Hey all,

I'm wrapping up the install of an lt-230 into my 94 Classic LWB, what fun. In lowering the gearbox to pull the BW, I guess I lowered it a tad too far. Coolant started pissing from the bulkhead, I think I buggered up the lower heater hose bung in the bulkhead. But of course, with the engine installed I can barely touch the connections let alone see or work on it. :shaking:

I think I'll have to pull the engine mounts, lower it down real good and figure it out from there. Any advice/experience. I'm really hoping I won't need access from the heater core side, that would be a double whammy...

After installing the box and the disco shifter, I come to find I have no power to the stereo. :( I don't know where it gets it's power and the manual does not help here... CD changer still gets power though. btw, I've got the ads upgrade version if that matters.

So things are currently quiet and cold in the Rangie. Not to mention rwd, anybody got a disco 1 driveshaft in the Boulder/Denver region?

A big Thanks to Keith for helping me through this project!

Cheers,

Hey Brett

Been meaning to call you butit has been a tough week at work..
As you mentioned dropping the motor down by removing the mounts will give you access to the bungs for the heater core.. Thanks to the Junkyard doggie here for that info... He also says to be ready for a few scratches :) As for the radio I'm guessing that a ground got disconnected if the connectors on the back of the radio is still in place... Not great weather for working on stuff either.. My shop has been no higher than 28 degrees for four days...

Hey Brett

Been meaning to call you butit has been a tough week at work..
As you mentioned dropping the motor down by removing the mounts will give you access to the bungs for the heater core.. Thanks to the Junkyard doggie here for that info... He also says to be ready for a few scratches :) As for the radio I'm guessing that a ground got disconnected if the connectors on the back of the radio is still in place... Not great weather for working on stuff either.. My shop has been no higher than 28 degrees for four days...

Scratches eh, meaning my hands will look like I just climbed at Vedauwoo?

Any word on parts I might need to fix the bungs, or is that more of a "depends." I'm gonna get new hoses, anything else to replace while I'm back there?

Hmmm, don't know how to remove the radio, manual says to refer to radio manufacturers instructions... Perhaps I did it installing the shifter, there were a number of wires running around the autobox area. One pair had to be spliced to kill the tone. I guess I'll drill out the pop rivets again.

ebrake works. had to get every bit of slack I could from the cable to make it reach the handle.

Not great weather, yes. But at least your shop floor and vehicle isn't covered in a foot of snow plus what's coming down now.

btw, d-shaft guy wanted half a tcase to modify the shaft!

Cheers,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you're almost certainly gonna have to remove the dash to access the heater core. The barbs are plastic, if you hit one with the engine, you almost certainly busted one off.

The good news is that you'll have to remove the radio to gain access to the heater box.

I have pics of the heater work on SWMBO's '93 if you need pics of the process.

If nobody closer comes through, I might have a serviceable DI front driveshaft, but chances are, if I have it, it's worn out.

PT

Well thanks PT, I'd rather here the truth. I think.

List of parts to order:
-the 2 heater hoses
-heater core (might as well I guess)
-the plastic bung things
-?????????

sometimes my blower motor makes funny noises, most of the time it doesn't, what's the scoop here?

any tips for radio removal? manual is silent on this. Do I need to remove the faceplate? I have no idea here (afraid to f-it up)

Pics would be very helpful and much appreciated, you can grab my email from my website.

anybody close by got a shaft they'd like to get some holiday cash for?

Cheers,

You need the radio tool. It is a five sided allen key. A six sider may work if you jam it in there.

Thanks evilfij,
I never would have guessed it to be five sided. I should be able to get to work later this week...

Cheers,

-heater core (might as well I guess)
-the plastic bung things

sometimes my blower motor makes funny noises, most of the time it doesn't, what's the scoop here?


Cheers,

The heater core and the plastic bung thingies are all one piece.

You probably need a new blower motor. DAP has the best one IMO.

You need the radio tool. It is a five sided allen key. A six sider may work if you jam it in there.

Mormons use those on their bikes so no-one can steal their wheels or seat. You should track one down and start asking them questions.

Thanks evilfij,
I never would have guessed it to be five sided. I should be able to get to work later this week...

Cheers,
Yeah,I actually made a little 5-sided tool out of a cheapie hex.
Just finished putting an LT230 in a 93 LWB as well! Just have to figure out some details with the parking brake cable...:(
Good luck!

Good call on making the 5 sided allen key, I'll see how that works.

Parking Brake is a bitch. Let me guess, there's no place to attach the "pivot" and "capture" which were originally bolted to the bw... I was able to solve the problem with an assembly out of a new defender, thanks Keith.

Still working on the front driveshaft thing :shaking: I might just break down and pay the money to build one, just don't want to spend real money and find out what I really need is a cv shaft. I've got first gen rovertym 3" springs, which don't seem to have settled much... the shorter front shaft length has me worried.

Due to all the snow still littering the front range, I can't even pull into my driveway.:shaking: rwd with open diff.

Ordered my parts for the heater yesterday, BP said to just "lube the blower" maybe that belongs in the "other" thread.

anybody use roverpartsland on ebay before? He's got a shaft for me, but I'm a bit skeptical.

Cheers,

anybody use roverpartsland on ebay before?

Cheers,

If he's the guy in Miami, I've used him, He does what he says he does, but don't ever call them on the phone, they will piss you off.

Try Pendy, he might have a front shaft for you, otherwise, Will Tillery is your best shot.

PT

Good call on making the 5 sided allen key, I'll see how that works.
It took about 15 minutes of trial/error and carefull Dremel grinding but it works well!
Still working on the front driveshaft thing :shaking: I might just break down and pay the money to build one, just don't want to spend real money and find out what I really need is a cv shaft. I've got first gen rovertym 3" springs, which don't seem to have settled much... the shorter front shaft length has me worried.
I would try a plain 'ol LT front shaft first. I'm using one with new, healthy RTE 3" springs and no vibes.
Call Will Tillery(434-251-9331); if he doesn't have one right away, he'll get one soon enough...

Heater Core just arrived. Basically a tiny little radiator with two 4" long metal tubes coming off. No plastic. I am assuming that the two little metal tubes are the bungs which protrude through the firewall. It's made by AllMakes4x4 distributed by BritPac. Tubes protrude such that the core would have to "lay down" New hoses fit over the tubes just fine. Hope I've got it all.

I'll be tearing it all apart tomorrow, I'll take pics.

I'll make some call for a shaft tomorrow

Cheers,

For the fan, don't waste your money on a new one... if its sqeeling it just needs a lube, When its out spray a bit of oil into the bearing under the fan blade and run it if that stops the sqeel all good if it dosn't then in the center of the rear housing on the fan drill as small a hole as possible (center of where the shaft bearing bump is) and drip a bit of oil in there be good for a few more years before you have to re-oil it
If your fan noise is mechanical you'll find what ever is hitting the fan blades when you strip it.... I've found bits of plastic through to a birds nest with a dryed bird :laughing: .... lucky dip there

Cheers Reece

Heater Core just arrived. Basically a tiny little radiator with two 4" long metal tubes coming off. No plastic. I am assuming that the two little metal tubes are the bungs which protrude through the firewall.

Cheers,

You either got an aftermarket heater core (certain as it's allmakes), or you got one for an earlier model Rangie. I have never seen a '93 without plastic tanks on the heater core.

The hose barbs that extend through the bulkhead are the same barbs as on the end of the heatercore, THERE IS NO INTERMEDiATE MANIFOLDING.

For the fan, don't waste your money on a new one... if its sqeeling it just needs a lube, When its out spray a bit of oil into the bearing under the fan blade and run it if that stops the sqeel all good if it dosn't then in the center of the rear housing on the fan drill as small a hole as possible (center of where the shaft bearing bump is) and drip a bit of oil in there be good for a few more years before you have to re-oil it
If your fan noise is mechanical you'll find what ever is hitting the fan blades when you strip it.... I've found bits of plastic through to a birds nest with a dryed bird :laughing: .... lucky dip there

Cheers Reece

Reece:

Is it a Kiwi thing to intentionally put oneself through the Hell of disassembling the dashboard of a truck to replace something that could have and no doubt should have been replaced when the heater core was replaced?

I too have found all manner of things in heater boxes (but no birds). I am betting on this particular fan to have had the bearings wear so badly that the fan cage is wobbling around and hitting the inside of the heater box.

The blower motor before the last one I replaed, the bearings were so bad that the rotor was freely moving aorund where the bearing used to be.

Repalce the damned fan and be done with it for another 13 years.

Got up early this morning and got my work out of the way. Then I had time for the Rangie. Spent about 5hours today, removing the dash and eventually got the heater assembly out around sunset.

I never knew how many f**king wires there were back there! :eek: Madness. I couldn't even get a scredriver behind the engine to loosen the hoseclamps, so I took a chisel and hacksaw blade to the plastic lines -from the inside. :shaking: Heater assembly is sitting on my apartment floor now.

-Didn't have to remove the steering wheel!
-Did remove the HUD, upper-mid-lower-center dash, radio, lowered the ACcondensor

Radio just pulled out, no need to make a pentagonal allen key...:confused: There was a good bit of moisture down in here though, I think the heater core may have screwed me on this one. No blown fuses. All grounds were tight, but lots of damp/greasy.:( Found some pistachios!...chili-lemon flavor.

"Spupilup" is sending me a front driveshaft, should be here M or T. That will allow me to pull into my driveway, which is level, so that I can lower the engine. Clearance is tight on the drivers side with exhaust manifold-frame rail and at the steering box with something else.....might have to pull the engine to the passsenger side?

I'll check out the blower tonight

Cheers,

is it a Kiwi thing to intentionally put oneself through the Hell of disassembling the dashboard of a truck to replace something that could have and no doubt should have been replaced when the heater core was replaced?
:laughing: No.... I think there are tight cun... all over, my old man never tossed anything till there was no life left in it and then only if it couldn't be rebuilt or modified for some other purpose.... I guess I've picked it up too

Cheers Reece