I am looking for info on what exactly is in the D50 TTB. I am under the impression that the solid D50 is d44 sized R&P, but d60 size shafts and joints? Is this correct, or way off base. Is the D50 TTB similar? The reason I am asking, is I just got screwed on ebay. Bought a '87 f350, which turned out to be a '86. The pics never showed the axle, and it is my fault for not getting better pics, but the hubs appeared to be D60, so i bought it... Anyhow, it was cheap enough I will make most of my money back in scrap steel, but I am considering useing the D50 TTB on my new bronco project. If the shafts and all in the D50 are no different than the D44 TTB, I will just swap the outers to get my 8 on 6.5 lug pattern, if the shafts and ring gear are any stronger, I will swap the whole critter, that is unless I stumble across a D60 in the winter for a reasonable price. Thanks for any info you might have :)

Later,
Jason

A dana 50 is a 9" ring gear, whereas the 44 is 8.5".

The D44 is 8.5" in diameter. I think the D50 is 228mm (or 229) which is 9" in diameter. Could be wrong about that, I've seen more than one number. 228 (or 229 can't read it) is stamped in my D50 solid front. 248 is stamped in the new d60 housings, 248mm is 9.75 inches.

USgear lists the d50 as 8.5"?

Places that actually sell D50 gears have a different part number for the d50 gear sets`.

so in technical break down. its basically a ford 9 with dana 60 outters. same as sunray or spidertrax?

From what i am finding today doing google searches, is the ring gear is 9" as said above, and the long shaft has a larger joint up by the third. Other than that, what I am reading says that shafts are the same as the D44 ttb. I have not found any info on the stubs and outers, the hubs are identicle to my 79 d60 in my buggy, but I have no idea what the stub spline count on the TTB axle is. If it is 30 spline stub, that is cool, but my guess is it is a D44 TTB stub with a special 19spline(?) lockout...

Later,
Jason

The hubs & stubs are 30 spline, but so are the inner shafts, and have neckdowns similar in size that stock D44 shafts have.
The axlejoints are unique to that axle (not sure the Spicer #). They are in between the size of D44 joints and D60 joints (and would probably place somewhere between them for strength as well). They do use external clips on the u-joint caps though (like on driveshafts), so you won't see the cap-spitting problems common on 44s.

Overall its stronger than the 44, but nothing close to a 35 spline D60.

That 50 could be made quite strong if someone made alloy shafts for it, but I've yet to see any TTB offerings from anyone yet myself.

A little more info I have found today, the D50 TTB uses spicer 1350 ujoints with full circle external clips, where as a standard D60 joint is spicer 1480 with internal c clips. The body size is identicle between the two joints, but the spicer 1480 has 1.375 journals, and the 1350 joint has 1.18 journals. Makes the 1350 a bit weaker, but still a pretty tough joint. The main thing I find of interest, is that there is room in the knuckles for the spicer 1480. I am really tempted to see what it would cost for a machine shop to make me some square to round tube adapters, cut off the D50 innter knuckles with a few inches of the square tube, weld adapters in and build a front D60 with them. I have a plethora of rear D60's around, It might be a uber cheap way to come up with a front D60. What do you think, anyone tried this? There are shit loads of the D50 TTB stuff in the junkyards, and it is considered basically worthless, what do you think?

Later,
Jason

I've been kicking the idea around of doing something similar, just to be different. Being as how the D50 TTB center section is essentially a drop out third member (bolts into the axle), and is a self contained unit, I was thinking about using it to build some sort of hybrid front axle with a drop out third member. A while back I saw a pic of someone who had taken a D50 TTB and installed a solid square tube on the passenger side (instead of the hinge setup), essentially creating a square tube solid front axle, with a removeable third memeber. It was done rather cleanly and was pretty neat. I'd love to find the pics of that.

I would like to see it as well, any idea what the guy did for shafts? If you dig up the pictures let me know.

Later,
Jason

The only thing good a TTB dana 50 IMO is the Wheel hubs, and wheel bearings, because they swap over to a 60.

I'm currently constructing a solid D-50 housing from a TTB 50.

I'm using 30 spline Sup Duty 50 inner shafts (1480) and 30 spline pre-SupDuty stubs (1480). They require a bit of grinding on the inner knuckle surface to clear.

In my rendition, the third member becomes fixed, and a cover is added to access the R&P. I needed to weld to the third to ensure housing rigidity in my application.

You could make it 35 spline rather easily by broaching the side gears of an ARB to 35 spline. Jason Bunch at Tri-County gear did several of these, though word is, he is not longer doing this service. Then I would use SupDuty 60 shafts.

FullSizeBronco.com

The subject of the D50 TTB's has been covered extensively, specially swapping parts from the D50 to D44 TTB (what to use, not to use, what works best, etc.)

I'd post links to specific posts but I really don't have time right now (I'm at work).

I'm currently constructing a solid D-50 housing from a TTB 50.

I'm using 30 spline Sup Duty 50 inner shafts (1480) and 30 spline pre-SupDuty stubs (1480). They require a bit of grinding on the inner knuckle surface to clear.

In my rendition, the third member becomes fixed, and a cover is added to access the R&P. I needed to weld to the third to ensure housing rigidity in my application.

You could make it 35 spline rather easily by broaching the side gears of an ARB to 35 spline. Jason Bunch at Tri-County gear did several of these, though word is, he is not longer doing this service. Then I would use SupDuty 60 shafts.

Any pics of your project so far?

Thanks,
Jason

FullSizeBronco.com

The subject of the D50 TTB's has been covered extensively, specially swapping parts from the D50 to D44 TTB (what to use, not to use, what works best, etc.)

I'd post links to specific posts but I really don't have time right now (I'm at work).

Thanks, I will check it out.

Later

Any pics of your project so far?

Thanks,
Jason

I can't find my older pics, and I haven't worked on this in about 8 months (roofing my house). I'll post new ones in this thread when I get back to this project.

I can't find my older pics, and I haven't worked on this in about 8 months (roofing my house). I'll post new ones in this thread when I get back to this project.

You've been roofing your house for 8 months??? :eek: You must have a huge house :D

When you get time, post them up, I am asking similar questions over on the FSB board now and am getting some interesting info.

Later,
Jason

You've been roofing your house for 8 months??? :eek: You must have a huge house :D

When you get time, post them up, I am asking similar questions over on the FSB board now and am getting some interesting info.

Later,
Jason

I had some issues.....like rotted trusses, etc. :D

Oh, and I'm slow. :D

someone out there would rather buy a D60 than try to build a D50...


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470948


and get a sterling 10.25 in the deal for the rear...along with lots of other parts..

There a few guys at the dieselstop.com (in the 6.9L IDI forum) that have built solid-axles from the ttb. I think its a great idea if you are trying to fix the TTB50 that's already in your truck, or you get the parts for free.

Will D50 TTB outers from the knuckles out fit onto a Super Duty solid housing D50 to convert it from unitbearing metric bolt pattern to standard 8 on 6.5" ???

no

Different ball joint or knuckle dimensions or what?

Thanks