In preparation for swapping the LT-230, what should I be doing to it while it's got the bottom cover off and sitting on the bench?

I have replacement seals to pop in, but no other real parts like the drilled gear, etc...

Is there really *anything* to do to it before I install it? Other than the drilled gear and some seals, aren't they pretty much a 'do it all the way or don't do anything' kind of a deal?

I don't want to do a complete tear-down and re-build...don't think it needs it. Just looking for some thoughts on what I can do to it to give it that little extra lovin' that it needs.

Oh yeah, solenoid is out. Right Stuff is in...

If you arent running a crossdrilled mainshaft (I'm not) lube with splines well with grease.

Also, have you considered painting it? Its the latest in LT230 fashion!
http://www.d-90.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7694

:flipoff2:

-Jeff

No, I hadn't considered it. Now I will. :laughing:

Who's t-case is that? It's F-UGLY! :shaking:

Read the 'Pendy new websit thread' or better yet Pendy & the gorilla on the D-90 page. http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10420

-Jeff

deeper sump pan so it holds more fluid maybe?

what to do: leave it alone ... it is already "fixed" :flipoff2: :p

Hijack:

Slade do you still have an extra ARB Bumper laying arround. Im looking for a disco/RRC one to modify and put on my 100"

-Jeff

GBR sells a nice one piece cross shaft along with hardened thrust washers for the spider gears that will strengthen the center diff....but that will require a teardown. If you want to run the non-drilled input gear, consider fitting the factory update oiling plate to feed oil to the splines. They may be NLA, but I've got a few here that I've pulled out when fitting cross drilled gears. Let me know if you need one.

No extra bumpers laying around. Sorry.

Rob, nice t-case. I dunno how that thread escaped me. Very funny.

Tell me more about that oiling plate. I also am making that plate that bolts to the t-case for the bushing. The flat one that measures 4x3.75. Unless someone has one laying around.

Oh yeah, PT snuck in a t-case mount, so it's not needed. BUT, I'm missing (I THINK), the tall cast aluminum piece that goes between the linkage and the case. Anyone got a pic of the whole assy. together? I am thinking I'm missing a piece, but nothings bolting together in a 'logical' fashion.

Anyone got a pic of the whole assy. together? I am thinking I'm missing a piece, but nothings bolting together in a 'logical' fashion.

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/briggs/PC030080.JPG

Found this on some random website.

-Jeff

Michael,
The oiling plate was a factory update done in 1995ish to help abate the spine wear problem. It wasn't a recall, but a factory update. They had us pull the pto plate & inspect the splines. If there was minimal to no wear we would install the oiling plate and send the car on it's way. Spline wear meant a mainshaft & input gear. The oiling plate was very simple & effective. It sandwiched between the bearing retainer & PTO cover plate and would collect oil and feed it into the spline area. Occasionally I get an LT230 in that still has the plate installed along with an undrilled gear. I don't sell rebuilt boxes with undrilled gears, all get updated if needed. As a result, I have a small pile of these oiling plates sitting here. I also have the flat plates for the mount if you need one. Give me a call at the shop & I'll hook you up.
As far as the linkage goes, there is an aluminum housing that bolts to the top of the transmission with 3 or 4 bolts that serves as a platform to mount the t-box shifter and supports the pivot for the diff lock linkage. Occasionally I end up with one, but I don't have any at the moment. Look for a D1 or 87-88 RRC that is being parted out. I believe that you want p/n FRC8558, should you decide to buy new. The picture in the previous post is correct.

Mike:
You should have all of the shifter parts. I suspect the part you're looking for is part of the governor housing.

As for the insides of that T-case, I've had it apart and it should be in pretty good shape and good to go.

Lastly, I felt certain I'd provided you with everything but the front driveshaft. If you remember, the one you picked up from the floor of the rental truck either wasn't complete, or was worn badly.

PT

Rob, Im interested in an oiler plate. What do you want for one?

-Jeff

Jeff,
I PM'd you

It is not recommended to put grease to the mainshaft splines.
It is said that the grease hardenes and/or prevents oil to get to the splines and lubricate them.

This is a problem the BorgWarner t-cases don´t seem to suffer from; at least the one in my RRC had perfect splines on the automatic-gearbox´s shaft. Think that had sth. to do with the ATF oil that was used. I´ve heard of someone using ATF in a LT230 which had wet splines with no wear. Maybe, also, that a automatic gearbox puts less stress on the splines.
Anyway oil needs to get to the splines.

The part I *thought* I was sure I was missing actually doesn't exist. I kept looking at that linkage and trying out how and where it bolts to the t-case. Found out, through Briggs, that it actually bolts to the tranny. It's been a while since I did my last LT-230 conversion apparently.

So, now that I've greased up the input splines, I guess I ought to clean them off? Sheeshe, I wish you guys would make up your minds!

Dassler, tell me about the oiler plate too.

I just went to Lowes, bought some sheet steel to make my t-case plate. Now the only parts I'm missing are the front driveshaft and one motor mount. Argh, I don't wanna go to the dealer to get that. I guess I could see if I can re-use one from the BW?

EDIT:

The linkage actually moves side to side around the shaft, but doesn't move front to back along the length of the shaft. Merv, where are you when I need you!

Any tips for getting it to move in *all* directions?

PT - thanks for the parts. I was surprized when I found the gunked-up t-case mount. :D

Michael,
PM'd you

The wench only moves side to side around my shaft, but doesn't move front to back along the length of the shaft.

Don't you just hate that :mad3:




























:flipoff2:

Well holy crap that was a PITA. The shift linkage was siezed up so I had to completely dissasemble it and sand down the rust/corrosion, re-lube all of the o-rings and am reassembling right now.

Pesky little thing that shifter linkage is. Some of the little nylon bits on the inside can crack (mine were), and get gummed up inside there. Also the shaft moves through an end plate that has an o-ring, but is open to the elements and can corrode in place. I'm going to fill it with grease then place a tiny end-cap beyond the original piece there with some silicone to keep water/salt/crap away from the end of the shaft. I'm sure that's what was keeping the linkage from shifting fore/aft.

I would have taken pics, but my hands were covered in grease. My cameras + grease = not a happy me. :flipoff2:

I would have taken pics, but my hands were covered in grease. My cameras + grease = not a happy me. :flipoff2:

Out of rubber gloves again?

Nope, two boxes of rubber gloves. Just thinking about the grease and camera combo makes me sick.

Hey, I *thought* I had an LT-230 input shaft seal, but all I can find are hub seals...four of them!

Is there a generic part no. that I can go get for that seal? I can go to the dealer, but the pain involved might be too great.

He uses up all of the rubber gloves on "other" activities. (MERV, paging MERV)


:flipoff2:



-Jeff

So did you find me an alternative part no. for that seal? Maybe I ought to be making a seal out of all my rubber gloves!

For the record, the factory part no. for the input seal is: ICV100000

For the record, the factory part no. for the input seal is: ICV100000

For the corrected record, that number appears to be the seal manufacturer's P/N.

I would have taken pics, but my hands were covered in grease. My cameras + grease = not a happy me. :flipoff2:

Sounds like its time to invest in an underwater housing :D

Fit the 1 piece cross shaft to the centre diff as mentioned above.

Also do the mod to improve the oil feed to the low/high gears. This was detailed on Dave Ashcroft's site as part of the installation instructions for the crawler gears.

As the crawler gears are no longer available, I can no longer find these instructions on his web site. I hope Dave does not mind if I give the instructions here.

Strip the case.

Where the rear output housing bolts to the case:

Enlarge the 8.5mm oil feed hole (located in the main case at the 12 o'clock position) by drilling 12mm diameter, upwards at approx 45 deg angle. This gives a better feed into the rear output housing.

Tap and plug the bottom 6.5mm oil drain hole (located in the main case at the 6 o'clock position).

With the drain plugged, the output shaft must be modified to provide a gap so the oil fed into the rear output housing can return between the output shaft and the hollow outer shaft (which the high and low range gear are fitted to).

Machine the flange on the output shaft, to 42mm diam outside by 3.5mm wide. Note do not alter the shoulder for the speedo worm gear - the gap is wanted on the other side of the flange, between the outer shaft for the high range gear.

Dave also recommends machining the outside of the flange of the bush/sleeve, which fits inside the high range gear, to 62.5mm diam, to improve the oil flow.

mike

did you ever get a frame mount? i have one out in the garage and some boxes, so i could have it out monday, sorry make that tuesday.

mike

did you ever get a frame mount? i have one out in the garage and some boxes, so i could have it out monday, sorry make that tuesday.

There was one in the long-awaited box of parts I sent him.

Also, have you considered painting it? Its the latest in LT230 fashion!

If you go to that much trouble for a prank, what do you do for the people who piss you off?:D

If you go to that much trouble for a prank, what do you do for the people who piss you off?:D

Jeff loves everybody!

I spoke with George @ RDS yesterday...he has repainted the "Toys-R-Us" t-box I sent him. It was a good laugh, though. I painted the box before I assembled it...I spent more time buying the paint than I did actually painting it. The people that piss me off get all pink ones...and billed for the paint!

I spoke with George @ RDS yesterday...he has repainted the "Toys-R-Us" t-box I sent him.

Proof he has no sense of humor.

When I did the headjob on Discochef's truck, I painted the upper plenum pink. I understand AFIRover has now painted most of the rest of the engine compartment as well.

I spoke with George @ RDS yesterday...he has repainted the "Toys-R-Us" t-box I sent him. It was a good laugh, though. I painted the box before I assembled it...I spent more time buying the paint than I did actually painting it. The people that piss me off get all pink ones...and billed for the paint!

Rob,

Got the goodie-box. Sorry I haven't called...are you in tomorrow?

Rob,

Got the goodie-box. Sorry I haven't called...are you in tomorrow?

Good to hear the box showed up. I'll be in tomorrow afternoon....my step-daughters boyfriends jeep grenaded the rearend in the snow, so we'll be stripping it down tomorrow. I've no idea how he broke it with 29" tires and a 4 cyl...but it was rather amusing seeing it in the middle of the street with the drivers side rear tire sticking about 12" past the bodywork.:shaking:

Rob,

Got the goodie-box.

Does everybody send you boxes of goodies?

Hopefully, there was less angst involved in his box, the one I sent you was cursed on many levels.

I am in process with my LT230 swap and have run into a problem: The case has slide onto the trans splines all the way up to 1/4 inch from being flush, face to face. Now that it is that close it has stopped and will not go on any further. Has anyone ever experienced this,Having the wrong shaft is the usual cause for this problem, however, occasionally someone will assemble the transfer case with the input gear in backwards causing similar problems.

apostille (http://www.apostille.us)

Yes, you are trying to put a 2in onto a 3in or vice versa. How long are the splines on your output from the trans?

WHat the Evil one is tryin to say is that some Spud shafts have longer splnes than others. Sounds like you have a short spline spud and you need a long spline stub..

He's probably been drinking as have I so you shouldn't listen to either of us...

Sounds like its time to invest in an underwater housing :D

water proof is not necessarily oil proof!

I am in process with my LT230 swap and have run into a problem: The case has slide onto the trans splines all the way up to 1/4 inch from being flush, face to face. Now that it is that close it has stopped and will not go on any further. Has anyone ever experienced this,Having the wrong shaft is the usual cause for this problem, however, occasionally someone will assemble the transfer case with the input gear in backwards causing similar problems.

apostille (http://www.apostille.us)
If you are using the late, cross drilled input gear with a ZF auto, you will need the spud shaft with longer splines that others have suggested.

But it sounds to me that you have a dowel pin in the t/case at the same location as a dowel pin in the box/transmission. When LT230's are split from a box/transmission, sometimes the dowel pins will stay with the LT230, and some stay with the box/transmission.

But it sounds to me that you have a dowel pin in the t/case at the same location as a dowel pin in the box/transmission. When LT230's are split from a box/transmission, sometimes the dowel pins will stay with the LT230, and some stay with the box/transmission.

Engines and trannys do the same thing, trust me, I know!:flipoff2: