We weren't going to lift the FJ-40 for a while but then a good deal came up on used tires. We got at set of 33" ProComps for $250.
I would like to at least get them mounted on the Cruiser so they're not sitting on our porch. I'm look for some of the cheaper methods (read: not full suspension) of lifting temporarily. I was thinking a 2" shackle lift and a 1" body lift. (total of 2" of lift)

So, is it possible to do a body lift on a FJ-40? If so, are there any kits out there? I haven't seen any. One guy mentioned hocky pucks on another board. I don't want to go that route.
What things will a body lift affect?

Eventually we'll get a 2.5" or 4" BDS lift on it. I just can't afford the $700 right now.

Go with the shackle and don't even think of lifting the body!

If you need clearance for the 33's, do some fender trimming.


If you plan on major drivetrain mods and monster tires, then body lift is okay.

Till then, save the body lifts for the IFS S-10's!

$.02

Originally posted by rugburn
Go with the shackle and don't even think of lifting the body!

If you need clearance for the 33's, do some fender trimming.


If you plan on major drivetrain mods and monster tires, then body lift is okay.

Till then, save the body lifts for the IFS S-10's!

$.02

I agree. I ran 32x11.50 on my cruiser the first summer I got it and it was bone stock. 33's with a shackle lift should work fine.

The body lift is too much of a pain in the a$$ to put on if it is a temporary thing. :D:D:D

I have a 1" body lift on my cruzah. All you need to do is get the pucks, longer mount bolts, make a spacer for your front bib hinge, and redrill the mounting holes for you fender to frame mounts. Might have to modify your inside cab steering wheel mounting bracket, cuase your steering wheel is gonna be sitting at a higher angle.
Normally I wouldn't recommend a body lift, suspension lift is a far better way to go. But sometimes, even a suspension lift isn't enough.
Shackle lifts work, but I would minimize it to 2", the longer you go the less stability you will have, especially on the front!:skull:

I have a 1" body lift on my Cruiser. I took an old 3" body lift from a mini truck and cut it down. I had to redrill the front fender supports 1" lower and I had to space the front of the grill up 1". The only catch is the steering shaft may be too short to get full spline contact on the gear box.

instead of hockey pucks-- boat trailer rollers; the hole is already in the center.

cut to height and it is exxxxxelent (in my best mr burns voice)

body lifts are cool, they give more panel clearance (protection) and lift the car without lifting the centre of gravity the same amount (as you leave the engine, gearbox down in the chassis)

problems: depending on what blocks you use, make sure they are SOLID, steel, alloy, hardened poly, they all work, otherwise tehy WILL crush, ive seen sammis crush body blocks, the longer mounts, provide more leverage to the bolts to snap off, and if you're floor is going, then they will punch through more likely then with no body lift, i used 2" hardened poly, and we've done 6 cars like this and had no problems.

the body on some vehicles, 4runner, patrol wagon, will actually noticeably flex, whereas on the FJ it won't.

steering, transfer case lever, front apron, and the fender guards where tehy bolt to the body, are the only real problems, you will have, maybe some electrical won't reach, but unclipping and re-routing a little normally fixes it. heat and bend the transfer lever, front apron needs a spacer, fender guards, you can use just the bottom two hole, or weld more steel on either way

for the steering i have seen a hundred solutions:
cut the firewall, and the steering wheel becomes flatter, but it hooks up
lift the steering box
lift the steering box a small amount and pull the splines out a little!


the BEST solution to the steering by far, is a power box down at the front of the frame (saginaw) (60 series) or similar, and when you do this you get better everything

I put a 2" body lift on my cruiser and at the same time I did a PS conversion which made things a lot easier. I used 2" solid aluminum blocks.

Originally posted by buford
I put a 2" body lift on my cruiser and at the same time I did a PS conversion which made things a lot easier. I used 2" solid aluminum blocks.

Dude the SOA looks Awesome! Now you need to sell those training wheels and get some real meats!

As for the b lift, advanced land cruiser handling in Oregon sells a 2.5" kit and Man-a-Fre sells a 1" kit.

Both around $150

Mine was $40 total, including grade 8 bolts (ACE hardware), and 1" poly body pucks (Capital H**per Supply, in Sacto). :skull: