yager
05-01-2002, 01:21 PM
Hey all i got asked how i did my half cab, flat bed "cutting" on my zuke. I know there are a few (here on pbb) who have dont this so maybe we can gather up all the cool tip and gotchas to make it easier for others.
Sorry the pics are so big ill crop them tonight and edit my post.. I had these posted mainly for my cage to solicite input..
First A pic....
http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/dscf0276.jpg
Here is what i did. First thought long and hard about my plans theres not much turning back once you start.
I decided to cut at the angle seen as it look good with the door angle. I can't tell you the exact measurment cause i just started cutting. But headed straight for the targa/tub joint.
I used a straight edge and marker then used a cut off air tool to make the cut. A recip saw would have been easier in spot but use what ya got. I sliced the small corner bracket up there and added some small welds to reinforce it. To be safe I cut a ways out from the actual floor cut tilli was sure of my plan.
When the tub was off i remove the tail gate and to my surprise it fit in there nice and tight with ~1/8" gap on each side. I then cleaned up the opening so it would set in there smoothly, notching some on the wheel wells. (ill post more pics tonight when i get home) Now the floor pan has a ~3" "shelf" where the tail gate sets on. The rear lower lip on the gate over hangs this shelf edge keeping water outside. I welded it where i could and Ill use some undercoating when i get the inside cleared out or parts.
I thought for a few days on how to cap the corners, ive seen a few nice jobs and a few "ok" jobs. I wanted it to look good but im not a body person and i didnt want bondo to crack off the first hit it took. my first idea was to use the original rear corners, but the raidus of them was too large to fit my working area. So i got a small piece of 22ga from lowes and first tacked it to the tail gate, then pulled it to the side skin i marked it where i could and tacked it other spots. Then as I went i cut off the extra to leave me with the new "corner" the lower part has a nice bend and for that i just did a basic pull/tack... repeat operation. Then cleaned up the wleds a bit (they are not smooth) then some rustolium gloss white. Start to finish 2.5 hours EACH side. But its (will be) waterh tight and look acceptable, welding tin is a pain even on my lowest setting... A pulser gun would have been the bomb. Im pleased with my work as it came out better that I expected.
Plans are take an old soft top with bad corners and make a back cover. Ill use some lexan or vinyl for a small window and snaps to hold it on. I have a bikin top that seals fairly well in the front and it will simply overlap the rear part when its done. It will be fine for the use it sees on road...
Good:
-I now have a small area behind the seats to stash junk out of sight.
-No one else in town has one :-)
Cons:
-The seats will loose some ability to recline (more if back window on)
- I get asked "what is it" alot (and it hasnt moved since i cut it)
- Ill prolly be stoped more often by Johnny Law
have fun cutting ill post more pics later
-yag
Sorry the pics are so big ill crop them tonight and edit my post.. I had these posted mainly for my cage to solicite input..
First A pic....
http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/dscf0276.jpg
Here is what i did. First thought long and hard about my plans theres not much turning back once you start.
I decided to cut at the angle seen as it look good with the door angle. I can't tell you the exact measurment cause i just started cutting. But headed straight for the targa/tub joint.
I used a straight edge and marker then used a cut off air tool to make the cut. A recip saw would have been easier in spot but use what ya got. I sliced the small corner bracket up there and added some small welds to reinforce it. To be safe I cut a ways out from the actual floor cut tilli was sure of my plan.
When the tub was off i remove the tail gate and to my surprise it fit in there nice and tight with ~1/8" gap on each side. I then cleaned up the opening so it would set in there smoothly, notching some on the wheel wells. (ill post more pics tonight when i get home) Now the floor pan has a ~3" "shelf" where the tail gate sets on. The rear lower lip on the gate over hangs this shelf edge keeping water outside. I welded it where i could and Ill use some undercoating when i get the inside cleared out or parts.
I thought for a few days on how to cap the corners, ive seen a few nice jobs and a few "ok" jobs. I wanted it to look good but im not a body person and i didnt want bondo to crack off the first hit it took. my first idea was to use the original rear corners, but the raidus of them was too large to fit my working area. So i got a small piece of 22ga from lowes and first tacked it to the tail gate, then pulled it to the side skin i marked it where i could and tacked it other spots. Then as I went i cut off the extra to leave me with the new "corner" the lower part has a nice bend and for that i just did a basic pull/tack... repeat operation. Then cleaned up the wleds a bit (they are not smooth) then some rustolium gloss white. Start to finish 2.5 hours EACH side. But its (will be) waterh tight and look acceptable, welding tin is a pain even on my lowest setting... A pulser gun would have been the bomb. Im pleased with my work as it came out better that I expected.
Plans are take an old soft top with bad corners and make a back cover. Ill use some lexan or vinyl for a small window and snaps to hold it on. I have a bikin top that seals fairly well in the front and it will simply overlap the rear part when its done. It will be fine for the use it sees on road...
Good:
-I now have a small area behind the seats to stash junk out of sight.
-No one else in town has one :-)
Cons:
-The seats will loose some ability to recline (more if back window on)
- I get asked "what is it" alot (and it hasnt moved since i cut it)
- Ill prolly be stoped more often by Johnny Law
have fun cutting ill post more pics later
-yag