: New LC - Steering question


M.D.
05-02-2002, 08:01 AM
I'm looking at a '79 FJ-40 with facory PS and a 350. The drive train and rear end have ~70K. Tranny/transfer have been rebuilt. New breaks and clutch. When I drove it last weekend, the rig wandered all over the road. At no point would it steer straight. Has any one here dealt with this? What's the solution? Thanks.

cruiserbrett
05-02-2002, 08:11 AM
If you want to keep the stock P/S you will need to check/replace the tierod ends(6 total-lots of parts places have kits for all 6) and rebuild the center arm assembly. I know they can be adjusted, but I have never had much luck just adjusting them. Best bet is a rebuild(~$100). Beyond this, you need to check tire pressures(make sure they are even), knuckle bearings(also a good idea to rebuild and repack them) and the steering box itself. Although the toyota p/S is nice, ultimately it will still have a bit of slop because of the extra tierod ends and centerarm assembly. There are other options for P/S that removes the extra tierod ends and center arm assembly:
Saginaw
Scout
FJ60
And probably others I am forgetting...

Cruiser Ken
05-02-2002, 09:14 AM
I have an 82 with factory P/S. I checked the tie rod ends, center arm and also found about a 1/4" of slop at the pitman to drag link connection. After you check everything else out add some 2.5 degree castor shims to the front. The factory castor is not enough. It will make a big diffference.

BJ On Roids
05-02-2002, 03:23 PM
the king pin bearings, will be shot if its been near water or mud and not cleaned out :eek: my cousins minitruck had the bearings ceased into the knuckle, this was causing detrimental effects to the steering

also the factory steering setup as was mentioned leaves a bit to be desired, with the centre arm assembly and 500 tie rod ends, all adding there little bit of slop ;)

go for some sort of crossover
most of the guys here have saginaw, and there is heaps of tech articles and write pus on the conversion

M.D.
05-04-2002, 07:09 AM
Thanks for your help. Along with the front end issue, the fenders are dented with rust spots. Speedo does not work. There is a hole in the fire wall and it gets warm/hot (engine too far back?) and minor surface rust. The seller is looking to get $7,000. Any thoughts on the deal?

Cruiser Ken
05-04-2002, 08:54 AM
For reference, I bought my '82 FJ40 for $3000. It had a very clean tub, no rust. It had been flopped on the driverside, fender was banged up as well as the front corner of the hard top. Later I discovered a fair amount of bondo on the rear of the hard top as well. Other than that it was straight and rust free. The 40 I bought was all stock and more likely to hold its value. I wouldn't pay anymore than $3k for what you are looking at.

rick d
05-04-2002, 10:53 AM
M.D.

steering has been well answered, although the tie rod kits include 5 pieces (not 6) and the drag link can be adjusted with the "2 cent fix" or replaced with new. The center arm, knuckle bearings, spring bushings, and steering stabilizer should all be checked or replaced (it's 23 years old...). Rims and wheel bearings may also need balance-snugging. A well maintained front end will give 15 years of service. A poorly done one will be a constant nightmare. Unless you want larger than 33" tires, service the stock steering.

Sheet metal:
When buying a late model (esp for $7,000) the tub must be sound. I would not consider a late model w/o solid front floors as a minimum-any rust here is a deal killer. rear channel rust must be minimal. Doors, can be found used but most are rusty-your must be sound. Front shells (brazilian) can be had for $350 each new. rear doors SOL. Windshield frames none new, and few good ones used. Fenders are available both aftermarket (cheap $125 avg) and OEM (about $210-$225 each w/ discount). Hood/bib/aprons/top can be found good in used state.-it's really the tub+windshield frame and amby doors if you want a top-THAT'S THE WHOLE VALUE OF VEHICLE.

If the 350 runs hot, the radiator and or engine placement is poor. Look at the install and see if great-good-medium-poor. Ideally, AL or 4 core radiators are a must with a V8.

$3,000-$5,000 depending on condition, not much less, not much higher. Again, rust is the dominant problem with any cruiser and esp late model (1979+).

cruiserbrett
05-04-2002, 11:18 AM
Oops,
I forgot they were five per kit, and not six...

M.D.
05-05-2002, 05:39 PM
Yeah.... 7,000 seems a bit much. I'll keep looking! Thanks again for all the help.