I am finally reinstalling my t-case, and now I have a few questions I need answered before I can throw it in there.
First, how tight do I need to torque the nut that goes on the back of the tranny input shaft? Also, would it be adviseable to get a new one instead of using the old one? I have a genuine Toyota chassis manual that tells me how tight I should toruqe the rear output (where the e-brake drums bolts on) nut on, but it doesn't say the torque specks for the tranny output shaft.

Second, what is the best way to seal the rear output shaft so that it doesn't leak? I have a new seal that goes into the speedo gear housing, but is there something else I can do to help seal this up.

Third, is the shim that goes in between the speedo gear housing and t-case really necessary? My tranny was taken apart by an old roommate of mine and he lost the original shim. So I don't know what size I need. Can I just run the tranny without this shim and be okay?

And last question (for now), I imagine that this will be okay, but I want to ask. Is it all right to run the t-case without the e-brake backing plate? Basically, I would just run the brake drum and not the e-brake assembly. Just from looking at it, I don't see why I can't.

Sorry for this being so long, but I am finally getting my cruiser done and I need these questions answered to get back on the road. Thanks in advance, Thomas

#1 102 ft-lbs

#2 new drum ($100 about) for output leak-
speedo housing should have 2 seals replaced

#3 I don't know
the bearing race to retainer shim is critical for preload so that should be correct.

#4 backing plate retains that type of seal. I can be cut down to cover from bolt pattern to center. The drum can also be turned down to create a flange alone as well.

when i yanked mine out...my drum brake crap was fried and nasty! i took it all off...all but the actual drum that my d-line bolts to....:rasta:

Howdy Ouibus......... how's the coils coming?

Irebuilt my t-case and got several leaks after the rebuild. Here is what worked for me.
I swear by this.........http://www.permatex.com/right_stuff/right_stuff1.asp

I have two cruisers and no leaks anywhere:eek: ( is that possible):confused: :confused:
I would use new stake nuts.... cheap and easy. I also use the "right stuff" on my t-case AA crossmember/anywhere gasket material resides ..no leaks now. I put the RS on the speedo cable housing threads and no more leak. I put in the grooves of the rear output gear to the case so oil does not creep down the shaft into the rear emergency brake housing. BTDT!!
Also use the shims behind the speedo ........needs to be used to set the proper tension on the bearings. I couold not find new shims so I used different thicknesses of shim stock( copper) , from Napa to gain the proper preload . Check the preload with a fishscale weigher. Haynes manual is good for this.

USE the "RIGHT STUFF" .. I use the cartridge type dispensor instead of the cheeze whizz type dispensor. Right stuff is a poylyurathane and not a silicone. Way better IMHO, Iwas in the glass buisness for 20 years and when poylurathanes products came out they saved my bacon many times where silicones failed. RS is way better than RTV... I could go on.

bye for now.


Ken ( bennett)

If your rear drum is grooved use a speedi- sleeve $18 and wooolah!!...no leaky.

Thanks guys for answering. Sounds like I need to find fish weight scale and get to work. I think that I found a shim kit for the speedo housing. Although, I don't know exactly what shim I need to use.

bennett,
How is it going? Good to hear from you. I had t put the whole cruiser on hold for a long while, so I could concentrate on school. Now I have the time to work on it, and I should have it done pretty soon.

About that Right Stuff, how hard is it to remove from the part once it is applied? That is the part that I hate about RTV sometimes. It is so hard to remove from the thing you applied it to. I realize that it needs to be this way so it seals really well, but it makes it such a pain to work on later.

I'm telling you,you just need to give me your coily rig and get it over with;) I mean at least the 35's...:rolleyes: Hey remember when I redid my 60's t-case?All polished and shiny...well it is still shiny and peerrrty..but all those new seals I put in sucked or something, cause it leaks like:beer: at a CSU frat house!!!Use that stuff that Bennett is talking about,I've heard that it is:eek: :eek: :eek: really good.Yeah...and next time you call and just talk to my wife I'm commin' to getchya:) :) :) CALL ME AGAIN POOPY !!! :usa: :usa: :usa:

Don't worry Kyia, I am going to call you. I just finished finals, so life has been real hectic. Now that I am done, I will have some time to call and talk to you. It was good to talk to Tina. I was suprised that she remembered me. Anyway, I will call you in the next couple of days. Later, Thomas

Originally posted by ouibus
About that Right Stuff, how hard is it to remove from the part once it is applied? That is the part that I hate about RTV sometimes. It is so hard to remove from the thing you applied it to. I realize that it needs to be this way so it seals really well, but it makes it such a pain to work on later. [/B]

It is still a pain to remove but is much easier to remove the Right Stuff than RTV. have also heard that Toyota sells FPIG , similar to RS but much easier to remove??

have fun

the chant now:
F-Pig, F-Pig, F-Pig, F-Pig, F-Pig, F-Pig, F-Pig,

Form In Place Gasket (FIPG).
red stuff: 00295-01281 $15 TLCA price
(for contact 90W applications)

black stuff: 00295-00102 $12.75 TLCA price
(oil pan forming etc w/ or w/o! gaskets)

made in japan, wery wery good stuff

Yeah...What he said:rolleyes: :)

Does anyone have that seal part number handy and the speedi sleeve number for the back of a 3-speed transfer case and the emergency brake drum?

C/R or Napa or any number will do.......as long as it'll get me the right one.

Reddog,
I ordered the seal that I have for the back of the brake drum from Specter. They were cheaper than Toyota, and I needed some other stuff from there, so I just had them through it in the order.
The part number that I have is 068-15A.
I realize that this is a Specter part number, but I am pretty sure that this is basically a Toyota seal. HTH Thomas

Oh yeah, I tried looking for that speedi sleeve part number, and I can't find anything. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Eat your pets and sell the heads!!!Your set!!!:D :D :D

Kyia, what in the world are you talking about?:confused: Whatever you are smoking, pass some it my way.:D