Found this site which I have never seen before. Pretty neat custom 100" wheel base Defender w/ 300TDI and SVO system. I am not much of a SVO guy but am a biodieseler. Wondering if anyone else is or if you guys know a lot of biodieselers in the Rover community?

http://www.roverhybrids.com/D100_build_up.html

That's my D100, Shane at Rover Hybrids built it. Pendy's building a couple of Defenders for a guy as I type - and Paul Schram was just down there helping him - a 110 Hi-Cap pickup and a D90, both with 300 Tdi's, and is going to convert them to SVO/WVO using some of our components (I'm co-owner of PlantDrive.)

And Shane's got two pages on his 'site describing the buidup he's doing of a very trick Hi-Cap 110 - 110" I think, that's getting the International 2.8HS - big brother to the 300 Tdi - then a veggie conversion. I've also got a '91 FJ80 that got a transplanted 1HD-FT, running on biodiesel now, soon to be converted to WVO - and I've spent a lot of time lurking on the Toyota Forum here and on your excellent website - and followed your latest project. You should convert it to WVO now - it'll be easier than later. Check our website, then drop me an email with any questions - craigreece@plantdrive.com

Craig

Great thanks Craig. I am a big fan of SVO but an engineer from Caterpillar told me that they tested SVO professionally and it left deposits? I have brewed quite a bit and am very aware of nasty grease issues, no big deal but at least around here water in grease is a big issue that we have to face all the time. I feel a little scared to put some of the grease I have delt with into my engine... What I was thinking was some sort of variable heat system two tanks with basically a SVO setup but for B100 and detuned heat wise or variable.. I found a cool digital gauge that goes down to 70 at Summit that I was thinking of using.. Maybe I can be talked into grease regardless..

Cool I followed the link over to your site from the RoverHybrids. that is just killer. Looking at it I now remember photos of it in Moab and thinking "D100 - too cool" :) Very cool that you are a co owner! Best, Andre

Running bio in my:
59 SII
89 D90
82 SIII
66 88
and was in my 49 SI before I sold it.

89 D90

YOU have a coilsprung truck?

Armageddon is upon us!

Running BIO in my '05 Tdi. :flipoff2:

I do BD, but not SVO.
There are two places in town that sell 100% and then maybe a half dozen others that carry 20/80 so it's readily available.

We have 4 vehicles and only the Rover is a diesel so it,s not entirely practical yet for me to brew my own, but I am now looking for a source for used VO and will start maiking my own. Going to set up an appleseed . I have 120v in my storage shed and will put the still and washer in there.
The shed is adjacent to the garage so it will be easy to set up a suction line from the waste oil tank in the garage to the still. Will have a smoke detector in the shed. But it will be easier to vent the shed plus everything is totally out of the way.

Last decision is where and how to store the BD after making it. I am looking for a narrow 100-200g tank that will sit against the garage wall so its out of the way. Then an electric transfer pump to fill up the vehicles.
Be nice if I could get a real auto shut off valve like used at gas stations.

SWMBO likes the idea if BD and if I can get it all set up and working we will sell her SUV and my pickup and get a diesel Burb. Also keeping my open for a Disco or Rangy with a blown engine. I have another 6.2l that I will drop in and throw a banks on. Unless someone in this country comes out with a similar small diesel powered SUV soon. Don't like the Liberty and doesn't look like anything else is out there yet. :(
The small SUV will end up being her DD. The Burb will be for trips, tow the rover etc. Figure if I get a utility trailer with a 4x8 bed I really won't miss the pickup. Plus the trailer will carry more weight then the bed of the truck. The sub will have the same or greater tow capacity.

Yeah Plantdrive.

Building one truck just converting the D110.

Been playing with straight SVO on some lesser diesel vehicles in anticipation of moving to straight SVO two tank systems in my own LR's. Have an old 2.5 NA running on SVO with another customer as well. Just a junkyard dog conversion though.

Cruiserhead. There is a difference between SVO and WVO. The SVO is untainted. Where the WVO often contains animal fat. With the animal fat comes the acid which is as much a problem as the water that comes with poor storage of WVO. But a diesel engine is built to operate for a lengthy mileage span. So accelerated bearing wear may not be as much an issue over the mid term of its life span.

Been around Craig and his plantdrive since he first got on the soapbox wayback. 300 tdi yahoo group got to watch his interest turn into a business and learn with him a few things ahead of the curve of popular interest nowadays. The guys that have put on the miles are the ones to listen to. Craig has put on the miles.

SVO WVO and Biodiesel should be at least a topic of interest to all of us here on LR PBB. Education helps quell servitude to corporate American 'big oil' The rug need to be pulled out from under the oil monopoly and all these small efforts can add up. The hybrid cars and ethanol have there place as well but their crowd seem more like the Sierra club types to me that just want to start their own squeeze on Americans.

JP

That's my D100, Shane at Rover Hybrids built it. Pendy's building a couple of Defenders for a guy as I type - and Paul Schram was just down there helping him - a 110 Hi-Cap pickup and a D90, both with 300 Tdi's, and is going to convert them to SVO/WVO using some of our components (I'm co-owner of PlantDrive.)

And Shane's got two pages on his 'site describing the buidup he's doing of a very trick Hi-Cap 110 - 110" I think, that's getting the International 2.8HS - big brother to the 300 Tdi - then a veggie conversion. I've also got a '91 FJ80 that got a transplanted 1HD-FT, running on biodiesel now, soon to be converted to WVO - and I've spent a lot of time lurking on the Toyota Forum here and on your excellent website - and followed your latest project. You should convert it to WVO now - it'll be easier than later. Check our website, then drop me an email with any questions - craigreece@plantdrive.com

Craig

pendy also just got finished massaging an auto trans for a friend of mine (... merv?) It's bolted up to a 2.8TGV and he plans to run biodiesel (does in two other cars) and then invest the extra stuff to run SVO.

the drivetrain is in and just the plumbing is left. he doesn't post here on pirate so i'm speakin' fer 'em.

and Paul Schram was just down there helping him -


This is true. I managed to get some work out of him. But when I was trying to pay him in lap dances at the talent bar his spouse threatened Armegedon. So I sent him home on the train to find a real job and quite playing with trucks.

JP

Preach on brother Pendy!!

While I have a Diesel and a Rover, they are not the same vehicle. I run B20 (Winter) and B100 (Summer) in my 7.3L Ford. If I had a choice I would never run anything else in there. Well, maybe SVO but I'm not ready for a conversion yet.

If I had another Diesel I would most definitely start making my own Bio.

This is true. I managed to get some work out of him. But when I was trying to pay him in lap dances at the talent bar his spouse threatened Armegedon. So I sent him home on the train to find a real job and quite playing with trucks.

JP

I wasn't helping, I was there to steal trade secrets and mine the brain of Pendy. It had already been mined out. I did learn something about Saabs though that came in handy today during a job interview.

As for the talent bar, what happens at Pendy's stays at Pendy's!:grinpimp:

B20 in my Dodge 3500, Sandi's VW Tdi

I would run it in my 110, but too far to drive that fatboy.

We are going to start makin our own BD soon I think. We have friends at a Chinese rest. nearby. They throw away 5ish gallons of wvo every day.

Bill

I wasn't helping, !

Good point, you convinced me.

JP

I run B20 in the summer. Noticed it's a harder start on BD in winter so I run little if any BD in winter, though it does burn quite well in my garage heater, and smells better doing so than dino diesel. I considered WVO but there's too much competition for WVO in Portland. Even my friends in the restaurant business can not be persuaded to part with some of their WVO without a committment to take all of it, every time they dump it, adn I can not make that committment due to having a profession, and a family, and other things I'd rather be doing. I think it is only going to get harder to get hands on WVO as the BD industry takes off. Some restaurants are actually getting paid for their waste oil....

Aside from all of the above, the PITA factor keeps me away from the WVO.
Simon

I of coarse run WVO in my 04 Dodge; but non of my rovers run AND drive

I ran used parts solvent in my Series truck, does that count?

Sounds like the ultimate "Used" diesel fuel.

Oh yeah, it had spark plugs and ran pretty well on diesel mixed with "Some" gasoline. If Rover didn't want me to run it on diesel fuel, they shouldn't have provided tuning instructions for doing so :flipoff2:

So anyone have a good recomendation for a good portable home diesel generator?

So anyone have a good recomendation for a good portable home diesel generator?

Is there something you should tell us???? Should we all be going out to buy portable diesel generators???



Back on topic. A while back there was really cool quiet Diesel Generator for sale on coloradopowerstrokeclub.com, but it looks like it's gone now.

I have put close to 20,000 miles running B100 in my 300tdi. Runs smoother, smells better but you do loose a little power over dino fuel. Even ran a full tank of SVO from Shane this summer when it was 100F outside. Single tank, no heaters.. You would never have know the difference.

Do we get to start calling Ike Coilsprung?

Do we get to start calling Ike Coilsprung?

Not in his presence.

Hey, call me whatever you want. Im happy that it holds 10 bags of groceries!! It will also go over the embankment between trader joes and blockbuster so I dont have to make that nasty left turn! Heres some pics:

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/d90one.jpg

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/d90two.jpg

84 Cruiser BJ60 - Usually runs on B10 (all that is available up here)
109 - Longest rebuild/SVO conversion ever
VW Van - Porsche trans, 1.9TDI and SVO. Pipedream.

Oh and nice rainbow Ike. Fitting tribute.

Since I am finally back in the same country as my landies I will be converting my 110 to SVO/WVO soon. I would do the same with the IIA, but I have heard from a few sources that CAV DPA pumps don't like SVO - can anyone confirm?

Most of the people here have problems with fuel filter clogging the first time they switch to bio - anyone have similar experiences in the US?

It's true - they don't like SVO/WVO. There's info somewhere about a guy in the UK who mods them to deal with it, and with that mod and a good system - well-heated oil and clean oil (both of which you'd get with our system -:)) you might be ok.

Craig

I don't know if it helps but I have been into biodiesel in particular for years now, and volunteer as the director of the Utah group over 200 members, very large group, and one of the big reasons I do diesel swaps too.. Probably have well over 20K miles on bio I figure, most with the Cummins 4BTs, some 6ATs, and Toy diesels... I do have some WVO experience, brewing of course, and have put together a few home made SVO dual tank conversions... I do think its a neat combo, old trucks and diesels and biodiesels, seems to only be gaining popularity.. For the reasons Pendy mentioned and then some more too... Seems like there are a lot of Cruisers going over to diesel for bio as well, particularly wagons it seems...

:beer:

There is a difference between SVO and WVO. The SVO is untainted. Where the WVO often contains animal fat. With the animal fat comes the acid which is as much a problem as the water that comes with poor storage of WVO.


Pendy & others are you using mostly rendered oil and/or what are your processes for getting decent oil out of curiosity... Don't know if it helps but one of the original greasel guys (Perry Pillard) is a cruiserhead who I've met a couple times, put a Cummins 6BT in a 55, daily drives it, lives in Texas. He used to have(?) a '69 International delivery truck he converted into a "camper" V8 naturally aspirated Detroit I believe and carried around all sorts of contraptions for filtering and collecting oil right on the spot. Very smart but I couldn't imagine carrying all of that stuff around on a rig or something that you want to keep halfway clean LOL. Biodiesel is a PITA to brew but I still do it, buy it as well. Recently becoming more and more available here and luckily cheaper than diesel almost guaranteed especially the last year.. For me jury is still out on SVO even biodiesel to an extent. I am not saying I am not a fan, just curious to hear some of your tactics (addressed to no one in particular) and experiences for collecting/cleaning etc. Currently I haul around even 80 gallons of bio for different trips. I suppose that could be SVO too :) Craig if you or anyone else is interested I sold the last 55 in June and am doing a 4BT/NV5600/Dana 300 in a 55 on a 80 frame with factory coils/axles/lockers.. Buildup is here, probably about 1/2 through of what I figure is a year long project.. Goal of course again is specifically to run bio as well... Best, Andre

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92355

Plant Driver: Which part exactly is from that series pictured on the RH site?

JL: Rainbows are pretty.

Most of the people here have problems with fuel filter clogging the first time they switch to bio - anyone have similar experiences in the US?

If you are taking a vehicle that has run dinodiesel for a long time and converting to biodiesel you will need to change out the filters more often, at the begining. BD is a solvent that will clean out your tank.
There are also cases where you need to change the softlines. Changing the fuel lines is a one time thing.
Most folks that are running BD in the 6.2/6.5 have had to do anywhere from 1-4 filter changes about every 1000 miles.
There haven't been any issues with the fuel sender, lift pump, or IP.

Most folks that are running BD in the 6.2/6.5 have had to do anywhere from 1-4 filter changes about every 1000 miles.
There haven't been any issues with the fuel sender, lift pump, or IP.

Wow! That's bad. When I started running it in my 7.3L I just changed the fuel filter the first couple of oil changes, about every 5-7K. Since then I am back on a normal schedule about every 20K.

Wow! That's bad. When I started running it in my 7.3L I just changed the fuel filter the first couple of oil changes, about every 5-7K. Since then I am back on a normal schedule about every 20K.

After running dinodiesel for 15+ years changing a couple filters isn't that bad. Remember the 6.2 came out in 82 model year going on 25 years now. :D

There is a product on Ebay I would like to see sold in the USA and maybe even developed a bit more. It is a filter with a cleaning mesh. similar to the LR sedimentors, but a lot more surface area. I have seen a USA ebay vendor producing one for filtering oil to make Bio also that uses a hydraulic system filter that is cleanable also.

A filter like this could help complete how I would like to make a two tank system work. The Vormax filer assembly Plant Drive uses are very effective also. But this prefilter in my mind helps deal with the larger accumulations that tend to clog systems and could be cleaned without replacing a filter media.

As far as collecting oil. Its the role of the dice as far as I am concerned.

JP

As far as collecting oil. Its the role of the dice as far as I am concerned.

JP

No lie. I have only checked a couple places so far, but no luck.

Regarding the filters I picked up some stainless steel 5 micron filters from a buddy a couple ears ago. The filter element is cleanable, you don't exchange them. I will try and post a couple photos tonight.

My friends in Portland are opening a restaurant and have asked me concerning converting their RRC to diesel due to their having a source of "used" cooking oil.

From the perspective of the generator, I can see why they would be concerned about giving used oil away. In spite of it being a non-DOT, non-hazardous, non-regulated material and a non-hazardous waste, if you were to take it from them and spill it on the way home causing significant problems, they would still be liable under current environmental regulations (it is still an oil and the 40 CFR 110 /112 regs apply). Also, most of the disposal companies set generators up on a regular schedule to collect their used oil. If you say you're gonna take it, and they drop their current vendor, the restaurant could easily end up in a situation where they have a bunch of oil that needs to go away and nowhere to put it and no one to take it, were you to miscalculate your usage estimates.

Were I a restaurateur, I would think long and hard about giving my used oil away, in spite of an economic benefit.

Just another perspective.

So how much does the rest pay for the oil to begin with?

I have found a source for oil for .95$ a gallon. Not counting the electricity it runs about .40-.50 per gallon to convert. So the big question is how much BD do you get from 100 gals of oil?

So how much does the rest pay for the oil to begin with?

Virgin or used? I'm sure cost is tied to volume bought.

When I was doing the environmental thing, the least I could find ethical companies to take it away for was about $0.45/gallon. OTOH, I've seen contaminated oils cost $100s/gallon to dispose of.

Safety-Kleen didn't have the best pricing, nor did they have the best compliance record, but man, did they have cool uses for everything that came out of it. Everything from Wal-Mart lubricating oil to road building asphalt, to power plant fuel.

This is a big deal here in Utah, we even made it on NPR because of it... It is considered hazardous waste in Salt Lake County and is regulated. Almost completely stopped most brewing in actual salt lake city... There is some liability, some of the grease renderers won't even sell to biodiesel because of safety/liability issues.. After a lunch with them a couple weeks ago where we discussed it in person I actually see their side of the story to an extent...

Sorry, I meant how much do restuarants pay for their oil...new stuff, to use in cooking.

This is a big deal here in Utah, we even made it on NPR because of it... It is considered hazardous waste in Salt Lake County and is regulated. Almost completely stopped most brewing in actual salt lake city... There is some liability, some of the grease renderers won't even sell to biodiesel because of safety/liability issues.. After a lunch with them a couple weeks ago where we discussed it in person I actually see their side of the story to an extent...

The answer is for you all to take a bond out and collect the oil as a business. Start a Co-Op and continue to charge for picking up the used oil. Double dip.

JP

New soy at Costco is about $2.60/gallon, and that's about what most restaurants pay to have it delivered. Soy's the cheapest, Canola's a bit more, peanut even more.

Craig

The answer is for you all to take a bond out and collect the oil as a business. Start a Co-Op and continue to charge for picking up the used oil. Double dip.

JP

Pretty much how all the disposal companies handle it. You pay them to haul it away and they sell ALL of the by-products.

New soy at Costco is about $2.60/gallon, and that's about what most restaurants pay to have it delivered. Soy's the cheapest, Canola's a bit more, peanut even more.

Craig


So the .96$ a gallon is a good deal. But you are buying it at 250 gallon lots.

The answer is for you all to take a bond out and collect the oil as a business. Start a Co-Op and continue to charge for picking up the used oil. Double dip.

JP

Almost sounds like you have been following the debate. This is actually something we have strongly been considering. First we were actually trying to partner with one or some of the renderers to get a tank in SLC that they would fill, clean and legal. If nothing can be worked out then it looks like this is the next step. Will take some funds though, trucks / infrastructure etc.. It requires a $1 million bond to get the permit but it actually isn't too bad to acquire. the next step is a lot of liability and rules relating to home brewing. In a perfect world our coop would actually have a biodiesel brewing center with equipment that members could come in and use. We are looking strongly at that too, with the biggest hurdle being raising the money as well.

So the .96$ a gallon is a good deal. But you are buying it at 250 gallon lots.

becareful who/what you are buying. If you are getting it from a renderer you may be sorry as they generally have skanky oil with high water content and high in animal fats(read smelly, rancid, hard to filter)
And when they say it is filtered and dewatered they are exaggerating!

becareful who/what you are buying. If you are getting it from a renderer you may be sorry as they generally have skanky oil with high water content and high in animal fats(read smelly, rancid, hard to filter)
And when they say it is filtered and dewatered they are exaggerating!

But that doesn't matter as much if you are making BD right?

Double dip.

Ahem, Jimmy meant to say "vertical integration of your enterprise." He'd never use a phrase that might have a negative connotation :laughing:

Almost sounds like you have been following the debate. This is actually something we have strongly been considering. First we were actually trying to partner with one or some of the renderers to get a tank in SLC that they would fill, clean and legal. If nothing can be worked out then it looks like this is the next step. Will take some funds though, trucks / infrastructure etc.. It requires a $1 million bond to get the permit but it actually isn't too bad to acquire. the next step is a lot of liability and rules relating to home brewing. In a perfect world our coop would actually have a biodiesel brewing center with equipment that members could come in and use. We are looking strongly at that too, with the biggest hurdle being raising the money as well.

Too bad this is in SLC as I know someone who is knowledgeable in obtaining permits and engineering of such facilities. I know him REAL well:flipoff2: Sadly, this gentleman's wife will not consider relocating...

But that doesn't matter as much if you are making BD right?

It actually does, water is a big deal and can ruin the reaction, and you can process out of oils with high free fatty acid content but it is a PITA. Best are Asian / Mexican restaurants that do not cook a lot of frozen breaded foods... So yes, it matters..

It actually does, water is a big deal and can ruin the reaction, and you can process out of oils with high free fatty acid content but it is a PITA. Best are Asian / Mexican restaurants that do not cook a lot of frozen breaded foods... So yes, it matters..

Cool, thank you.
Obviously I am still in the research stage.

Water can be removed by many processes, but it lengthens your time and increases costs.

Water cna be removed by many processes, but it lengthens your time and increases costs.

I see that you need to heat the oil to a higher degree and for a longer amount of time to evap off the water.

The scheduling of pickup of oil from a restaurant and ensuring that I don't slip up seems like the biggest PITA about the entire process. If I can purchase oil for <$1 per gallon then financially the entire process still makes sense.

I was reading one account where someone adds water to the oil to prewash it prior to adding in the methanol. Seems to me that isn't much different then water already being in the mix?

I see that you need to heat the oil to a higher degree and for a longer amount of time to evap off the water.

The scheduling of pickup of oil from a restaurant and ensuring that I don't slip up seems like the biggest PITA about the entire process. If I can purchase oil for <$1 per gallon then financially the entire process still makes sense.

I was reading one account where someone adds water to the oil to prewash it prior to adding in the methanol. Seems to me that isn't much different then water already being in the mix?

Trying to cook water out of oil can be VERY dangerous. One of the very few laboratory accidents in which I was injured occurred from this step.

The water begins to boil violently beneath the oil and hot oil is explosively ejected from the vessel. There are much easier and safer methods to do this. Silica gel won't work real well, but there are other desiccants and molecular sieves that work very nicely, along with other sequestering agents.

Cool, thank you.
Obviously I am still in the research stage.
no worries at all aloharover :)

The scheduling of pickup of oil from a restaurant and ensuring that I don't slip up seems like the biggest PITA about the entire process. If I can purchase oil for <$1 per gallon then financially the entire process still makes sense.

I would agree, it definitely takes the most time and requires good infrastructure IMO... We have been using a two wheeled barrel dolly and a ATV ramp lately.. Sucks! We have a handi cap lift that we had on the back of a pickup but the owner soon realized what a PITA it was to have it on the back there when not collecting oil.. But it worked well for lifting barrels. Goal now is a dedicated truck, like an old Doritos bread truck with a (hehem) 4BT in it. :)

I was reading one account where someone adds water to the oil to prewash it prior to adding in the methanol. Seems to me that isn't much different then water already being in the mix?
Oddly we were just talking about this last night, it does help but yes you have to remove the water.. I am still learning better techniques for that myself as its usually a PITA :)

...

I would agree, it definitely takes the most time and requires good infrastructure IMO... We have been using a two wheeled barrel dolly and a ATV ramp lately.. Sucks! We have a handi cap lift that we had on the back of a pickup but the owner soon realized what a PITA it was to have it on the back there when not collecting oil.. But it worked well for lifting barrels. Goal now is a dedicated truck, like an old Doritos bread truck with a (hehem) 4BT in it. :)...

I'm at this point myself only I think Ive decided a trailer with a tank and pump is the solution I'm going to persue.

I'm at this point myself only I think Ive decided a trailer with a tank and pump is the solution I'm going to persue.

I was thinking about that, but in looking behind some restaurants it would be a pita to try and back in.
I guess I could dolly the rest barrel out to the trailer and then back....hmm....

Easier is to talk them into giving you the oil in the jugs it came in. Plus: no water in the oil. Check out "Used Cooking Oil Fuel the Easy Way" on our website - it's on the homepage - look for the bag o' frenchfries logo.

Craig

Some guys in Provo hit up a local PF Changs once a week or two, anywhere from 200-400 gallons at a time and have become their exclusive grease collector. They have a trailer with two 275 gallon car boys and a gas powered 3" trash pump that works pretty well even in the cold... I have a 2.5" electric trash pump that fills a 5 gallon in maybe 5 seconds :) , but doesn't work well at all in winter... I have used with with the trailer technique though and it works pretty well.. You guys sure have it lucky where its warmer, in the winter up here it goes from not bad at all to close to nightmare as the grease solidifies :)

Yeah but the skiing's better in Park City than in the SF Bay Area, Andre.

:D


Craig

This is one of the best threads in regards to actually retrieving the oil. I have seen tons on processing the biodiesel but hardly any on this topic. I have always thought it would be a little more work.

I have always thought about just getting a 250 gallon crate of the B100 locally and placing it in my garage. They're actually not that big and would last me about 3 months in my Ford. Sure wish we still had the TDI golf, then I would get real serious about this.

This is one of the best threads in regards to actually retrieving the oil. I have seen tons on processing the biodiesel but hardly any on this topic. I have always thought it would be a little more work.

I have always thought about just getting a 250 gallon crate of the B100 locally and placing it in my garage. They're actually not that big and would last me about 3 months in my Ford. Sure wish we still had the TDI golf, then I would get real serious about this.

How many others in the club run BD?
If someone set up a processor you think others would be interested in buying B100 for say 2$ a gallon?
hmmm......

Trying to cook water out of oil can be VERY dangerous. One of the very few laboratory accidents in which I was injured occurred from this step.

The water begins to boil violently beneath the oil and hot oil is explosively ejected from the vessel. There are much easier and safer methods to do this. Silica gel won't work real well, but there are other desiccants and molecular sieves that work very nicely, along with other sequestering agents.

Wouldn't freezing the water out be a good option?

Mark Hawley from Metal Tech Cage, big cruiserhead, does exactly that, 275 gallon tote in his garage for his Ford. Very conservative politically, FWIW, biodiesel = best of both worlds for exactly the reasons Pendy mentioned :)

Wouldn't freezing the water out be a good option?

The grease would become difficult to handle at lower temps.

As for transporting it, IBCs (intermediate bulk containers or "Totes"-probably what Larry is referring to) are the size of a standard pallet, have a metal cage around them, are approved for DOT use, can sometimes be had for free from chemical supply places might be a good way to go.

While I'm usually up for anything, I'm worried about some regulatory implications with large volumes of oil in my garage/backyard shed. I'd hate to have a spill and end up in deep shit, have a fire, get hurt.

That said, if my new job opportunity works out, I'm gonna likely have access to MB diesels frequently...

(hanging head in shame) I can't believe you guys have got me even thinking about going diesel (head hung in shame)

Call me a dick (most people do....) but Biodiesel can be had retail here for $1.67, and I think I get it through my cardlock for less than that. So WTF woudl I want to fawk around with buying oil at $1 a gallon (ass-uming it can be had at that price) and then mess around with making BD? Wouldn't my time be better spent making money or having fun, and my money better spent encouraging the production of biodiesel as a way of both sticking it to "the man" (even though I am part of "the man" and sticking it to the A-rabs?

I thought about SVO and making biodiesel, but the PITA factor is too high for me anyway. But then I have a lot of other stuff taking my time. Even if I didn't though, I am unsure maiign my own fuel would hold enough allure to make me want to do it rather than just belly up to the pump.

After sitting three weeks, my 109 started just fine this AM at about 25 degrees on 80/20 biodiesel.

Simon

$1.67 :eek:

It's 2x that here. B100 and even B20 are more expensive the dinodiesel.

diesel here in utah is surprizingly expensive as gas is usually bery cheap. Bio B20 is about $2.60 and diesel is about $2.75...

Did I type $1.67? I meant $2.67. Still, I stand by my point. Making biodiesel just isn't worth the time, energy and mess. Especially if one resorts to buying the veg oil to start with.

Merry Christmas, Biatches!

You have hit upon the advantage of WVO - it's free, and requires only filtering, not converting into biodiesel.

Craig

You have hit upon the advantage of WVO - it's free, and requires only filtering, not converting into biodiesel.

Craig

But it does reuire modifications to the base vehicle, can't stand the cold as well, not all IPs work with it, and generally results in lower power.

Yup, you've got to modify the vehicle, but that's a one-time deal, and then you're got free fuel for life, whereas with biodiesel (if you're homebrewing) you do that forever - or until you get tired of it. A properly-converted truck will do fine in cold weather - that's what a conversion does - heats the fuel. And your 6.2 has the Stanadyne rotary pump, which is not the best out there, but we've converted several 6.2's and they're all doing fine. Lucas/CAV pumps are not great on WVO, Bosch rotaries - such as in the 300Tdi - are fine on WVO.

Craig

Does anyone know where you can get B100 in Colorado springs. Is any one brewing biodiesel at there home in springs? If so how has is working in the winter?

Thanks
Ed

Does anyone know where you can get B100 in Colorado springs. Is any one brewing biodiesel at there home in springs? If so how has is working in the winter?

Thanks
Ed

Give me a sec to find the link, but there is a web site that lists all BD distributors in town

I know there are at least two places that sell b100, one of them right here down town off Neveda

Here is the link

http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/distributors/showstate.asp?st=CO

This is the place I was thinking off, just two blocks from my office
Acorn Petroleum, Inc
529 South Sahwatch
Colorado Springs, CO 80903

then this place over in OCC
Chief Petroleum
301 S. 10th St.
Colorado Springs, CO 80904

I thought there was also one up on N Neveda, near Filmore

Both those dealers only sell B20 and not B100. I figure that there must be a place in Denver selling B100.

top, for no particular reason.... :)