I got a set of toy axels and I was wondering if there is a cheap way of doing a rear disc conversion for it any info would help
Thanx in advance
Chubby
p.s. did a search but want to hear from some one who has done it and what their thoughts are

One comment I recall regarding this swap is that it is overkill. The drum brakes found on the Toy rear axle are reputed to be plenty strong for the likes of our little Sammies. Maybe you have other considerations though? If you do want to know more, try a search on the Toy board.

Do you have the axles in your rig yet? If ya did, you would know that the stock Toy brakes work like no other.:)

I don't have them in yet but I want to be able to play in the mud and with drums mud builds up alot so I want discs in the rear for the simple reason they are less to take care of.
But the reason I posted this was to hear from some one who has done it and to hear what they think and what they would have done different if they could do it again.
Anyone can tell you how to do something, That's the easy part of it. The hard part is find all the little thing that go wrong after 6 months of use.
Chubby:smokin:

awww newbie! dont get too upset, theys just tryin to tawlk you outa a bad Idear! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
newbie salute!!!

I tried to look into what it would take, and it takes more greebaacks than I have to have a bolt on conversion, and if you dont like bolt on, then you probably wouldnt be asking the question now would you?!

Hay Chubby1 I am doing the disk brake converstion to my toys and so far it's cost me about 300.00. I have the roters, calipers, pads, brakets ect. If you want to do it cheeper you can make the brakets I didn't have time. I am sure that the drums are strong but they are a pain in the ass to work on. IF you want my 0.02 the rear disk is not hard to make and if your going to run mud that is your best bet.

DemoMike as far as this up grade being over kill isn't every thing we do to our rigs suppose to be over kill???? :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by FLEXYSAMMY

DemoMike as far as this up grade being over kill isn't every thing we do to our rigs suppose to be over kill???? :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Flex, I think there are some Currie 9" Ford axles floating around here with your name on 'em.:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/discs.html

Originally posted by Chubby1
I want to be able to play in the mud and with drums mud builds up alot so I want discs in the rear for the simple reason they are less to take care of.Those are the two reasons I am going to go rear discs on my Toy. Stopping power isn't a big one in my book - IFS Toy rear drums are big enough that disc's arent a big improvement in that category.

Also, I was dragging a Z71 out of a ditch and the strap broke and shot under my rig. Bye-bye- parking brake. Worse yet, the parking brake is what adjusts rear brakes. :(

Toy drums suck in mud. The adjusters never work correctly afterward unless you pull the drum and shoot them clean & re-lube them.

That, and why would I want to take all that crap off to work on the third member and what not, when I could just undo 2 bolts on the caliper, and not have to bleed the SOB afterwards?

You can do rear discs on a Toy (dunno about on a sammy w/ toy axles) for about $150 if you're careful. The big ticket items are having the chevy 1/2ton rotors turned to 4.125" centers to fit over the hub, and getting a hold of brake lines which will fit. I'd have a rubber one made with the proper fitting for the caliper on one end, and a 10mm/1.0 fitting on the other which was about a foot long. SO you'd get something like what crash is doing:
http://www.pnw4x4.net/crash/thetoy/4-3swap/43swap111.jpg

Here's a link to the thread where he did this (on page 4, which is where the link points), along with a hundred other disgustingly clean projects at the same time: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37952&pagenumber=4

EDIT: ROKTOY's page (wrote the off-road.com article)... http://www.off-road.com/toyota/discs.html

Originally posted by Dr. Evil


disgustingly clean projects


:D bahaha




after my last mud bogging, my rear (samurai) drums have never quite recovered, despite as good a cleaning as i could give them after the trip home. :(
discs live. :D

Yes, Dr.Evil, it can be done cheaply, but then you have to spend 2-300 bucks on a t-case e-brake, unless I'm missing something in the conversion...

And, at most of the organized trail rides I do, line locks are not allowed as e-brakes.

Originally posted by dangerber
Yes, Dr.Evil, it can be done cheaply, but then you have to spend 2-300 bucks on a t-case e-brake, unless I'm missing something in the conversion...

And, at most of the organized trail rides I do, line locks are not allowed as e-brakes.

What about a anchor?:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

All right first off I would like to say thanx to everyone's info but Now the real problem what to do with my e brake. Is there any way of not getting a line locker and hooking up my hand brake and some how using that. Remember this has to be street rig so it will have to pass inspection.
any suggestions
Chubby:smokin:

Originally posted by Chubby1
All right first off I would like to say thanx to everyone's info but Now the real problem what to do with my e brake. Is there any way of not getting a line locker and hooking up my hand brake and some how using that. Remember this has to be street rig so it will have to pass inspection.
any suggestions
Chubby:smokin:


Wilwood or Subaru etc. type caliper that has a mechanical actuation versus hydraulic.
requires either an additional caliper bracket or a custom bracket that would encompass both the primary caliper and the "spot" or E-brake caliper as well.
just a suggestion?

surely SOMEONE over on the Toy board has swapped drums for discs and needed to have "legal" E-brakes too?:emb:

Caddy Elderodo Calipers have the e-brake, and they sould hold good enough for a ZUK:D

I just put all pro's kit(after waiting a fucking eternity for the brakets) on my rear axle. Sure, it costs $ and you will eventually need a t-case e-brake, but as stated before the benefits are awesome especially for those who can't seem to stay away from the muck! Don't t-case brakes pass inspection? Just turn the bitch into a trail rig and say fuck it and be done with it!

This may help... or not:flipoff2: it's kinda long.

Even though I'm putting a set of FJ60 axles under my sami, the info still applies to the yota truck axles.

On my rear axle, the drum backing plates, drums, and e-brake cable brackets were rusted out, trashed & broken. After pricing out replacement parts:eek:, i decided to save some money and just put disc's on it.

After using the search and doing some research, i decided that $120 for just the brackets from TSM doesn't exactly fit the discription of saving money, and the FJ60/62 housing end is different than the FJ40 and miniT that you can get just the bolt on brackets for ~ $60 for...

Well.....If you don't mind welding a bracket on, Check out A & A manufacturing. I got mine from them, bargain!:D
I paid $7.77 each for part # AA-113A
It fits the commonly used gm calipers including the caddy/olds.
What i got can be found here (http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/index3.html)
Scroll down till you find the part #. It will be figure A.

I plan on doing a full write up with pics some day when i get it all together. Here is a parts list of what i will be using. I will have under $200 total in it.

88-9? GM 1/2 ton 4x4 reg cab front rotors ~$25-$30 each at your local chain.
Machined center hole to fit end of axle - free, pal did it for me.

Caliper brackets ~ $20 including shipping.

79-85 OldsToronado/CaddyEldorado rear calipers - $20 each at the u-pull it. Not too bad a shape, just need a quick sand blast and new pads.
If you have to buy them new or can't use the ones you get from the u-pull it, prepare to get bent over.

Set of lifetime pads ~ $15-$20 at your local chain.

Short rubber flex line from caliper to axle hard line.
Raybestos part# BH 38149 bolts on-
$11.99 each here at advance auto/parts america (http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHPARTNUMBER&MfrPartNumber=BH38149&DestinationPage=SelectParts.asp)

Or, you can use a stock samurai front caliper flex line. They have a 10mm banjo fitting that bolts right on the caliper, the other end plugs right into the yota hard lines.

I plan on using a Yota 4x4minitruck booster - free from a pal
And the master cylinder for a 1 ton 2wd miniT.
AdvanceAuto has it for ~ $55 part#11-2248

MC on a stock 4x4 miniT is 13/16" bore
1ton 2wd is 15/16" bore
FZJ80 is 1" bore - best price i found on that was also at AdvanceAuto ~ $108 part# 12832 - looks to be new, including reservoir.

Master cyl bore size is one of the issues with using the gm calipers, especially the caddy/olds. They need quite a bit of fluid volume to move a big ass piston. Some people say they have no problems with using the 13/16 bore miniT MC... YMMV. For sure the stock sami MC won't push enough fluid.

Shut up, newbie. :flipoff:














































Just kidding. :flipoff2: I think I'll print this out. I'm gonna need it someday. :D :D :D

Great write up Stomper, thanks for taking the time.:beer: :beer:

dude- cool! and cheers for going to the trouble to write that all up!:D :beer: :beer:

Ahh geez, thanks alot guys:flipoff2: for some reason my hat feels too small now...

Anyhow, was no trouble... I had posted on a thread about this over in the Landcruiser section awhile ago. I just copy/paste and edited it a bit for here.

Most of the info is easily available by a search here or on the web.

BUT... there were a couple unique items i discovered when applied to yota axles in a samurai, just figured someone else might find it useful.

Maybe the thread title should get changed to:
"Toyota axle, Rear disc conversion, in a Samurai"

Thanx Alot is a big help
But it is all a little confuzzing to me
hey I am still a newbie in some ways.
When you get thoes pics done do think you could send them to me I think it would help out a bit more so I can put 2 and 2 together
Thanx Chubby
ps this would go great in the faq's thread for the newbies:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: