Anyone got any good tips on how to get the frame to reallign without taking it all apart and using a jig?

I have the 20in out of the center and the rear end lopped off (of an 88 RRC chassis) and my initial plan was to pull the axles off and set up a jig, but now I am thinking the two rolling ends could be mated without pulling the axles. Maybe four jackstands and a couple rachet straps to hold it together?

As far as plating I was planning on using the 20in removed sections for the sides and 1/8in 3in stock on top and bottom. Maybe 10in for the sides and a foot on top? Is that too much? Maybe sharks teeth the side plates for more weld area.

Once it is back together I have to sort the rear frame. The rear frame and crossmember of the 80in is good so I am just going to weld it on and then use the rear cross member as the measuring point for all the other outriggers.

When we lengthened the CC, we had the chassis rolling, and made a kind of a 'jig'. I can dig up a pic if you want.

W/out rolling chassis & jig sounds like a big PITA to me. Lemme think how that would work. My feeble brain can't comprehend that one. :confused:

EDIT: I am thinking that shortening would be the *opposite* of lengthening and the same ideas would work?

Basically my thought was to prop up the cut off ends on four jack stands. Line them up, tack them, and then weld the plates over.

The way I have seen it done is to take the frame so it is just the frame. Lay it on the ground using two long metal rails as a jig and do it that way.

find soem common points on the frotn and back of the chassis and measure from corner-corner to make sure it is square before welding the plates in...

find soem common points on the frotn and back of the chassis and measure from corner-corner to make sure it is square before welding the plates in...

HA, apparently you haven't done much work with Rover frames before. Try doing this with a factory unmodified chassis and see how square it actually is...

You will be better off just aligning the cut marks so long as you can be sure you cut accurately enough. I might make a little jig with a piece of 3x3" angle iron clamped to each side of the joined area to make sure the joints are square to each other.

BEFORE cutting the frame go ahead and weld braces top and bottom of the rails.
Measure back from a common point, like the front crossmember.
You can build up a 'table' of some sort to go under the lower braces.
I used some 2x4 for the lower braces and then some more directly under each frame rail on some jack stanhs.
If jack stands are not the perfect height use some plywood sheet to get them the right height.
Make the cut. Roll the halfs back together.
Use some plate on inside and outside of each rail and big c-clamps.
You can sight down the seams of the tub and check for straightness.
Tack at all four corners of each rail.

after
The orange strings are directly over the seem on the rails. Just helped to ensure the two haves were back straight.
A come along was hitch to each spring cup to help keep it together while tacking.

Basically my thought was to prop up the cut off ends on four jack stands. Line them up, tack them, and then weld the plates over.

The way I have seen it done is to take the frame so it is just the frame. Lay it on the ground using two long metal rails as a jig and do it that way.

This is exactly how we lengthened the CC. We did have to use a Hi-Lift jack to compress one half of the frame together to line up with the other. Seems it kind of 'sprung' when it was cut. :flipoff2:

http://www.roverhybrids.com/Land_Rover_D110_Hi-cap.html

Shane does nice work!

A sweet write-up with very good images. You ought to have figggered it out by now. :flipoff2:

I think I have it figured out. I figured out I should have jigged the frame before hitting it with the sawzall!

:flipoff2:

Ron

The factory that make LR chassis is close to where I live and my friend is a welder there.
One of his jobs is to lengthen standard chassis to make the 130"s.

And his description of the technology involved is pretty much as aloharover posts above!

He cuts the standard chassis with a plasma cutter - freehand - then lines it all up with string and a tape measure!

Job done.

Dave

If the axles are still on the frame why dont you use the axles to square it up ?If the axles are at the wheel base you want and square the frame should be close enough.