Battery appears to be good and charged (and this problem even happens when I put a booster charger on it to try and start). Battery is less than 4 mo. old.

Put key in, turn to run, idiot lights come on, can hear normal noises from engine compartment. Turn to start. No click...no nothing.

Seems to me in the past, I had a relay that crapped out and did the same thing.

Any good places to start looking at this?

I assume you have a manual trans.

Its the interlock relay on the pass side fenderwell. Behind the battery. Its blue.

You can bypass it to test.

i had the same problem with my 93' did you see if the blue relay fuse on the inner fender well on the pass side is burnt out i replaced mine and that was the problem i always keep extras

I jumpered the relay per numerous instructions I've seen around(big blue one on the fenderwall). No effect.


BTW, can anyone point me to pictures of exactly where and what the starter is on these trucks?

i should also state... when turning to start, I do hear clicks down by the fuse panel inside the truck... i just don't hear anything out in the engine compartment

Its on the passenger side. If You have the V6 its harder to see. Its next to the oil filter on both 4 and 6cyls. Look through the passenger inner fender opening.

The blue one is the largest relay in that area. I can take a pic of mine if you need it.

yeah... figured out the relay. Not sure I attempted the jumper deal correctly...but attempted all permutations I could see.

I figured I was lookig at the starter before. Looks like a small can on a larger one below the oil filter... I tried poking a dowel to the large body of it and rapped it with a hammer. no effect. I don't know if I can get to it directly to rap it with a hammer to see if that frees it up or not.

replaced interlock relay. no effect.

I would take out the starter then and bench test it with jumper cables. Theres two 14mm bolts that hold it in from the trans side.

that will be happening soonish. I just talked to a mechanic... didn't realize you had to try whacking the starter with the switch thrown.... once I get a buddy over to test that, I'll think about pulling the starter (or I'll have him give me a push with his jeep so I can do a clutch start and just drive to my normal shop.

The wapping trick only usually works if the solenoid gets stuck...and you can hear it click when trying to start.

I'd check wiring and the fusible links. Make sure you getting power to the solenoid when turning the key and make sure the heavy power cable from the battery to the starter in intact.

hey i have the same problem with my 92 2.4L. i found that its not only the big relay behind the battery but also the single relay closest to the firewall on the passenger side inner fender. if you take them off and tap on them gently you can sometimes get them to work

Don't suppose you have a pic of that relay, or its name?

Can that relay be jumpered (bypassed)?

I can take a pic of mine. You short out the two fat connectors.

Unplug relay.
put a jumper wire between two big connecters on wiring connector (not relay)
make sure its in Neutral!
then turn the key

stand by while I take a picture.

The Inhibit relay prevents the vehicle from starting without pressing the clutch. The relay allows the User to press the inhibt button and start the engine without pressing the clutch. The relay is located on the Right fender well. Its behind the battery.

Email Me if you need the part number.

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/inhibit_relay/relay_location.jpg

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/inhibit_relay/relay_connector.jpg

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/inhibit_relay/relay_side.jpg

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/inhibit_relay/relay_top.jpg

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/inhibit_relay

yep, that's the relay I had already checked. the one mentioned that's near the firewall is the one I hadn't seen mentioned before.

anyway, friend came over today, and rapped starter while I turned ignition.... and it started

so, off to the shop this week for a new starter.

Caution should be exercised when wrapping/hitting starters. On newer vehicle they have permanent magnets for fields. Well they are permanent until some one hits the starter hard with a metal object. Then they crack and become useless. Some shops will not accept your core if it is beaten up with a hammer.
If you can wait a few days for a starter I think I have a new OE Hitachi at my shop that will fit your truck. I bought out a wack of OE Hitachi stuff a few weeks ago. I would be able to give you a good deal on it, but you ould have to wait for shipping.

yep, i know about the difference in starters.

I'll let you know if I'm interested in one of your starters... I have to see when my mechanics think they will be able to look at it.

(edited to add pics)
My 1994 XE manual trans had the common starting problem. I would turn the key and it made a clicking noise but wouldn't turn over. I'd turn the key a few times and then it would catch and run fine. I tested the battery and alternator, both fine. I cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and replaced the corroded negative terminal, but this didn't help. I was about to replace the starter, but then I realized I was too lazy to do that.

[A] I replaced the interlock relay and it sorta helped for a while but it started doing it again.

So next i reread Mr Reverse's starter fix for old pathys (http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB34&Number=351210&Forum=f34&Words=%2Bstart%20%2Bclick%20%2Brelay&Searchpage=0&Limit=250&Main=315995&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=10000&newertype=w&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=1#Post351210) and rewired the relay directly to the battery (like he said from the beginning and i misunderstood) and that didn't help either.

[C] Finally i changed the ignition switch (key lock assembly in steering column) for a new one, and now it is PERFECT!!!!! HOORAY!!!

Disclaimers:
This fix is for manual trans.
Thanks to Mr Reverse
If something goes wrong, you can't sue me.
Good luck.

[A] New Relay:

1
got a radio shack 12 volt 30 amp automotive relay, 14 guage wire, 10 guage wire, wire connectors, wire cutter/stripper tool, and electrical tape.
image (http://tinypic.com/mav0w1.jpg)

spliced about 6 inches of wire onto each connector on the radio shack relay. used the thin wire on the electromagnet terminals (85 and 86), the thick wire on the switch terminals (87 and 30).

2
located the old interlock relay. it is a blue plastic box on the side of the engine compartment right behind the battery. mine was burned by acid from the battery. pull the relay down, off its mounting bracket. it helps to remove the battery or at least move it over so you have some room to work.
image (http://tinypic.com/mav3gj.jpg)

cut the wires that run to the relay. be sure to leave enough wire sticking out of the wire harness so you can splice new wire onto it. then removed the mounting bracket.
image (http://tinypic.com/mav3th.jpg)

3
spliced the new relay in. thick wires to thick wires, thin wires to thin wires. it is just a magnet and a switch, so polarity does not matter. (also i forgot to label it before i cut it)
image (http://tinypic.com/mav42a.jpg)

4
taped it all up. secured it to the side of the engine compartment with a screw from the mounting bracket into one of the old holes. turned the key and the engine started better than before.
image (http://tinypic.com/mav5li.jpg)

but it was still not good!
__________________________________________________ __

[.B]:Connect interlock-RELAY directly to battery:

terms:
IGNITION Switch is where you turn the key by the steering wheel
RELAY-Switch is inside the Interlock-Relay, between terminals 87 and 30, that is closed to power the starter solenoid
Interlock-RELAY is the thing by the battery that i replaced above
(i later found out it is called the "interlock relay" - it makes sure the clutch is depressed, and twice sure the key is turned)

theory:
juice goes from (+) battery -> to ignition switch -> to interlock relay -> to starter

image (http://tinypic.com/mav5ua.jpg)
(wire colors are for 94 path according to chilton's)
the wiring at the ignition switch is corroded or something
so get juice directly from the battery to the relay to the starter
and skip the ignition switch
and only use the ignition switch for activating the relay.

image (http://tinypic.com/mav60g.jpg)


1. Figure out which wire is which on the relay.
since i had already replaced the relay, i don't know what number it originally was hooked to
so to find which wire was which
a)i put the car in [b]neutral!!!
b)put the key in the ignition to "on"
c)disconnected the thick relay wires (87 & 30)
d)touched the wires from the relay (one at a time) directly to the (+) battery terminal
e)when the starter cranked, i knew that wire went to the starter
f) label it!

2. bypass to battery.
hook that wire you just labeled back up to the interlock relay on # 87
(theory: ok, could go 87 or 30, just not on magnet 85,86)
b)hook up a thick wire directly between the battery
(i used 4 guage cuz i had it, i hear 10 guage is fine).
c)and the other end to interlock relay switch terminal 30.
d) the thick wire that you just replaced with the wire from the battery:
tape it up and tuck it in and tape it down.
e) finish beer

________________________________________________


[C] Replace Ignition SWITCH (the thing in the steering column you turn the key in)

theory:
there is some wiring in the ignition switch on the key side
my theory:
maybe a kill switch so you can't just hammer a screwdriver in there and turn it with a wrench
the key has to fit well
but
the ignition switch is old and contacts are worn out
key is loose, contacts don't "contact"
so replacing just the "switch" part ($45) won't work - that only requires that the key turn
and i THINK that having it rekeyed won't help - it turns fine (rekey $100 at the locksmith)
so must replace the whole assembly - (over $100 for the new OE Beck Arnley assembly - insert cuss word here)
image (http://tinypic.com/mavrxe.jpg)
ok - i took the old ignition apart last night
the volt meter says the switches all work fine
but there are so many tiny pieces that have to fit just right
maybe some of them were worn out or just out of alignment?
i don't know why i had to wiggle the key to get the old one to work, and i don't know why the new one works now
maybe i didn't really need to do all this
but i did, and if you want to know how, here goes:

How To:
according to chilton, need to remove steering wheel
i did it with steering wheel on, and had no problems

1
disconnect neg battery wire
don't know why, chilton said so, anybody? no airbag, so, why?

2 remove steering column cover
a) GENTLY unscrew 6 screws under the cover
b) GENTLY catch bottom half as it falls
c) GENTLY remove top half
(i was kinda rough and broke a lot of places where the wood screws fit into the 15 year old brittle plastic
used a bunch of washers and bolts etc to put it back together
unless you might want to buy her, then nothing broke just kidding)

3
remove turn signal assembly
a) remove 2 screws on side of assembly
othewise you could end up drilling up the signal wiring connector
(theoretically, i didn't of course)
image (http://tinypic.com/mavss6.jpg)


4
remove all the wiring and tuck it out of the way

5
drill out the old ignition switch
two screws with heads sheared off must be drilled out
read somewhere you can use a 1/8" bit then a broken screw remover
i didn't have a remover, so i used a BIG bit and broke my back and it was ugly and messy
and turns out the screws were in there super loose - should have gone to buy the broken screw remover
image (http://tinypic.com/mavsyc.jpg)

6
put in new assembly and put it all back together

now it starts perfectly
first time - every time
and the key fits smooth and tight
(say it with me: smooth and tight)
no key jiggling
no praying
no sacrificing chickens
seriously
i was running out of chickens

next -
rekeying the door locks to use the same key
(i think i could have ordered the ignition switch to match my old key
but i didn't know then
and i can't return it after it is installed
so insert favorite cuss word here)

Try turning the engine over by hand!!! I had a 94 D21 crawler towed to me for a no start condition. he changed relays, starter, ign switch and so on.....
When i got the truck i found that the engine was siezed!! Oviously not allowing the engine to crank!!

I tip for drilling out screws. You can purchase left hand drill bits to use for this. They work with the drill in reverse. Most of the time after the screw gets a bit of heat into it and the bit grabs it will just walk the screw back out. They work about 75% of the time and save a lot of aggravation. They are just not cheap to buy. But niether was my snapon screw extractor set that has had a success rating of zero.

reviving post from the dead... I don't see that I ever marked what solved my problem... frickin' battery.

But now... i do believe the actual interlock relay is dead (have had sporadic problems starting the vehicle... battery seems to test ok.

depressing clutch, or pressing interlock switch, or doing both at the same time would not start the vehicle on two separate occasions.

I had a replacement relay from the last time... and problem "seems" fixed.

If I took this thing to a mechanic (other than a Nissan shop), how would I ask them to ensure it actually was the relay that was what was the problem?

I don't mind the thing becoming inoperable around town... but if I'm out in the boonies, I want to be damn sure the thing is electrically sound and will start.