I am putting a 14ff under mt blazer on sat. The obvious thing for me 2 do would be buy an adapter u-joint. The guys I have talked to say they do not make an adapter u-joint for what I need. I a 3140 to 3r with inner snaprings on the 3r. My question is, should I have a 3140 yoke put on my drive shaft? or Upgrade the entire shaft to something stronger than the stock 1/2ton shaft? Also what output do I have on an 85 blazer 700r4 not sure what case?


Charlo

When I went to the dana 60 I just had the yoke changed on the driveline. If you use the combo u jont It will only be as strong as the small side of the u joint.

redo the entire driveshaft. doing it half ass will be regreted later. i had a 1/2 ton driveshaft let go doing 65 on I-280.

I have not had a problem with a 1 ton CV driveshaft since i got it.

Well I dont have much power but even though I am strapped for cash I think I am gonna do it right and upgrade to a 1 ton shaft. Any Ideas how many splines my output is or do I just have to count em?



Charlo

p.s. The axle still is not on. the spring pads on the 14ff are 40" center to center and my blazer is 42 1/2 center to center.

get a CV.

what transfer case you running? 203, 205, 208?

My dumb ass still dont know what transfer I have. I think it is a 208, looks like aluminum housing. 205s are cast iron right? On my current 10bolt setup with axle rotated 15 degrees I have no agle on axle side u-joint and about 20 degrees on T-case side. How many shims can I safely put on the 14ff? :bender:


charlo

If it is the aluminum Part time transfer case with a slip shaft output in the rear, it is the 208. Came in 1/2 and 3/4 tons. Should be able to find a 3/4 ton driveshaft that will work for you as far as shaft size and ujoint size also.

exactly, an aluminum part time case with slipyoke rear output. I got a quote of $235 to build custom rear lg diameter shaft with the 1350 u-joints. Sound reasonable?