I was wondering if instead of using a drop or raised bracket for the trac bar if I could make a longer on bar to make up for the lift. If so would this work better or worse?:confused:
Thanks
EBK

you could do this but the lowering bracket on the frame is much easier... just a couple welds and 3 bolts

also u can buy a adjustible trac bar from www.wildhorses4x4.com

Are there any advantages to not using the drop bracket?

No, the Drop-trac bar bracket is the way to go. It helps eliminate/reduce bumpsteer after you lift the bronco. The drag link (if that's the right word for the steering link that connects the pitmarn arm to one of the knuckles.) should be as parallel to the trac bar as possible in order to reduce bump steer. I don't want to explain it, do a search if you're interested.

to minimize steering feedback (bumpsteer) the drag link and trac bar need to move in circular patterns as close as possible to each other, meaning ideally the trac bar will be the exact length and angle of the drag link.

i dont know the measurements of the stock drag link and trac bar, but chances are one of the trac bar mounts needs to be moved to help angle as well as moved to make it longer (ford has a tendency to make them short due to space limitations)

This topic has been beaten to death on classicbroncos.com. I think the consensus is that the WH track bar axle riser bracket is better than the frame drop bracket which tends to rip and tear the frame out with moderate to aggressive wheeling. Intuitively it makes sense considering the forces the track bar experiences.

It depends on how you lift your rig, what steering box, and what you're planning to do with it.

The track bar drop bracket is to be used with a drop pitman arm on a stock box. You may also need one with an F150 box. If you wheel hard, you'd better beef these two up, a lot.

If you flip your tie rod to the top of the knuckles, and the drag link above it (or to it, if that's the case) then you need a rise at the axle, like the one from WH.

Part of what you're doing, is minimizing the angle that these two are at, which has a lot to do with handling. Another part of it is like described earlier, the drag link and the track bar need to be parallel, even better if when you hunker down in front of your rig, the drag link completely hides the track bar.

If you're really wanting to do the 42's you mentioned in your other post, that's getting into the realm of full hydro steering. A mechanical box and hydro assist will turn it for a while, but those are some huge meats, and I'd question the reliability of it on the trails really gettin' after it.

This topic has been beaten to death on classicbroncos.com. I think the consensus is that the WH track bar axle riser bracket is better than the frame drop bracket which tends to rip and tear the frame out with moderate to aggressive wheeling. Intuitively it makes sense considering the forces the track bar experiences.
Agree, rise the axle mount, don't drop the frame mount.

I have a brand new adjustable trac bar that I purchased from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard, and ended up not using it as I went custom.

I will sell it for 50.00 plus shipping. Contains the trac bar and the new bushings.

Thanks for all the help. I don't know if I need the adjustable trac bar yet (trckmagik) but I'll let you know. I just got my 78 D60 yesterday and Now I have to start tearing it down and rebuilding it. I think I'm going to go full hydro on the steering when it's all done and like everyone said go with the axle rise for the trac bar.