Since you all didn't really care for my steering setup what about my ram assist... don't mention the hose routing that has already been fixed..

http://www.tpijeep.com/ramassist_001.jpg
http://www.tpijeep.com/ramassist_002.jpg
http://www.tpijeep.com/ramassist_005.jpg

Its a 2" x 8" stroke, using a KRC PS pump with a 1450 psi max rating, 8 Liter per minute flow rate...

nice work,what did you do about that pass.side arrangement?
gonna run it and see if it works?

I lowered the spacer to the bare min and am going to get an F911 grade 9 aerospace bolt and let her rip for now...

i kept mumbling to myself about a stronger grade bolt but couldn't put my finger on it. i think you are ready rock:D .

Looks cool to me...

However, you could lose about 5 lbs by trimming those spring plates a little :flipoff2:

first one ive seen go to the knuckle!
looks like it would work ok......

That looks real good. Attaching the ram to the knuckle is the best way to do it without a doubt, super stout. How did you get the clevis to fit over the knuckle so well?

Just build a guard for the ram and you'll be ready to rock!

CJ

Originally posted by CJ Lagos
Just build a guard for the ram and you'll be ready to rock!

CJ

i agree. that is the only thing i see bign a problem. that ram is out there waitig to get smashed by a rock. those things must be pretty stout though because i have seen them unprotected many times.

1) indeed, build a ram protection - if(actually when...) it gets hit by a rock the ram would bend and give you a reall hyard time.

2) why are'nt the spring plates bent a bit up on the lines that touch the spring packs? also can cause problems.

3) is'nt the right nipple on on the cylinder too close to the spring pack?
it sure does look like it. if it is, it will probably get in contact while articulating.

not trying to be a wise ass, just to ad some useful??:) remarks.

2" too big, will be too slow, 1.5" way to go, ask the guys that sell the kits:eek:

Looks good TPIJeep,
I do have a few questions though.

Did you drill and tap that power steering gear box yourself, or did you have somebody do it for you? I haven't ever seen it tapped there before.

Second, is that the stock power steering gear box mounting plate I see, or is that custom built one? It looks like the stock one. If so, I would either build a new one that is alot more stout, or I would just buy one from someone like Sam's Offroad. I realize that with the ram, you will have decreased stress on the mounting plate, but they are still prone to breaking. I have watched a couple of my friends plates disentegrate before my eyes.

Third and final question, is the ram mounting point on the axle welded to the center section, or to the axle tube. If they are welded to the center section, how did you weld them? Did you heat up the housing and then use a high nickel rod or wire? Just curious.

Otherwise, it looks really good. I do like how you mounted the ram to the knuckle. That is trick.

Originally posted by SeaBass44
2" too big, will be too slow, 1.5" way to go, ask the guys that sell the kits:eek:

Too slow for a commonly street driven vehicle, or one on smaller than 40" or therabouts tires. I street drive my truck with a 2x8 ram assist, but it's on 44's. If it's trail-only on smaller tires, or low-street-mileage on big tires, 2" is fine. 1.5" is better for frequent street use, but can be harder to find/mount. TPI, I didn't see what size tires you're running, nor do I know your driving habits, but I'm going to say that the 2" should be OK, but you'll probably notice occasionally, the ram playing "catchup" with the box.

Ouibus, I think his ram mount is to the tube, but I'm not real sure. I mounted mine to the diff casting, literally right on top of the pumpkin, and since it's a relatively low-stress item, I MIG'd it right on. Haven't ever had a problem with it after welding it (had a few tacks break when I was mocking it up) on solidly. I know this is technically "bad" and all, but the stress levels on a ram assist are really low, vs. the strength of the junction. I wouldn't have done a full hydro steer that way.

I didn't look closely at the box mounting plate to the frame--you can get away with a really marginal box mount with ram assist, but overkill on steering parts is always better.

Originally posted by the frog

2) why are'nt the spring plates bent a bit up on the lines that touch the spring packs? also can cause problems.

3) is'nt the right nipple on on the cylinder too close to the spring pack?



Answer to Question #2, cause I am a dumbass and need to make new ones.. :D

#3 I have new lines run now and have about 1" between the line and the nipple, hopefully my spring will not flex that much 2 inches from the perch.

Thanks for the comments man, and good luck in TTC, your going to smoke their butts...

Originally posted by ouibus
Looks good TPIJeep,
I do have a few questions though.

Did you drill and tap that power steering gear box yourself, or did you have somebody do it for you? I haven't ever seen it tapped there before.

Second, is that the stock power steering gear box mounting plate I see, or is that custom built one? It looks like the stock one. If so, I would either build a new one that is alot more stout, or I would just buy one from someone like Sam's Offroad. I realize that with the ram, you will have decreased stress on the mounting plate, but they are still prone to breaking. I have watched a couple of my friends plates disentegrate before my eyes.

Third and final question, is the ram mounting point on the axle welded to the center section, or to the axle tube. If they are welded to the center section, how did you weld them? Did you heat up the housing and then use a high nickel rod or wire? Just curious.

Otherwise, it looks really good. I do like how you mounted the ram to the knuckle. That is trick.

I drilled and tapped the box myself took about 10 min, but try and borrow the tap because they run in the 40 buck range....

Yes that is the stock mount, that is down the road on the list of mods... :D

The ram mount is welded to the tube itself, I made a little bracket that come back and around the casting and gave myself about 3.5" of weld surface on the tube.

I sorta rigged the knuckle side but it works great and gives me a few added inches of clearance, the ram is above the centerline of the axle and a guard is in the works.


Scott, the 2" does have to play catch up a bit but I have a KRC racing pump and am in the works of getting a bigger port for it, it can be pumped up to 12 liters per minute and maintain the 1450 psi rating where as right now it moves 8 LPM, that should help the lag, I run 38.5's and may go to 42's before long...

Originally posted by TPIJeep
Scott, the 2" does have to play catch up a bit but I have a KRC racing pump and am in the works of getting a bigger port for it, it can be pumped up to 12 liters per minute and maintain the 1450 psi rating where as right now it moves 8 LPM, that should help the lag, I run 38.5's and may go to 42's before long...

Is the porting in the box (through the directional control valve) big enough to accomodate the higher flow? The "catchup" is usually due more to the steering box not flowing enough fluid, than the pump being unable to keep up. The fluid has to go through the directional valve on the steering box first, and most of those ports are 3/16" or sometimes smaller. The biggest pump in the world, can only flow so much, through a 3/16" hole.

Nice setup... Which cooler is that?? I only have a small fuel / PS cooler on mine right now and am looking at replacing it.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


Is the porting in the box (through the directional control valve) big enough to accomodate the higher flow? The "catchup" is usually due more to the steering box not flowing enough fluid, than the pump being unable to keep up. The fluid has to go through the directional valve on the steering box first, and most of those ports are 3/16" or sometimes smaller. The biggest pump in the world, can only flow so much, through a 3/16" hole.

Good point Scott, I may be beating a dead horse, now that All the air is out of the lines and the ram mount is very secure to the axle tube it drives just fine. Going to let it be for a while.

mnstr_fx,

The cooler is a Moroso transmission cooler/filter I got from Summit Racing, work nice and has a replacable filter element.



:D

Hey thats a good idea for mounting the ram.

I have the same one and have been wondering how I should mount it.
The huge ends on the ram make it a pain in the ars to mount.

Let me know if the ram helps you tear the knuckle off:D

What size drill and tap set did you use for the box and which fittings did you use in the box? o-ring, pipe, flare? I am going to the top of the box in the casting if I can stomach the rebuild. I think it should work the same. Thanks

Originally posted by riksnacjnow
What size drill and tap set did you use for the box and which fittings did you use in the box? o-ring, pipe, flare? I am going to the top of the box in the casting if I can stomach the rebuild. I think it should work the same. Thanks

3/8 NPT tap, the fitting is a standard 3/8 hydraulic flare. Real simple to tap the alum covers and if you fawk up you can find more... :D