Went to authorized workshop to have the codes read this morning.
Left rear sensor-signal weak.

Cleaning of cable connections and check position of sensor?

Other ideas how to prevent it from reappearing?

Can I reset the warning lights next time by just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes or is there a better procedure?

T

Weak sensor signal? Now there's one I hadn't heard before... Perhaps making sure the air gap is clean would be the first place to start. The sensor is screwed to the hub and reads the exciter ring inside the hub. There MIGHT be some dirt inside there.

Disconnecting the battery won't do a thing to extinguish the lights.

Good luck, you seem to be having quite a run of bad luck lately.

PT

Have you checked for wheel bearing play? That has played some tricks for me in the past. I also THINK that the sensors are supposed to ground to the hub. At least new ones come with a copper sleeve thing and a tube of what looks like dielectric grease.

A little dirt on the inside should be of no consequence, unless it is magnetic and/or is present in quantities large enought to push the sensor out.

Have you checked for wheel bearing play? That has played some tricks for me in the past. I also THINK that the sensors are supposed to ground to the hub. At least new ones come with a copper sleeve thing and a tube of what looks like dielectric grease.

A little dirt on the inside should be of no consequence, unless it is magnetic and/or is present in quantities large enought to push the sensor out.

Wheel bearing play on a DII would be very obvious before it caused ABS issues-noise, throbbing, etc.

If the gaps in the exciter ring are occluded, it can and will cause poor response from the sensor.

:grinpimp: Wheel bearing play on a DII would be very obvious before it caused ABS issues-noise, throbbing, etc.


Sounds like you have experience here. I have noise and throbbing, but have yet to change the front propshaft and have changed from worn General S/T to BFG Mud. That gives rise to some throbbing, but perhaps not the kind you refer to :grinpimp:

T

The noise of a bearing going bad is very distinctive on these trucks, although, with your mileage, it would be well advised to inspect the u-joints as well if you have noise/vibration from the drivetrain. Often-times, the vibes will be speed dependent. Find a long road and run it at various speeds to look for vibes that are very noticeable at given speeds.

I would expect that a wheel bearing would have to be giving you all kinds of vibes for it to be far enough out for the sensor to not be reading well.

I now double checked my receipt for the code. They apparently use testbook, but I do not know if the codes on my receipt are the actual codes read by testbook, or if it is their interpretation...

04,5 rear left sensor output too low
08,5 rear left sensor signal erratic
16,7 compressor duty exceeded

The last I believe to be related to the SLABS. No worries.

Since the problem appeared a few weeks ago, when we received more than 4" of rain within a week I will check all cable connections underneath first.

T

Erratic signal is often-times associated with a failing sensor. I've been told they fail where the cable meets the body of the sensor. The outputs of the sensors is very low. I would not suggest using dielectric grease on these connections.

Disconnecting the battery won't do a thing to extinguish the lights.
PT

You serious? When we had the common oil in injector harnes problem in the Disco (TD5) we managed to drive home from winter holiday some 450kms by stopping every 100km to pull battery cable for 5-10 min to let the computer forget all the bad communication and allow the engine to run on all cylinders again.
So once we get persistent warning lights (ABS TC HDC Brake) there is no way but paying the $90 they charged for "diagnostic"? I could not even persuade them to skip the test drive!





Good luck, you seem to be having quite a run of bad luck lately.

PT

Says the man who seems to have redefined bad luck!

I don't complain. I have "imaginary internet friends" who not only did not rape me when i showed up but also keep giving me free advise :flipoff2:

T

You serious? When we had the common oil in injector harnes problem in the Disco (TD5) we managed to drive home from winter holiday some 450kms by stopping every 100km to pull battery cable for 5-10 min to let the computer forget all the bad communication and allow the engine to run on all cylinders again.
So once we get persistent warning lights (ABS TC HDC Brake) there is no way but paying the $90 they charged for "diagnostic"? I could not even persuade them to skip the test drive!





Says the man who seems to have redefined bad luck!

I don't complain. I have "imaginary internet friends" who not only did not rape me when i showed up but also keep giving me free advise :flipoff2:

T

Redefining bad luck-eh? It gets better. I'm looking for a more stable job and get a company on the hook... My e-mail is down and I can't get in to see if they want to see me tomorrow!

As for the free advice, don't you worry.One fo the jobs I've applied for is with Rolls Royce N/A. One of the points in the advert was that the job would require frequent travel to the UK! Just wait, you might get a phone call from the Stockholm airport needing a ride!

I would not suggest using dielectric grease on these connections.

So what is the whitish slightly grainy grease that comes with new sensors and is supposed to go in with the sensor, not the connector?

You serious? When we had the common oil in injector harnes problem in the Disco (TD5) we managed to drive home from winter holiday some 450kms by stopping every 100km to pull battery cable for 5-10 min to let the computer forget all the bad communication and allow the engine to run on all cylinders again.
So once we get persistent warning lights (ABS TC HDC Brake) there is no way but paying the $90 they charged for "diagnostic"? I could not even persuade them to skip the test drive.


I routinely reset the ABS light on my Defender by switching the engine on and off while driving on the highway!

Don't know if this is useful, but I have an ABS sensor pulled from the front right of my Defender. If it fits, you are free to use it for diagnostic purposes.

History:
I had intermittent ABS problems, and the computer said bad gap or something to that effect. I replaced the sensor and while things may have gotten a little better for a while, it was not a permanent fix.

Holey bushings gone to hell and wheelbearings ground down by muddy water was more likely the cause. The latter caused the CV to wear down the bronze bushing supporting it, and I am in the process of replacing these bushings now. I am fairly confident that this will finally render my ABS stable.

That doesn't prove that the sensor is perfect, but worth a try if it fits?