Hey guys,

A buddy just bought an '87 Classic for under 3K, so he's into the 'ultra cheap Rangie' attitude.

After riding around in it (tight truck!), I've decided that the factory springs are pretty damn nice when they're broken in.

He wants to fit 35's onto it and do some pretty serious wheeling in it, and isn't afraid to do some 'trimming' here and there. In order to get space for the tires I've been thinking of the following:

1. Retain original springs, add 2 inch spring spacers and get the Rovertym 2 inch body lift

2. Regain original springs, add 2 inch body lift, trim the living shiat out of wings

3. Replace original springs, use 3 inch Rovertym springs, do some trimming

4. Something else (dunno yet...)

Thoughts? Remember, cheap is the key here...

Michael

I'd keep the suspension lift to a minimum to retain the stock drive shafts. 1-2" RTE suspension lift with 2" body lift. Of course, on a <$3K truck the body lift is only if the 1-2" RTE lift and trimming like hell doesn't cut it.

On the RTE site, he doesn't recommend a body lift with stock springs, however, maybe that is just to keep people who would bitch if he said otherwise and it didn't work.

Tom

if you just need clearance to run bigger meats, install a 2" body lift, cut the fenders for aussie rangie spares flares, and run 9.5x34 swampers.


NEXT!! :D

after seeinrg jeffs I believe this is *the* perfect size for a rangie . . . plenny wide for traction, tall enough to get ya most everywhere, and keeps a low COG to boot.

. . . so why am I not doing this? well, this had been my exact plan. I love the low rate of the stock springs - and they flex like mad IMO. but . . .

I found an extremely cheap source for bias 7.50x16's in canada, so i'm going to cheap out with a 1-2" body lift and no trimming to run the tall 'n skinnies. the caveat is that they won't ship the tires, but it's only about a 3.5 hr drive from seattle. The shocks for me are another story, which is why i've been pinging

if i were forking over real money for tires, there's no doubt it would be for the TSL 34's. Q78 would be my next choice.


take a peek at some of the outback challenge RR's - some of the top performers are extremely close to stock . . . and they manage to whup nissan patrols, LC's, etc. etc.

just my .02 :flipoff2:

isaac

2" spacers + stock springs. (spring spacers, not body).

Prolly need to spend on longer shocks.

2" prolly means stock propshafts will survive.

Fit them tires, Trip as required.

Yeah Newbie fawk off:flipoff2:

Cheap and cheerful is my specialty....

Running 2" spring lift - same lb/inch [Kings Springs] and a rangie spares 2" body lift with 34 X 10.5 X 15 Simex Jungle Trekker 2's. Had to cut panels with Rangie Spares flares. No worries - no rubbing. You will need non - standard rims as the stock rangie rims are too inset? Shit I could never work that out - my 7" rims are centred and they only just touch the radius arms on full lock.

Goes well - no probs - no vibrations [other than the tyres] - did blow the rear diff not long after putting the 34's on [as expected] so I now have an ARB - same will happen to the front when it goes - no hurry - have been running 34's for almost a year and it hasn't gone yet.

You can go to 35" with this combo but they will rub the top of the wheel arches on full A. Packing your bumps an inch will solve that. Really cheap bastards just live with it...

I have always thought 9.5's were too skinny for the Rangie - it all depends where you drive but in the mud and soft stuff 10.5 is just right for the rangie's weight.

Happy Bodging
Dick

welcome newbie :flipoff2:

Here are couple of pics of my first Rover from '76. We lifted body about 3" and maybe 1-2" of suspension spacers. It has original springs and fenders are sligthly trimmed. Tyres are Good Year 280/85-16 (about 34-35" tall and about 10" wide) on original Range Rover rims. First pic is taken maybe at 1992 and the other is about two years old.

http://www.teli.stadia.fi/~jjsalone/rankku5.jpg

http://www.teli.stadia.fi/~jjsalone/harju2000-11.jpg

Jare from Finland

1. Retain original springs, add 2 inch spring spacers and get the Rovertym 2 inch body lift

OK, gonna stick my neck out and post my first real contributions :)

I'd go for option 1!! My reasoning is...that even with a suspension lift of some kind the larger tyres are still going to hit the inside of the archs at full 'stuff' but retaining std springs and adding a spacer obviously means that the tyres are now 2inchs further away from the inside top of the wheel arch.

Gonna sit back and awaiting newbie flames :D

Originally posted by Bodgerover
You can go to 35" with this combo but they will rub the top of the wheel arches on full A. Packing your bumps an inch will solve that. Really cheap bastards just live with it...

Basically I'm agreeing :)

I fit 33 x 12.50 with a 2" lift (1" spacer in rear in addition). 4.5" bump stops and a "little" bit of trimming. No doubt, that the bump stops could be in the 3" range if you went with the two inch body lift and run 35x 12.50 (maybe 37" with more trimming). I would definately go with a GCR or similar rim and get the increased track width for stability. I also favor the 15" rim vs. the 16" for the small tire sizes. It really allows a lot more flex of the rubber to grab the rocks (roots, logs, whatever your case may be). I would either stay super skinny with the tires and go 35 to 36" range, or go wide and stay with a low COG and go wide. I like the 33"option, but expect to destry the 10 spline axles and factory CVs. Oh yeah, have him remove the stupid load leveling thing too. I increased rear flex substantially when I took out that 100lb piece of junk.

Way

My fawking newbie opinion is 2" body lift and trimming. Keep suspension mods to a minimum and use the $$ for a rear locker.

For on road handling the soft factory spring rates cannot handle the additional load put on them by raising the center of gravity (body lift). This effectively puts more forces on the corners, thus the springs. I personally felt that the factory suspension was just o.k. around town and on the highway. I really felt that it could have been stiffer and it would have performed better on road. The last thing he should do it put on a body lift, without upping the spring rate on the springs, whether that be with stiffer stock height springs or a lift. Since Mike wants cost effective solutions, it would not make a whole lot of sense to replace the springs with stiffer springs, and replace with factory length, when this vehicle is obviously heading off road. The 3" RTE lift will require driveshaft mods and alignment problems. *IF* he can go with the 3" without changing these, the geometry of the driveshafts and front end will put a pronounced irregular wear on the outside lip of the front tires (especially skinny ones, been there done that).

I suggest 2" lift (RTE) and I would suggest getting stiff springs so that if he wants a body lift and or 3-link in the future he can run one. Keep the stock tires and rims for now. See what he needs. They are flexy and capable out of the box. Go with longer bump stops and if more travel is desired get a body lift and remove the extended bump stops. Replace shocks with Rancho adjustable 9000 series shocks. These will allow him to compensate for future mods through the shock a bit.

Way

Yeah, Rancho 9000's are the defacto standard on any truck around here anymore. He'll get 'em for sure. Longer on front and back.

The RTE spring vs. RTE spring spacer w/stock spring would be interesting to see. I ordered some of the 3 inch springs for my wife's LWB and am lookin forward to getting them on and replacing the OME HD's on her truck. (it's got an ARB, Warn Series 12 winch, driving lights, rack, 235/85/16's, ARB's, etc....). I'm tired of the STIFF ride when empty, although it does ride pretty nice when loaded and towing the trailer.

After we see how the springs handle on her truck, those springs might be a good option for my buddy if the spring spacers w/factory spring combo proves unviable. 'Course all this experimenting kind of goes away from the original goal of doing it inexpensively.

I still think a nice tall super soft spring with the same rate as some sacked out factory springs would be nice.

Michael

One thing he's considering is going to a combination of series and Chevy leaf springs.

He could get rid of a lot of problems doing that, and actually have *more* flex than a 3-link. Don't believe it??? Wait and see my *other* buddies leafsprung 90 inch.

I can send you a pic of the rolling chassis Way to post here.

Later,

Michael

Well, let me start by saying that I am a cheap bastard. I have done many cheap things to my truck (LT230 swap, homemade bumpers, pipe cap diffs etc) but cheap can be done well.

When it comes to road performance I would go with a modest road tire, slightly bigger than stock and do a 2” lift with springs. This allows good ride characteristics and allows room for decent sized offroad tires 33-34”. 35” is pushing it with stock cv’s, as it is I am expecting to pop a cv with my 34’s. I myself think a body lift is a waste of time, as the same results (tire clearance) can be achieved with a sawzall. (or is that SAWZAWL as in FAWK or get it AWN). One other suggestion is to save $ for upgrades, but wait until the original is broken first. Hey I spent good money to get a truck with 10 spline axels, Im not replacing them until they break. As far as rovers go, I think the RR is the most versatile for off road use. The 100” wheelbase if perfect IMHO, and every body panel can be unbolted and replaced with ease.

-Jeff Briggs

This is gonna sound really dumb, but where is the radiator in your picture? I see the winch is tucked waaaaaay in there:confused: Unless the radiator is directly behind the winch and the fan is an ultra slim electrical unit?

Ali

I think the radiator fans you are thinking of Ali, are actually the A/C fans. Take them out, and the tranny oil cooler out, and you have plenty of room for a small 8 or 9K winch between the headlights. Pretty sweet setup actually it looks like to me.

The fan for the radiator is a mechanical one driven off a crank pulley.

Are you thinking of different fans???

M

Yet another Newbie rings in.

U said Cheap.

Don't go above 2" of spring, unless you want to deal with more $$$$ in replacing the props. Cheap to start + more money to fix resulting issues = not cheap.

I ran a long time with OME 2" plus longer shocks and 31's because of cash, and I did quite well.

Remember that tall and skinny on the tires will get you through allot of shiat, but if you go too tall and skinny you will get some serious squirm and handling issues at highway speed with out sway bars on an '87.

IMHO, you could go the spring route first, and then do the body lift after saving the cash for lockers/axels/cv's. The things that can leave you broken on the trail/road are the things that get my attention first. They are also easier to get past the CFO in my house.

:grinpimp:

Originally posted by alia176
This is gonna sound really dumb, but where is the radiator in your picture? I see the winch is tucked waaaaaay in there:confused: Unless the radiator is directly behind the winch and the fan is an ultra slim electrical unit?

Ali

This is old manual geared rover so it dont have tranny cooler. We use two electric fans and winch fits there just fine. Altough it good have more pulling power :p

slade
tell andrew to just start cutting
forget the lift and spacers just cut the body till it clears
then paint it flat black
and put on a "got milk" sticker
it'll be fine:D

Send the pictures over. I am happy to post them up.

Way

Originally posted by Serious One
One thing he's considering is going to a combination of series and Chevy leaf springs.

He could get rid of a lot of problems doing that, and actually have *more* flex than a 3-link. Don't believe it??? Wait and see my *other* buddies leafsprung 90 inch.

I can send you a pic of the rolling chassis Way to post here.

Later,

Michael

Serious one you should get this one together its about time this forum had some leaf spring content to balance all these coil sprung folks.

post as much info as possible cause im leaf sprung through and through and need to see someone elses ideas.