Home made Notcher

[BRAD D]

Just started on this today.. it will bolt up to a drill press. it will do 90* to 20* Each hole is 2.5* so you will just move a pin or bolt to make the adjustment.

Any pointers before I get this laser or water cut? I just have to make the hold down for the tube (light blue in the pics)



http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f43/leyanh/ScreenShot003.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f43/leyanh/ScreenShot004.jpg

[Todd W]

Just hope your drill press doesn't have much shaft play.
And that last angle would probably hit the top of the drill press since they normaly stick out past the driling area...

I'd be interested in the DXF file to give it a shot on my drill press... looks like it could be made to work.

[BRAD D]

I'd be interested in the DXF file to give it a shot on my drill press... looks like it could be made to work.

I will finish it up soon, but I can send you what I have now if you want?? I just have to make the bottom plate and the top clamp for the tube holder.

Just let me know where to email it to.

[DRM]

That last picture - it'll never cut that angle, the hole saw will just walk away from it.

neat try, but I used a cheap tabletop drill press combined with the clamping system from the Harbor Freight notcher to create a dedicated notching system.

Well, actually I just use the plasma now :p

[BRAD D]

That last picture - it'll never cut that angle, the hole saw will just walk away from it.


True, but for what it takes I will keep the extra holes. You never know if you go slow and the drill press is nice and tight it just might hack it.... probably not but worth a shot.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Neat design, but unless you're going to get all those parts cut for cheap or free, I'd suggest buying a Notch Master from JD2 (http://www.jd2.com/). I tested several prototypes and it's a really nice design. It's totally self-contained (designed to be operated by a 1/2" hand drill), adjusting for different angles is super easy and it can do offset notches. It notches every bit as well as my JMR notcher (http://tool.off-road.com/tool/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=369000) and only costs $250. On a related note, JMR is also going to be introducing a lower-priced version of their notcher.

[BRAD D]

Neat design, but unless you're going to get all those parts cut for cheap or free.

My bud has a water jet.. but all the laser cut parts would only be around 60$ And I like the idea of using a drill press.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

If you can eliminate/reduce the deflection, I guess one really nice thing about that setup would be that you could make really long notches. You'd still bottom-out the holesaw, but if you cut away the tube as you go, you could make much longer notches than a JMR or JD2 notcher. I've never seen a drill-press mounted tube notcher setup that worked very well though.

[BRAD D]

Yeah I worry about deflection.. but it will cost me next to nothing to get cut, so I will weld one up and see how it works.

I could make the whole thing shorter if I used a smaller hole for the pins. (its 1/2" in the drawing)

[randii]

Interesting concept.

Since you've got free waterjet services, maybe add an adjustable swing-arm support for a set of sealed bearings to ride on the outside diameter of the hole saw? Think of it as a steady rest for the drillshaft.

Something like this, but a tension arrangement, instead of compression:
http://www.shopsmith.com/itempics/sjpg/555c/555639s.jpg

I've cobbled together similar thrust bearings when trying to make a bench-top mill take a floor-size cut. :laughing:

Randii

[zachv]

Maybe I am missing it, but is there a tube clamping fixture in those pics? I like the idea and bet it work better on a mill for the better spindle strength and ability to run an end mill- that would allow your steep angles. If you make the shaft for hole saws I would recommend making the thread size for the larger hole saws and then an adapter if you need to use saws with the smaller thread. The only thing that I dislike about my JD2 notcher is the adapter to get from the small threads to the larger ones, which are more common in our applications.

[BRAD D]

Maybe I am missing it, but is there a tube clamping fixture in those pics?


I have not done up the top of the clamp yet, but it will be some V's that bolt down on the tube.

[MigMiester]

Any deflection at all in the drill press or tube mount and your going to bust up hole saws like their going outta' style. A drill press is not ridged enough to mount the hole saw to. That is why all other notchers incorporate their own shaft to mount the hole saw onto. You also should make the setup that holds the tube out of at least 3/8" plate or it will not be ridged enough either. The basic design looks good so far, keep working on it.

[Myanarchy]

You would also end up bending the shit out of the chuck when the hole saw grabbed

[BRAD D]

Ah... this might not be such a good idea then... I thought a drill press would be better:(





Edit.... OK what kind of bearing is in the JD2 notcher??? I might just make the bearing on the thing... Sorry but i like to build junk:flipoff2:

[JESSE_at_TLT]

JD2 TN-100, Notch Masters, The Beast and JMR notchers all use Timken roller bearings. JMR's notcher incorporates an additional seal to keep out all the metal shaving and junk, but JD2 says they have never received any complaints about bearing life without the additional seals.