How do I choose a displacement and stroke?

J. J.

Send me an email - brector@scrippsnetworks.com

I have an excel sheet for you :)

I emailed ya. Could you shoot me a copy also. TIA:D

I just bought a new Orbital from Brian Boyd for a great price, Thanks Brian, but I would like to have a copy of that excel file also.. I can never have enough information... madmarx@jeep-l.4x4.org

Mark

I can help you figure out what dispacement valve that you need. Or if you already get it figured out, I can help you get the valve you need. I sell Charlynn orbital valves in any dispacement that they make load reactive for around $300. , non load reactive for around $270.

Let me know if I can help you out.

Sean

Originally posted by Station
I can help you figure out what dispacement valve that you need. Or if you already get it figured out, I can help you get the valve you need. I sell Charlynn orbital valves in any dispacement that they make load reactive for around $300. , non load reactive for around $270.

Let me know if I can help you out.

Sean

You can. One, how do I figure out the displacement that I need. Two, I assume that all load-reactive means is that it has some return to center? Educate me!

J. J.

Originally posted by Madmarx
I just bought a new Orbital from Brian Boyd for a great price, Thanks Brian, but I would like to have a copy of that excel file also.. I can never have enough information... madmarx@jeep-l.4x4.org

Mark
hey mark thanx for the props..let me know how it "turns" out..:D

i am in the process of installing full hydraulic on my jeep. i have the ram mounted and this weekend i'll mount the orbital valve, run the hoses and i'll be ready. what i need to know is on my charlynn valve whick ports go to what? there are 4 ports on top so which to go to the ram, whcih of the two pushes fluid with a right or left turn of the wheel, and which of the other two is the pressure and which is return? thanks

Originally posted by patooyee


You can. One, how do I figure out the displacement that I need. Two, I assume that all load-reactive means is that it has some return to center? Educate me!

J. J.

You need to know how many turns that you want lock to lock (or center to lock) for the steering wheel; and you need to know the volume of your steering cylinder.

Most trucks have appox. 4 turns lock to lock at the steering wheel.

The cylinder volume equals ( piston radius squared x pi(3.14159) x stroke) -(minus) (shaft radius squared x pi x stroke).

Once you find the volume of your cylinder, just devide that number(cubic inches) by the ammount of revolutions of the steering wheel(lock to lock) that you desire.

Displacement is not all that you need to worry about when getting an orbital valve. You also need to match the valve to the flow(gpm) that your pump puts out.

Yes the load reactive valves have some return to center properties that I feel benifit "trail feel". If you have a tire really wedged in a rock you are able to tell it to some extent through the steering wheel, whereas with a non load reactive valve you will not feel ANY back pressure, only the engine provides the steering power. The only pressure that the driver has to overcome with a non load sensing orbital is the friction in the valve and column into the valve.
The steering feedback difference is minimal on the trail, but enough to persuade you from putting crazy ammounts of pressure on your steering parts.

Originally posted by high5
i am in the process of installing full hydraulic on my jeep. i have the ram mounted and this weekend i'll mount the orbital valve, run the hoses and i'll be ready. what i need to know is on my charlynn valve whick ports go to what? there are 4 ports on top so which to go to the ram, whcih of the two pushes fluid with a right or left turn of the wheel, and which of the other two is the pressure and which is return? thanks

In between the 4 ports on the valve you will see the letters cast in the housing L , T , R , and P.

L = Left
R = Right
T = Tank (but probably in your case it goes back to the pump)
P = Pressure(pressure in)

Glad to help,
Sean

station, thanks!!!!

one more question. the orbital valve i have has a part# of 241-1093-002 on it and it also has this # on it : U2100.

do you know anything about this valve and weather or not it is going to work for my rig? i have a 99 vortec with the stock hydroboost pump on it and i have a standard single end 2x8" ram. thanks for any info you can give.

Hey High5 I will try to remember to check the books tommorrow. I dont have anything here at home that has your part number in it.
If you could give me a close measurement from the mounting surface for the column to the end cap, I couod give you an estimate of its diplacement tonight.

What size shaft does your 2"x8" single ended ram have?


Sean

i am at work so no measurements. the ram is one i picked up at tractor supply company but i think the ram is atleast 1" if not bigger. i have attached a pic from crash's post on the toyota board because this is what my valve looks like:

Station, that is quite possibly the most useful technical information I have yet received on this board! Lots of people talk the talk but can't make sense here sometimes. I'm PMing you about pricing on valve.

J. J.

STATION ... I am looking to do a hydraulic set-up on my 76 FSJ Cherokee but am not sure exactly of what to do to get it right the first time. If I have read through all of the tech posts correctly so far, I am looking to go with a "hydro-assist" as my rig will be a part time DD and driven to the trails until I can get up enough $$$ for the tow rig and trailer. I am already pitching the D44 and AMC20 in favor of 8 lug Mil. Chevy D60 and 14bolt axles. I haven't heard that tire size is too much of a factor, but I will be starting out with 37"x12.5"x16.5" Mil. MTs. It will more than likely complicate matters as I am trying to work out a tie-rod behind the diff like H8monday did with his D44. I would greatly appreciate any info you can send my way. Most of what I have found up to this point has all been configured for smaller :jeep:s. TIA!! :beer:

Originally posted by patooyee
Station, that is quite possibly the most useful technical information I have yet received on this board! Lots of people talk the talk but can't make sense here sometimes. I'm PMing you about pricing on valve.

J. J.

Thank You! and I am getting back with you as soon as I finish this post.

Originally posted by tigger4x
STATION ... I am looking to do a hydraulic set-up on my 76 FSJ Cherokee but am not sure exactly of what to do to get it right the first time. If I have read through all of the tech posts correctly so far, I am looking to go with a "hydro-assist" as my rig will be a part time DD and driven to the trails until I can get up enough $$$ for the tow rig and trailer. I am already pitching the D44 and AMC20 in favor of 8 lug Mil. Chevy D60 and 14bolt axles. I haven't heard that tire size is too much of a factor, but I will be starting out with 37"x12.5"x16.5" Mil. MTs. It will more than likely complicate matters as I am trying to work out a tie-rod behind the diff like H8monday did with his D44. I would greatly appreciate any info you can send my way. Most of what I have found up to this point has all been configured for smaller :jeep:s. TIA!! :beer:

Sorry, but I don't really have allot of experience with hydro assist steering. Not enough to give you any good direction anyway. I am affraid I would lead you in the wrong direction.

The points that seem to have good logic that I have picked up off of this board are..

Use a small bore ram(~1.5" and less than 2"). You will have very sluggish steering with a big ram because it needs more fluid than the steering box provides.

Be careful when modifying your steering box. Several on the board have pushed the caps off the ends of their steering boxes ,which would really suck on the trail.

Which leads me to the question for people who have made their own hydro assist systems..

After you have tapped your steering boxes for fittings, has you/anyone measured the flow that comes out of the fittings? It seems that that would be the simple way to find the correct volume cylinder for each type of box used for hydro assist.

Also, tigger, I don't know if you already have your steering arms made for your behind the axle tie rod setup, but if you don,t I would contact Anthony from Sierra Rock Crawlers
(e-mail anthony@sierrarockcrawlers.com)
He makes some nice steering arms for behind the axle tie rod setups that still allow your drag link to connect in fron of the axle.
There are several people on this board running his arms, and several posts with pictures regarding them here. If you search for "Ant steering arms" you should be able to find them no problem.

Sorry I cound not be more help to you.

STATION ... Thanks for all the info. You may not have all of the answers, but that would be too easy huh?!?;) You gave some good direction too. If you happen along any more that would be most appreciated as well. Thanks again! :beer:

Originally posted by Station


You need to know how many turns that you want lock to lock (or center to lock) for the steering wheel; and you need to know the volume of your steering cylinder.

Most trucks have appox. 4 turns lock to lock at the steering wheel.

The cylinder volume equals ( piston radius squared x pi(3.14159) x stroke) -(minus) (shaft radius squared x pi x stroke).

Once you find the volume of your cylinder, just devide that number(cubic inches) by the ammount of revolutions of the steering wheel(lock to lock) that you desire.

Displacement is not all that you need to worry about when getting an orbital valve. You also need to match the valve to the flow(gpm) that your pump puts out.

Sean

Was I supposed to know all that before I did mine?:D :D I just got a valve off a forklift, bought a 8" ram, had lines made, put a cooler on the return side, centered the ram, added fluid and drove it. Works for me! I never was good at math so I might have messed up something trying to figure out the cylinder volume.:D :D

How many revolutions does your steering wheel make when going lock to lock?

If you never drive on the road at all, you have a better chance of a thrown together system working OK for you. But if you ever take that thing up to speed... WATCH OUT!!!

Who knows? You may have gotten lucky on your setup. I hope it continues to work well/safely for you.

Sean