Alright....

I know Full is stronger but I need to know by how much.

If I have a Full Float axle with 1.3 inch diameter shafts how much stronger would this be than the same diamter shafts in a C-clip version?

I'm looking to make a full float hybrid axle from a 9 inch or 8.8 or 12bolt by using 14 bolt ends. I want something that has good clearance with full float strength.

Before anyone says...."why not use a 14bolt and be done with it", The answer is...I don't wanna. I'm bored, need a new project, it's winter in Canada and I gots lots of axles kicking around.

Maybe somebody could tell me how much stronger a full float 14 is over a semi float 14. 20%, 50%, 120%? Anyone?

Thanks

Alright....

I know Full is stronger but I need to know by how much.

If I have a Full Float axle with 1.3 inch diameter shafts how much stronger would this be than the same diamter shafts in a C-clip version?

I'm looking to make a full float hybrid axle from a 9 inch or 8.8 or 12bolt by using 14 bolt ends. I want something that has good clearance with full float strength.

Before anyone says...."why not use a 14bolt and be done with it", The answer is...I don't wanna. I'm bored, need a new project, it's winter in Canada and I gots lots of axles kicking around.

Maybe somebody could tell me how much stronger a full float 14 is over a semi float 14. 20%, 50%, 120%? Anyone?

Thanks

The biggest advantage to using a full-float axle is not the strength, although that is a big & one of the most common reasons. The best reason is that when it breaks, (notice the use of WHEN, not IF), you can pull out the broken piece, bolt on the stub, & get back home. Then you can fix it for real at home since you were unprepared & didn't have a spare shaft with you when you went wheeling.

But to answer you're question, lets say that the material is exactly the same between the 14-bolt & the whatever semifloat axle you have to play with. The 14-bolt shaft is 1.5" in diameter - 100% strong.....

Oh nevermind, just look in the Technical Department (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/)

Most if not all of you're questions can be answered there.

Besides, why are you asking, it sounds like you're going to do what you want to anyways??

Later,

Buddy

You're right. I'm going to build one anyway. I was just wondering how much stronger this axle would be over it's original configuration.

Thanks for the input.

I calculated it out years ago when I was borred in one of my ME classes. There were a bunch of variables but I think I compaired numbers using my small block and dropping the rig on one tire from 3 feet using a 1.5" shaft for both axles. I came up with around 12% stronger.....

Full-floaters your rig is supported by 2 bearings per side, while semi-float only one. And your shaft isn't supporting your rig's weight on a full-floater.

First, all steering axles are full float (fronts, rears, etc.). Semi float is a rear application only. Now, having cleared that up...

By installing a 1.5" shaft into a smaller differential gets you some axle shaft strength, but you only create more leverage/stress on all the other moving parts (carrier, r&p, bearings, etc.) In other words, if you're putting larger axles in a smaller differential in order to run larger tires and not break shafts, I'm willing to bet that you'd be successful... but you may break everything else instead. If you are planning on running the same tire sizes originally "intended" for the differential, then you may achieve a higher level of durability...

Last, if you have all winter, you could make anything damn combination of axles into hybrids, all it takes is time...

As for strength comparison, I have read that the 10.5" FF 14B is 50% stronger than the 9.5" SF 14B - larger ring gear diameter, stronger 2-piece carrier, extra pinion bearing support, full-float load distribution... generally just more beef.

I have the warn full float kit on my 44 rear with cromoly shafts, and from what I've been told, it is stronger than a 60. Not sure if that helps you or not. I know the ring and pinion isnt as strong, but with the bearings supporting the weight of the rig and tires, the axles have much less stress on them. It would be nice to know exactly how much though. Not jacking your thread, but would full float non-cromoly shafts be stronger or less strong than semi float chromoly shafts?

If the stength of a full floater is in the weight carrying category, why do Jeeps need it? A dana 35 can support the weight of a Jeep. On the other hand stronger chromo resists twisting force but is too brittle for bending loads like semi float applications I think. So to get super strong alloys, you'll need floaters, right?

If the stength of a full floater is in the weight carrying category, why do Jeeps need it? A dana 35 can support the weight of a Jeep. On the other hand stronger chromo resists twisting force but is too brittle for bending loads like semi float applications I think. So to get super strong alloys, you'll need floaters, right?

Well, larger tires put more stress on an axle not only in the shaft but also in the bearing. Imagine a 150# tire/wheel combo vs. a 75# combo. When your tire gets bouncing up and down, that force gets transmitted into the axle via either one bearing via and the 1.x axle shaft in a semi-float, or first into two bearings and then into a 2" tube. I'm no ME but I'm willing to bet the spindle of a small full floating rear axle (Dana 60) is significantly stronger than even a 1.5" axle shaft in bending forces.

Plus, the additional benefits are many. Easy to repair axle shaft damage, easy to freespool the rear end, and overall more strength. There is really no reason not to full float except maybe to keep a certain bolt pattern. I don't find any limitation in 8-lug at all, unless you consider more strength and bigger brakes a limitation.

And part of this is that I tell people usually when they are thinking of buying wheels and tires to see whats availible in 16". Their next step might be bumping up to 8lug 3/4/1ton hardware, and since 15" can be a stretch clearing 3/4 ton hardware might as well not buy tires twice.

Before anyone says...."why not use a 14bolt and be done with it", The answer is...I don't wanna. I'm bored, need a new project, it's winter in Canada and I gots lots of axles kicking around.

Thanks


Why not do a wicked shave on the 14 bolt. Machine the ring gear & shave that fawker kanuk style:flipoff2:

Also- if you are going through all the work of aligning & welding spindles on another housing, why not run 35 spline axles? Not sure what the goal of the bootyfabbin is. Lighter weight, strength, or an excuse to drink beer.

Why not do a wicked shave on the 14 bolt. Machine the ring gear & shave that fawker kanuk style:flipoff2:

Also- if you are going through all the work of aligning & welding spindles on another housing, why not run 35 spline axles? Not sure what the goal of the bootyfabbin is. Lighter weight, strength, or an excuse to drink beer.

It's clearly a beer thing. It keeps me warm inside during the cold Canadian winter.

I'm just looking for something to keep me in the shed and out of the house.

Fawk it.....maybe I'll sell the Jeep, buy a snowmobile and hunt coyotes till the snow melts. :beer:

Gotta dig any excuse to drink beer.