Are there any secrets for getting this sucker out short of taking the head off the engine:(

It is broke flush/little inset on the head so vicegrips aren't an option.

Or, should I worry about it? It is one of the end bolts.

What about a small hole in the broken bolt and a reverse bit? You know the kind they make for pulling broken bolts. Sorry I'm out of technical terms today, it's Friday after 4.

easyouts are what bellydragger is talking about.

good luck :beer:

i have run exhaust manifolds and headers without all the bolts in before and have had no probs. i just did my 460 swap and i couldnt get 1 header bolt started so i said fuck it. its not a big deal, dont worry about it

Know anyone REALLY good with an oxy-accetelyne torch? No, really. With careful preheating and a well timed blast, you can blow the bolt out of the hole and leave the threads in the head in tact. Those of us who have worked in the rust belt have plenty of experience with broken exhaust bolts.

drill and easy out, if it dosn't work ignore the damm thing unless it leaks

I just broke a head bolt on my 22r, I drilled it out with a couple different drill sizes then I got a tap and rethreaded it. I did a carfull job and it worked.

Weld a nut onto the broken bolt, weld inside the nut. Let it completely cool down then wrench it off.

Not that it is much help to ya now, but I have found it is best to grind the heads off the bolts, take the manifold off, then put the blaster to the remaining stubs, use a SMALL pipe wrench of vice grips to get em out. Welding the nut on works well, but I would reccomend using the size down nut. But then agin I busted the ear off the head on a 345 a while ago, so i'm not sure if I would listne to me If I was U
HTH

All depends if its flat or not if so left hand drill and she will come right out or go to Sear's and try one of their screw extractors....dremel flat then use a left hand drill a slite bind in the bit will cause the bolt to move with PB Blaster...otherwise EDM baby

Originally posted by Klasick68
Not that it is much help to ya now, but I have found it is best to grind the heads off the bolts, take the manifold off, then put the blaster to the remaining stubs, use a SMALL pipe wrench of vice grips to get em out. Welding the nut on works well, but I would reccomend using the size down nut.
HTH

Sadly, the bolt was busted before I even layed the ratchet on it:(

And silly me, forgetting the welded nut trick:emb:

Unfortunately, I don't think the screw extractor would work too well as it wasn't a flat break :mad:

Pisses me off to no end that I'm soo close to getting my exhaust back in only to find another small problem.

But, on the other hand, I got a steal on some 74 Corvette center dump manifolds with AIR stuff on it ($40 for the pair in GREAT shape) Plus, it looks like NAPA autoparts carries a crossover pipe that will work with them($50) So I'm about $300 under my estimated exhaust budget:eek:

You can take it to your local muffler shop and they can weld another stud on without having to take out the broken piece with a stud welder attachment.

Originally posted by maddog
You can take it to your local muffler shop and they can weld another stud on without having to take out the broken piece with a stud welder attachment.

Sadly, I'm talking a broken bolt in the head... not a broken stud in the manifold(though I've got two of those also but the manifolds are hitting the trash)

And the only way to get it to the exhaust shop if they could do something with the head on the rig is to tow it... and I'm too cheap of a bastard right now to have it towed :p

You mentioned a deal on some vette manifolds, so I'm going to assume it's a SBC we're talking about....If so, I wouldn't run it without all the bolts you're just asking for a leak...

is it possible to get a mini carbide bit on a dremel and get it in there to "flatten out" whats left of the bolt enough to get a straight hole drilled in it to try the easy out?

one other suggestion might be to just "build" out the end of the bolt with a welder so you can get some vicegrips on it - just dont weld the bolt in ;)




:usa:

Could you Weld a stud on after grinding the broken one flat with the head..
?
Yeah thats a pretty BoJack way to do it, but.........


Lotsa heat, and sharp strikes not constant pressure if ya weld a nut on and try to remove it.....

Easiest way is to blow it out with a torch as described above. Cast iron has a much higher melting point than steel.

Originally posted by Yellowsub1962
You mentioned a deal on some vette manifolds, so I'm going to assume it's a SBC we're talking about....If so, I wouldn't run it without all the bolts you're just asking for a leak...

is it possible to get a mini carbide bit on a dremel and get it in there to "flatten out" whats left of the bolt enough to get a straight hole drilled in it to try the easy out?

one other suggestion might be to just "build" out the end of the bolt with a welder so you can get some vicegrips on it - just dont weld the bolt in ;)




:usa:

Yes, I got the $40 vette manifolds:D :eek: :D

Unfortunately, the bolt broke about 1/16 to 1/8 inch inside the head :(

Assuming its not cross threaded soak it good with lube then try working it with a punch and hammer...other wise try the torch method or call a machine shop and see if they have a portable EDM...