Recap - had lightly dragging brakes, felt the rub at about 5mph when let off brake and coast, brake pedal felt light and had light growl until pressed down a little farther.
Replaced - bleeder valves (had check ball for self-bleeding and thought air was getting in lines), replaced rotors, driver side inside pad was worn more than the others, replaced driver side caliper.
Now - fine for a day and now the same issue is back. If I have too much brake fluid in the reservoir (not to the top), fluid will push out through that upper seal. Not sure how or why. I've never seen that before but I didn't think it was that bad. And it never gets low enough for it to suck air in the lines. Why would fluid push up that hard? Do I need to now replace the master cylinder again? If so, can I replace it with one for a 2500 to get more pressure at the wheel?
Thank you for your help!

Are your front wheel bearings shot? The hub/rotor assy could be wobbling about, causing the piston to be pushed into the calipers.
Travis..

You need to replace the caliper pins. Common dodge problem. Will fix the uneven wear on pads and pulling.

New caliper pins came with the new calipers and with liberal grease.

I hope it's not the bearing but I don't think so. Before I replaced the rotor the growl came and went like a warped rotor. Now with the new rotor, it's steady. It's like it doesn't want to retract completely for some reason. But even beyond the growl is the pedal feel.

The pedal is kind of light and gives the rough noise before you press it down the normal distance. Basically if you let your foot kind of drag on it with light pressure, it makes that noise and a worse growling noise. Press a little farther and the noise goes away. Now, sometimes the pedal doesn't do that and sometimes if you pump several times, it doesn't do that.

Is it possible for the caliper to rotate in the mount? It's a brand new caliper with new pins but it's still doing the same thing. There's a loud clunk if I brake hard going forward or reverse. It clunks in forward only after I got it to clunk going in reverse. At first I thought it was the control arm key but it's really tight and is not moving and definitely not moving enough to make that clunk. But if the caliper can rotate, that'd explain the occasional drag and odd wear on the drivers side. How could it do that if the pins are in tight?