Is my frame going to hold up to a dana 60 front 70 rear 44's and a sbc??? i was wanting to build this thing but i just dont know if the frame is going to take that much abuse theres a lot of weight hanging from it with this combo.

Chris

Make a new frame the stock one is to thin:D

I say give it a shot. Maybe add a couple extra cross members. I think the zook frame is strong enough.

I say give it a shot. Maybe add a couple extra cross members. I think the zook frame is strong enough.


That and make sure the suspension works decent. Harder to twist a frame if the suspension is doing all the twisty work.

ttt

A friend has broke his frame twice. He's real hard on it, now he has a cage inside and out to stiffen the frame. He had one tons and a real good running 4.3

The zook frame is very thin 4x2 - looks just about 2mm at the most, but possibly less - I have never measured it. That's OK because it is light when standard, but means if you put a big motor in and bomb proof axles and kick the shit out of it then that will give problems. Probably easier to beef up the stock chassis as mentionned above than start from scratch with something thicker....

Have the same problem with mine but from a different reason:- I want to mount a central winch which will opperate front and back. Winch to snatch block inside rear fairlead, then forwards to a couple of pulleys, then out the front fairleads. Works great for light recovery, but for heavy pulls will compress the chassis. Rear crossmember replaced with 4" wide C channel to take failead and snatch block. Front crossmember replaced with 3.2mm wall 4x2 box section. Two more 4x2 3.2mm wall box section crossmembers between the pulleys. This should help with sideways compression. Not sure what to do yet with length ways compression - maybe weld some extra patches of steel to the 4" side of the box section on alternate sides (not continuous)...

ttt

geez, the stock frame is like .060-wall. if you can afford to do D60's and a SBC swap, why not start bending some tube up. everything that is welded to that frame, i.e. suspension mounts and x-members, is going to have to be flanged with a pretty wide margin to keep from ripping free under the weight/load of those kinds of parts. i've spent a lot of time grinding and welding on my frame, and i've seen where the stress points are from my relatively tame non-competitive trail driving. i wouldn't suggest it. it really would not be hard or expensive to build your own frame out of .120-wall 2x4" steel, and make it as stout as you want it to be. with big running gear like you're talking, what is a few extra pounds?

with proper cage work, it will stiffen the frame sufficently, just plate all areas with suspension and engine mounts

screw it im just gonna bend some tube i dont think im going to trust the stock frame to stay together.

Chris

with proper cage work, it will stiffen the frame sufficently, just plate all areas with suspension and engine mounts

It won't stiffen it enough to prevent twisting the frame lengthwise. I had 60s under mine, 1.6 8V, rock Block, 6.5-1 tcase on 39.5 Swampers and after just one hard wheeling trip, the frame is twisted. It also had the prerequisite proper cage work done, it was all tied into the frame. Unfortunately, there is just not enough material there to keep it from twisting.