: looking for advice on standard cut dana 44 gears.


bogger
05-02-2002, 03:30 PM
i'm looking to gear my ranger soon, it's a 77 bronco standard cut dana 44 front. I am wanting 5.38 gears in it, but am curious of your opinions on that deep of gears in that axle. Do ya'll think i will have strength issues with the pinion gear since it's standard cut? i'm running 302, c-4 dana 20 also, with a 9" rear. planning on 38" tsl's.

Also, curious of your recomendations on alloy shafts, warn? moser? or others? main question is other, cause i did use search and got hits on warn and moser!! and ctm or OX joints...or other?


thanks a bunch fellas

kevin

bogger
05-02-2002, 07:28 PM
ok reading more and more!!! hehe...damn newbies ehh....though i registered here a long while ago!! LOL, looks like warns and ctms IS indeede the way to go. Ordering from driveline direct? thad sound good? lookin at about $900 for all 4 shafts and 2 joints right?


question still stands as i aint getting hits on what i search for with the gears strength.

Nobody
05-02-2002, 07:56 PM
I don't see too many ring and pinions blow. Even with standard cut gears, the u-joint should let loose first. Of course if you upgrade to warns and CTM's then you should be alright. In that case, I would imagine the hubs would blow before the pinion.

The whole reverse cut, standard cut thing is all relative to which direction you are going..... Standard cut gears will be stronger in reverse. When you're backing up, that's when all the weight gets transfered to the front end.

of course reverse cut have a high pinion, which I think is why most guys run them, not necessarily a strength thing. Nice to get your drive line up out of the rocks.

It it comes down to blowing ring and pinions, then you probably need a 60. I think you'll be fine.

bogger
05-03-2002, 01:11 AM
Originally posted by Nobody

It it comes down to blowing ring and pinions, then you probably need a 60. I think you'll be fine.


I do need one!!! who dont! :) but gonna try this rute! :rolleyes:

alx
05-03-2002, 07:11 AM
imho 538's are to deep you will break the R&P id go 488's fro the little bit of extra strength :flipoff2:
i know you want the crawl ratio but your running an auto and that makes up for alot :smokin: :smokin:




oh and:flipoff2: :flipoff2: welcome you fawkin newbie

FearMe
05-03-2002, 08:25 AM
I don't think I would go any lower than 4.88's. I've seen a lot of Bronco's hold up well with them. Running the C4 with 4.88's and you'll think you have 5.xx but still have the strength. I wouldn't go lower than that.

Another point on the auto. They seem to be much easier on drivetrain components. Unlike a clutch where you can just slam a clutch in and out causing a lot of 'shock' on components, an auto is somoother. Basic physics, it's easier to use hammer to break something than to try and 'push' it in half.

Using that argument you might think you'll be ok with the lower gears. No, when you go to buy your gears compare a set of 44 4.56's and 5.38's. I think you might decide that 4.88's is just about max.

I went from a 435 to a C6 in my EB. The auto is much better. The Atlas helps too:flipoff2:

IronBenderII
05-03-2002, 09:53 AM
Dude, you are right where I was about 6 months ago. Here's my advice, don't spend the money on the 44. Get yourself a 60. It's more, but it's worth it.

Here's what I paid.

Re-gear front end - $1000 (5.13's)
ARB - $650
Warn's/CTM's - $950

I haven't broke my setup yet, but I can't tell you how nice it would be not to have to sit and wait for the famous popping sound.

I'm probably going to sell my setup and go with a 60. Learn from my mistake!

-Jack

bsumner
05-03-2002, 11:24 AM
NOT drivetrain direct, drivetrain warehouse! they are the people with the no questions asked lifetime warranty. basicly the same as 4WP, just with a good warranty.

bsumner
05-03-2002, 11:29 AM
IronBenderII, he's allready got the d44, so there not the extra cost for getting an axle. d44 gears are way cheaper than d60.

so look at this, $250 for gears/install kits, $450 for detroit, $950 for warn/ctm. now if he has to get someone else to install gears thats still more, but thats still alot less.

i know 60's are way tougher, but you have to look at what its being used for. d44 you get less weight and more clearance, less cost.

IronBenderII
05-03-2002, 11:39 AM
If he is willing to do his own gears, that is one thing. Most people want to be sure that it is done right. So they have it done by somebody like GearMan.

You can get a D60 front for $850. Sell your 44 for $200. That brings the difference to $650. Now forget the Warn's/CTM's and that means you're ahead $250. Gears/locker will cost about the same, so they don't count. Cut the 60 down/put on disc brakes - $500 or so. So you're back down $250. But wait, his 44 may not have discs, so maybe not.

Go for the 60!

Rerard
05-03-2002, 11:40 AM
Just out of curiousity why do you wanna go that low? Crawl shouldnt be an issue since you have the auto, and with the 302 power should not be an issue... with a 302 and 38s I would be more worried about strength.

bogger
05-03-2002, 01:33 PM
awesome, this is what i was lookin for...(other than getting talked into a D60..hehe)

The axles i got are 77 bronco dana 44 front and 73 9". I'm planning on getting a f-150 31 spline 9" for the rear cut down, so that makes me wanna lean tword the 60 even more. Big holdup i have with going to fullwidth is i dont wanna rework my front suspension agian, right now, i have the front leaves directly below the frame rails, to close together to work on fullwidths. I would LOVE to go with a set of 60's though. Dont really know all of whats involved in squeezing 15" wheels on a dana 60 either :confused: Plus, if i get the dana 60, no doubt i'll be wanting alloys and ctm's STILL!!!! and be running 44's! hehehe I keep running them same numbers threw my head though, about dana 44 buildup vs dana 60.

back to the subject though, i'm gonna run a rear spool and front lunchbox too. But it's sounding like 4.88 would be better then. I'm stuck on the auto in this truck too, the biggest change that'll happen there is a c-6 vice the current c-4.

oh and ironbender....sooo...you wana sell me your warns and ctm's relaly cheap then right? :flipoff2: :D

bogger
05-03-2002, 01:38 PM
Originally posted by Rerard
Just out of curiousity why do you wanna go that low? Crawl shouldnt be an issue since you have the auto, and with the 302 power should not be an issue... with a 302 and 38s I would be more worried about strength.


didnt see this post when i posted the other reply!

but simple enough answer....i dunno! LOL. Actually, the truck had 3.45's and 33's on it and did perfectly fine, but i want more!! My other rangers, got 4.10 with 33's and a 2.9 5 speed, this truck wantes to race to much when i dont wanna, though i'm sure an auto would fix that!! hehe. The truck is purely trailer trash too, so i figured go as deep as i can without strength issues.


thanks
kevin

IronBenderII
05-03-2002, 01:45 PM
The 15" wheels work on 60's with a tad of grinding on the calipers. If you don't want to go full width, you can get them cut down for a reasonable price and while they are at it they can probably do the other side and correct the castor for your lift.

Warn's and CTM's fora 60? Crazy.

Yeah, I'll sell the Warn's and CTM's for cheap. $2400 and I'll throw in a housing, 5.13's, ARB, DOM tie rod and drag link Heavy Duty Chevy Ends and a thank you card! :flipoff2:

-Jack

bogger
05-04-2002, 12:17 AM
Originally posted by IronBenderII


Warn's and CTM's fora 60? Crazy.

Yeah, I'll sell the Warn's and CTM's for cheap. $2400 and I'll throw in a housing, 5.13's, ARB, DOM tie rod and drag link Heavy Duty Chevy Ends and a thank you card! :flipoff2:

-Jack

hehehehe......warn dont make alloy for the 60 that i know of, but i think someone does! :)

and i think i'll buy new axles and joints then :) hehehehe :beer:

Dennis
06-03-2002, 03:03 PM
Originally posted by IronBenderII
Yeah, I'll sell the Warn's and CTM's for cheap. $2400 and I'll throw in a housing, 5.13's, ARB, DOM tie rod and drag link Heavy Duty Chevy Ends and a thank you card! :flipoff2:

-Jack

Does it have disc brakes also? Are you really concidering this? I may be interested. PM me if you think you're interested. I about to do just about this same thing to mine. Be careful what you wish for :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

IronBenderII
06-03-2002, 03:13 PM
Yeah, it has the disc brakes on it. I wasn't really serious about selling it. I'm not ready to go through the work of the 60 upgrade. I'm tired of working on it and want to drive it for a while!

-Jack

saf-t scissors
06-03-2002, 05:27 PM
Originally posted by bsumner
NOT drivetrain direct, drivetrain warehouse! they are the people with the no questions asked lifetime warranty. basicly the same as 4WP, just with a good warranty.

Uh.... Drivetrain Whorehouse *IS* 4WPW. Just like Pro-Comp is 4WPW.

"Yeah, I bought this Pro-Comp lift 'cause the guy at 4WPW said it was awesome." :rolleyes:

bogger
06-04-2002, 08:42 PM
Originally posted by sclemons


Uh.... Drivetrain Whorehouse *IS* 4WPW. Just like Pro-Comp is 4WPW.

"Yeah, I bought this Pro-Comp lift 'cause the guy at 4WPW said it was awesome." :rolleyes:

So long as they get me a good price and a good warentee on the warns and ctm's, they can call themselves the tooth fariy if they'd like.