: diff housing woes
Jtisdale 04-29-2002, 08:29 AM I had one of those unlucky situations present itself to me this weekend. As I was attempting a small rock obstacle, my rear diff guard got caught on a rock as I was driving forward. It pulled it up but not off. As I attempted to back up a few inches, the rock guard got caught between the rock and my diff resulting in the bottom edge of the guard creased the diff just below the fill plug. To make matters worse the rock mananged to poke a small hole in the diff casing as well. We pulled the shafts/driveshaft and drove back to camp where we successfully pounded the crease out. Unfortunately the welding rod we tried to use was too big and couldn't seal the now slightly bigger hole. I believe the hole can be fixed, but has anyone ever replaced the diff cover. It appears from the inside that the axle housing and diff cover are two pieces just seam welded together. That metal is so friggin thin that I'd love to replace it with something more substantial? I will more than likely just have the hole fixed and tack weld the new diff guard on but I thought I'd see if anyone had any creative ideas.
Johnathan
RockRover 04-29-2002, 08:39 AM No...I think your on the right track man...Just MIG the hole shut...Then WELD on your diff-guard of choice...I like to chop the upper part of a SG rear diff guard ring off and then stitch weld it on permanently.
roverhybrids 04-29-2002, 11:03 AM I know that serious one like to weld a sewer cap in place of the original thin metal.
There was a company in the UK that use to sell something simular; but it was ready to be welded on and you didn't have to add a fill hole or anything.
sorry can't remember the companies name. You may find it in one of the LR mags.
2 comments to add here:
1.
While in a competition about 2 years ago, Malcolm and I managed to ding the front diff and get a leak (no guard on it). As it was early in the day and we did'nt feel like going home, we ran the front up onto the lorry (Thank's Edwin) and cleaned it with petrol. We then "fixed the problem" with Rapid Set Araldite (JB Weld / expoxy resin stuff), Had our lunch, refilled with oil and drove on. No leaks all day. The next weekend we decided to "permanently fix" the problem, and to put on the diff guard that was in the garage for 6 months. We could'nt get the poxy epoexy off! So we left it there! put on the diff guard over it and it's still perfect 2 years later.
2.
On the front diff on my white d90, it's got one of those weld on jobs from some complay in the UK. (Dont know who, it was already on when I got it). It's heavier than stock, and has stuck up to my abuse for a few years now, but I think the diff guards are stronger. Doing it again - Go for a diff guard.
Merv.
Rover Addiction 04-29-2002, 12:21 PM Personally, I'm partial to the guard over the original diff so that you don't muck up the housing, but I've noticed that mine get full of mud and oil and all kinds of nasties over time. Eventually, it'll rust off, so it's probably a wise move to get rid of that possibility by using the sewer cap option.
Of course, I haven't welded my guard on yet either as you saw at the CC. Nothing that can't be easily rectified by using the nearest convenient rock as a BFH. :D
-John
Jtisdale 04-29-2002, 03:11 PM Yeah, thats the lesson I learned...weld em on. The front I never worry about because it will not pass by the panhard rod if it gets snagged. I even had the rear on a "leash" because it was always gettin pulled off. Just so happens I've got a new SG one on the bench cause the old one looks more like a trapazoid than a circle now!
Johnathan
J bradley 04-29-2002, 03:57 PM Tisdale - Ryan and I missed you at Uwharrie but I hear you were there, we must have been on a different trail..... :smokin:
I have had a rear diff cover hole/tear JB welded for over a year and it takes hits all the time and holds up great ( still no diff guard) . It started as a trail fix but I have put about 4 thick layers over it over the last year and now call it fixed ( in my book)
Did you run the center line on Rocky Mount to the top? What size tire were you on??
m016324 04-29-2002, 04:42 PM If you really want to bulletproof it call Tim Cooper at 503-236-0101 and ask him about either an axle housing or a diff cover. He sold me some diff covers (1/2" steel) but it took some convincing for him to do it. Have to torch off the old ones and weld on the new ones but both can be done in about a day. I was breaking rocks this weekend with mine so I can say it works pretty well.
-Ben
Jtisdale 04-29-2002, 05:10 PM It started as a trail fix but I have put about 4 thick layers over it over the last year and now call it fixed ( in my book)
Did you run the center line on Rocky Mount to the top? What size tire were you on?? [/B][/QUOTE]
Dewd-
Everyone was sayin' just JB weld it, but man I get paranoid about stuff like that...especially considering I drive my rig to most trails which are at the least several hours away.
Yeah- center line on RM, cruised it Friday nite no prob. Saturday morning it bit me. Murphy's Law- cause this was my rational "Its Uwharrie...nothing hard. So I take no tools and no recovery gear!" Lesson learned...stick to the harder trails!:D :D
BTW- 35" MT/Rs
Johnathan
JSBriggs 04-29-2002, 06:20 PM Old Scout started a thread a few weeks ago about adding weld on pipe cap. I sent him a few pic's, maybe he'll post them, but it is basically an 8" weld on pipe cap thst is trimmed, and spread to accomidate the ring gear.
I can send pics to who ever wants them, but I can't post cause Im po'. :flipoff2:
-Jeff Briggs
Originally posted by Jtisdale
I That metal is so friggin thin that I'd love to replace it with something more substantial? I will more than likely just have the hole fixed and tack weld the new diff guard on but I thought I'd see if anyone had any creative ideas.
Johnathan
This happened to Ben Mitchell and possibly Micheal Slade.
Ben got a diff cover from the UK that was like a large pipe pipe cap ( I forget the vendor ) and Mike actually used a pipe cap of some type... you get the trend here... also try migging it with a patch on almost the lowest setting, just make sure its clean..
I've welded on the diff successfully before
TomW
Old Scout 05-17-2002, 12:19 AM Originally posted by JSBriggs
Old Scout started a thread a few weeks ago about adding weld on pipe cap. I sent him a few pic's, maybe he'll post them, but it is basically an 8" weld on pipe cap thst is trimmed, and spread to accomidate the ring gear.
I can send pics to who ever wants them, but I can't post cause Im po'. :flipoff2:
-Jeff Briggs
SEARCH! :flipoff2:
I did!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43031
Originally posted by Jtisdale
Yeah, thats the lesson I learned...weld em on. The front I never worry about because it will not pass by the panhard rod if it gets snagged. I even had the rear on a "leash" because it was always gettin pulled off. Just so happens I've got a new SG one on the bench cause the old one looks more like a trapazoid than a circle now!
Johnathan
Yup, ya gotta tack weld em on, also not all diff protctors are up to the task, I went on a double wammy weekend a few years back with some other hard corew rover folk: the rubicon ( a favorite of myne ) followed by the Fordyce trail.... talk about pretzelled front diff gaurd ( mostly the fordyce! ).. I may have pic of the poor thing laying around, along with pics of Charles's D90 floating doen the Fordyce River! :D
TomW
Rover Addiction 05-17-2002, 08:57 AM now I'd like to see the floating D90....
Pics, Pics, PICS!!!
JSBriggs 05-17-2002, 04:13 PM Try here for the SS rover pic.
http://www.fluentnet.com/lr/fordyce/fordyce.html
-Jeff
Bodgerover 05-17-2002, 04:18 PM I dunno what you are talkin about when you say sewer cap [sewer caps here are flat inch thick steel about 3 1/2 feet in diameter] - but I do know cheap :D
A guy in my club has access to the rounded ends of some type of decomissioned pressure cylinder. Might be a gas welding tank that is past its used by date? They happen to be the exact same diameter as a rover diff cover - he cuts them off and welds them over the original - they are about 6mm thick [? haven't actually measured it] and they can take a good bashing.
He has done them in the past for guys in the club and they have had no problems since - no extra diff guard needed.
I asked him to cut one in half for me and weld it on like a traditional diff guard - but if I did it again I would cut the old one off completely and weld the replacement on - unfortunately the diff guard style collects heaps of mud and water - at the time I was aiming for quick AND cheap...
I have photos of it if someone wants to post them
dick
Oh yeah - don't need that fill hole in the front - got one in the back of the diff as well... lose it.
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