get tube fenders for the front and tj flares for the rear. if you trailer it a comp cut would be better. if you go with 36 a different setup would be better i.e soa

also assuming everything is stock i believe you have the narrow track axles which also means that you got those short shock towers that are barely above the frame if i were you i would cut those suckers off and put in longer shock towers cause your shocks would limit your axle movement. i used f-250 shock towers you can pick them up at a dealership for under $15 and they're pretty stout. i got a part number if you want it

EDIT i have a winshield hoop and 4 spreaders if you want to buy it. its cut in half but i got a sleeve for it. it is 2" dom 1/8" wall and the sleeve is 1 3/4" its a tight fit and with plug welds it should be fine. it could be a start for your cage pm me if you interested im near o.c. md