Well here I go! Finally ready to start putting some of the stuff I've been gathering together (before my wife has a cow!). Got my flamesuit on as I already know that some aren't gonna like the idea of a trailer ball 1-link suspension. I've chatted with a number of people that have been running them on their rigs with great success. I think my design is an improvement on that they've done. If not, it's gonna be removable so I can make do something else later. But this is gonna get me wheeling much sooner.

Use of this vehicle will be as a extreme trail rig. No rock crawling competitions just a toy for me and the boys. We wheel here in the Pacific Northwest where we can always expect plenty of moisture. Lot's of good soupy mud and slick rocks. When we get up in the hills we love to play in the snow too.

Here's the details:

Vehicle: 1978 Scout II Ralleye editon, Currently stock except paint. Purchased in 2004, not running, for $500

Drive train:

IHC IC 392. Purchased complete in 2004 for $200 with about 27,000 miles of use. Changed all gaskets for about $150. DUI HEI style distributor with "live wires" purchased from D & C extreme Jan, 2005 for around $550

IHC T-35 Purchased complete from Flywheel to rear yoke in 2006 for $200

Dodge, divorced NP205, Purchased in 2005 for $175 with crossmember.

Rockwell 2.5 ton military axles, picking up Jan. 2007 for $750 w/ stock tires and wheels (tires and wheels will be replaced later). Full hydraulic steering. Pinion brakes.

Suspension:
Custom made 1-link using 2 5/16 trailer balls, Bulldog class IV couplers.
Coil springs

Future plans:
Hydraulic winches front and rear, full cage, on board air.

This is gonna be a long term project but I hope to be wheeling by March. So here we go!

Got the idea for a 1-link while poking around here on Pirate. I found this thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225549 and after reading it in it's entirety, and asking a few questions. Decided to go ahead and put my truck together with a similar suspension. I think I came up with a little better design (read stronger).

In the first drafts, I though of using two 2 x 5 x 5/16 wall thickness square tube as cross members to support a mounting platform for the trailer balls. After a trip to the steel yard where I was unable to find what I wanted. I changed the crossmember to a single piece of 15 x 50 channel. This piece of channel is 15" X 33" X 3/4" thick.

I am going to cut 2" of the vertical walls off of both ends of the channel so that the frame sits flat against the bottom platform. I am also going to use the 3 x 5 x 5/16 thick square tube I purchased as protection for the ball mounts (rock sliders). I will weld or bolt them on both sides of the links just wide enough to allow full movement of the links. That way I can use the link arms to slide over objects, then the obstical will rest on the square tube sliders, protecting the link mounts, and back to the rear link arms. I think I am gonna mount some 1/4 inch plate on the bottom of the sliders (with a bit of a cut out for link articulation) to prevent obsticals from jamming the balls and hitch components between the sliders.

I will update then the center section of the suspention is Made.

Pics attached here are the first 1-link design.

Updated center section design.

the real material ready to put together.

Yahoo here we go
any stock picks to start with

Pics for the lazy??? Daimian?

Pics for the lazy??? Daimian?
LMAO I was thinking the same thing...

Sorry about the hijack

Troutbum-could you post the details of how you installed the front 32 spline output in the scout D300? Thanks.

Eric

There are 3 critical steps.

Remove the Scout D300
Sell it on BB
Replace with Jeep D300 for half the price :D

It was pretty straight forward, if you have a mill. Don't know why you couldn't do it to a scout D300? Call JB conv and talk to them, but I think it is as easy as disassemble, mill the front bearing retainer to spec, install new shaft, seals. shims and bearings....

There are 3 critical steps.

Remove the Scout D300
Sell it on BB
Replace with Jeep D300 for half the price :D

It was pretty straight forward, if you have a mill. Don't know why you couldn't do it to a scout D300? Call JB conv and talk to them, but I think it is as easy as disassemble, mill the front bearing retainer to spec, install new shaft, seals. shims and bearings....

Thanks for the quick reply. The mill is no problem. I emailed JB and they were unable to help. All of my research indicates that the installation is the same for the scout d300 as it is for the jeep.
If I had a 727 I'd have the jeep case, but with the t19, the cost of adapting it for the jeep d300 makes it a wash.
Eric

Just down load photos and then open them and copy the URL link and click on insert image and paste it in there.:shaking:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277141&d=1165903857
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277140&d=1165903857
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277139&d=1165903857
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277138&d=1165903857
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277138&d=1165903857
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277142&d=1165904036
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277143&d=1165904036
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277144&d=1165904036
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277145&d=1165904125

Return the chrome ones and get the black ones used for goose neck trailers, they are rated at 25,000 vs 10,000

last two
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277146&d=1165904125
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277147&d=1165904125

WOW! Think that crossmember is thick (big) enough? How much does that fker weigh. Nice BALLAST (heavy weight below CG)to keep you from rolling it :flipoff2:

WOW! Think that crossmember is thick (big) enough? How much does that fker weigh. Nice BALLAST (heavy weight below CG)to keep you from rolling it :flipoff2:

Crossmember = 136 lbs!

One thing I heard from someone who's been running this for a couple of years is that they had bent 1/2 inch steel. Sooooo, not wanting to deal with that later, I used 3/4". This should also prevent the holes from stretching out. I am gonna also grab a couple of large, thick flat washers to mount between the channel and the lock washer.

R290, Thanks for the tip about the Gooseneck trailer balls. I am going to make the swap.

Yahoo here we go
any stock picks to start with

I will take some and get them posted.

After work today, got the steel marked and ready for cutting and drilling.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277392&stc=1&d=1166070919

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277393&stc=1&d=1166070919

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277394&stc=1&d=1166070919

For a trail only rig I really don't see a problem. Worse thing that can happen is a tow ball breaks causing you to take the short cut off of Lion's Back. :p

Ah, someone beat me to the pictures :mad: :( :mad: :( ~ SugarBear, too bad you weren't closer, I'd like to toy around building a custom cage with ya for that thing. :evil:

This is what I am running but with Fox air shocks. Not done (still buying parts) but close.



and this is what I have for the rear:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/slydog72007/30bf.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/slydog72007/bd3c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/slydog72007/b69c.jpg

the rear is called a graderball and is very popular and very stout in my area (ARKANSAS)...................Whooooooooo.......... ..pig..... soooooie

I don't know why but using the hitch ball scares me. I wouldn't mind doing the GraderBall thing SlyDog did, but still. :confused:

Saw this joint in General4x4 a couple days ago. Interesting and maybe a better choice.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=534561&highlight=Gyro

Ah, someone beat me to the pictures :mad: :( :mad: :( ~ SugarBear, too bad you weren't closer, I'd like to toy around building a custom cage with ya for that thing. :evil:

He probably wants it done sometime soon. not pay for it and wait 6-9 months.

I tried to post last night but my connection was ultra slow. I do't know what threads you read on the subject, but there are a couple in the FAQ on the subject, and one of the jeep guys Sceep maybe, did one and didn't like it. He had to run a super short limiting strap to kep the axle from walking up under the rig.

He probably wants it done sometime soon. not pay for it and wait 6-9 months.
AH! That was a good one. HA ha .... ha ..... :shaking: :rolleyes:


Actually, for nice people who let me do what I want and can help, all I require is $200-300 for materials, some baby back ribs and we make a Saturday of it. Just ask Gary Billings how much his custom 800 cage cost ~ or his wifes Terra-top cage :grinpimp: Or ask Led, or Jeff, or Joey, or ~ well, you get the picture. But you wouldn't know that would ya. ;) :D :D

I don't know why but using the hitch ball scares me. I wouldn't mind doing the GraderBall thing SlyDog did, but still. :confused:

Saw this joint in General4x4 a couple days ago. Interesting and maybe a better choice.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=534561&highlight=Gyro



Good find, but you don't think they are stronger than a graderball do you? IDK if they are but the GB has been proven, what are those joints intended for?

This is what I am running but with Fox air shocks. Not done (still buying parts) but close.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/slydog72007/b69c.jpg

As for the axle walking under, could you add a couple upper links like in a 4 link setup?

P.S. I can't believe you run with prosthetic balls:flipoff2:

Not my balls :flipoff2:


The pic is of Slydog's rig, but mine will be close (no balls) :D

Yes I would think you can add more links if you find need be. I will proly run a small winch with the rockwell's we'll see.......

You can't add links with this setup. It's just a bad design and there's not much you can do about it.:(

hey BLK scout 800, what are the coils out of? it looks good.

not really sure what to say to this....wouldn't be my choice, but curious to see how it turns out.

I will say photos of pencil sketches....just priceless:flipoff2:

as far as the one link, I looked into it for my rig. but went with a four link instead. with a 4 link if you break one you can still baby it back to the trailer. if you break a 1 link you are screwed.

This is what I am running but with Fox air shocks. Not done (still buying parts) but close.

I think I actually saw your rig on a tread while I was looking around. I really like the grader ball. But $200 plus just for the grader ball set up, turned me away. If I were doing this for a rig that I was going to go into competitions with or planned on running on a Alaskan adventure. I'd definatly be using one. I really like your setup.

I tried to post last night but my connection was ultra slow. I do't know what threads you read on the subject, but there are a couple in the FAQ on the subject, and one of the jeep guys Sceep maybe, did one and didn't like it. He had to run a super short limiting strap to kep the axle from walking up under the rig.

I know this design produces a large amount of Anti squat. To combat this a bit, will be pushing both axles out front and back. Wheel base should move from 100" to about 124" Mounted this way I should have excellent aproach and departure angles. For what I am doing running a shorter limiting strap won't be a big problem. I am going to mount the strap in the center though to retain good side to side articulation. Good looking out though, I appreciate the feedback.

He probably wants it done sometime soon. not pay for it and wait 6-9 months.

Please don't turn my build thread to a pissing and moaning contest! If you look at the last bashing thread you'll see that I've done business with D & C and had a good experiance. Please take your outside beefs elsewhere.

Please don't get me wrong, I appreciate you reading, posting and giving advise that may help the build, but I don't want this tread to go sideways. Thanks in advance, -Ray

not really sure what to say to this....wouldn't be my choice, but curious to see how it turns out.

I will say photos of pencil sketches....just priceless:flipoff2:

You mean my blue prints :flipoff2: ! LOL yeah they're rough but wanted people to get the idea.

as far as the one link, I looked into it for my rig. but went with a four link instead. with a 4 link if you break one you can still baby it back to the trailer. if you break a 1 link you are screwed.

Not too worried about it, I am not an every weekend wheeler, nor do I do competitions or anything. The boys (and girls we're all married now!) and I just head out 5-6 times a year for some good dirty fun. No super long trips. I'm not using weak parts. As long as I can surpress the urge to jump the beast off the side of a mountain or roll it off a cliff (slipscomb, How you doing anyway, hope you heal up quickly. I know it wasn't your rig and you where not driveing) I think if will hold up fine. If I were building a rig I would be hammering on constently, I wouldn't be using this design.

BTW, again, please nix the D & C bashing. Your definatly entitled to your freedom of speech, but as a personal favor to somone not involved, please do it elsewhere. Thanks again

if you are just going to mash on it a few times a year, why not keep the leafs. and with the leafs you can jump it.

if you are just going to mash on it a few times a year, why not keep the leafs. and with the leafs you can jump it.

Thought about it, even decided to go with it once, but with T-35 and A divorced NP205 I needed some extra space. Also, I would have had to run some serious arches for the top of the rockwells to clear the fuel tank and oil pan. So I opted for this.

I'm figuring, with rockwells, t-35, NP205 and an IHC 392, Jumping this mountain of metal wouldn't be a good idea! I'm a little crazy at times but that's a lot of weight.

Why Rockwells? Because I can get a set Front and Rear for half the cost of a junkyard D60. Been to most of the wrecking yards between here and Grants Pass, OR (about 280 mile range as the crow flies) and the best quote I got on one was $1500. In case that was your next question!

doh, forgot you are running rockwells

I know this design produces a large amount of Anti squat. To combat this a bit, will be pushing both axles out front and back. Wheel base should move from 100" to about 124" Mounted this way I should have excellent aproach and departure angles. For what I am doing running a shorter limiting strap won't be a big problem. I am going to mount the strap in the center though to retain good side to side articulation. Good looking out though, I appreciate the feedback.

Remember Unimog suspensions are basically a one link and it takes one seriously hardcore rig to out climb a stock 404 Unimog.

if you are just going to mash on it a few times a year, why not keep the leafs. and with the leafs you can jump it.

I would rather jump with a 1 link over leaf springs

this is the only jump pic i have but mine has ben off the ground:grinpimp:
http://www.imgtank.com/thumb/700838hillclimb796.thumb.jpg
Click Me (http://www.imgtank.com/hpics/show.php?img=700838hillclimb796.jpg)

Silly question? How do you plan to haul this truck around?

Do you have a flatbed equipment trailer and a 1-ton?? :D

It sure isn't going to fit on a regular car trailer. And it sure isn't going to be street legal enough and/or streetable enough to make it to the hills on it's own.

Good find, but you don't think they are stronger than a graderball do you? IDK if they are but the GB has been proven, what are those joints intended for?
Graderball has been proven, the only reason I accept them is that you can tighted the mount around the ball. But it looks like thes are hitch balls ~ and I'm not so sure about those.

Why Rockwells? Because I can get a set Front and Rear for half the cost of a junkyard D60. Been to most of the wrecking yards between here and Grants Pass, OR (about 280 mile range as the crow flies) and the best quote I got on one was $1500. In case that was your next question!
Highonda as D60s for $800. They need to be shipped, but last time I checked it was about $180 to ship one.

Silly question? How do you plan to haul this truck around?

Do you have a flatbed equipment trailer and a 1-ton?? :D

It sure isn't going to fit on a regular car trailer. And it sure isn't going to be street legal enough and/or streetable enough to make it to the hills on it's own.

Not a silly question at all. I have access to a a large flat bed trailer. my best bud has a flatbead we use to move a backhoe around on. My next project will be building a trailer. This project will actually help quite a bit! LOL

However, I am still thinking about registering it. I would have to run a full exaust to get it past DEQ but those guys don't have much to say about other design elements. Or I can just register it at my in-laws place and avoid the whole DEQ bit. Either way, I'd be risking getting a couple of tickets.

Graderball has been proven, the only reason I accept them is that you can tighted the mount around the ball. But it looks like thes are hitch balls ~ and I'm not so sure about those.

Does this make you feel a liiiittle better? (see pic below)

I took some good advise and "got rid of the chrome ones and got the black ones" they're 30,000 gvw trailer balls. Doesn't make the system perfect, but a bit stronger!

We had a crazy windstorm today. Lots of rain and 50-75mph winds (gusts to 114mph on the coast). My power was down most of the evening so I couldn't do much today. I visited my friends at Harbor Freight today and picke up a few items. I have to go get a bit that will allow me to drill out that 1 1/4" hole for the trailer balls. That will be on the menu for tomorrow.

I took my last vacation day to help the guy buying my old t-19 and D20 1) pick up the stuff and 2) get my companies price on a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel resurfacing. I think he's gonna stick around to help me finish constructing this center section! I should have some completed pics for you tomorrow!

I would rather jump with a 1 link over leaf springs

this is the only jump pic i have but mine has ben off the ground:grinpimp:
http://www.imgtank.com/thumb/700838hillclimb796.thumb.jpg
Click Me (http://www.imgtank.com/hpics/show.php?img=700838hillclimb796.jpg)

Nice! I just might have to give it a try!!!!! Better get an onboard welder!

BTW, s10 truggy, what size square tube did you use for your links? In the tread on the Cheby site :flipoff2: , you mentioned that you'd bend them before. Suggestions?

Ah, someone beat me to the pictures :mad: :( :mad: :( ~ SugarBear, too bad you weren't closer, I'd like to toy around building a custom cage with ya for that thing. :evil:

I wish you were closer too! I could use a little help when I get to that! I am also the king of the BBQ. After one taste, I'd be shipping you ribs instead of cash for my purchases! :p

I have seen slydog72007's Grader ball scout in person and it look pretty good and strong. I actually bought his front and rear Dana 44 with the rear grader ball set up when he switched to a 14 bolt rear and front dana 60.

I would be worried about to much play in the hitch ball mounts itself.

I never used the rear dana 44 setup with the GB, but keep it for a later project maybe?

I would be worried about to much play in the hitch ball mounts itself.

S10 truggy, any response to this? I plan on using the same Bulldog style a-frame couplers that you used. I believe this was addressed on your..... or I mean Bansheeman1's build thread.

I think the grader balls them self were pretty cheap! I think he said 15 bucks or less??

I think the grader balls them self were pretty cheap! I think he said 15 bucks or less??

not sure, I got the price from a thread talking specifically about them. I know there is a few pieces that have to be purchased seperately. I thought I saw price ranges from $200 to $300. Though I could be mistaken.

Edit/update: yeah I searched again, most people are saying the Cat dealerships and other places that carry them are asking between $202 and $400 for them

I was searching through some threads tonight, well this morning and found on about using eliptical springs with the 1-link setup. The guys in the picture swore by them. They used full length F250 and F350 springs mounted upside down. See pictures, on the second one you can see the mounting bracket near mid vehicle on the framerail. they used a small platform, welded to the frame for the spring to rest on and to achive the desired ride height then caged the spring in. This eliminated the need for a Panhard Bar.
Here's a link
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=472357&highlight=grader+ball , your thoughts?

Not a silly question at all. I have access to a a large flat bed trailer. my best bud has a flatbead we use to move a backhoe around on. My next project will be building a trailer. This project will actually help quite a bit! LOL

However, I am still thinking about registering it. I would have to run a full exaust to get it past DEQ but those guys don't have much to say about other design elements. Or I can just register it at my in-laws place and avoid the whole DEQ bit. Either way, I'd be risking getting a couple of tickets.

I pull mine with a 1/2 ton dodge:confused:

Nice! I just might have to give it a try!!!!! Better get an onboard welder!

BTW, s10 truggy, what size square tube did you use for your links? In the tread on the Cheby site :flipoff2: , you mentioned that you'd bend them before. Suggestions?

I used 2x4x1/4wall I had to beat it really really hard to bend just a little
I would use them again

S10 truggy, any response to this? I plan on using the same Bulldog style a-frame couplers that you used. I believe this was addressed on your..... or I mean Bansheeman1's build thread.

3 years NO slack no rattles nothing but happy with hitch setup

I was searching through some threads tonight, well this morning and found on about using eliptical springs with the 1-link setup. The guys in the picture swore by them. They used full length F250 and F350 springs mounted upside down. See pictures, on the second one you can see the mounting bracket near mid vehicle on the framerail. they used a small platform, welded to the frame for the spring to rest on and to achive the desired ride height then caged the spring in. This eliminated the need for a Panhard Bar.

Flex is good but to much flex will put you on your lid:eek:
I think it is to much work to look cool on a ramp
I also like my setup with same springs front and rear (before chopping body)
with the same flex front and rear the rig feels better on the trail
Now that the rear is lighter i may run softer springs on the rear We will see

I have a friend that run them front and rear w/ Rockwells and bulldog hitches. His is setup so the hitches are horizontal, not vertical. the ball is mounted on the end of the 1 link, pointing towards the T-case. The Bulldog is welded 'sideways' to big tube crossmembers. This setup is alot like the graderball, but cheaper..

I have run my 1 link for years w/ no problems. Its just a johnny joint for the pivot. Since I stepped up to 1 ton axles, I am going to redo it and use a bulldog..
My rig climbs like crazy and nothing has ever broken. Plenty of competitors have used this setup in the past including the Lovells,
Shane Chiddox's comp buggy (Took second in St. George)
Terry Howe's past two comp buggies (top 10 for series)
Sean Lazzelle's past comp buggys
Matt Peterson's past two comp buggies (top 10 for series)
Rocraven's past buggies (top 15 for series)


so why wont it work??? lol

Check my buildups,
http://www.dandcextreme.com/extremebuildups.asp

Project 2 for the way we set up our elliptical springs

This is true, RockWare (Matt's guys) are all 1-link with panhard/trackbars.

Works really well for RockRacing

Yahoo here we go
any stock picks to start with

Here's some pics of where I am starting from... now that is.

Got some work done today. Got a little help and advise from Robert, who came up from Coos Bay today to purchase my old Transmission and transfer case. Thanks Robert!

Got the holes for the trailer balls drilled, Got the first cuts for frame cut outs made and started cutting the rock slider/trailer ball protectors. All seems to be going well so far.

you better get this fab work out of the kitchen

or you may be in the dog house tonight:evil:

slap that thing in and hook a hitch to it:bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2:

you better get this fab work out of the kitchen

or you may be in the dog house tonight:evil:

slap that thing in and hook a hitch to it:bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2:

Ha haaaa! I am am actually in "the man zone" downstairs! She's got no say about how I use that space! Just finished drilling the holes for the slider/trailer ball protectors. I am gonna mount them with 1/2" grade 8 hardware so that I can replace them if needed.

If all goes well, I am gonna have the center section done tomorrow. All I have left is to finish cutting the sliders and complete the frame cut outs. I think I am gonna get some heavy angle and cut it a bit longer than the cross member is wide. I think 2 foot long pieces will do. I will then weld the crossmember to the angle which will be frame width on the inner surfaces. That way, the angle will be directly on the frame instead of that monster piece of metal.

My concern is that I may have to uses a lot of power to get the weld to penitrate that heavy steel. I am concerned that joining the two directly together could end up weakening the frame. This way, I can use some u-bolts to mock it up before final welding. When it's time to weld I will also be welding materials with closer wall thickness. If I had been welding often I may not be as concerned but I haven't laid a serious bead in a couple of years!

Did you weld your trailer balls in? I think I am going to. All of our rigs at work that have hitches have the balls welded in. I think it's a good idea I don't see that there will be a need to replace them anytime soon.

Did you do anything in the way of lubrication for the ball?

After a great deal of grinding, I got the center section nearly complete. As mentioned in the last post, I am going to get a couple of pieces of angle, that I will weld to the ends of the center section. I am going to have to do a little more work to get the inside surfaces of the angle to match the inside width of my vehicle's frame. Here's the pics!

BTW, I stopped by the military surplus store that I am getting the Rockwell axles from. The owner advised that he thinks he might win a contract for the disposal of used military vehicles. Apparently the fort that he'd be getting the stuff from has about 2 years worth of equipment to get rid of. He advised that he'd be selling the stuff for cheep as he will have a bunch of equipment to get rid of. I will let you all know if he does in fact get the contract. If you're in need of some parts, PM me and I will give you their information.

Last two pics.

Center section costs: 33" of 15 X 50 channel $50.00
3 feet of 3" X 5" 5/16 wall square tube. $25.00
2, 2 5/16" 30,000 gvw Trailer Balls $44.00
Grade 8 mounting hardware 12.00
Total materials: $131.00

Total costs to this point (including purchase of vehicle ETC): $1906
Parts sold the finance this build: $1050
Net out of pocket: $856.00

Major purchases left: Axles W/ tires and wheels $750.00
Steel for links: $150.00
Bulldog Hitches $126.00
Hydro steering system: 1000.00
Major purchases left: $2026

Soooo, a 1-link with a panyard is still considered a 1 link?

Soooo, a 1-link with a panyard is still considered a 1 link?

Well, I am not an expert, but everything that I've found here in Pirate that referanced a 1-link had one! That is except for the ones using eliptical springs to locate the axle. Not sure what defines a countable link, but for the purposes of ease, I will continue to to call this a 1-link just as everyone else is. "When in Rome...." :)

Where you at in S. OR?

I think bucky is in roseburg or somewhere close to that. But I could be way off.

I might be interested in some of that surplus. PM me the # and address of that place, please.

I think bucky is in roseburg or somewhere close to that. But I could be way off.

I might be interested in some of that surplus. PM me the # and address of that place, please.

Will do, I gotta go get one of the guy's cards. If you are fimiliar with the old surplus store in Damascus, OR, It's the same owner, just moved the place 15 miles to Boring, OR. Not sure if he actually has the contract. He told me he should know by the end of the month. I will burn you a PM as soon as I grab one of his cards, I am sure he's not listed yet as he has only been in his new place for a few months.

Will do, I gotta go get one of the guy's cards. If you are fimiliar with the old surplus store in Damascus, OR, It's the same owner, just moved the place 15 miles to Boring, OR. Not sure if he actually has the contract. He told me he should know by the end of the month. I will burn you a PM as soon as I grab one of his cards, I am sure he's not listed yet as he has only been in his new place for a few months.

I know that guy. I bought a lot of stuff from him back when I was getting parts at the damascus U pull it. Kinda weird guy but good prices on stuff. If I had 5 grand I would have a 5 ton military 6x6 water truck with a new cummins. But the bank was dry.

I know that guy. I bought a lot of stuff from him back when I was getting parts at the damascus U pull it. Kinda weird guy but good prices on stuff. If I had 5 grand I would have a 5 ton military 6x6 water truck with a new cummins. But the bank was dry.

He's got about 7 or 8 trucks now. If the price is right, I may pick up one sometime in the distant future (possibly w/ next year's bonus). I would like to get it set up to haul my scout around on. Not sure if the dimentions will allow it. It would be pretty cool if I could though. Anyway, I got his card yesterday. I will send you a PM now. He said he should find out if he got the contract around 5:00 yesterday. I haven't called him yet though.

Picked up 6' of 3 x 3 x 3/16" thick angle the other day ($17.00) Cut and ground the channel to make everything fit right. Should get it welded in tonight or tommorrow. I also picked up my Bulldog couplers today ($124.00 for both). I'll get some new picks posted tonight. So far everything seems to be going very smoothly with this project. Of course we'll see what happens when it's time to get everything put together! I appreciate everyones help and suggestions! Thanks and Merry X-mas!

I think bucky is in roseburg or somewhere close to that.

100 miles south, Medford.

After a few day welding refresher, I got everything together! Angle welded in, hitch balls welded in everything put back together ready for paint. Here's the pics.

what are you gonna do about dirt and water collecting in the dish part of your skid plate?

what are you gonna do about dirt and water collecting in the dish part of your skid plate?

I thought about that, I have a 7/8" holes saw blade that I got at the same time I bought the one to drill for the tailer balls. I think before the final install, I am gonna punch a few holes in it for drainage.

I love it when a plan comes together. Looking good so far.

Man unhitching your suspension would be the best trail prank ever....

Man unhitching your suspension would be the best trail prank ever....

Not gonna happen, unless the prankster has a angle grinder! Gonna tack the springloaded sleaves on the Bulldog hitch closed! I am pretty sure I'd notice someone under my rig with a grinder though! :cool2:

No significant progress since my last update. Waiting on my annual bonus, coming this month to pick up the axles. There are a couple of you waiting on the word from the Military surplus supplier. I've yet to call and ask if he got the disposal contract. I will try to call and ask tomorrow.

The next part I will be working on is the link building and axle installation. Stay tuned!

BTW, Look what I found! can you say next project. If I can get it for a good price I am gonna build this for the wife next. Yeah it's one of those, I'm buying it for you because I want it kind of things, but it will get her into wheeling with me more! I've had my eye on this thing for the last year or so. Hasn't moved an inch.

Today I found out how to contact the owner. If he wants more than I am willing to spend for it, I will let you guys know where it is... though some of you in the Corvallis, OR area may have already seen it.

Looks pretty good except for the moss on it, bald tires and a small dent on the rear, passanger side corner. They guy across the street said he heard someone start it up a few months back. Not sure of the year and exact model but I want it anyway! :D Just needs a little TLC.... and some 3/4 ton axles and 35" tires:D :D :D

just as an FYI, that scout you found is more valuable that a regular 80/800. That's either a sporttop or aristocrat(not an early scout guy), but I do know that that one's rare. It may be worth it to you to buy it, clean it up, and sell it, and pick up a common 80/800 with the cash, and have some profit to start the build with.

No, i'm not the guy who's gonna say don't ruin it it's a piece of history, if you buy it build the fawker up, just throwing that info out there because IIRC you're not a scout guy(as in you don't know each and every model:p ). Hell, it'd look sweet on 35's, just looks like a really good one to save and build up a different. Also don't know your situation to find scouts around there.

Yeah, its a sport top. Pretty rare bird. It would make a good chick wheeler, cuz she probably wouldn't beat it like one of us. If you buy it, take care of the top and glass.

just as an FYI, that scout you found is more valuable that a regular 80/800. That's either a sporttop or aristocrat(not an early scout guy), but I do know that that one's rare. It may be worth it to you to buy it, clean it up, and sell it, and pick up a common 80/800 with the cash, and have some profit to start the build with.

Yes, you're right, It is a sport top. Says so right on the side. Paint will be pretty good once the moss is removed. Interior is not terrible for an old truck but needs some work. I just took a quick look inside, but I coud swear I saw 3 sticks coming out of the floor!? No PTO up front. Overdrive??? I do think you're right though, might make a nice DD!

I thought it looked a bit different than the normal 80/800s i've seen.

I never understood why the designers of the Sport top didn't get a bigger sheet of paper. "Oh shoot, let's just stop the top 6" short of the tailgate!":shaking: :eek: :confused:

If you want a wheeler just wheel it. Maybe sell the top if you can get a buck for it but I doubt it.

I never quite got the look either:confused:

as for the 3 sticks, AFAIK all scout 80/800's had a twin stick d20 if 4wd. again, not an early scout guy

I never quite got the look either:confused:

as for the 3 sticks, AFAIK all scout 80/800's had a twin stick d20 if 4wd. again, not an early scout guy

Well, that explains it.

Finally got ahold of the guys at the Military surplus dealer. They did not get the disposal contract that they were bidding for.

For those of you who have used this system, what size material did you use for the links?

For those of you who have used this system, what size material did you use for the links?

S-10 Truggy advised the following: "I used 2x4x1/4wall [square tube] I had to beat it really really hard to bend just a little I would use them again." It seems that several most of the threads I've seen advised the use of similar link material.

For those of you who have used this system, what size material did you use for the links?
If we are talking about 1-links, the ones I've seen built by RockWare and used in several comps and XRRA races use what looked like 2x3 or 2x4 box.

i figured 2x4 would work, i was just hoping to be able to use something smaller because of limited space on the front. the rear shouldn't be a problem. i am more worried about the axle torque bending the links than hitting them on rocks.

I highly doubt that you need to worry about bending box tube with axle torque.

You really need to grap the Sport top. They are the rarest of the early Scouts and the tops are really hard to come by. They have lots of little items that are kind of cool. Like the rear windows are fully removable so when you roll the windows down you get the open cab feel. That one appears to be in really good shape most of the time the tops are beat to hell as they are glass and the windows are missing or broke. Hell buy it and sell it to finance your build.

i figured 2x4 would work, i was just hoping to be able to use something smaller because of limited space on the front. the rear shouldn't be a problem. i am more worried about the axle torque bending the links than hitting them on rocks.

axle torque will not hurt it at all
bashing on rocks with a 5900 lb. rig will bend anything
I just bent one a little only about 1/8 in the center
the front will see less rock bashing so 2x3 would work in the front
what will your rig weigh ?

Not sure of the weight, guessing 4500. It's a full bodied 800 minus top with all the junk in my sig. I think the 2x3 will look/fit better so I'll probably go that route. I think I'll try some sort of johnny joint at the frame.

You really need to grap the Sport top. They are the rarest of the early Scouts and the tops are really hard to come by. They have lots of little items that are kind of cool. Like the rear windows are fully removable so when you roll the windows down you get the open cab feel. That one appears to be in really good shape most of the time the tops are beat to hell as they are glass and the windows are missing or broke. Hell buy it and sell it to finance your build.


Got in touch with the owner, he does not want to sell it :( .

On a brighter note, it's just about bonus time! Should be able to get some more work done soon!

I've been thinking a bunch about steering lately. I was considering adding a big truck (international 4200) steering set up instead going hydro. I can get the big boxes at a discount through work. Hell, I might take the stock steering right off of the donor truck. I realize this would mean bracing and strengthening the frame where the box mounts. Any thoughts about that?

What kind of pressure do they require to run. I would think that they require more pressure and volume that what a stock pump puts out. Maybe not????

...I've been thinking a bunch about steering lately. I was considering adding a big truck (international 4200) steering set up instead going hydro. I can get the big boxes at a discount through work. Hell, I might take the stock steering right off of the donor truck. I realize this would mean bracing and strengthening the frame where the box mounts. Any thoughts about that?

How about 98 turns lock to lock?

What kind of pressure do they require to run. I would think that they require more pressure and volume that what a stock pump puts out. Maybe not????

Not sure, If I did it, I was going to take the Steering box, pump and reservoir though.

How about 98 turns lock to lock?

98 turns of the steering wheel lock to lock?

Finally got my bonus, after paying off a few bills, I'm now ready to move forward with this project. Went and got steel for the links today. 2x4x1/4" thick square tube. 24' for $110.00. I got the links in 4, 6' sections. I am sure they will need to be cut down a little, but I wanted to err on the long side. Got the first hitch mocked up for welding.

The surplus store is still dragging their feet getting the axles pulled out of the donor truck, so I am on hold for those. They advised that they were going to try to get them out next week for me.... depending on the weather.

For those of you that have done this already, how did you connect the links to the axle tubes? I've seen some that have been welded directly onto the front of the tube and have seen others that were bolted on, with u-bolts (links on top of the tubes). Suggestions?

I'm leaning towards a combination of both. I was thinking about making a cut out into the links so the axle tube fits into the cut out (on top of axle, about 2" deep) .That would allow me to weld on 3 sides of the axle tube. I would use the u-bolts to make sure every thing stayed in place and gusset as needed. This, along with the long length of the links, should help me keep the links a bit flatter to reduce some of the AS. Thoughts?

http://www.imgtank.com/thumb/495941b3614.thumb.jpg
Click Me (http://www.imgtank.com/hpics/show.php?img=495941b3614.jpg)

I welded mine to the axle on top and side

to do over i would raise it up to clear tie rod on the front end

http://www.imgtank.com/thumb/495941b3614.thumb.jpg
Click Me (http://www.imgtank.com/hpics/show.php?img=495941b3614.jpg)

I welded mine to the axle on top and side

to do over i would raise it up to clear tie rod on the front end

Figured you would come through for me! Thanks

Finally got my bonus, after paying off a few bills, I'm now ready to move forward with this project. Went and got steel for the links today. 2x4x1/4" thick square tube. 24' for $110.00. I got the links in 4, 6' sections. I am sure they will need to be cut down a little, but I wanted to err on the long side. Got the first hitch mocked up for welding.

The surplus store is still dragging their feet getting the axles pulled out of the donor truck, so I am on hold for those. They advised that they were going to try to get them out next week for me.... depending on the weather.

For those of you that have done this already, how did you connect the links to the axle tubes? I've seen some that have been welded directly onto the front of the tube and have seen others that were bolted on, with u-bolts (links on top of the tubes). Suggestions?

I'm leaning towards a combination of both. I was thinking about making a cut out into the links so the axle tube fits into the cut out (on top of axle, about 2" deep) .That would allow me to weld on 3 sides of the axle tube. I would use the u-bolts to make sure every thing stayed in place and gusset as needed. This, along with the long length of the links, should help me keep the links a bit flatter to reduce some of the AS. Thoughts?


I coped out the 2x4 tubing and welded to axle top,bottom and both sides. What is the distance between your tubes at the axle? Looks good keep it coming. Camera phone pic doesn't show to well but you get the idea.

Thoughts?
I think welding on the kitchen floor is bad for the lenoleum.:D

I think welding on the kitchen floor is bad for the lenoleum.:D

LOL, No that's the floor downstairs in the "man zone". It's comming up soon so I am not too concerned about it. I will be putting something down before I actually start welding though.

I coped out the 2x4 tubing and welded to axle top,bottom and both sides. What is the distance between your tubes at the axle? Looks good keep it coming. Camera phone pic doesn't show to well but you get the idea.

That's actually the thing that is holding me up right now. With 72" links, I am pretty sure that I am too wide at the axle side (around 64" right now). I don't have my axles yet so I am not sure of the exact width of the axle tube (width of potential mounting surface that is). Do you (or anyone else) happen to know what that width is? I will be running a regular rear rockwell axle in the rear and of course, a rockwell front up front. Looks like some bending may be in order before I can start welding.

I had a CAD file of the rockwells and for some reason I think it was almost 44" outside axle tube to outside. The 5/8" plate that is at the front of my links had to be bent to bring the legs of the links in far enough where it wouldn't hit frame during stuff of the axle. I then added gussets out of 2x4 to the outer most part of the tubes.

So, I thought about getting my links bent to the correct width but I wasn't thrilled about it. I after a little brainstorming, I decided to make the angle on the couplers more acute. Here's some pics of the semi-finished products. I am gonna get a piece of 1/8 inch plate to weld to the top of the couplers to finish them off.

Now I am right at 40" to the outsides of my links. That seems to be a width that I can work with. Still, I am gonna wait until I get my axles before I weld the plate to the top of the couplers, just in case the angle needs a little more tweeking.

Are the axle "tubes" on the rockwell cast or steel? Any problem welding to them? Looks like you guys did it without any problems... was that the case?

Nice build thread. I am very interested in this because I will probably be doing the same thing in the next year.

Nice build thread. I am very interested in this because I will probably be doing the same thing in the next year.

Thanks, I've been trying to be pretty detailed without over simplifing things! I'm glad you like it so far, stay tuned for more! Feel free to make suggestions or comments. Many people's suggestions have already changed the way this build is being done. - Ray

For those of you that have done this already, how did you connect the links to the axle tubes? I've seen some that have been welded directly onto the front of the tube and have seen others that were bolted on, with u-bolts (links on top of the tubes). Suggestions?

I'm leaning towards a combination of both. I was thinking about making a cut out into the links so the axle tube fits into the cut out (on top of axle, about 2" deep) .That would allow me to weld on 3 sides of the axle tube. I would use the u-bolts to make sure every thing stayed in place and gusset as needed. This, along with the long length of the links, should help me keep the links a bit flatter to reduce some of the AS. Thoughts?

I think I have this figured out. I got some 1/2 inch plate today. I am going to weld a couple of pieces of the plate to the links at the axle end. I will get some heavy, square style u-bolts, drill holes in the plate and bolt the plate to the top of the axle tube.

now this may have been talked about earlier but man this thread is huge so im gonna ask it before i read it... i know you would get some great flex, but how would it be with the round towing hoops instead of the trailer hitch ball...:confused: :confused:

now this may have been talked about earlier but man this thread is huge so im gonna ask it before i read it... i know you would get some great flex, but how would it be with the round towing hoops instead of the trailer hitch ball...:confused: :confused:

If I am thinking of the same thing your speaking of, they do not have a very tight fit do they. That would = rearend moving forward and backwards @ the pivit point which would inturn be rough on equipment.

If I am thinking of the same thing your speaking of, they do not have a very tight fit do they. That would = rearend moving forward and backwards @ the pivit point which would inturn be rough on equipment.

yeah i guess your right, didnt think of that. those things do move around around alot, instead of being pinned down, it has a big ring to move around in...

yeah i guess your right, didnt think of that. those things do move around around alot, instead of being pinned down, it has a big ring to move around in...

Yip, I used a grater ball set up on mine. Actually had to use machine washers in between the clamp to get the right fit and not much slop.

Yip, I used a grater ball set up on mine. Actually had to use machine washers in between the clamp to get the right fit and not much slop.

How much anti-squat do you have? i.e. how much does the back end lift when you get on the throttle?

How much anti-squat do you have? i.e. how much does the back end lift when you get on the throttle?

Don't know yet. I still have about 1 or 2 months of work. A buddy and me set it up and he has done a couple of the 1 links on other trucks with good success. Hope mine works as good as those do.

How much anti-squat do you have? i.e. how much does the back end lift when you get on the throttle?

That would be a good question for "S10 truggy". He's been running his for a couple of years.

The reason I ask is because that's the one complaint I've heard about with the 1-link. I need to do more research but I think keeping the link as long and as level as possible helps. Kind of hard to do with a long drivetrain (i.e. doubler).

The reason I ask is because that's the one complaint I've heard about with the 1-link. I need to do more research but I think keeping the link as long and as level as possible helps. Kind of hard to do with a long drivetrain (i.e. doubler).

I agree! That's what I am trying to accomplish with my 72" links. I will most likely loose a bit of that length when it comes to mounting, but they still will be pretty long. I am going to keep thinks pretty flat by mounting the links to the top of the axle tube.

I had planned on going to a doubler, but after looking at the design i'm using, I didn't think that would work. So I sold my T-19 and Dana 20 case, I got an IHC T-35 5-speed (7.17:1 first gear!!! :D ) and a divorced NP205 to run behind it. I am planning on mounting the 205 very close behind that t-35 and directly above the 1-link mounting crossmember. based on my preliminary measurments, I am getting a little nervous about the mounting location being where i want it. I may have to make some adjustments to the motor mount locations. But it's close, I may be able to make it work as it is. For my use, with the 6.72:1 axle ratio in the rockwells, this should give me enough low gearing to do whatever I want (Final crawl ratio of about 94:1 If i remember correctly).

Oh yeah I remember now. You're going to have the outrageously long wheelbase. If I'm reading this right your axle is going to be 72inches behind your NP205 output? :eek:

How much anti-squat do you have? i.e. how much does the back end lift when you get on the throttle?

I have never run the numbers (i don't have excel)
the amount of anti-squat my rig has was stopped by good shocks
I am going to build a buggy for my son and I will use a 1link again

What is the problem with using a doubler and a one link?
drive shaft room?


in all the trucks i have seen with one links the ones with leaf springs in the front suffer with anti-squat and bouncing (not sure the difference)

Oh yeah I remember now. You're going to have the outrageously long wheelbase. If I'm reading this right your axle is going to be 72inches behind your NP205 output? :eek:

Well, that's the overall length of the links. I got them long because It's easier make them shorter than longer. I have an idea where I want the axles to end up in relation to the body. It puts my wheelbase around 124", so I am sure the links will lose some length.

What is the problem with using a doubler and a one link?
drive shaft room?


For me, I want the suspension crossmember to be mounted under the t-case. If my drivetrain was much longer, it would be hard to do this(with out a seperate mounting crossmember for the front). You would have to run a short drive line to a carrier bearing, with another driveline going down to the front diff.... which is still a possibilty I may be faced with to clear the tranny.

What is the problem with using a doubler and a one link?
drive shaft room?


A stock Scout II has a 100" wheelbase with a 40" rear driveshaft. if you make the drivetrain longer than stock you don't have much room for the link unless you move the rear axle way back like SBear is doing.

Updates?

Updates?

A little bit of an update.

I purchased my springs last week. I got a junkyard special on 4, 2" lift springs from an "84" F-350. Got some steel plate to make into the "Link to axle mounting surface". Cut Shackles, they still need shaping and drilling though.

The big hold up right now is that The Surplus Store is dragging their feet taking my axles out of the rig. I'd like to have the axles when I begin to weld everything together so I have some things on hold for a bit.

Today, I spent some time in microsoft paint drafting out my suspention mounting plans. I have nearly everything I need to begin putting all the pieces together and into the truck. While I am waiting on the axles, I am going to finish shaping the shackles and building the spring hangers. Here's my drafts. Feel free to comment... like I have to tell you that though!

Yeah I know they're kinda rough, I don't claim to be a computer wizard. I just wanted to put something down to get a better visial idea of what I am planning to put together with the hopes that I would see any glaring issues.

Cut once measure twice... guess I figured it was the other way around. I went out to the rig today to take some measurements and realized my frame rails are 3" across not the 2" I had in my head. Why does this matter? Well. My 1-link crossmember is made to fit between framerails 29" apart. The ones in the rig are 27"! Well it gives me something else to work on while I'm waiting for the axles. I spoke to the surplus owner and he advised he should be able to get them out within the next month..... not what I wanted to hear... but have some other work to do now so It's not so bad.

Damn I can't believe I did that!

Cut once measure twice... guess I figured it was the other way around. I went out to the rig today to take some measurements and realized my frame rails are 3" across not the 2" I had in my head. Why does this matter? Well. My 1-link crossmember is made to fit between framerails 29" apart. The ones in the rig are 27"! Well it gives me something else to work on while I'm waiting for the axles. I spoke to the surplus owner and he advised he should be able to get them out within the next month..... not what I wanted to hear... but have some other work to do now so It's not so bad.

Damn I can't believe I did that!

I don't think you want to cut once before you measure twice. :flipoff2:
Swap that around and I'd have to agree.

I don't think you want to cut once before you measure twice. :flipoff2:
Swap that around and I'd have to agree.

LOL, I see my problem now!

Cut once measure twice... guess I figured it was the other way around. I went out to the rig today to take some measurements and realized my frame rails are 3" across not the 2" I had in my head. edit..

We have all made mistakes:p I used the cutoff wheel on the die grinder to "unweld" items:D

We have all made mistakes:p I used the cutoff wheel on the die grinder to "unweld" items:D

That's exactly what I had planned! Just couldn't bring myself to do it tonight though! I think I will start in on it tomorrow! Well, I guess it's today now!

Been debating for a while about what I was going to do about Tires and Wheels. Well today while leaving Corvallis, OR, I dropped into a used tractor store when I saw a huge pile of old tractor tires. As it happens that mountain of tires were all trash. However, they did have another, somewhat smaller mountain of good ones too. I informed the guy at the counter what I wanted to do and he said he had what I needed. It appears I am not the first to come to him for 4x4 tires. He showed me a set of 18.4 x 16.1 and I knew they'd work nicely. I found the official new tire dimentions on a tractor tire site. They are 18.4" wide by 44.80" tall. I attached a pic I also got from the site.

Cost on them is only $150 each with the rim being an additional $75 They use a 16" wheel so I may look at other options since I will have to have them re-centered for the rockwell axle. Anyone know a place that recenters wheels close to NW Oregon?

Well the folks there had plenty of tractor tires so If anyone else is looking for some, PM me for the store info.

S10 Truggy, was just re-reading your build thread. Looks like the same tires you're running. Is that in fact a 16" wheel" How they working for you?

Been debating for a while about what I was going to do about Tires and Wheels. Well today while leaving Corvallis, OR, I dropped into a used tractor store when I saw a huge pile of old tractor tires. As it happens that mountain of tires were all trash. However, they did have another, somewhat smaller mountain of good ones too. I informed the guy at the counter what I wanted to do and he said he had what I needed. It appears I am not the first to come to him for 4x4 tires. He showed me a set of 18.4 x 16.1 and I knew they'd work nicely. I found the official new tire dimentions on a tractor tire site. They are 18.4" wide by 44.80" tall. I attached a pic I also got from the site.

Cost on them is only $150 each with the rim being an additional $75 They use a 16" wheel so I may look at other options since I will have to have them re-centered for the rockwell axle. Anyone know a place that recenters wheels close to NW Oregon?

Well the folks there had plenty of tractor tires so If anyone else is looking for some, PM me for the store info.

S10 Truggy, was just re-reading your build thread. Looks like the same tires you're running. Is that in fact a 16" wheel" How they working for you?

like a dummy i squeezed them on a 16.5 hummer man what a mountain of work that was
if mine were any good to start with i would still be running them
they worked very well
they just had a lot of dry rot and old patch's in them (free was good tho )

the local tire ship told me the the 16.1 size is the same as a 16
it just has that size to show them as "off road" size
to do over i would have just slapped some bead locks on a set of 16's

the local tire ship told me the the 16.1 size is the same as a 16
it just has that size to show them as "off road" size
to do over i would have just slapped some bead locks on a set of 16's

I was looking at a tractor tire site and tried to figure out the codes for tractor tire sizes. The first number always seems to be the section width. I thought the second number measured the height of the sidwall from the rim to top of the tire, but they show 18.4-16.1 for both a 16" and a 20" rim. Both show to be 44.8" tall. Other sizes do the same thing. But it seems the "16.1 is a measure of something other than the rim?

Whatever it is, I love the size! I was considering running military take offs because they are cheep. I was having trouble swallowing $400.00 for shipping though. I also like wider tires so I wasn't sold on them. These babys will be just right! More traction and a lower final drive ratio.

S10, They looked huge on your truck! Until I re-read your thread, I thought the yours were bigger! Do those things have tubes in them? Looked like it on the picture I found. What are you running now?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=290414&stc=1&d=1172629333
I've never seen a spring setup like that, I'm interested to see how well it works.

About the tires, a friend bought a mud truck for parts, it had 44 inch ag tires on the back and 44 inch ground hawgs on the front, 8 lug rims. He's never used them, but the PO said his truck was "king of the mud pit".

I was looking at a tractor tire site and tried to figure out the codes for tractor tire sizes. The first number always seems to be the section width. I thought the second number measured the height of the sidwall from the rim to top of the tire, but they show 18.4-16.1 for both a 16" and a 20" rim. Both show to be 44.8" tall. Other sizes do the same thing. But it seems the "16.1 is a measure of something other than the rim?

Whatever it is, I love the size! I was considering running military take offs because they are cheep. I was having trouble swallowing $400.00 for shipping though. I also like wider tires so I wasn't sold on them. These babys will be just right! More traction and a lower final drive ratio.

S10, They looked huge on your truck! Until I re-read your thread, I thought the yours were bigger! Do those things have tubes in them? Looked like it on the picture I found. What are you running now?

the first set i ran was a set of titan's
thay are 45 inch tall tires (barrowed form a frend)
the set i winded up with were goodyears that measured 41 inches (free)
I got a set of 47 ltb's now
if i had 16 inch rims i would have just got new 16.1's
but i was not going to put new tires on and have to grind the bead down:eek:

h

All things Tractor Tire.

http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=9802

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=290414&stc=1&d=1172629333
I've never seen a spring setup like that, I'm interested to see how well it works.

There is a few similar setups around. Pics of a couple of them are posted earlier in the thread (Pg 3). To get around the hump in the rear of the frame I am thinking of adding a piece of channel that runs from one flat section to the other. Otherwise my spring would have to be mounted in the hump. But there is a chance that may actually work well depending on how and where I end up needing the axle end to be.

this one is cool

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/s10truggy/rear_suspension1.jpg

this one is cool

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/s10truggy/rear_suspension1.jpg

Yes it is!

Nice shocks:flipoff2: I suspect the ram is running the oil through an orifice and then back into it's self. I've seen this setup on tilt trailers to act as a huge shock. This way you can drive up on the trailer and not have it slam down.

not a shock at all
it is adjustable with hydro
he can change ride height with the touch of a button

all right, I got the ends of the cross member "unwelded" man was that a pain in the A55! I should have it back together later today or tomorrow. I have a bunch of cleaning up to do, nothing my trusty angle grinder can't handle pretty quickly, though I spent most of my grinding wheels getting the thing apart! I may have to pick up some more tomorrow. Thank goodness for Harbor Freight and friends that give me Harbor Freight gift cards for the holidays! Once this is done I can move onto other things. Next up, removing the old suspension from the scout. That should be fun! :D

Got the crossmember done (right this time) and back together last week. Today, I finished welding my links together. Right now, from end to end it's 163" long! I figure I'll be taking around 15 to 20 inches off of each end to put my wheelbase between 133 and 123". right about where I want to be. Still no axles yet, but now that this part is pretty much done I am going to start prepping the truck for installation. Here's a few pics.

Well, the surplus store is dragging their feet. So I am starting to take care of the rest of the drivetrain insallation. Took 11' cluch pressure plate and the t-35 flywheel for rebuilding/resurfacing today. Should get them back Wednesday. Once I get them back. I am gonna slap the engine and tranny together and get them put in the truck. I really needed to do this anyway to to make sure the suspension crossmember is in the correct location. Once that's together, if they still don't have the rockwells out, I am gonna get a cheep set of 3/4 ton chev. axles to put in temporarily until I find another set of rockwells or win the lottery! I should have some real progress over the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned!

What's up Redneck!!! I've been lurking on this site and your thread for some time, finally set up an account a week ago or so, thought I'd post up today. Bummer the axle dudes are dragging. I could call the few local's and check here for you if you want. Probably nothing, but never know. Well, don't want to say too much more, hate to get flamed for hijacking..... these guys are scary..... Robert

What's up Redneck!!! I've been lurking on this site and your thread for some time, finally set up an account a week ago or so, thought I'd post up today. Bummer the axle dudes are dragging. I could call the few local's and check here for you if you want. Probably nothing, but never know. Well, don't want to say too much more, hate to get flamed for hijacking..... these guys are scary..... Robert


Well Robert, you've got half the battle won! You've watched people get torched for a while so you know what the guys on this site expect! I got introduced to that the hard way! Where's "around here" for you?

.... Sometimes I forget there's more than one Robert in the world... I'm the guy who bought your tranny..... THAT Robert (in Coos Bay).

.... Sometimes I forget there's more than one Robert in the world... I'm the guy who bought your tranny..... THAT Robert (in Coos Bay).

oK. how you doing robert? You called me with a question a while back. I erased the message cause I thought I had your number saved, but I didn't! What was it you needed again, if you didn't get an answer?

I just got my clutch etc... back from Ott's. The did a beautiful job. I hope yours turned out well too!

Got the crossmember for the divorced NP 205 cut to size and in place today. I took measurements from the engine and transmission to figure out that they should go back about 49" from the engine mounts to the rear yoke. Took the measurements to see where I would have to put the crossmember. It wasn't as far back as I had thought (that's a good thing!) It should work out very nicely.

To get the crossmember in without a body lift or cutting the floor out, I had to cut the crossmember down a bit. This will mean the NP 205 will hang a but lower than the frame rails. Well that won't work with my 1-link cross member! The fix? I've decided to add a new frame rail under the stockones. I am going to grab some 3 x 3 or 3 x 5 square tube weld it to the center frame rails and mount my crossmember. This should bring it down enough to clear the 205. It won't mess up my break over clearance because that is were the suspension mounts too. As a bonus, I'll be able to fit some longer shocks in. Any thoughts? Sorry pics came out blurry.

Wholesale truck parts found the stick shifter and cover yesterday. I picked it up today! One less thing to have to worry about!

UPDATE ?

Well, I've had this project on hold for a minute am working on getting a new business off the ground. Having said that, I was actually thinking about picking up some material today to start work again! It' funny that I got to work and saw an update e-mail!

The current issue is that my t-case hangs a bit too low. I am going grab some 3" x 5" heavy walled square tube and add them to the bottom of the frame rails to lower the link crossmember.

This won't cause clearence issues because the links will go down from there, in essence it will give me a 5" lift. Post up when I get er going.

that will make suspension numbers better
flatten the link more

Not sure which is better....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=277138&stc=1&d=1165903857

or

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315145&stc=1&d=1184614204

:flipoff2:

that will make suspension numbers better
flatten the link more

My thought exactly. I've got a couple of jobs left to do, but i should be able to get back to work on it soon.

where to find more on that amazing rigs

this one is cool

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/s10truggy/rear_suspension1.jpg

more info please on that rigs please

update>?

more info please on that rigs please


Now that is a cool Scout!!! Some kinda Scout CJ... :smokin:

When I look at this

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=290414&stc=1&d=1172629333

I feel like if you were running down hill, and applied the brakes, or even if it just got too steep, the rear suspension would unload all the way to the limiting straps.... creating a potential for endo, much like the problems with double shackles. IDK, maybe you have that covered. Like the build. :smokin:

did this ever get finished??