i have tried everything to get my 92'CTD to stop better (new calipers,pads,hoses,rotors, re-bled 5 times etc..) and the rear will still lock up before you get good stopping/feel from the front. it has a ton of solid pedal just seems unbalance...and if you reeelly get on it the rear will stay locked for 2 seconds after you let off the pedal:shaking: it has a small block under the master cyl. that the front and rear lines run through with one wire comming out of it, and it has a huge conglomeration of shit above the rear axle that i suppose is the ABS system (that does not work anyway) i was thinking of getting a new master and bypassing everything and putting in an aftermarket proportioning valve for the rear. what do you guys think?

Most guys anymore bypass the ABS valve on the frame above the rear axle, and unhook the Module behind the glovebox. I really don't think you have an ABS problem though, as the rear brakes are usually pretty weak when there is an ABS problem. I think you are on the right track with the valve under the master cylinder, as it is a proportioning valve of sorts. I've never had them stay on longer then the fronts. Does the brake light indicator in the center of the dash come on?

Did you adjust the rod between the booster and the master cylinder? I did this and the rear brakes came on much harder then they did stock, but if adjusted too far the brakes don't fully release. I found this after a test drive, and when I loosened the nuts on the master cylinder the truck rocked back and forth, because the brakes finally released.

Come on over to the www.turbodieselregister.com and look under the first gen forums.

Michael

I would start with ditching the abs valve and adding an adjustable prop valve and see where that gets you. That is the route I will take one of these days. I don't drive my truck enough anymore to keep me thinking much about it.
Travis..