I didn't want to hijack Hardline04's thread so I'm starting this one as I have a newer model Sammy.

I have an adjustable proportioning valve but don't know how i'm going to install it. My rear stsock proportioning valve has to lines coming in front the front of the vehicle and one line coming out for the rear brakes. I have rear discs and want to proportion the discs in.

has anyone swapped stock for adjustable before and what do you do with the extra lines in the stocker? How is this setup?

thanks in advance.

You will need ditch the stocker and use two adjustables and add a second line to the axle. Samurais have a diagonal brake system, LF and RR are paired, and RF and LR are paired. You will need to trace out the lines and figure out which does which. Or, since you have discs front and rear, you could probably switch some lines around and run the front on one side of the master and the rears on the other.
Travis..

X2 on swapping lines around.

I was hoping you wouldn't say that but thanks. That might be a better setup anyways right?

swaping lines around is easy

find the splitter at the front inside frame and swap the lines from this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2605.jpg


to this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2606.jpg

eliminate the stock prop valve all together
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2604.jpg

and plumb in the manual valve
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2610.jpg

beautiful!

Bingo, exactly what I meant about swapping lines.
Travis..

I've done this several years ago when went to waggys and rear discs. I have a summit version proportion valve and I also mounted it right on the master cylinder. It also goes to the rear brakes only. After playing with it on some dirt and paved roads, its been working great for at least 5 years now. Can lock up these 35's nicely when I want to. Good luck on the install!

I also installed a line lock after the proportioning valve. Its just a nice added feature!

well, you could also check with wilwood for a good valve. you gotta adjust it so that the rear locks up slightly before the front. Ideally, they'd all lock up together. you'll have to give more pressure to the rear, probably, cuz discs need higher pressure since they're not self-energizing like drums. just play with it. I got fullsize chevy axles with 1/2 ton calipers and 4wheel discs. I have the stock valve and master cylinder and really don't have any problems with it. although the volume of the master could be a little more.

Bringing this back from the dead...
Where are you guys finding standard thread male to metric M10x1.0 female adapters? I need them to adapt the stock lines to the proportioning valve.

Bringing this back from the dead...
Where are you guys finding standard thread male to metric M10x1.0 female adapters? I need them to adapt the stock lines to the proportioning valve.

cut the line slide a metric fitting on (tube is the same) and double flare

swaping lines around is easy

find the splitter at the front inside frame and swap the lines from this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2605.jpg


to this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2606.jpg

eliminate the stock prop valve all together
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2604.jpg

and plumb in the manual valve
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/frwinks/SAMMI/IMG_2610.jpg

This is exactly what I did. Works awesome

I am doing the same thing, but since i have yota axles, i just removed one of the lines to the rear, and didnt use the stock splitter. Just went from hard line on firewall to the line to the rear. Hopefully it will work alright with the prop. valve.

Bringing this back from the dead...
Where are you guys finding standard thread male to metric M10x1.0 female adapters? I need them to adapt the stock lines to the proportioning valve.
The threads in the prop valve are like 1/8" pipe thread right? I would try Napa or a good independent parts store if you have one near.
I am doing the same thing, but since i have yota axles, i just removed one of the lines to the rear, and didnt use the stock splitter. Just went from hard line on firewall to the line to the rear. Hopefully it will work alright with the prop. valve.

If you didn't swap around your lines, you will have 3 brakes on one side of the master and one on the other. Make sure the fronts are on one side and the rears on the other.
Travis..

holy old thread. anyways. thanks for the help back in 2006. rig has been sold over a year ago.

Well, since this old thread is back up anyway...

Anyone see a problem with simply running one line from one port on the master to a prop. valve, then to the rear axle with a T on the axle. One line from the other port to the front axle, to another T to the front brakes?

Seems like that would be a much simpler way of doing things than the way Suzuki set it up, and since I need to run all new lines anyway...

No, i was trying to say that i have a line running from master, to the stock t on the framerail, to each front wheel.
Then i have another line running from master all the way to the rear axle.

shoot, I've got the diagrams to show what every port on all the stock equipment is supposed to be hooked to. I redid my brakes just like it was supposed to be stock, since I can still stop great and lock 'em up. only thing is, I need something like the firebird or whatever M/C so I don't have to give it a pump first.
so what year firebird m/c bolts right up to an '89 brake booster?