Ok so like I got this leaky head gasket (I hope) water in the oil symtom and black oozze out the left bank exhust leaks. Anyway I was thinking since I was in ther why not throw on some new rings but then I thought maybe not bacause then you whould have to hone it out or bore it out and then hone or somthing. whats your ideas? I know the bearings are good 20psi hot at 700 RPM

If the cylinder bores are good, I'd think about it, I'd probably throw new bearings in while I was at it, it's cheap insurance.

You're making a lot of extra work for yourself. Do a little favor, check your compression first. If you have decent compression still, it may not be worth the extra effort (substantial) of re-ringing it. You realize that just changing the head gaskets is an afternoon project, with engine in the rig, but re-ringing is a lot more, right?

If you re-ring, you've got to have the pistons out of the bores. That means you pull the rod caps. That means you've dropped the oilpan. Then, when you hone it for the new rings, you've got metal shavings all up in the block, so you have to totally rinse that out, at which point you might as well have yanked the whole damn engine out of the rig and started over, right? I'm sure you already know this, but think about it: that is a LOT of extra time and effort. Will it really make any difference on your engine? It sounds like your shortblock is in great shape still. (your oil pressure) Hmmm... something to think about, anyway.

My vote is just yank the heads off and put new gaskets, shave the heads .040" and grind out the exhaust ports a bit while they are off, and throw it back together. With .040" off the heads and composite gaskets, you needn't mess with the intake to get the holes to line up; i know from experience. Also, check the heads and block deck VERY CAREFULLY while apart for cracks. It'd suck to blow $50 on a head gasket kit and a whole afternoon just to discover that the water is from something far more serious.

Good luck! :beer:

Quite true, I was assuming the compression was flakey enough to warrent a ring job.

well that helps alot I got a feel-pro head gasket, do I still need to shave it down. The plugs get oily but I think thats valve seals and the engine compression is 100 psi around but the thing pulls strong. I dont think it blows oil when running, cant really tell no tale pipe. What about the valves get them re-ground or just do a valave-lap???


thanks

If you are on a budget, just slap the head back on.
if not, I'd do valve work first, then worry about milling the heads.

MAKE sure and get an estimate before you decide to get them milled, also mention that this is an IH head, cause less problems for you and them.

what does the shaving usily cost?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
what does the shaving usily cost?

When I had a valve job done on my heads, it was $240 for the valve job, plus parts (had to buy new exhaust valves).. and the .010 shaving was "free" - machinist put the head on the machine to true them up anyhow.

I don't know if .040 would be an extra cost item or not.

I know I spent $100 having my 345 block decked .040/.042.

And yes.. you really *want* to have the heads shaved. Otherwise, you're going to drop below 8:1 compression ratio. You're around 8:1 now, and the new composite head gaskets are .020" thicker, so you'll lose Compression.

What's that? You want to use a steel shim gasket to save the $$ on milling the heads? First - I don't think they're available any more.

Second, to use the steel shim gaskets, you have to deck the block AND mill the heads to get a "true" surface.. so instead of milling the heads .040, you'll mill the heads .010 and the block .010.. which, as everyone else mentioned, means you'll have metal shavings in the block, and it'll need jet-washed.. and the rods pulled, pistons yanked, rings... blah blah..

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tsm1mt
[B]



What's that? You want to use a steel shim gasket to save the $$ on milling the heads?


oh no I got the gasket... well 1 anyway and it's not no steel shim

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot


oh no I got the gasket... well 1 anyway and it's not no steel shim

Umm.. are you going to mill and re-gasket BOTH heads, or just one?

If you do just one, you'll have one set of cylinders with a given (stock) CR, and one set with a different CR.

Not the worst thing in the world, but it's not "right"..

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Umm.. are you going to mill and re-gasket BOTH heads, or just one?

If you do just one, you'll have one set of cylinders with a given (stock) CR, and one set with a different CR.

Not the worst thing in the world, but it's not "right"..

no I was going to do both.

Was $250 for both?
sounds like just for 1 :confused:

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot


no I was going to do both.

Was $250 for both?
sounds like just for 1 :confused:

I paid $240 for the valve job on both heads.

Read the write-up ! http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/faq/

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I paid $240 for the valve job on both heads.

Read the write-up ! http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/faq/


wow cool :eek:


looks like you got a real deal on thge valve job

Originally posted by Bindernut
. With .040" off the heads and composite gaskets,
Good luck! :beer:

use this same number (.040") with the feel-pro gasket?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot


use this same number (.040") with the feel-pro gasket?

Here's the deal. The stock head gaskets are steel shim type, with a compressed thickness of ~.018" iirc. The gaskets available now, *including* the fel-pro set you'll be using, are composite type, and have a compressed thickness closer to ~.040". As you can see, there is a .022" difference here, which sacrifices some compression. Shaving .020" off would put you back to stock, but having shaved .040" on one engine (~.020 shorter than stock) and been pleased with the results, I can recommend going to .040" to gain a moderate compression increase as long as you're at it. This is not a drastic amount that will require higher octane fuel or anything silly like that. It's just a bit extra to help it out, you know?

I hope that helps you understand why I suggested what I did. :beer:

yeah ok I see and with that extra amout gone the intake still alines good?

Yes, the intake goes on fine. The bolts are a little harder to get started that's all. It's only about .020" lower than stock, remember, because of the gaskets.

Remember, CHECK FOR CRACKS!

Originally posted by Bindernut


Remember, CHECK FOR CRACKS!

any tricks I should know