ok I have big troubled problems We put a new slave in this 92 chevy 350 and have been trying to bleed the clutch with no luck. As soon as you start the truck I can shift gears one time but as soon as I try to shift for the second time it wont shift at all. If I turn the truck off and start it back up right away it is there again. I cant figure this out can any one please help

The clutch is not fully disengaging. When you shut it off, the input comes to a stop along with the motor so you can get it into gear once. As soon as you start it and let the clutch out, the input spins, and when you push the clutch back in, it doesn't stop because it's dragging. It must be bad if you can't even get it into one of the forward (sycronized) gears. I can't help you on bleeding the hydraulic throw-out system though. I've only got old junk with mechanical linkages, and I've never screwed with a hyd. setup.


Edit: You might want to check and make sure you are using the correct slave cylinder for your clutch master cylinder. If they are not matched (for volume), you will not get proper function. For example, if you installed a slave that has a larger displacement than your master, you would not get sufficient travel at the clutch fork to fully disengage the clutch. Just something to check.

My brother had the same problem with his Ford Ranger... I hate hyrdo clutches, but I am now experienced in that field... 9/10 it is your clutch.

You said you put in a new slave?? Did you look at your clutch? If you can't get it into another gear, one side of your clutch is gone. I have seen it twice.

Correction: My brother had about a 1/4 inch left of clutch on one side, and 7/16" on the other side, so it wasn't so much the clutch...

You do have a manual for it, right?? Bleeding the clutch is way different from bleeding brakes. Your manual should say "To bleed clutch: Pump the clutch pedal 15 times, release for 1-2 minutes. Repeat 3-5 times. Then release the slave bleeder until all air has been released." It is a one person job.

Why did you change out your slave?

get access to all data and go thru the proper procedure to bleed the clutch. otherwise you're just gonna bang your head against the wall. i assume it's the plastic slave without a bleeder, right?!

This may help. On the resivior cap on the master there should be a vent hole. Remove the cap,take out the rubber seal, put cap back on, open the bleeder on the slave and gently blow air through the hole. That should push out any traped air. This has worked for me.

So I have tried all of the above and am still haveing problems. Could it be that the resavoir is bad. It all worked on friday I changed motors and put everything back together and now this has happened. Anyone have any ideas again. Thanks Chris

so did you print out the proper procedure to bleed the hydraulic system from alldata?!

Try this, it worked for me on my '93. Remove the resevoir cap, remove the slave from the bell,line up the slave rod,and manually push the rod all the way in, hold slave while assistant 'gently' pushes clutch peddle to extend slave rod.Repeat,install. This worked when I swapped engines,and when I changed master cylinders. Might help, later

I'm fighting the same problem right now. Driving me insane.

Haven't found a "trick" that has worked yet.

New slave, master, clutch, Throw out bearing.... It all started with a motor swap. Replaced the clutch while I was there. Somehow screwed up the master cylinder (it locked up). Then I broke the slave by tightening the bleeder too tight.

Now everything is new and I still believe I have air in the system. Followed the directions, tried the tricks, no luck.

'95 1/2 ton 4x4 with 350 by the way.

so does the system in question have a bleeder on the slave or not?

yes it doas. I am still having the same problem. I am going to get a new master and line so then everything will be new

I'm already there and still no luck.

I don't know what else to do. I even asked a few shops and they don't want to touch it either. They say I've done everything right, it's just being a bitch.

This might be a stupid question, but since you said this started with an engine swap, you don't have the line kinked somewhere do you? I suppose it's unlikely since they're probably plastic and would break first but it might be worth checking if you haven't already.

Hearing about this kind of crap always makes me thankful for my good ol' mechanical linkage. At least until I drive over a non-flat surface and have to "float" my foot up and down with the clutch as my frame flexes like a limp noodle...

was the clutch replaced during the engine swap as well?

I am waiting on the clutch they dont have one in so they had to order it so when it doas come in all of it will be new and I will try from scratch once again. This has been driving me nuts and holding me up and the other chevy that is sitting in my back yard along with my mayers manx that I am restoring thanks Chris

"throwing parts at the problem" might not solve it. the first thing you need to do is to figure out what's wrong with your system.

so let's start with the basics:

what components of the truck were changed since this problem occured?

when did the problem start?

so we put a new master clutch new slave in we put a new moter in the truck it worked fine with old moter and since we replaced the moter in went out. The guy who owns it insited on bleeding the line when I didnt think that it needed it never before have I had to bleed a line but he insisted on it and beings it is his truck I said what ever and now this

This might be a stupid question, but since you said this started with an engine swap, you don't have the line kinked somewhere do you? I suppose it's unlikely since they're probably plastic and would break first but it might be worth checking if you haven't already.

Yep checked that.

was the clutch replaced during the engine swap as well?
Yes, Old one wasn't bad but I did while I was in there.

I believe that the master cylinder screwed up in the first place by it being pushed in when the engine was out. I didn't do it but I think it might have happened by my help.

It feels too soft, like there is still air in the line, but I could be wrong. My next bet is to find a similar truck and measure the stroke that the slave is throwing. If the slave is stroking as far as one that I know works, then it has to be in the clutch itself. If the stroke is too short I'm back to bleeding.

are there any better ways to bleed it?

Best luck I have had with bleeding these systems when they are being a pain in the ass. Unbolt you master cylinder (leave it in vehicle lines attached) with the rod pointing down wedge the back of the master cylinder against firewall/fender and release bleeder valve and push master cylinder rod in, close bleeder and repeat as neccesary.The reason these are such a pain in the ass is the master cylinder sits at an angle which will not allow the air to be forced out of the master. By bleeding this way the line is in a position to allow the air to be forced out and down to the bleeder. Give that a shot.

Well did it fix it or are you still fighting it? Post back up with your results:confused: .

I haven't got to mess with it yet. been working 14hr days.

I was going to try that (pull the master off the firewall and try new angles) but I wasn't sure which way would help. Plus I think that would take more than one person so I gotta line up some competent help!

I tried driving it around for a little while thinking maybe the vibrations and motion would help but no luck. (It will start with it in gear but surges like it had an automatic)

so has anybody looked up the proper procedure to bleed this system on their alldata?!

you guys are wasting an awful lot of time just "throwing ideas at it".

To satisfy orange all data says to unbolt slave cylinder and hold slave so bleeder is at top. Then have someone depress the clutch pedal, while clutch pedal is pressed all the way down release bleeder screw until air has escaped, retighten bleeder and perform steps till air has been removed from system. Then refill master cylinder.
Sometimes this works, but as I stated earlier the problem lies with the master cylinder angle, without the master cylinder sitting in the proper position air will never fully escape the master cylinder.I have messed around with a lot of these systems and either removing the whole system and bench bleeding it with everything sitting in the proper position/angle the air will not fully come out. Just my .02 for all that worth (which is @ .02:laughing: )

my master on this 92 doas not sit at a angle. I have bleed it to where there is a clutch and then when it sits for more than an hour its mush again. so there for that would mean there is still air trapped some where? thanks for your help Chris

^ that sounds to me like you have a bad master cylinder or some other equipment problem.

I have tried bleeding it with the slave cyilnder at all angles. I'm confident that the air is out of it. I haven't tried the master cyilnder at different angles yet.

My next step will be to either measure or try angleing the MC. Thanks for the ideas, I'll get back if it works.

wow, I've never had a problem like this bleeding my clutch, I've always just done it like bleeding brakes, and had no problems