This whole AiRock discussion got me thinking. Is there any reason why one could not simply buy the AiRock controller and hieght sensors (or figure out what range the hieght sensors work in and find an proxy) and use the system as a retrofit on EAS rovers?

Anyone familiar enough with it to know how it works? I mean it looks like an early RRC system with a manual roll function on it.

I know I found a controller and sensors and it ran about 2k. The controller was fully programable. Let me see if I can find my notes, but they may be on my desk at work

Rangerovers.net has some descripions on how to trick the EAS. So far, people have done it to lift uniformly, but there is no reason why you couldn't do the four channels separately.

Rover specialties had an adjustable system at the rally a few years ago

Just looked at their site and they have the AiROCK
http://www.roverspecialties.com/suspension.html

Maybe they would have some experience with using the controller with the stock parts :confused:

While researching air bag stuff I stumbled across this.

http://www.fsip.com/intelliride/

I didn't read into it too much since that isn't what I'm looking for but it may be another option for a computer controlled system.

I also found a site by a guy in Europe that built his own EAS and installed in on his 90 I think but I can't find that link.

A couple of the sites I was looking at http://www.airide.com.au/index.php/cPath/1?osCsid=cf97a3a1dd57f6e1398d1ea58b8f4b91
http://www.ridetech.com/producttoc.asp
http://www.airliftcompany.com/OriginalEquipment/ESOLUTION/catalog.html

I also found a site by a guy in Europe that built his own EAS and installed in on his 90 I think but I can't find that link.

Here you go http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Sproklegrommet/LRSuspension/Index.asp

Grem

Here you go http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Sproklegrommet/LRSuspension/Index.asp

Grem

That's the one, very interesting computer system he built. I like the way it leans into corners similar to the ACE system.

Here you go http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Sproklegrommet/LRSuspension/Index.asp

Grem

Wow, thats going to take a couple readings to fully understand, but lots of good info.

I like that you can plug the airbags so easily.
I have seen 1" sticks get wedged into coil springs driving through dead fall and clear cut areas. Can only imagine what they would do to air springs

Plus he gives you the computer part numbers and the code . . .

hmmmm. Airock on the cheap.

Anyone know who makes the airbag coil-over spring replacements? I found this place but they want four times what a normal air bag costs. Hopefully there is a cheaper alternative.

https://www.universalairsuspension.com/index.php?cPath=25&osCsid=122bd9aaf9939f03b9afe162b84ea251


Plus he gives you the computer part numbers and the code . . .

hmmmm. Airock on the cheap.

I like that guys system better than the Airock. The amount of work involved looks like more than I would want to take on though. I think I'll just stick to pneumatic switches for manual control.

This whole AiRock discussion got me thinking. Is there any reason why one could not simply buy the AiRock controller and hieght sensors (or figure out what range the hieght sensors work in and find an proxy) and use the system as a retrofit on EAS rovers?

Anyone familiar enough with it to know how it works? I mean it looks like an early RRC system with a manual roll function on it.


I'm working on it right now, I hope to have a prototype by the national rally. I'm starting with a full manual box with a graphic display of height sensor output, and add functions as I go.

My goal is a fully automatic system, like stock, with full manual and semi auto selectable on the fly. I have an EE helping me disect the system right now.

You can do the same with the land-rover's valve block - I've got a valveblock from a 1995 LWB in the pile of parts going into my 67 caddy's air ride. I have 2 switches - Front and back - SPDTs - Up sends air, down release. The wiring is pretty simple, just solenoids (I am 3000 miles from the garage and 4 beers in so I can't really remember the logic circuit). Ditch the height level sensors, wire up the switches and get a feel for pressures and ride heights. In my case, I just want to be able to adjust it front to back and have it locked out side to side so it doesn't swap air from side to side on a turn - Hence the use of one solenoid per wheel, run in parallel for control purposes. I don't care if the system bleeds down (the reason the valve body was replaced) as it's going to be slammed whenever it's parked.

You can do the same with the land-rover's valve block - I've got a valveblock from a 1995 LWB in the pile of parts going into my 67 caddy's air ride. I have 2 switches - Front and back - SPDTs - Up sends air, down release. The wiring is pretty simple, just solenoids (I am 3000 miles from the garage and 4 beers in so I can't really remember the logic circuit). Ditch the height level sensors, wire up the switches and get a feel for pressures and ride heights. In my case, I just want to be able to adjust it front to back and have it locked out side to side so it doesn't swap air from side to side on a turn - Hence the use of one solenoid per wheel, run in parallel for control purposes. I don't care if the system bleeds down (the reason the valve body was replaced) as it's going to be slammed whenever it's parked.

I still have the valve block form my 95 and I wanted to use it exactly as you described but I couldn't figure out how the thing worked. I took it apart and there were so many ports in that aluminum chunk that I couldn't keep track of where they went. Is there a diagram out there that would identify what port goes where?

When I got my 95 it had already been converted to coils so I had no experience with the air suspension.

diagram here (http://www.rover-renovations.com/valveblock.html), all the way at the bottom.

I have oring kits already kitted up pretty, that will solve most of your leaks in the block, a classic block WILL have leaks.

Make sure the diaphragm is good or your compressor will be dumping straight out the exhaust.

The diaphragm solenoid (right above the diaphragm& port#11) has to be energized when the compressor runs to shut the diaphragm valve.

To lower the truck the compressor has to be off, and the diaphragm solenoid off (diaphragm open), which ports the exhaust air backwards throught the air dryer to regenerate the desiccant.

Ports 1-4 are for the springs,
5&7 are for the air dryer
6 is for the airtank
9 is exhaust

don't know where 8 went, and 11 is to vent off the diaphragm, you don't need anything there but a short section of 4mm line used to go there.

The valves have differently sized orifices (orifi?) so make sure they go back on the same place they came from.

Thanks, that is really helpful information.