My 4.0's blown and I'm parting together a stroker motor. Here's what I have so far:

Sealed Power 677P Pistons
AMC 258 Crankshaft, '87-'90 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep-crankshaft-kit-258-1987-1990-25300_W0QQitemZ7958692230QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33616Q QssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
AMC 258 Connecting Rods
Crane Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam

And I know I'll need odds and ends like bearings and seals. I have a few questions:

Will the head need to be decked with the above parts combination?
Is the crankshaft description saying that it's already reground?

Mike

From what i get from the discription, the crank is reground, you can call and request the 10 20 or 30 thousandths under you would like.
My old housemat just did a stroker, i'd recomend a new timing set as well, then just get a complete engine rebuild kit that has all the bearings seals and gaskets. replacing the oil pump isn't a bad idea again while it's all apart.
Depending on what year your motor is, you're going to want to put larger injectors in and a different fuel pressure regulator in as well.

if I'm using stock connecting rods then I wouldn't need it ground under, right?


also, will I need to address the valves? For example will I need things such as new valve springs, locks, retainers and oil seals?

Furthermore, will I need to mill the head with the above configuration?


sorry for all the questions; I usually frequent JeepForum under the same name but they can hardly give me the advice I need on a techincal issue such as this.

for the ground under crank, your rods are fine, you just have to get over sized bearings, and that is very common, when you order the bearings they should ask what size.
depending on the age of the motor and the reaon that it is dead, the head should be at least checked for flat, no machining is normally required, if you are bringing it to a shop, you should have the head rebuilt. that normally will include a valve job(grinding new angles on the valves nad valve seats) new valve seals, and anyhting else that needs attention while it's apart. again depending on age and miles of the motor the valve springs and retainers may be reusable. but the machine shop can tell you that
hope that helps

dont know what your budget is, but im rebuilding my amc 258 as well. im doing everything the same except for im also porting and polishing the heads, and blueprinting the whole block. both these are relatively easy to do, but are very time consuming and if you dont have the skill or the time, then it gets very expensive. like 2000 for just the labor on it. just my 2 cents.

ready for the parts list?

here you go:

Block- 1996-1998 4.0 HO casting number 53020569 250.00
Head- 1991-1995 4.0 HO casting number 7120 150.00
Crankshaft- 1971-1980 12 counterweight crank casting number 3214723 105.00
Crankshaft rear main seal- #05018594AA 0.00
Crankshaft pilot bearing with AX-15 or NV3550 transmission- #53009180AB 13.21
Rods- AMC 258 rods # 3180444 71-81 707 casting) 159.00
Pistons- Sealed Power 677P +0.020 pistons #STL-677P20 118.04
Piston Rings- Hastings +0.020 cast piston rings #667 20.05
Rod bearings- Clevite 77 rod bearings #CB-960P-20. You’ll need 6 of these. 30.00
Main bearings- Federal Mogul main bearings #FEM-7211M 63.39
Main bearing studs- stock from a donor engine 0.00
Main bearing girdle spacer kit (14 hardened 5/16” steel washers) 1.00
Crankshaft sprocket bolt #83502890 and washer #J3173284 (reused from donor)0.00
Crank harmonic damper #33002920T (reused from donor) 0.00
Timing gear and chain CLO-9-3127 123.69
Oil pump- Melling high volume pump MEL-M167HVS 72.39
Complete Gasket Set- #J 242L-47 includes #CS-5713X and #HS-5713Z 70.84
Camshaft- CRN-753905 109.88
Camshaft bearings- Clevite 77 camshaft bearings #SH-549S 8.11
Lifters- CRN-99278-12 73.69
Fuel Injectors- Ford motor sport 24lb fuel injectors #FMS-M9395A302 200.00 or on ebay for less but used!
Spark plugs- Champion RC12LYC (set gap to 0.065) 15.00