Recap on the Toterhome - The uhaul RV has left for Va. and will be making its way to the LasVagas area after the new year with an older couple moving thier home and Mini coopers out west to retire..

So, I had been kicking around my other plans and what worked didn't etc & why.. I had considered building a box, mini truck camper, etc.. So i came full circle back to the sleeper cab plan. I ended up finding one i really liked for a decient price and ran up to Ohio (thanks Bruiser for barrowing your trailer) to get it..

Heres the new, dog house.. :) Its off a 97 Kenworth

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Plans call for a mini RV door on the front to start then go from there.. Also thinking a fold up/down wind screen on the front that will be suspended out over the toung (above the truck box) that will function as a mini awning when up.


Ok.... So im looking at getting a 20' w/2x6000# axles, I'm set on the tag trailer option as I will need to ability to front manauver the trailer with my current parking situation. That and i really don't want a gooseneck.. So that leads me to the current issue. I am looking at having a local guy (RockCity) build it for me ($$maybe$$) I need to provide some input on axle setback etc.. I have a new WD hitch setup so that I will use. so.....

I have 3 modes that I need to be able to tow in:
1) Empty trailer or Jeep only
2) Sleeper only
3) Sleeper and Jeep

#1 - I think that if I can get the trailer empty to have ~400# toung that will cover me there.. And I can adjust the jeep placment on an empty trailer np.

#2 - Using 1000# with only the Sleeper on the front that takes me to 1500# tonge. High est. as I know some weight will shift to the trailer axles. And the WD hitch should carry me. One option was to make an alternate mounting spot for the infrequent possibility that I do haul just the sleeper..

#3 - Sleeper and Jeep - since I will only have a few feet to adjust the jeep. (my jeep is 52/48 balanced) I was kicking aorund the idea of how to make the axles on a small tray that could be moved to find the optimal balance point for the fully loaded configuration.

Would some 3" angle bolted to the frame then the spring hangers/idler welded to that work ? Was thinking if the inside frame was plated a U shaped tray could be made to slide on the frame rail than bolted ?



Sorry I forgot whos this is.. but how is the tonge weight ? (when the jeep is off)

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Some more of the sleeper..


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I wonder how many lot lizards got shagged in that thing?:D :D :flipoff2:

LOL - Lets just say we'll be springing for a new matress, washing the curtains and ill be sanitizing the inside, good thing its mostly vinyl interior :)

Would one of those fit behind a pickup cab say on a dually frame without the bed- used commercial truck deal?

Also, what does something like that go for?

I've often thought of getting a Crew Cab Truck and swapping out the cab for a single cab,then putting a sleeper like that on followed by a short pickup bed behind that.

But, I like having the space behind my seat to throw my grandkids, jacket and junk, so I dismissed the idea.

I thought you sold the U Haul to get the side of the yard opened up again. And now your talking about putting a trailer in there. Harder to move a trailer than the U Haul I would think.

But, hey what do I know. Only got 5 acres to park my junk on.:laughing:

I gotta say though, I enjoy your innovation.

Waiting to see how this one turns out. :flipoff2:


Curtis

I wonder how many lot lizards got shagged in that thing?:D :D :flipoff2:

We had a club show and shine at a local auto parts store.

Truck showed up to deliver the good. girl that worked there came out and hopped in to deliver her goods.

she came back out of the truck with a sheepish looking grin and a shirt not tucked in in the back. sheepish - because we all watched her hop in the truck, leave, return, and hop back out with a big grin on her face. :laughing:

I know im a habitual project starter... :)

ok, so do they make kootie spray bombs ? LOL

I paid $600 for the box. On a trailer it will be lower than the overhang on the house so that frees up more maeuvering space... Plus the RV was 32' long with a 10' overhang on the back, and I was backing up between my house and a small wall.. Ive put trailers in my yard before np.. The problem is when i hit the street all my fucking neighbors vehicles..

Go and look at OTR trailers, specifically 53' van trailers. They have a pin/slider setup so the axles can be unpinned, trailer brakes applied, and tractor pulled forward or back, then repinned, changing weight transfer. I know this is done with either leaf springs or air ride suspension. Good luck. Or even look at the 5th wheel on OTR trucks, they have a slider/lock setup that may be copied for your trailer.

Michael

Hey Mike - I have a semi trailer sitting in the pasture at my in-laws house on 751 now, to store all the crap that used to be in my barn at the old house. You are welcome to check out how that pinned-slider thing works to make the axles adjustable (we can't actually adjust it, but we can look at it all you want to). But there might be other semi trailers closer to you than my place is. :)

Glad I could help.. now get a trailer so we can go wheeling :)

Ya, HUGE thanks ken for not only delivering your trailer to my house, letting me put 1200 miles on it to drag this thing home, THEN coming over with john and greg? to help me unload it, and picking up your trailer... I'm just waiting for you to say your ready to start your garage project..


I've seen the big rig sliders i was just curious if anyone had seen it impliemented on a smaller trailer, also not wanting to add any height to the trailer..

Ya, HUGE thanks ken for not only delivering your trailer to my house, letting me put 1200 miles on it to drag this thing home, THEN coming over with john and Scott to help me unload it, and picking up your trailer so you can take it home... I'm just waiting for you to say your ready to start your garage project....


We in the Carolina's call that SERVICE with a Smile :)


hehehhe

Picked up my new trailer...

They built it to my specs...
It's a (name removed) brand 22'x82" open center 5" channel frame w/ 5" wrap around tongue.
2- 6k brake axles w/ 16" radial 10plys.
Had them rate it to 9990#
Ramps in a tray in the rear center are pined and can be locked.
Rubber mounted lights on the rear.
Drop leg mounted near the tongue so i have camper door room.
Tongue pulled out some extra. 4.5' from deck to ball..
Got spare tire loose so i could figure out where I wanted to mount it..
6' radiused dove in the back..
deck height is 24"

Oh ya I filled up and scaled my truck at a truckstop on the way to get it then on the way back.. So with spare and all it weighs 2750# and ~320# tongue weight.

Out the door w/ permanent tag title and tax was $3095

Need to make a few mods to get the sleeper up on there. and as typical with kraftsman the wiring sucks and I need to put a decent whip/harness plug on it. (I was expecting this... They use good wire but use those skotchlock crimp connectors)

To be honest no body wires a trailer how I would so no sense paying extra for they to even try.. When i have any trouble I will rerun separate brake wires to the tounge and put a small switch box up there to allow easy problem determination or isolation.

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Man you sure don't play around do you? :laughing: I didn't even realize you got rid of the U-haul and you're already building the new project.

That's a good looking trailer but those front corners with the channel turned towards the front looks like a shin killer just looking for a victim, those corners look pretty sharp too.

this looks like it's gonna be pretty cool...just like your u-haul build

Iv'e never been inside a sleeper cab...your's looks like it's just a bed but I thought Iv'e seen pics of them with microwaves, fridges, ect...how are you plannin to set yours up?


I would think one of these would be way over $600...is that in line or more of a sceamin deal?

mine has a small 'closet' but ill be building in some shelfs and such, i already pickedup a small microwave that i got in the post x-mass sales.. This one has those upper shelfs and that odd looking corner section where a TV would go..

I did get my RV door to install.. I just need to DO IT..

Price.... It really just depends.. Sometimes they really don't bring alot.. It depends on how they are stored, if they are in the way etc.. This one is in good shape inside. Ive seen them goto hell fast if left out exsposed.. This one even had some evidence of some birds atempting to setup home.. As ive explained to others, its a very limited/narrow market to sell a sleeper.. You have to 'want' one or 'need' one.. Many of the newer ones are semi integratd as mine is, where the front enguages the truck, that further limits possible reuse for people.. BUT all that makes it good for this kind of use..

For more general pics of the camper goto my web site.. camper.yager.net for now im just dumping pics out there...

A pic of my door.. and a few more reference pics of the inside.

BTW: I sold the heater/ac unit on ebay for $50 +$20 for the control panel :) I plan to put an AC unit there and duct it out the bottom..

When I was still truckin' I put a shower in my sleeper.

Used a large laundry sink thru the bottom, and rigged the bunk to fold up out of the way.Put the shower curtain on a conduit rectangle.

Just fold up the bunk, step into the sink, raise the shower curtain, hook it to the roof, hose off and presto!
clean again, ready for another day.

My sleeper was a flat top, so I had to recess the sink thru the floor about 3/4 inch above the driveshaft.

You could use a small propane powered water heater form a camper. I just dropped the sleeper heater core in a 10 gallon water tank.

I can fully understand you wanting a shower for your truckn days.. We typically stay at places that have a shower house or at a minimum a water faucet for a quick rinse..

I've pondered later on I may put a utility sink off the back side and an RV outdoor shower thing with a future water heater setup..

My goal for this year is to actually make more trips and not focus on the upgrades until later..

Update: Been making good progress on the sleeper camper project, just haven't been posting updates :)

I got some drop leg jacks from HF ~$25 each, they aren't top quality but work great for this.. I made the reciever plates and welded them to the bottom of the sleeper frame... The original plan was to jack/lift the sleeper up over the wheels and back under it.. I had the jack stand offs suck that it would clear.. But the whole setup was shaky at best and I wasn't happy with it.. After some thinking it occurred to me that I don't have a straight enough section of driveway to backup and do that operation anyway.. SO I had the bright idea to just front load the camper.. I had Ken Carter and John Herr over to help with the operation and we trimmed down the jack stick-outs by 10" and re-drilled the pin holes.. This greatly improved the stability of the sleeper on the jacks and will be my permanent setup.

We jacked the sleeper and removed the dolly. With the front trailer drop leg all the way up the equalizer was kicked all the way + the spare on the back end.. it really offset the tongue weight by balancing the trailer on the front axle. So we only had to raise the sleep 24" to clear trailer front jack. John literally pushed the trailer under the sleeper with minimal effort.. Not as difficult or exciting as I was expecting.. I cut some rubber boat roller into pucks and we set the sleeper down on the front... Perfect !!

I started on boxing the front in. I got the plywood cut and door opening trimmed. I've got 2 coats epoxy on it now, and waiting on some fiberglass mat to finish it up.. I've also got the top arc cut and glassed, i need to finish the glassing and attach it. The soffit piece will be fit later.. I plan to add some lights up under there..

More later

few more

Sweet!

Subscribed. Keep the updates comming.

Glad we could help again..

Can't wait till May so we can see it on the road.. ready to go..
that is gonna be a fun road trip with all of us and our camper setups :)

made up the mounts to hold the camper to the trailer.. some 1/4" plate along with 1/2" bolts and rubber bushings should keep it on there..

ken, get your gun out, Ill be ready to paint it in a few weeks !!

I will definitely be making a URE test run to see how it all does..

What are the outside dimensions of that sleeper? I really like that idea, but Im not sure it will fit on my trailer, and still allow me to pull the jeep up behind it.
Looks killer dude!
Scott

You aren't planning on using the Optima as your inverter battery, are you? I understand the benefits of an Optima (I sell batteries for a living), but I think you'll be quickly disappointed unless your electrical needs are really really light. The name of the game is amp hour capacity. An Optima like yours might be rated at 55 AH. A pair of GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries will start at 190 and work their way on up. They will also last a lot longer. Again, it all depends on what your actual electrical needs are, but a small 800 watt microwave is going to draw 66 amps on the 12 volt side...couple that with inverter losses and you're looking at 70 amps on the 12 volt side. Even if it isn't for a long period of time a draw like that is going to bring a battery down in a hurry. 10 amps for 20 hours is 200 amp hours. So is 20 amps for 10 hours, but it will draw a battery down lower to run the higher load for a shorter period of time. It's just a property of the darned things.

update - got the 'front' plywood glassed, then a coat of epoxy putty laid on last night..

Dimensions - Outside is 90" wide x 64" deep/long and 7' tall. FYI: sleepers are labled by their depth.. mine is a 64" but some call it a 60" per the inside dimension.. My trailer is 83" wide deck, the camper hangs over 3.5" each side.. The wheels are still wider than the camper..

Batts - Thanks for the in depth explanation of how batteries work, im sure some others will bennifit from it. I just tossed the optima (65ah rating )in there to run the 3 interior lights, its been running them for 6 weeks now. But, I have 2 - 88AH large IT/telcom bats ill be building a tray for under the trailer.. I have a 55amp IOTA converter/charger that will be minding them and suppling 12v when ive got 120v..

I have put much thought into how much 'stuff' i want to add to the camper. And basically I figure l'll have 2 mode of operation for the camper.

120v mode - Either electircal hook up site or small generator running to run stuff AC, microwave, etc.

12v - 3 interior lights and a few small ~.3amp fans running.. Laptop to play DVD etc.. Ill have a small/ med. sized inverter to run some small convience type appliances, coffee maker etc.. the 12v versions seem to be $$ and low quality.. vs a cheep 120v.. but otherwise no larger appliances.

long aside...... Honestly I'm not even sure im gonna stick an small fridge in there. From the RV/u-haul project I learned that it took 2+hrs to really cool down and then the ice compartment leaked all over during the ride home :) so I think the good old 5day cooler will get the job done just fine.. I'll make a few small racks inside to keep stuff organized and out of the water..

It sounds like you really have the electrical figured out. :D I think it's just a programmed response when I see that stuff. "I bought this $160 Optima battery and you guys told me it was one of the best out there, but it won't run my trolling motor for shit," says the guy with the 34/78 dual terminal red top.

Telecom batteries RAWK. Did you find them used or do you actually know a supplier? Those batteries will probably outlast the rig. Ditto for the Iota.

This rig is a cool idea and I'm enjoying watching the progress. There is no going back to nylon after spending a night in a steel (ok....fiberglass) tent.

nothing to add other than to say this thread is pretty damn cool...I loved the uhaul thread, but this one rocks to

Quick update.. ive got the front 'arch' attached (epoxied) and glued around the outside edge. Looks very nice. Guess i didnt get any pics of it ??

The front section is almost done, already glassed and covered with a few layers of filler (epoxy with white fluff stuff) did one last skim coat tonight. That should do it..

Last night i pulled the bed frame/stoage compartment out to make room for the new stuff..

AND I messed around with Google Sketch up to make graphic, combining all my pencil sketches and doodles onto something tangible, I can plan out the construction process better..

Basically ill be using a full size futon mattress. It will give more room to sleep. When down only one small part, will slide under the cabinet to make better use of space.. When up in the couch position, there will be more space than with the twin mattress. Plus it will be more comfortable sitting etc..

Anyway...

quick update, 1 last coat of epoxy on the front, finally a pic of the top arch. (I also slapped on last coat on the arch as well)

I need to make the top flat piece to close it all off. Get it painted. Then re assemble and caulk it in.. It fits nicely I had the wife help me bow the center out and slip it into the curve edges on the sides then simply slid it up..

While I've had the interior partially off to do the front, I noticed a small leak in the window. Anyone know the correct way to deal with this ? Can the gasket be replaced? It appears to be a generic double ][ slot gasket that has 1 seem at the bottom center.. I plan to slap some caulk on for now, but would like to address it better down the road..

you can get some "flowable" permatex clear silicone at most parts stores. I have to use it on gasketed windshields and such from time to time. It is thinner consistency and flows into the gasket better to seal it up.


Andy

thanks for the tip on the flowable stuff...

Some more progress, camper bolted to the trailer, top eve piece cut/fit/epoxied and ready to go, today i glued some wood blocked so screws have somthing to hold the eve to. Door in temporarily so i can drag the camper to be painted..

oh ya the mini deck, looks good...

And got the WD hitch installed.

Headed to Rausch creek for the B4w memorrial day. Might be ready :)

The mini deck needs a mini white picket fence. :bert:

any recent updates on this?? Thinking of doing something along the lines as this.

I might have missed this, but where did you get that RV door and around how much was it?

I had it painted by a local place. The paint color was OFF OFF OFF, but i have no way to paint stuff nor the knowledge to do it properly. It don't look to bad from 10' and its better than it was before, so it will be good enough for now.

Door - I got it off ebay, it was sold as a 'fun door' they use this size on small tear drop type campers. I got it for ~$140 (IIRC) plus shipping of $130ish (basically came in a wodden box)

oh ya the pic.. :)

it was sold as a 'fun door' they use this size on small tear drop type campers

I am building an off-road teardrop. Nice job on the sleeper, and thanks.

Mike, The 2.0 has turned out well. :smokin:

That has turned out really cool, sweet project!

I am building an off-road teardrop. Nice job on the sleeper, and thanks.

pics or buildup on this?

since you had to redo the front, any reason you didn't build it out to add some sort of aerodynamic efficiency rather than leaving a giant flat wall

yes I had considered that :)

Improving aero dynamics was an initial consideration but (scroll up to top) you will notice the door opening, is only ~10" wider than the current door opening. And by the time you try to stay on/over the tongue / \ shape it really didn't create much extra room inside, but greatly complicats the construction and sealing up of the front. Also since I change project like my underwear I had considered RESALE :) and/or ability to switch trailers. With some slight mods to the trailer this could potentially fit on a goose neck.

All that said, I DO plan to add experimenting with some add on aerodynamic devices (aka plywood) either on the front of the trailer or on my truck bed, to help deflect air up over.

Basied on my aerodynamic research from owning the Uhaul toter project. I did learn a few things. Reduced frontal area is all great but you really need to look at how the air is returned to its flow path (rear edges) AND even making a pinted V nose on the front would have marginal overall impact to the total frontal area of the tow rig and trailer..

The wing im considering would help push air fron 1/2 way up the door to the tapered roof part..

AND after all that is considered and time/money spent etc.. Fact is reducing speed to 60ish IS the biggest/best thing you can do to improve fuel efficiency.

Update and some more progress on camper and trailer.
I welded on 2 short 5k wobble jacks on the rear sides of the trailer, so I don't lift the ass of the truck up when loading/unloading..

I loaded the jeep on the trailer for the first time. I needed to do some tongue weight measurements so I could determine where to park. I decided to buy a sureline tongue weight scale and man that thing makes life so easy... A few adjustments and I had my TW set where I wanted it. At 800# I have ~15" to the bumper and 20" to the tires. Its a little tighter than I wanted but I also don't have anything in the camper. No bats, interior wood, futon mattress etc.. so that will allow me to back up more as I load it down..

It looks good sitting behind the camper. I welded on the front d-rings where I wanted them, and made a small rail to stop the jeep from hitting the camper. The rail can be adjusted and removed.

I had picked up 2 bed top tool boxes a while back and had wanted to put them on the trailer under the jeep. I knew the tires would clear but wasn't sure about opening them.. To my surprise they actually fit good and I can even open the lids all the way while under the jeep..

With the rear jacks I was even able to unload the jeep without being hooked up to the truck.. Not that its a big deal but just gives me more options if I need it.. I've always been nervouse leaving my jeep on the trailer without it hooked to somthing, now it won't be a big deal.

I also have additional mounts to put on the front to act as stabilizers for the camper.

A few pics...

great idea on those tool boxes..

looks awesome

another nice build!

subscribed!

another nice build!

X2. Some great ideas on this build Yeager! There is going to be a run on sleeper cabs:smokin:

Hey, I just noticed... is that a new rig?? The '46 gone?

Scott

No, that's my '46, It's had a few parts replaced over the years..

No, that's my '46, It's had a few parts replaced over the years..

a FEW

hahahahah ROFLMAO

If anyone else needs one of the doors, I bought one at a rv surplus place for $75 new. I would be glad to provide info to anyone who needs it.

You should copyright your threads because you have some great ideas. Have you thought about mounting a small window AC unit in the back somewhere? With AC I might be able to get my wife to sleep in something like that.

That thing came out great... when you change your mind and decide to sell it in a couple months PM me. :D

I post up because I like to share what I'm working on. I usually never come out ahead on most of my projects as most involve exstensive trial and error (aka $$$) and most tasks have step learning curves. BUT I like being different and enjoy the hard work (usually). I'm used to people copying what I do. Hell I've even seen pics of my work/ideas with others names on it to take credit.. I try to give credit to others unique ideas where/when I can as I am never at a loss for ways to add my own ideas and touch to any project. Ex.. Snookywheels and his U-haul idea :)

Yes window AC is definilty in the works, true my wife will be happy but so will I :) At this time I'm still making the last minute decisions on the inside layout as I only get one shot at making the hole and keeping it looking nice.. Lots of cool ideas instore to make good use of the inside space...

In fact Ken Carter, had stopped over Sat. and we were mulling over some layout ideas and I have been thinking up how to best make my small microwave be accessable from inside yet easily moved/reached from the large hatch door... I was thinking slideing or pivoting shelf or similer ideas... And Ken was like, can't you mount a shelf directly to the door ??? I'm like..... ummmm I think that will work :) With some measurments we confirmed that with a carfully sized and positioned shelf the microwave can be used both inside and out.... thanks Ken !! :beer:

or you could use a pullout, swivel or articulating tv mount (for hanging a tv on a wall) then you can move it out of the way to get in and out..

great build...I love the way its turning out

did you happen to weigh the tounge without the jeep on it? I'm just wondering if you had to pull a little ways with just the sleeper how bad it would be, tounge weight wise?

shelf - the shelf would be on the upper side door NOT the front entrance door. The side door is more of an emergency exit door (says so on the sticker ;) ) Ill add some screening for air flow when were not running A/C and the idea was that opening the side door with the microwave would make it usable both inside and out without needing to move it around....

Tongue weight - The empty trailer has ~250# TW * which is just under 10% I was a little unhappy about that when I got the trailer but they claim they built it per their math forumla. As it sits now with NO jeep on it = ~800 (let me double check my scratch paper when I get home) I also have NOT added much else inside, like Batterys AC, bed etc.. That will add to it..

I have towed it with JUST the camper using my WD hitch and it towed as good. The trailer is still new and with the 6k axles (and leafs) the trailer was a bit bouncy but it handled very well with the hitch + dual cam sway control. I also need to put some miles on the trailer to work the suspension in a little everything is still very tight.

* Currently my ramps are 90# EACH (yes I weighed them) If I remove them my empty TW is ideal (IMHO). While I like them and they could easily load a bobcat etc.. They are way overkill for my jeep. I plan to make a smaller (lighter) set of ramps that will used for just the jeep stuff..

Thanks for the pics and ideas!