: semi floating GM 10.5"?
GRMhick 05-11-2002, 01:11 PM Ok, i wanna ask if anyone know of any problems running a semi floating 10.5" GM axle (normally a full floating). My buddy blew up his 10 bolt, and this looks like the best option, since he can still keep the wheels. ANyone know what type of driveshaft mods need to be done? And is $2000 too much. I dont think so, because it is being 100% rebuilt, with new gears, detroit locker, breaks, shafts, etc. ready to bolt into his GMC.
thanks for the help.
Garrett
Triaged 05-11-2002, 04:31 PM I don't see a reason to buy a 14FF that has been converted to SF when you could just buy a 14SF (9.5" ring gear). They even made them in 6-lug...so no custom parts are needed. What am I missing?
elf_cruiser 05-11-2002, 05:05 PM I would get a FF, they are easy to get, and stronger than the SF. And $2000 is rediculous. You can get a 14FF rebuilt with a detroit from boyce equip for around $1200 and i think they are expensive.
chris demartini 05-11-2002, 09:16 PM Get a 14FF, machine and re-drill it to 6 lug. Do a search, there was a thread a few months ago with pics.
GRMhick 05-12-2002, 04:59 AM yeah, if it were my truck, I sure would just machine it.. actually, I plan on getting a 30 spline dana 60, and re-drilling it to 5 lug for my ram (I only really want it for carrying capacity, the point it will have the gears I want already in it, and I dont need to do any driveshaft mods.. doubt 33" muds will break it). But he wants one that is ready to bolt in to his truck. No time for a axle build up. will any shops do the full float conversion to 6 lug do ya know? I dont think 2k is all that bad, but i found out today that doesent include breaks. Figuring 150 for the used 14 bolt, 400 for the detroit, 200 for new gears, 200 for the setup kit, 150 for all new seals and bearings, 50 for new spring mounts, and shock mounts, 400 for new shafts with 9" ends... plus paint.. that is about $1550 without labor, wich includes getting the axle, stripping it, building it, setting up the gears, welding on the spring and shock mounts, paint it, etc. $450 for that isnt that bad I dont think.. But are there shops that do the full floating 6 lug thing.. this axle is prob gonna be built at right gear in salinas for his GMC doing this semi floating 6 lug. And as for just doing a semi floating 9.5" 14 bolt.. i doubt it will like all the abuse he will give it.. hell, i am suprised this current 10 bolt lasted this long (about 3 years). Oh, and also when you figure that it is gonna cost him $1600 to have a shop fix his 10 bolt.. $2000 for a new 14 bolt ready to drop in, and the option to sell the broken 10 bolt (4.10 gears and detroit is still good)... it may be better than he thinks.. but what are other opinions. I think this axle is good enough to hold up to 39.5" swampers.. not much more tho. sound about right?
thanks for the help. Garrett
Triaged 05-12-2002, 07:39 PM Have you seen a 14 SF...they are beef compaired to a 10/12B. The stock carrier leaves a bit to be desired but a detroit replaces it. If you convert a 14FF to SF the only thing that will be stronger than the 9.5" 14 is the R&P (at 9.5" it is bigger than a D60). You will also have some custome parts that you can't just get from a J/Y. IMO the 14sf is the perfect axle if you plan on staying 6-lug and 36" or smaller tires. If you plan on going larger you don't want any SF axle back there (and you will also want a D60 up front). You say it should be good for 39.5" swampers. If that size tire is in his future he shouldn't be looking at keeping 6-lug anyways.
Bottom line:
If you don't think a 14SF is up to the task neither is the 10B front!
Krylon.. 05-13-2002, 08:24 AM Originally posted by Triaged
Have you seen a 14 SF...they are beef compaired to a 10/12B. The stock carrier leaves a bit to be desired but a detroit replaces it. If you convert a 14FF to SF the only thing that will be stronger than the 9.5" 14 is the R&P (at 9.5" it is bigger than a D60). You will also have some custome parts that you can't just get from a J/Y. IMO the 14sf is the perfect axle if you plan on staying 6-lug and 36" or smaller tires. If you plan on going larger you don't want any SF axle back there (and you will also want a D60 up front). You say it should be good for 39.5" swampers. If that size tire is in his future he shouldn't be looking at keeping 6-lug anyways.
Bottom line:
If you don't think a 14SF is up to the task neither is the 10B front!
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't a D60 is a 9 3/4" ring??
Triaged 05-13-2002, 06:21 PM You're right!...I don't know what I was thinking (something like 9.5 - 9.75 = 5 :confused: )
GRMhick 05-13-2002, 08:56 PM does the 14b semi floating have 1.5" shafts tho? and as for a 10 bolt, sorry man, he still has IFS... (remember 88+ is ifs) but is getting a dana 60 front soon enough, with 6 lug. and remind me again why he shouldnt be keeping 6 lug? I didnt think it made a big difference.. besides the point that he couldnt keep his mickey thompson rims, and woudl have to go to steel. Thats right, correct? Anyway.. I believ they put 9" ends on the 10." semi floating at this shop, and I thought those bearings could take the abuse, or am i wrong?
Garrett
Triaged 05-15-2002, 12:34 AM It sounds like a nice axle and all but for $2000 he would be alot closer to a D60 Front 14FF rear new wheels and solid axle conversion. It just seams like alot of $$$ for a average strength rear axle w/ no brakes. That is why I sugested the 14sf (not stronger than the 10.5" 14sf but alot cheeper and almost as strong without the need for custom parts). It would bolt right up (heck they only came on IFS trucks) and have easy to find parts (not having to have a list with you to know what year ford 9" parts you need) The shafts are not 1.5" at the spline (but they are 33 spline) but taper from the bearing (where they are around 1.5"...also where the stress from the tire load is the max) to the spline. I like to have as few custom parts as possible on my truck.
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