What brand Fire Extinguishers are considered "Best" and most reliable?

And will a normal Dry Chemical Extinguisher work good w/out harming/ruining everything under the hood or other places onthe vehicle? Halon is a LOT $ :eek: and I would prefer to have 2-3 Extinguishers.

Looking for some help/info here.

THanks
-Todd

We got a ColdFire ayatem from DJ Safety. It uses an alo based chemical that chills the fire (and more importantly, your skin) and is safe for the car, you, and the enviornment. No, it's no cheap at $450 for the system we chose but we figure the "insurance" is the best value in fire protection out there. We have one nozzle directly over Becca's head and the other directly over the back of the engine so it hits the tranny, fuel system, and engine together.

From what I've seen in ways of "systems" $450 is NOT BAD for a system like that. How long does the system "stay on" (spray for) that you guys got?

My concern with the HALON was the $200 price-tag and only 15-25 seconds of spray... sure doesn't seem long enough to put out the fire. So I was thinking 2 atleast, 1 inside 1 in the back and possibly another mounted in the engine compartment... and at around 200 a pop that adds up QUICK. Anyway, i`ll keep shopping :)

If the normal ABC $15 chemical ones wont harm electric components to bad I think they will be fine... Iguess I need to talk to a fire dept. and see what "damage" the chem. ones can do to an engine/plastic/etc.

Here's the 10lb ColdFire system (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-lb-Coldfire-Foam-Complete-System_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107069QQihZ013QQ itemZ230003402430QQtcZphoto) minus the brackets, and remote cable.

Not a bad price for such a large system.

You could probably rig it up with a ball valve to control the spray even more. Turn it on, then turn the ball valve on to the area needing the surpressent or do it backwords... on = all on, if you want to turn some places OFF turn those ball valves (2 or 3 max).

Thanks! I'm going to look into this system more.

Once any of these fire system bottles are activated, the seal is broken and they are expended. I can't say about using a ball-valve. It may work but I'd do some serious reseach before trying something like that.

Also, Halon is illegal in he US after Dec 31 of this year...or so I have been told by numerous people.

Regarding spray time...this system is the same that the big desert trucks are running. If it's big enough to make them comfrtable, then my two nozzles on on bottle compared to their multiple nozzles on one bottle should handle things...It's one of those scenarios I hope we never have to test but I'd rather have the insurance for Becca's health and the simple fact that I couldn't afford to replace this crawler.

As I understand it, Halon sales will be illegal, but owning it is OK. You might have to visit Mexico for a refill, tho.

On a stripped down competition buggy, with a fire system on the fuel cell and driver, and an electrical shutoff to the battery, anything left that is burning can be handled by hand-held extinguishers, which the rules also require.

An onboard system seems like it would help you get on top of a small fire before it really got going, regardless of what there is to burn.

Randii

What handheld ones are you guys using?

Dry Chemical?
I'm still trying to research on what kind of damage this stuf does to electrics, plastics, etc...

-Todd

dry chem...the smallest ones I can find. Enough to put out a small fire on her rig...if it's any bigger, she'll just pull the safety lanyard and hit the big button that says DJ Safety and we'll see just how their system really works. Word is, she'll come out with softer skin from the aloe based chilling agent. :cool2:

Is the back handspring part of the escape or is there a quicker manuever? :laughing:

Sodium bicarbonate aka Dry Chemical(1 type) fire extinguishers aka baking soda aka bread soda.

Sodium Bicarbonate is bad for computers and basicaly any electrical system for your rig... because thermal or static shock, nasty residue and will conduct electricity and short out stuff, blow stuff, etc, etc. Not to mention corrosive to AL.

--------- Copy / Paste -------

When to use (or not use) Dry Chemical Extinguishers?

Dry chemical extinguishers can be quite corrosive to metals such as aluminum and are also potentially abrasive. ABC extinguishers are much more corrosive than BC extinguishers because the ammonium phosphate agent can undergo hydrolysis to form phosphoric acid and because the molten agent flows into minute cracks.

For this reason, dry chemical ABC extinguishers are not recommended for use on aircraft or electronics such as computers, MRI scanners, and scientific instruments. Boeing has stated in a service letter "Dry chemical extinguishers can cause extensive corrosion damage to airplane structure, electrical systems, and electronic equipment...Dry chemical fire extinguishers should only be used for airplane firefighting if there are no other extinguishers available and there is imminent danger to property or personnel."

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FE-36TM (Hydrofluorocarbon-236fa or HFC-236fa) is another "clean agent" replacement for Halon 1211. This DuPont-manufactured substance is available commercially in Cleanguard® extinguishers. The FE-36 agent is less toxic than both Halon 1211 and Halotron I. In addition, FE-36 has zero ozone-depleting potential; FE-36 is not scheduled for phase-out wheras Halotron I production is slated to cease in 2015. A 100% non-magnetic CleanGuard model is now available (see the warning box below).

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Info about ColdFire which was mentioned previously (http://www.fm200.biz/coldfire.htm)


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I think I'll be getting two handheld/2.5lb FE-36 (http://www.safetyemporium.com/ILPI_Site/WebPagesUS/detail.htm&&2eiBpe0obDuox2NvxMpoLGxolobo24laSkSall_aT_a?09626)

And then possibly a complete coldfire system like the one (http://www.safetyemporium.com/ILPI_Site/WebPagesUS/detail.htm&&2eiBpe0obDuox2NvxMpoLGxolobo24laSkSall_aT_a?09626) on ebay.

These seem to be the safest ones for human usage and keeping repair time and other damage to a minimum.

I may throw on a better "A" type unit ($20 or less anyway) for campfire protection or any other type of fire categorized in that.

Any new systems people are using... been a while and I`m just now needing to get my setup done.

Halon is not illegal to use own sell or have, they just can't make anymore.
What is out there left over is way $$$.

Are you looking for an auto system fir life safety or just to put out the truck if it heats up.

For cost, you cant beat good old CO2 for an engine fire.Like Halon you don't want to use it in an enclsed area. but under the hood works good.

Another inexspensive extinguisher is the old 2 1/2 gallon pressure water can.
You add water and air pressure from a compressor and your ready to go again.
Add a little afff foam and you can even put out a tire.

The fire deparmnt can have a few to look at at most of the Hannibal Rocks events. I'll even let you use 1 of the water cans to try there.

I also forgot to mention magnesium fires. No water you need a class D extinguisher. Not engine freindly

Halon is not illegal to use own sell or have, they just can't make anymore.
What is out there left over is way $$$.

Are you looking for an auto system fir life safety or just to put out the truck if it heats up.

For cost, you cant beat good old CO2 for an engine fire.Like Halon you don't want to use it in an enclsed area. but under the hood works good.

Another inexspensive extinguisher is the old 2 1/2 gallon pressure water can.
You add water and air pressure from a compressor and your ready to go again.
Add a little afff foam and you can even put out a tire.

The fire deparmnt can have a few to look at at most of the Hannibal Rocks events. I'll even let you use 1 of the water cans to try there.

I also forgot to mention magnesium fires. No water you need a class D extinguisher. Not engine freindly

I was going to go for the `pull-on` style like Dustin was talking about, but now I think I just want to get a couple hand helds. I`m thinking 2 for each roll cage bar for outside easy access and 2 for inside the front cab area.

I've been looking for c02 but all I can find are rather large. Do you have a good source for c02?

Since it will be used outside, in a non-enclosed vehicle I think c02 should be safe as long as I don't blast someone in the face ;)

-Todd

Ever since doing our testing with the Cold Fire in-car system...we're sold that this is the way to go if you're using it to save your life.

Add to it the hand-helds for spot fires, and you're covered.

Ever since doing our testing with the Cold Fire in-car system...we're sold that this is the way to go if you're using it to save your life.

Add to it the hand-helds for spot fires, and you're covered.

Thanks.

Todd:

I will try and talk to some of our folks next week an let you know

C'mon guys, do a little research. The interweb is your friend.

Halon is so way gone as a realistic option. It's coldfire or Dupont FE-36. Halon kills the ozone which is why it's no longer an option. Hasn't been for many years in the IT industry. Dry chemical extinguishers are not only harmful to mechanical and electrical systems, they are an irritant to humans as well....

$400 at Jegs and uses Dupont FE-36 which is much better than halon.

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/386RC1000DTS.jpg

A simple pull of a cable sends space-age DuPont FE-36 to a specially designed nozzle to snuff out the fire. Once activated, the system discharges completely, and it won't obscure your vision when you need to get out of the car fast. Plus, it leaves no residue. Firebottle is the only rechargeable system on the market and comes complete with a mounting bracket, engine and cockpit nozzles, PVC-lined stainless steel cable, and anodized actuating head.
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