Gimme the best option for the front driveshaft for an LT-230 converted truck.

Tom Woods

Tom Woods

IOW...GBR

IOW...GBR

I did not know.

So if Tom makes em, why not buy one from him?

DII rebuilt / balanced with greasable u-joints. no need to replace the cardan joint itself.

We ran a DII front shaft on our Buggy..It exploded on the third day. We replaced it with Tom Woods like we were runnin on the rear and have beat the crap out of it with no problems since.

DII rebuilt / balanced with greasable u-joints. no need to replace the cardan joint itself.

Yeah, that's what I meant to put in the poll, forgot and called the UJ's CV's. I never said I was smart. :flipoff2:

have the lt 230 flange machined to take a toyota cv. the toy cv can be modified to have roughly 40* of misalignment and it is as strong as the spicer 1350. the problem is that i don't know what the lr bolt circle dia and indexing are. i plan on building two double cardan shafts with my spare toy cvs myself. so i would love those dimensions:flipoff2:
i can do it now too as my dads 30 year old jet 10x24 just showed up in my garage over xmas.

Toyota...

Use a Land-Rover double cardan CV output flange... DII... Common dealer stock item apparently...

i'll build you a dII shaft and paint it purple for $500? Let me know.

Purple is cool..
I make a replacment flange that eliminates the "spacer/adaptor" when you put a 1310 CV shaft on... Then you go to your plain old driveshaft shop and have a CV shaft made for reasonable $$$$ I currently have a pile of said flanges machined I just need to get the broaching done. Depending on the broaching cost they are about $150 for the flange.

I have a Tom Woods shaft sitting in my basement studio left over from a shoot I did for JKS. It'll fit the S1 in the front, but it's about 12 inches too short for the LWB.

:(

Well Tom Woods does not make GBR, Six States does. Plus it will take a while to get a GBR. Tom uses an AL adapter plate which is no good, come to think of it adapter plates suck. I recommend using my guy, AZ Driveline in Phoenix (800-845-6326). He'll make you a DC shaft with 1310 u-joints that has a custom flange letting it bolt to the LT-230 with no adapter. All for $300 and less than 3 days build time. Im very happy with his work on my truck.

Purple is cool..
I make a replacment flange that eliminates the "spacer/adaptor" when you put a 1310 CV shaft on... Then you go to your plain old driveshaft shop and have a CV shaft made for reasonable $$$$ I currently have a pile of said flanges machined I just need to get the broaching done. Depending on the broaching cost they are about $150 for the flange.

That's a cool part...

If you ever want to do a Toyota pattern variation on these, I would be in for two, maybe more. The Toy CVs use a very small center indexing hole, so you have to add material in order to have the CV center itself on the flange. Right now I'm using the bolt pattern to center, not great, I hope it won't vibrate too badly.

What exactly do you need a front driveling for??? I see Chevy's on 38"s all the time without a front Driveshaft. Besides you have a winch!

As usual nothing helpfull to add, just bustin your chops

-Jeff

Jeff brings the funnay :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Yeah, that's what I meant to put in the poll, forgot and called the UJ's CV's. I never said I was smart. :flipoff2:

opps - change my vote to upgraded CV then :flipoff2:

i ran a stocker with about 4" of lift in the front. as long as the u-joints are happy the joint itself seems happy, and I haven't heard of one that's been twisted / bent very easily. they actually tuck up out of the way pretty well, considering.

I should note - the GBR front shafts are much larger in diameter. Part of the reason I went stock DII is because I had generic CATCO catlytic converters which are bigger than stock. Even then I had to tweak the heat shield a little bit to get the skinny DII one to not interfere under articulation.

thought this was worthin mentioning ... fwiw

Well Tom Woods does not make GBR, Six States does.

I knew it was one way or the other.

I'll give your guy a call and see what he says.

I should note - the GBR front shafts are much larger in diameter. Part of the reason I went stock DII is because I had generic CATCO catlytic converters which are bigger than stock. Even then I had to tweak the heat shield a little bit to get the skinny DII one to not interfere under articulation.


Good to know. I have generics in there as well...two flat ones. Maybe CATCO's...dunno.

I think someone here locally had a DII shaft. I guess you can take one of those to the driveline shop and have them rebuilt with greasable UJ's? I am going to have the rear driveline rebuilt too.

I have a Tom Woods shaft sitting in my basement studio left over from a shoot I did for JKS. It'll fit the S1 in the front, but it's about 12 inches too short for the LWB.

:(

Mike,
why don't you just take that to a driveline shop?
For under 100$ they will replace the tube with one of the correct length and balance it.

Mike,
why don't you just take that to a driveline shop?
For under 100$ they will replace the tube with one of the correct length and balance it.

'Technically' it's not my property. I could appropriate it I suppose, but it's not in my nature.

I'll see if JKS wants to give me the 'deal'.

Good to know. I have generics in there as well...two flat ones. Maybe CATCO's...dunno.

I think someone here locally had a DII shaft. I guess you can take one of those to the driveline shop and have them rebuilt with greasable UJ's? I am going to have the rear driveline rebuilt too.


yes, any competent driveline shop can rebuild / service the DII shaft. A friend of mine had his done locally ('99 DII) for about $150 and has held up for many years of wheeling and DD duty.