Well I have been lurking around this site for a while and thought it was about time I post my build. Before anyone goes to far this is going to be kind of slow:( . I work 80 hours a week, have a five month old and just moved to a new city.
Here is what I started with:
1976 cj-7 that has 8 years of hard trail wear on it
2002 6.0l crate motor installed winter of 2004
87+ 700R4 (broken case courtesy of Katmcy,tx)
3.8 atlasII w/HD front and rear outputs
hp 60 front with 5.13's,arb,and custom yukon chromoly shafts(35 spline)
Spring over leaves in front(rubicon express 1.5)
hp 60 rear semi floater 5.13's,arb,and 35 spline
Triangulated four link w/ 2in TJ rear coils
39.5 grooved tsl on champion bead locks
six point (NOT tied to the frame:barf: )
100 in wheel base
25inch beely clearance
80 in outside of tires
This is what it looked like:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dd38b3127cce9782514388eb00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Green acres Clayton OK

The reasons for this build are simple,after my memorial day run to Katmcy,Tx it could no longer move under it's own power:mad3: .The second reason is eight+ years of abuse have left the body in pretty bad shape.
The goals for this build are not as simple.
First is to design,machine and install a Full floater kit on my rear 60. I am doing this for a couple of reasons. First is that i have no spare axles shafts and the ones that I do have are old and not chromoly. second the wms is only 56in and I already run 1.5 spacers to get it to 59. THe third is the one that pushed me to do this project, the rear disk brakes. The calipers or off of a ford and keep going out, I am on my fourth caliper in four trips. So by doing this F.F. I will gain strengh,extra axles(I will Build two sets),width and matching brakes to the front.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb612fc1d6400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Second is to fix the transmission and improve the crossmember/skid plate so I don't break the case again.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae2a4f45d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Third is to clean up some of the body that has been beat to s#$t. I plan on doing boat sides to clean up the rockers that are now arched. I am debating on if I will dovetail the back or not. I have a goal to be done by Feb 07 so if time and money allow I will do it.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae0d0751800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Forth and last goal is going to affect the jeep more than any other. It sits at just over 25 inchs to the frame right now and i would like to lower it to at least 23 or maybe even 21 as plans for part two of this build are already under way.
I get bored easly and skip from one project to another so this will not be in order. I am on a tight budget so most of my money will be spend on materials and tools.

awesome... now get to work slacker :flipoff2:

The first thing I had to do was assess how bad the damage was.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae2a4f45d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae345351400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
The transmission case is toast and maybe some the the internals. The trans shop will check out the inside when i get the cash to have it fixed. Probablly the last thing i will do. Once I had the transsmission out i wanted to adress the motor to make sure it had not hurt the crank when the tras. went floping around behind it. The radiator had been hit by the fan and had what I thought was a small leak, this was not the case. The middle eight or so tubes where busted out right at the tank. NO way to fix. I also found that the flex plate had been severelybent. A trip to the local chevy dealer ship netted me a new one just with out the torqure converter bolts. A trip to the shop and some mill time later I had a new flex plate.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afc69f49f00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Bolted it to the motor and it fired up with no noticeable side effect of the crash. I was not albe to run it for long since the radiator spit out more water that it put in. Since I do not have the cash for a new one yet or a bender I am going to start on the boat sides next. Fisrt to go are the rock sliders that had seen thier better days three years ago.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae0cbf43300000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae0b8757000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Old rock sliders
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae72ab44900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae7e0b48300000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Whats left of the rockers.
The pictures suck but the damage is real! the doors don't close real well and are not even close to sealing in the back beause the door opeing is arched.
I cut straight first mainly because I was not sure how to best match the cut on the floor to the angle of what the new side are going to be.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afae6f41300000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I am leaving one inch under the door to help tie the tube back into the frame and add some strengh back into it. This is what i cut off of both sides.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0af90fb46300000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

NOw there was no turning back i had to holes in the sides of the jeep:barf: .http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0af9a035fc00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afa9cf46900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I was going to put in a hoop but instead decided to go with five seperate bars one cross and four "kickers"
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afc98755e00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I set the cross bar in so that it is almost flush with the out side of the tube. This was easier said than done becuase of how bent the rockers ende up being. See Below
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afd44351a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Here is the drivers with all of the tubing in.:grinpimp:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda2f9e46b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
All that is left now is to cut the floor to match the angle.:D

nice, i just got my drivers side boatsides done. after cutting it off, it was scary looking. but now that i have it tubed up, it looks amazing. good luck, i assume you will be running tube down the side and plating off that? keep the pics comming.

Cutting the floor turned into an easy task! All i did was run a flat piece of metal along the angled bars as if i where covering the rockers and cut anywhere it touched the floor or the tub. this is what i ended up with.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda2e4654600000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda141257a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I am happy with the way they are coming out and can't wait to see the finished product. My only concerns are that the back two body mounts will not fit under the plate i am going to cover the side with,:shaking: only time will tell. The ends of the cross bars will get capped off later in this project. I am not sure what i am going to use to sheet the side with yet. I have three differnet plans in my head. The first is to fit three seperate pieces of 1/8 plate flush with the outside of the sliders with dimpled holes to give it strenght and then cover all of it with 1/4UHMW. The seoncd is to go on the outside of the sliders with one 1/8 plate front to back again with dimple died hole to add strengh and cover that with UHMW. Thrid is to just cover the sliders front to back with 1/4 alum. What do you guys think?

You might want to use more reinforcement on the tube to frame rail mount?...IMO
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/kflat1.jpg

Since either of my first two plans require me to have a press and dimple dies I am turning my attention back to fixing the damaged and not working parts on the jeep. I decided that I was not going to spend the money on a jeep to chevy conversion radiator. Rather I would skin a stock jeep grille and mount a factory chevy radiator on a hoop. This gave me a cheaper and bigger radiator to help keep the motor cool On the hot west texas trails that i have been running. NO more worring about if it's going to over heat:grinpimp: .I called up the Radiator barn and bought a 67-69 factory camaro three core radiator that will fit behind a skinned cj grille.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda22be4b900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
This should have no problem kepping the motor happy and cool since it was built to cool a v-8. It is a good deal bigger than what i had before and at only $160 it's right up my alley.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda20c65ae00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I had an old grille lying around and went to cutting. I used the lip in the front as a guide and cut everything behind it off.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb610f71d6e00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Off to the shavings pile at work with this.:laughing: This is what it looks like with out all the fat.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb610431dda00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Now I am planning on lowering the front of the jeep by removing one of the leeves out of each front spring pack and moving the shackle mount up into the frame. so for now i am going to do that before i start bending tube to hold the radiator

Hey could I get some pics of your rear suspention that looks like what I want to do with my YJ, also are you using the front Leaf spring mount for your ancor point? thanks and sorry for jacking your thread..


nicknavoni@comcast.net

I called up the Radiator barn and bought a 67-69 factory camaro three core radiator that will fit behind a skinned cj grille.
That radiator has problems with tube separation at the upper and lower tank when subjected to flex/articulation...IMO

I order to move the shackle up the old bumper can not stay:mad3: . It covers the sides of the frame in the front right where the shackles are going to be. Also I am planning on removing the 1 inch body lift in order to lower my center of gavity(even if it's only in the seat of my pants:flipoff2: ). With the body lift and the bumper removed it is time to bend some tube for the radiator and a new front bumper:D :grinpimp: .
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb6497adc6700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d09b3dffb00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
The first part of the bumper. its slid into the frame and help mount the shackles and the winch. Next i bent a stinger that will also slide into the frame a help mount the shackles. I went with a stinger in order to help if/when i role the jeep. I can't keep replacing the same pieces.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90dc7f349400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
After i got some practice with the bender(scrapped one jount on the stinger where it turns into the frame) I bent and notched the radiator hoop.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90dd34f57700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90ddf1748200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

With the tubing bent i turned my attenion to mounting the radiator and grille skin and tying it all together so it doesn't just flop off if i lean on it. I also decided to remove the fiberglass hood that has no business on the front of my jeep with the way i drive:p .
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d2c6342a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I'm pretty happy with how it's coming together for my first time using the bender.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d067348a00000035113AYuGbhu4Yo
Grille mounted
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d05734ba00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d01d34f000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Radiator mounted minus some rubber isolaters. I cut to 1.5 hole in the grille to tie the stinger and radiator hoop together.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d69e347000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
On a stroke of luck I found that I can use the scrapped stinger two tie the two bars together:grinpimp: .
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc32b3127cce8f90d71bf55d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

As anyone can tell my build thread and the pictures are not always the way the I am writing this. Word to the wise if you think that you want to ppost a build thread do it from the start:flipoff2: . On to the shackle relocation.
since their was already a hole where i needed to cut the new hole for the shackle mount in decided to weld the plate from the inside to the outside and cut both holes at once.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807df8c21e5a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807df971df4100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807df3215e2400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Once this was done all i had to do was grind off the plate,move it to the inside,weld it in and slide the new bushing mount in place.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807df55bdf6d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807df53ddf0b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0a9e9f4f00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

Thats the thing about builds, you can always improve, don't count on ever saying the words "It's finished"

After the first test fit i pulled the bushing sleeve out so i could fit the bumper tubes and cut the circle in them for the bushing sleeve.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0ee69f3500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0f08df4300000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0c601e8200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Once this was all done all that was left was to reinstall the bushing sleeve and weld it all up.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0364df2900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Finished and installed.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d00bf9f6b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

With it back on it's own four feet i thought i would button up some of the Little things in the front that take soooo much time. The list inculded remounting the winch, which meant remounting the power steering cooler, mounting the radiator over flow bottle and hooking up all the hoses to each.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d01f65e8a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I had to cut the factory cross member in order to mount the winch lower and to the new bumper.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d0714df5b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Part of the new/old winch mount.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d1e051eee00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Front end with springs hung,winch mounted and painted since it rust in a matter of hours in this part of the country.:eek:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d1a011ee800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Radiator over flow bottle mounted.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d1b2b5e5a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d18659fbd00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Power steering mounted and out of the way.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d18c99f1100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Upper radiator hose cross over tube and hoses installed.

Might want to sleeve those rocker tubes with a smaller OD tube inside. I used .134 wall tube and still dented them in. I tore it all off earlier this year and plated the sides and bottom with one big sheet of 1/4 thats gusseted to the frame on the inside.



http://midwestjeepthing.com/jeep/member/images/Bushwhacker/left%20rear%20cage.jpg

http://206.196.31.97/images/upload/member_vehicles/Bushwhacker_vehicle(50).jpg

With the front end mostly finished I was able to tell the neighbors that I had moved to the neighborhood by starting the heep for the first time with no muffler:flipoff2: . I was relieved to find it started and ran with no problems even if it could not go anywhere:shaking: . Minus a good coat of paint and cleaning the hoses and such up the front is almost done. All i have left to do in this part of the build is finish the winch mount. So i thought I would do a little more work on the boat sides. First thing i did was buy a press so i could dimple die the side plates.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807e221d7e3c00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Now that the end of the year is near it's easier to get some free time on the machines at work so i made a set of dimple dies and the pieces to tie my boatside back into the tub.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807e22fcffed00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I still haven't decided how i am going to sheet my boat side so i haven't use the dies or the press yet but it's nice to know that i can:cool2: . I had to see how the tie in looked so on they went.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d129d1e7000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d12651e8800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cc06b3127cce807d12311edc00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Every other hole is going to be left open to show some of the green:grinpimp: . That fawking John Dreere paint is to pretty to cover up. The other holes are counter sunk for 1/4 bolts. Next up I will start on the Full Floater conversion for the rear end. I need some input on what to cover the boatsides with. WHAT YA'LL TINK?

OK this will be the last progress update until after the new year as i won't be able to get out in the garage/shop for a while. The rear F.F. is almost done. the spindles and hubs are made as well as the axles. The hubs and spindles are made out of 4340 and the axles are yukon chromoly blanks that I machined to fit my application. I have lots of pictures so heres just a few.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad0ea753a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Rough stock getting cut
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad170353800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad19435dc00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
First lathe step on the spindles
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad63cf4df00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad60ef4ed00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Test fitting a stock 14 bolt hub on the new spindles.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad6a9757a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
First side on all three spindles is done.

Plate between the tubes with 3/16 or 1/4" and leave an access hole to the body bolts.

Spidle complete!
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad75cb42700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad7b735fc00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
The spindles are machined to use stock chevy dana 60 spindle nuts so that I only have to carry one socket.:smokin: I do plan on having enough fun to break this stuff.:evil:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad47275a000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad42075f200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Test fitting the spindle. It is a tight fit i had to put it in the freezer to shink it and still beat it in. I did this to help it hold up to the stress on this joint. If i see it wanting to seperate i will weld it on after i'm sure it all works. fine.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aea52f4af00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Getting started on the hub.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aeaa5756800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
First lathe operation next to a 14 bolt hub.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aea90f46d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aeba735f200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
lathe work on the hubs.:smokin:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae8f1f40d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Hub complete next to a 14 bolt hub.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae8c0750c00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aecd2751c00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Mill work complete on the hubs.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aed87b4e100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Hubs complete!
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae2cb750200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
My box of goodies that i keep all this chit in at work. I love my job on days like this.

All I have left is to spline the axles, machine the caliper brackets, buy and drill the rotor to match the front. Heres some picture of the axles being splined and what the finished produstl look like installed.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ae9bfb4db00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aec6675a800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aff18b47700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afdcbb4a500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0afd14354a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad467f48500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0aff06b46900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
THe wheel studs had to be custom as well. I made them out of all thread rod equivlent to grade eight bolts. I'm starting to worry that might be to brital what do ya'll think?

nice machine work!!!!!

nice machine work!!!!!

x2 :smokin:

Seeing your work is almost enough to get me back into school to learn the machinest trade (already have some background in manufacturing). Friggin beautiful man. :bounce2:

Very nice machine work! You could make a fortune selling 6 lug 14ff hubs over on the Chevy sites.

I wish I worked as SLOW as you do! :laughing: Awesome build!

THe wheel studs had to be custom as well. I made them out of all thread rod equivlent to grade eight bolts. I'm starting to worry that might be to brital what do ya'll think?

Why do you worry about them being brittle? Have you done anything to them to make them brittle? I would be more worried about the fact that the studs don't have a shoulder in the hub. The threaded rod has very limited contact with the hub compared to a shoulder'd stud.

I wish I worked as SLOW as you do! :laughing: Awesome build!




Why do you worry about them being brittle? Have you done anything to them to make them brittle? I would be more worried about the fact that the studs don't have a shoulder in the hub. The threaded rod has very limited contact with the hub compared to a shoulder'd stud.
This build has been going on since Memorial day 2006 while it's not that slow thats alot of wheeling I missed.:(
I did not think about the contact with the hub, good point. However the threaded rod goes through an 1.5 of hub and has a nut welded on the back side to shoulder it up and not let it move, hopefully.

Very nice machine work! You could make a fortune selling 6 lug 14ff hubs over on the Chevy sites.

Thanks. Steel Especially 4340 is stupid high right now. Don't think that i could charge enough to make money but thanks for the compliments. All the big dogs get thier parts cast to cut down on the cost.

nice, i just got my drivers side boatsides done. after cutting it off, it was scary looking. but now that i have it tubed up, it looks amazing. good luck, i assume you will be running tube down the side and plating off that? keep the pics comming.
Can you post some pic's in your build thread? I would like to see another view of how to do these things. Did you decide to keep the jeep? I'm not sure how i am going to cover them yet, I am trying to get some suggestion by posting this thread. I am leaning towards three plates dimpled for strengh and covered with UHMW or Delran.

Hey could I get some pics of your rear suspention that looks like what I want to do with my YJ, also are you using the front Leaf spring mount for your ancor point? thanks and sorry for jacking your thread..


nicknavoni@comcast.net
I will get you some pics of the rear suspension over new year weekend. It is too dark when i get home to get any good pics. The front mount is not the forward leaf spring mount. It was about fout inches to far back to use for my application. I did not want to gain that much wheel base with the rear stretch. They are pretty week also. Pictures later.

SICK machine work

"Quote"
The wheel studs had to be custom as well. I made them out of all thread rod equivlent to grade eight bolts. I'm starting to worry that might be to brital what do ya'll think?[/QUOTE]

First off, BAD ASS Skills, Got to hand it to a guy with that kind of effort. Talk about build it your self.
About your wheel studs, Get or go to a parts house and look through their Dorman Catalog, It will have a stud to fit in your application.

Cool stuff.:smokin:

Cole just mentioned that you were about to start a build up thread.
Keep up the good work. The Heep is looking wheelable again.
If you hurry this build up you can make atleast ONE wheeling trip next year!

What bender did you end up going with?

I am leaning towards three plates dimpled for strengh and covered with UHMW or Delran.

Since you have the dies available, the dimpled plates sound adequate.
Excuse my ignorance, is there a difference between Delran & Delrin?
If not, I think black Delrin (Delran) skins would be sick for boat sides. They would look similar to Blabla's rockers, only slicker than greased shit!

RK

"Quote"
First off, BAD ASS Skills, Got to hand it to a guy with that kind of effort. Talk about build it your self.
About your wheel studs, Get or go to a parts house and look through their Dorman Catalog, It will have a stud to fit in your application.?
Cool stuff.:smokin:

Thanks I will give that a look before I install the rotors.

Cole just mentioned that you were about to start a build up thread.
Keep up the good work. The Heep is looking wheelable again.
If you hurry this build up you can make atleast ONE wheeling trip next year!

What bender did you end up going with?
I built my own from the plans on shop forum, then modified it to fit and air over hyd. cylinder. It is still not 100% finished but it works. I will post so pic's for you later.

Since you have the dies available, the dimpled plates sound adequate.
Excuse my ignorance, is there a difference between Delran & Delrin?
If not, I think black Delrin (Delran) skins would be sick for boat sides. They would look similar to Blabla's rockers, only slicker than greased shit!

RK
I just can't spell is all,:flipoff2: in case you haven't noticed, I meant Delran. I am leaning towards going this route i just want to see if UHMW or DELRAN is going to hold up better. They both come in black and price is pretty close but hella expensive:barf: . So what ever I put has to last!

I picked up a UHMW 24X48 inch piece for about 100 bucks from McMaster Carr.

I picked up a UHMW 24X48 inch piece for about 100 bucks from McMaster Carr.

THanks I will look in to that. I am going to need two 24 x 60 inch pieces to cover the sides and another for the bottom later.

Man u really kick ass on that machine work. Truly amazing skill.

Yeah, details like those hubs and spindles are amazing.

Those spindles and hubs are sweet!
Very nice work, loving that JD green

looking good!

That is some nice work. Did you do the programming for the parts?

Hey Blase, I really like how you integrated the tube bumper and Stinger with the shackle hole. Nice.
Looks good so far, I'll be watching so I know when we can go wheelin again.

Hey Blase, I really like how you integrated the tube bumper and Stinger with the shackle hole. Nice.
Looks good so far, I'll be watching so I know when we can go wheelin again.

Thanks shell! I was able to get alot more done over the new years weekend. I will try to post some tech in the next couple of days. Shooting for Feb28th or so to have it ready to wheel again.

That is some nice work. Did you do the programming for the parts?

Thanks. yes I did do all the programming.

Ok more updates. It was a very productive New Years weekend! I was able to cut out all six plates that will close in the boatsides and clearance the floor for the t-case. I also made sure that my home made dimplie dies worked, and they did:grinpimp: . I used poster board as templates to get the size of each plate section.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd403e88900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd45be8d100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I then transfered the template on to my .125 steel plate and cut it out with the plasma. I used some angle iron as my straight edge to help cut down on the grinding.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd488693200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
THis is what the plates look like tacked in place. The tabs on each plate are just to help me hold them in and weld at the same time.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddeaed694800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd234e8bd00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddddb6299000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Now that the plates are cut and fit I have to remove them cut and dimple the holes and piant everything behind them before I reinstall them. I was also able to drill all the holes in the mounting flange that ties the boatsides back into the tub and make some renforcing plates(big washers) to go inside the tub and HOPEFULLY straighten the sides out a little more.

Ounce I had the hardest part of the day done, cutting out the plates I decided to tackle the job of laying out the dimple pattern. I have never used dimple dies before so I'm not sure if theres a right and wrong way to lay them out in order to get the biggest strengh gains:( . This is what I came up with. Tell me what you think now because i have not put the holes in the plates yet, only the templates.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd3cca8dd00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
1ST plate on the passenger side
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd3cb29ea00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
2nd plate on the passenger side
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd3c329e200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
All three passenger templates.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd76ca87f00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
ON the Jeep
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd7caa8d900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Another on the jeep.
Remeber the plan is to cover these up with UHMW or Delran so the placement of the holes are only for strengh. Worse case is that i will make one or two trips with out the "plastic" until I can pony up the bucks for it. I went 1.5 from the edges with all the holes mostly because I was not sure how well the dies would work on the edges of the plates. What do ya'll think? Flame on:mad3:

Well my New Years day got off to a slow start and the thought I could not get out of my head was thats a s*#t of holes and I'm not even sure if my DIY dies are even going to work. So I took one of the scrap pieces of .125 plate that I had cut out an 1.5 hole and tried them out.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd127a83700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd1a6298600000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Success!:cool2: I was even suprised to see no marks at all on the dies!

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd6ad691600000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df24b3127cce80ddd66169da00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I was suprised at not seeing any marks becuase they are not heat treated. I made them out of 4140 p110 with a HRC of 38. We will see how they hold up that a lot of holes to flair.

Well seeing that the dies worked got me motivated to get to work. After a quick run to the shop I had to put the dimpling on hold because all the mills where set up:barf: . I will have to wait to punch all the holes till I can get some free time on machines. So I decided to see how bad i was going to have to cut the floor to fit the transmission and t-case back in. As I still don't have a new trans yet I bolted the t-case back to the adapter and bolted and shimmed the whole thing back to the old x-member. I had alot of cutting to do and this is what i ended up with.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb630809c3900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
T-case and adapter bolted in place.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb621ed5df400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
THe hole.
It is a very close fit between the t-case and the bottom of my seat bars on my cage!
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb63124dc0500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb636a59c1f00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I will have some more triming to do but i don't want to cut any more than I have to so I am going to wait untill it's all bolted together for real to do my final cuts. I'm learning real quick that it sucks working by my self! I could not get my cage out on my own so I used a jack stand to tilt the cage out of the way so i could make all my cuts. It looks funny so i thought I would share some pics.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb639055d1000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb6393cdc1900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

WOW, THAT'S A SHITLOAD OF HOLES.
Not sure if that would actually strengthen the plate, but I'm no expert. Hopefully someone in the know will chime in.
That flared hole does look good though, can't wait to use mine. Thanks for that.:D
Yeah, working alone sucks some times, but you get it done exactly the way YOU want it, everytime.

Well that about wrapped up my weekend. I don't remeber if I mentioned it before but I took off the 1 inch body lift. This is the reason that i had to cut the floor to fit the t-case back in. Turns out that one inch makes a huge differance!! I am glad i did it though because it showed me where the front output had been rubbing pretty hard on the front floor pan.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb63ed99c6700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
This is going to be the area that is going to require the most cutting ounce I get the drive train in for good. The front output on the t-case is half way in the jeep and half under it.:shaking:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb636b81d3200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf39b3127cce8eb62359dc7100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Should make trail repair easy though:flipoff2: . Just some little things I can allready see are going to be some small problems before I can go wheeling. One is the front drive shaft clearances. It is going to be very close to the oil filter and the torque converter cover won't fit. It also already tore a hole in the drivers exhaust before I lower the jeep so it's going to rip it off now! I am hoping that a two piece drive shaft and custom header will fix these problems? The drag link and tie rod are also very close to the frame at ride height. Theirs only two or three inchs between the top of them and the bottom of the frame. I might have to notch out the frame to clear these. Last but not least is the upper links in the rear. Thier is about 3-3/4 between them and one of the rear cross members.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf38b3127cce8ebda763a46b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
It would not be that big a deal but I have already notch this x-member from the top to clear the sump on my fuel cell:shaking: . And the back of the jeep still needs to come down about an inch to make the jeep level. Lower is a b*#@h! OH well to late to turn back now. Add all these new problems to the list and I had better get back to work if i ever want to go wheeling again.

The flares would add a ton of strength............but I wouldnt put holes in a skid surface, would tend to catch on things I would imagine ;) I would put something on the backside of those 1/8" plates though or they will dent/deform easier.

Brad, He's gonna use the 1/8" sheet with flared holes behind some 1/4" UHMW or the like.
You think with the span he has between tubes that the 1/8" sheet will still deform if it's supporting the UHMW?
?

Brad, He's gonna use the 1/8" sheet with flared holes behind some 1/4" UHMW or the like.
You think with the span he has between tubes that the 1/8" sheet will still deform if it's supporting the UHMW?
?

Ah, makes more sense now that I went back and read it. :flipoff2:

Like I said, dimples will add a ton of strength to those peices. Look in last months petersens 4wd mag, they showed the base plates of the buggy that Goat made. undimpled it bowed with someone standing on it, dimpled it held the weight of the guy. Tried to find it but its from last months mag and not on the site anymore.

Brad, He's gonna use the 1/8" sheet with flared holes behind some 1/4" UHMW or the like.
You think with the span he has between tubes that the 1/8" sheet will still deform if it's supporting the UHMW?
?

<drunk>Based on the condition of this rig before the overhaul, Yes, the 1/8 steel will deform. I think that if the Delran (not New Joursy version) might help it spring back to form. If I can sober up tonight (or tomorrow) I could run an FEA on the design and see what the deformation is.</drunk>

Sorry for the drunken ramble everyone.

<drunk>Based on the condition of this rig before the overhaul, Yes, the 1/8 steel will deform. I think that if the Delran (not New Joursy version) might help it spring back to form. If I can sober up tonight (or tomorrow) I could run an FEA on the design and see what the deformation is.</drunk>

Sorry for the drunken ramble everyone.

I would love to see what it would take to bend these plates with the holes in them. The longest span I think is less than 20 inches and with have 13 holes at the current plan. Another reason I went with .125 is with the angle I am thinking that I won't hit them as much as I used to:grinpimp: . I have time to add some supports if I have to since I just spent an azz load of money trying to stop azz holes from stealing my truck! So I don't have alot of money to spend on the heep.

Hey Blase, I really like how you integrated the tube bumper and Stinger with the shackle hole. Nice.
Looks good so far, I'll be watching so I know when we can go wheelin again.

Hey Shell with all the set backs lately :barf: I don't think I will have it back together for the Katmcey opening. If you are planning on going let me know and I will round up Beefy and some others and just ride shot gun. By the way If you have an open seat I'm calling shot gun:flipoff2: . Wrenching and fabing is fun but I have it get out of dodge and go wheeling soon before I forget how fun it is:mad3: . I might even call Peacok so we can laugh at his feathers getting flustered:D :D :D .

Peacock :laughing: :laughing:
I'm not sure if I'll be able to swing the Katemcy opener due to scheduling conflicts at work. I will have to see as it gets a little bit closer. You got shotgun if I go.:smokin:

As for the tech, I thought that you would reach a point of diminishing returns with the flared holes once they reached a certain density on the panel you're building.
Does anybody have a rule of thumb for how much percentage of a panel should be flared holes vs. how much needs to remain flat?

Well I got a little more work done this weekend. It's not much but it's more than I expected since I had to work all weekend:mad3: . I was able to get all the holes put in the rocker plates, put up lights in the garage, and get some UHMW to cover all the getto fab.:flipoff2: I was able to dimple one plate just to see what the finished product looked like.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810e40f81700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Holes in the passenger side plates.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810e3d795a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
1/2 thick UHMW
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810e53793400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Another
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810feeb82100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers front plate with the holes dimpled.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810eb2f8e500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Lights. Hopefully this will allow me to get a little more work done now that I can work after dark. Should make for better pictures also.

I got lucky with the UHMW thankfully. I was talking to the purchasing guy at the shop about my project and he told me about a vender that we used on a large porject we did will plastics. ONe call got me two pieces of 1/4 thick uhmw for under a 100 bucks! The next day when the pieces came in the vender messed up and sent 1/2 instead of 1/4! They told me to keep the 1/2 and sent out some 1/4 the next day. THe 1/4 looked funny where it met up with the upper bar so i'm going to use the 1/2 instead. I think it will also be alittle stronger.

I did how ever run into a problem. When i was done dimpling the front panel it has a huge bow in it. It is bowed to the middle in the direction the holes are pressed into the plate. I'm not sure if it is a problem with the DIY dies are with the pattern in which I pressed them. Any thougts? It is a big problem because this will not give me a flat surface to mount the UHMW. I am going to take another look at the way I made the dies, I think maybe the radious is to big at the angles on the male half. Not sure thow
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df35b3127cce80810fdab81500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
It's hard to see in the picture but if you look at the bottom you can see it. It is about one inch in the middle if i lay it down on a flat surface. Any suggestions?

Either put the plate in the press and press down on each dimpled surface to flatten it out or lay the sheet on the floor and hammer on the dimpled ridge to get it to lay flat. All of them do that to the metal you just have to straighten back out. It might take a bit of the dimple out but not a biggy.

Thanks I will try that.

I'm learning real quick that it sucks working by my self!
Give Cole a call. It's not like he has anything important going on:rolleyes:
When is the Katemcy opening?
Build is looking good!

Thanks. Katmcey opens the first weekend of feb.

Shelljeep PM'd me about this project to add some info on the flared holes. 1/8" thick sheet is pretty thick for flared holes. I would use .080 or .090" thk 4130 sheet, it is not that expensive but probably 3-4 times the strength of that 1/8" hot rolled plate.

All flared hole dies will bow the panel after you flare the holes and are a bitch the straighten, the thicker the material, the more it will bow. One good trick is after you flare the hole, flip the male die over so the large end of the die is against the sheet and press it again, it will flatten the sheet almost back to normal.

As far as hole spacing goes, a good rule of thumb is to space the holes 1/4 to 1/3 of the hole diameter between the beginning of the deformed edge of the flared hole to the edge of the panel and between holes.

Drew, That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.
Thanks for taking the time to add that to the discussion.

Blase, have you began patching the floor yet?
Interested to see what you do there.

As for that rear crossmember, does it only serve to stiffen the frame? Or are there links mounted to it? If it is just for the frame than it can easily be replaced with 1.75x.120 tubing shaped for the clearance you need.

You're right, there's alot of stuff that pops up when you try to stay low.

Thank guys I am going to get back in the garage this weekend to try and finish up the rockers and the front bumper. I will try flipping the dies and fix my planels then.
Shell your right all it does is stiffen the frame. I can easly remove it becuase I have one extra already because it is an older frame. I am waiting to see how this weekend goes and what progress I make. If all goes well I am going to cut the frame to drop the back end some more. I am waiting to adress the x-member then.
NOt sure how much I will get done though, GOT TO WATCH THEM SAINTS.
WHO DA? WHO DA? WHO DA SAY THEY GONNA BEAT DEM SAINTS.

Football's pussy.
Go work on your crawler.:flipoff2:

WHO DAT? WHO DAT? WHO DAT SAY THEY GONNA BEAT DEM SAINTS.
You "Texas Guys" are silly:laughing:

I would love to see what it would take to bend these plates with the holes in them. The longest span I think is less than 20 inches and with have 13 holes at the current plan. Another reason I went with .125 is with the angle I am thinking that I won't hit them as much as I used to:grinpimp: . I have time to add some supports if I have to since I just spent an azz load of money trying to stop azz holes from stealing my truck! So I don't have alot of money to spend on the heep.

Can you give me more details on the dimple die you used? Actually could you take some measurements right off the plates? I really don't have any dimensions that I can accurately loft the dimples in 3D CAD. Can you get me the outermost affected diameter on the large side and the innermost thru-hole diameter on the other side? EDIT: I also need the depth of the dimple... outer face of the flat plate to outermost edge of the dimple. Also, how much does the rig weigh roughly? I will need that for the FEA.

The plate that I have drawn is 20 x 15 and it looks porportionally close. If you could get the outer dimensions and maybe some pattern dimensions for the dimple dies I can make this very accurate.

I honestly barely remember typing that because I had about 15 :beer: 's. I probably should buy a star so I can post some screenshots of this dimple die'd plate. This is the first time I have messed with the loft feature in 3D CAD. I will upload them to my webspace tonight and post them in this thread. :smokin:

So I ran a full FEA analysis on a 20" x 15" x 1/8" mild steel plate with a similar dimple pattern to the ones you have shown above. The dimples were 1.47" ID, 2.47" OD and 0.50" thick. I then simply supported the two 15" sides of the plate with full constraints. I then applied a load of 500lb to a 1in^2 area off to the side of the center dimple.

Personally I feel that a 500lb/in^2 load is a conservative load. FEA results show that the plate would deflect 0.50" at the point of the load contact. It also tells me that the dent would be permanent because the stresses in the area exceed the yield point for steel.

I then put in a load of 5000lb in the same square inch area and the result was that the center half of the plate would permanently deform 4.46".

Keep in mind that these results are for the steel plate only. The UHMW will add SOME rigidity to the equation because of the 1/2" thickness more than anything. I will post pictures tonight.

Here are the images:

500lb loading
Von Mises Stress' Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 von mises.jpg)
Von Mises Stress' Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 von mises back.jpg)
Displacement Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 displacement.jpg)
Displacement Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 displacement back.jpg)
Deformed Shape Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 deformed shape.jpg)
Deformed Shape Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 deformed shape back.jpg)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6ce20b3127cce8d0ad170353800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo

What kind of lathe is that?
BTW sick fab skills.

Here are the images:

500lb loading
Von Mises Stress' Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 von mises.jpg)
Von Mises Stress' Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 von mises back.jpg)
Displacement Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 displacement.jpg)
Displacement Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 displacement back.jpg)
Deformed Shape Front (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 deformed shape.jpg)
Deformed Shape Back (http://www.jasonhabrock.com/case2 deformed shape back.jpg)

Thanks for running some #'s. It bent alot easier than i thought it would:( . I am almost done so i'll just bash it and hope for the best.




What kind of lathe is that?
BTW sick fab skills.

Mazak Nexas quick turn 350. Thanks

One good trick is after you flare the hole, flip the male die over so the large end of the die is against the sheet and press it again, it will flatten the sheet almost back to normal.

.

Guys thanks for all the tip's!!!! I went out in the garage when I got home and tried to fix my mess. It turned out to be an easy fix just like you guys said it would be. Goat I wasn't quite sure what you meant but it gave me the idea that worked great. I took the female die turned the plate upside down(with the flare facing up) and pressed the plate againsted the bottom (flat) of my press. It worked great the plate is now perfectly straight:grinpimp: . I wish I would have known about having to press each hole twice before I did this because that a chit load of holes to do twice.:mad3: Oh well it's how iI want it so no one to blame but me:shaking: . Hoping to finish the boat sides and cage mounts this weekend:bounce2:. Who DAT, Who DAT, Who DAT, say they gonna beat DEM SAINTS.:dustin: Now is that better B.A.R.K.?

Well I made a little more progress so I thought I would update this thread.
I was able to get all the plates flared and pressed back flat last weekend before my trip to the E.R. It's amazing how much the plates bend and how easy it is to straighten them back out.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817ffd4fd99100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Before
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817ffd3258dc00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
After
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817ffd4458aa00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Pressing them back flat
Now that the plates are all done I am going to tie the cage into the frame via the rockers. I think this will give me a much stronger cage and strengthen the rockers at the same time. I spent a coulpe of hours at the shop to make some tube flange plates and a couple of hours welding them on to the jeep. I still have to pull the cage out and finish welding up the mounts but Now I can start closing up the rockers. Heres some pic's of the cage mounts and tube flanges.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817fe2e699af00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Tube flange in the mill
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817fe67c993700000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
they are made from some .25 x 2.5 cold roll we had at the shop.
Start to finish.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817fe71d58fe00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Front drivers side mount.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df06b3127cce817fe477993d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side middle mount. This mount is more to add strength and support to the rockers than the cage. It is in the middle of the door so that their is no span of more than 20 inchs anywhere. As I said I still have to pull the cage out and weld up these middle mounts and the inside of the front mounts. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rockers finished and maybe tie the back cage mount in to the frame. Only time will tell.

Wow, nice work. I cant imagine how much time you have in machining all of that. :eek:

Well it's days like today that make it all worth while!!:grinpimp: I was not able to completely finish up my boatside but I got close enough to see what the final product will look like:smokin: . After getting most of the cage tie in's finished sat I started off sunday by tapeing off the little bit of green thier is left on the jeep for painting that was GOING to happen later today.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81667ed5b60500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Taped up!






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81667343f60d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side with all the panels in and dimpled.






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81667c80b65100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Passenger side welded in and primed.






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81667524f66900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side all painted and ready for UHMW.






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce8167883317e400000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side with the UHMW and screws in. I ran out of time to attach the UHMW so I held it in place with the c-clamps just to see what it would look like.:D






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81678ed9963d00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Close up of the screws and finished bling work. It's hard to get a good picture of it in the garage! and since my driveway so sloped and the dam thing still can't move I can't get it outside without help. I am thinking about rounding off the outside edges of the UHMW what do you guys think? It sticks out far enough to hit your shin getting in and out so the rounded edge would help with that and look cleaner I think.






http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7df09b3127cce81678872969500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Heres a better veiw of what I mean. Well that about it for progress. I am staring to see light at the end of the tunnel now. I am sending the trans to the shop this week so it should be driveable some time very soon . I can tell that I am going to have to make a few trips with it not 100% complete but I can live with that. Who knows maybe I will like been able to grease my front u-joint while straped into my five points.

SWEET!!! Great stuff, Blase... btw, for a "temporary" floor fix (just to cover ur stuff) I used some plastic I got from a circle track shop... they use it for air dams and such... its about 1/8" thick, about 30" wide, can be cut easily with tin snips and is tough enough that u can run #10 self tapping sheet metal screws thru it and they won't pull out... I think Beefy has seen my floor pan (covers my doubler) For humps and bends, I just cut a slit, overlapped it and run the self-tappers thru it...

Looks good Blase, glad you got to a spot where you can actually see the fruits of your labor. I vote yes for the routered edge on the UHMW.
Beast, that's a good tip on that plastic, I've been running with my tranny uncovered so long now that I'm used to it. Just couldn't seem to move that particular project all the way to the top of the priority list, you know? The plastic you brought up sounds like just the ticket for an easier fix.

Looks good Blase! When we going wheeling again?

I'd be more worried about racking my nuts on the c-clamps, not my shin on the UHMW...




Sweet build man!

Man that thing looks SWEET!! I've been tossing around the idea to do the boatside for awhile now but wasn't sure how it'd look........NOW I DO!!:D

Looks good Blase! When we going wheeling again?

Frank I am hoping to finish the side this weekend and wrap up the front end also. I want to try and make a trip before the last weekend in april when I have a trip scheduled for Hot Springs. How flexable is your schedule?


I'd be more worried about racking my nuts on the c-clamps, not my shin on the UHMW...


:idea: I had not thought of that. I may have to cover them with foam before the first run. Padding always helps:flipoff2: .





[QUOTE=Gotlift01;6421645]Man that thing looks SWEET!! I've been tossing around the idea to do the boatside for awhile now but wasn't sure how it'd look........NOW I DO!!:D


Thanks. Just a thought now that their almost done. I waited about two years before I decided to do this and in the mean time the jeep got beat to chit!! This made it MUCH harder to make it look nice. It's a ten footer:D . It's hard to get everthing straight when what your working on isn't!

Blase, what did you do on the interior where the floor pan meets up to the boatsides?

Frank I was pretty careful when I made my cuts so right now it's just resting up against the steel plates. I'm not sure if i and going to try and weld them together are not. Their are some gaps that would have to be filled but their not to big. I will take some pic's this weekend so you can see and give me your opion on what you think I should do. I am planning on leaving them like they are for our 07 wheeling season and closing them up next winter when I build a new cage.

Hell don't look to me for opinions. I only asked so I can plan my next mod. :D Yours looks so good I think I am going for this next.

hey Blase... u gonna make the Big Meat Run??? that's before late April... :cool2:

Beast I am going to try and make it however, I have alot of work ahead and don't get alot of time off to work at it. I got the boatsides finished yesterday and will try to button up the front today but I still don't have a tranny. I shipped it out friday so If i'm lucky I will get it back in two weeks. I will still have to install it which will mean alot of in and out to get the floor cut and make a new crossmember and skid plate so i don't break it again!! Then once thats in i have to do something for bumpstops and solve the clearance issues with the front driveshaft and egausht. I am going to try and make it though.

cool... good luck!! Hope to see ya there... if not, DEFINATELY the Deflated run...

Updates. Friday I was finally sent the trans to get fixed, getting close now.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc25b3127cce81084daa94f100000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I was also able to finish the boatside, winch mount and the front bumper got cleaned up and finished.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc25b3127cce8108437a151600000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc25b3127cce810843c7949b00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc25b3127cce81084177151a00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc25b3127cce8108461a55ec00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Frank this is what the inside looks like. I think after looking at it this weekend I am going to put a "second" floor in to close in the inside. What I will do is sheet down the bars on the inside like I did on the outside, Does that make any sence?
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc24b3127cce81344e92cceb00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc24b3127cce81344eab4de200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc24b3127cce81344ea94de000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Winch mount. It also serves to stiffin the steering x-member back up.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc24b3127cce81344e934dda00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Before.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dc24b3127cce81344f490d9800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
After. Looks like GETTO fab in the pic's but in person it's more like 9th ward!

After. Looks like GETTO fab in the pic's but in person it's more like 9th ward!

Man that cracked me up!
Looking good!

Sweet build - this give me some more motivation to push hard on my build - I also need to start a build thread...

Ok time for some more updates. I have been taking care of finishing the small details like the rear brakes and wiring/ lights in the front. I was also able to get some machine time to do things like drill my rotors and make some tabs to hold my new trans. x-member.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df230125200000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Here are the rotors drilled. They are off of a 78-79 full size bronco and I machined them to match the front rotors so I can carry one spare. RUST:mad3: they sat on the floor of my shop for three days and rusted this much!! Stupid rust belt.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df24b931900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
In a stroke of luck A.R.P. returned my e-mail and had the exact wheel studs I needed.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df21d934f00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
rotors, wheel studs and axles installed and painted
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df3afd36500000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Brake calipers,pads and hoses all hooked up.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df00f126c00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
Clearances with 15in alum. wheel.



I have also had the dis-pleasure of dealing with T.C.I. on my trans:mad3: . After I called them at least five times before sending it to them It got over their and everything "changed". Long story short after I told them to send MY trans back to me they told me they had already cut the torque converter apart. So they had to rebuild it for nothing which took forever. By the time I got the six boxes back with parts scatered everywhere in them
Shelljeep had found a rebuild one on this board forsale about four hours from me. Thanks Shell I owe you. All I ended up doing was swapping in my tail shaft.

I have to say my old case was not a K-case and after looking at the new one which is theirs more "beef" around the mounting flange atleast. I still would have boken the case but it would have made a louder bang:grinpimp: .
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df764529c00000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df7a1d36900000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
The new trans that is still sitting on the floor of my garage.

I am taking off fri to make a three day weekend so I can try to get the trans back in and start on the new x-member.

I also got the grille and bumper painted.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df411127000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I found a set of Pro Comp lights that where thinner than the factory heads light and still fit in the grille behind the factory trim rings.:smokin:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df419127800000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
I don't remeber the part number right now but I can find it if anyone needs it. I was also able to get most of the wiring back in order and hooked up.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7dd33b3127cce826df53952c000000016103AYuGbhu4Yo
The list is getting smaller and hopefully after this weekend it will not included installing the trans!!

I was also able to find a used cutting brake on the board but don't think I am going to install it right now. I want to wheel and dont see it as having to be done so it will be a project for later.

If anyone in the houston area is bored(yea right) and wants to help P.M. me, it's a bitch installing that shit by my self. I will post more updates next week and MAYBE by then I will be able to roll it out of the garage.

Looks good, but why the drilled rotors? They decrease the amount of surface area on your brake pad, reduce strength of the rotor, heat faster under braking and suffer cracks around the holes.

I guess there's a bling factor to it, but it's definitely not something I would ever do to my rotors.

Nice work. That sucks about the tranny. The first couple times I drove my Jeep the valvebody was binding on the 2-3 shift. I called TCI and they told me to check the line pressure in each test port. I called them back with in-spec pressure readings and they basically shrugged thier shoulders and told me "put some miles on it and see what happens" :shaking:

How do you like having the tranny cooler in that spot on the firewall? Right now my battery is in that spot. I am moving the to the other side of the firewall when I pull the HVAC box this weekend. Right now my cooler is under the rear floor and it's a little too close to the exhaust for my comfort.

Looks good, but why the drilled rotors? They decrease the amount of surface area on your brake pad, reduce strength of the rotor, heat faster under braking and suffer cracks around the holes.

I guess there's a bling factor to it, but it's definitely not something I would ever do to my rotors.

I did the front over four years ago and have not had any problems with them so I did the rear to match the front. When I did the front I was learning how to run a CNC mill so I thought why not it will save a Little weight and look:smokin: . All of the research that I have done also says that a drilled and/or slotted rotor will stop better. Something about releasing gases put off by the pads.




Nice work. That sucks about the tranny. The first couple times I drove my Jeep the valvebody was binding on the 2-3 shift. I called TCI and they told me to check the line pressure in each test port. I called them back with in-spec pressure readings and they basically shrugged thier shoulders and told me "put some miles on it and see what happens" :shaking:

How do you like having the tranny cooler in that spot on the firewall? Right now my battery is in that spot. I am moving the to the other side of the firewall when I pull the HVAC box this weekend. Right now my cooler is under the rear floor and it's a little too close to the exhaust for my comfort.

I love my cooler where it is. However it does not stay exposed like in the picture. I have an alum cover that covers it from rocks and mud thrown up by the tire. I don't have any pic's but I will be cutting them to clear the rockers pretty soon you can check it out then. It does not get much air flow as the cover only leaves it open at the top to the engine and at the bottom(no holes in it) but have never had any trouble with the tranny running hot YET.

If you were in DFW I'd be over to help Blase.

Well I will be the first one to tell you that updates with no pictures are sometime useless. However my wife is on Vac. with the camera so I can't take any pics. right now. With no honey can you do this or honey can you watch charlee I have been able to get alot done. THe trans. and transfer case are back in and all bolted up. The new cross member is about half welded up and the frame mounts are all tacked in. I am mounting the whole skid to five points on the frame with r.e. 1.5 o.d. spring bushings. The trans and transfer case will bolt to it and the motor mounts will be made useing the same bushings. Will this be enough flex with out the addition of another rubber mount on the trans?
After getting everthing back in I realized that I have to redo some things that I was not planning on and some that I was. The motor mounts I was not planning on changing. BUT once the t-case was back in I can see how little room I have to get the front drive shaft hooked up and I would not make sense to half ass it now. The exhaust I new was going to have to go. Does anyone have any suggestions on making my own headers? I am planning on cutting all the tubes off of my current headers and reusing the flanges but i'm not sure what to do about bending the tubes.
I am hoping to finish welding up the x-member tonight and starting on the acttual mount later this weekend. I will post up some pics later this coming weekend.

"HOLY SHIT" You have done alot of work. It all looks very strong and good. You will be dam happy when its done. :D

"HOLY SHIT" You have done alot of work. It all looks very strong and good. You will be dam happy when its done. :D

Thank's:D .Right back at you, I am waiting to see what your new hood looks like. If It is anything like the rest of your jeep it will be :smokin: .


Now for some more picture less updates. I was able to weld up all the mounts on the frame as well as the x-member.:grinpimp: . And I guess it is true what they say:that practice makes perfect, because my welds didn't suck too bad.:shaking: I will post pictures later this weekend.

just going threw your thread...what fuel cell are you using and does it have baffles? were did you get it?

I used and RCI fuel cell with a rear/bottom sump. It holds 15 gallons and Does not have any baffles. It came with foam from summint but after one ride it was clogging up filters so I took it out. I have not had any problems since I removed the foam.
However you have to get rid of the back seat in order to run it. RCI does make a cell that fits behind the seat if you need but I don't no the part Number. Hope this helps.

what fuel pump are you running

I don't remember the part #:shaking: but I know it's made by BBK for high preformace Mustangs.

Im Glad I Taught You Everything I Knew. I Like Your Little Spline Cutter. Great Job On The Full Floater Kit Now Give Me The Programs So I Can Make Me Some One Day. Maybe One Day We Can Wheel Together Again, Like Old Times.

Im Glad I Taught You Everything I Knew. I Like Your Little Spline Cutter. Great Job On The Full Floater Kit Now Give Me The Programs So I Can Make Me Some One Day. Maybe One Day We Can Wheel Together Again, Like Old Times.

No doubt in the scout:D .

Let me know if you want the programs, Heck if your nice I might even go run them for ya. I'm not sure you remeber how to run anything but your computer:flipoff2: .

By the way I have a 14 bolt if you want one. You would need to case the threads on one of the spindles but other than that it's all good.:shaking:

How about an update from the last wheeling trip?

I have gotten some more work done, however it still a long way from wheeling. I made the last trip as a winch bitch:mad3:. I will try to post pictures of the heep later this weekend.

How is the rig coming?

Nice build. The machine work is pretty cool.

-Dan

Nice build. The machine work is pretty cool.

-Dan

x11billion

Ok guys I have been slacking big time, and i'm not just talking about the updates!!! I have had very little time to work on the jeep so it has been coming very slowly:mad3:.
I am hoping to have new building, that the company I work for is building, finished by the end of July. This has been taking up most of my time and the rest has been spent with the family.Since March I have managed to get only four eight hours days of work in on this project:shaking:.
Looking on the good side of things they have beeb four VERY productive days by my clock. I got some help over the Memorial Day weekend which always helps. I now have the entire drive train bolted back in with the new motor and transmission mounts. I also finished the fab work on the headers and the exhaust. While it did not come out as nice as I was hoping for it did come out nice enough for what I am doing with it. I spent most of the my time on sunday bolting little things back into place(seats,shifters,hoses,ect.). I will try to post up some pictures later this week.

So this is where all the tech on Pirate went to!!!! Nice work. Thanks for giving a Toy owner some inspiration.

Good to hear you have been making some progress Blase. Looks like it will be September before I can spend any appreciable amount of time on mine.

Then don't take it apart. I am trying to have this thing done for a labor day run:grinpimp:. You know how well my dead lines work though:flipoff2:. He's some pictures to go with all the updates.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865f926d55e400000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Hear is the entire exhaust all finished welded. All I have to do now is grind clean the inside where I welded the tubes to the flange so that they flow better.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865f92db555200000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Passenger side header
[25 UHMW to help slide over some of the things that I am now going to hit becuase i'm now lower, and going lower.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865f9098551000000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Side shot of the same x-members. They are all mounted to the frame using 1.5 R.E. bushing and Brackets that I machined.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865f945dd4e700000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Side shot of the transmission mount. It is mounted to the middle x-member and uses the same bushing as the motor mounts.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865f944655cc00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
It also uses the bottom two bolts from the t-case to help strenghten the t-case adapter. It is hard to see in the pic. but it's the best that I could get. With the way the mount is built I am hoping that I will not have any issue with the t-case breaking off the back of the transmission. I have also made a mount that catches the top two bolts from the t-case and ties them to the top of the trans. I can't find any pic's of that right now but I got the idea off of the board so it shouldn't be to hard to find.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865fae5b55cc00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Passenger side motor mount. When I remove it for painting I am going to add a brace from the bottom of the plate on the motor to the Bushing mount on the frame.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865fae85551200000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side motor mount. Like the passerger side I am planning on adding bracing when I remove for paint. This side will be a little harder as the header runs RIGHT under the mount to clear the drive shaft and links that will some day find the front of this rig. I am trying to keep everything out of the way a four link as I am thinking that links and coilovers will be added very soon.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d807b3127cce865fae6cd4cb00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo

This is what I am looking at for a front drive shaft:eek:. It is going to have to be a two piece unit and the carrier bearing will mount to the front x-member of the three. It is going to be very tight but I've got to make it work now. Any suggestions or thought on this?:confused:

Any suggestions or thought on this?:confused:
It is hard to tell from the pictures. Do you have room to put a bend in the front crossmember and eliminate the carrier bearing? This could help with driveline angles.
Crude drawing, but you get the idea.

If the crossmember cant be bent up, can it be bent back to push the carrier bearing closer to the t-case.

Too late.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/shellsingleton/IMG_6248.jpg

It is hard to tell from the pictures. Do you have room to put a bend in the front crossmember and eliminate the carrier bearing? This could help with driveline angles.
Crude drawing, but you get the idea.

If the crossmember cant be bent up, can it be bent back to push the carrier bearing closer to the t-case.
Ross the drive shaft is so high that I would have to rebuild the mount on the frame as it hits when the front end drops. Other wise the shaft is completely on top of that x-member. However I will do some more research to see how hard it would be to do something like that. Good idea thanks.

Too late.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/shellsingleton/IMG_6248.jpg
Oh well I probably won't have my junk done either:grinpimp:.

Happy fourth of July!

God bless America!!


Being a Red blooded American I was lucky enough to have some time off yesterday and spent some time working on the Heep. After reading some of your coments I decided to take another look at the front drive shaft. It turns out since I moved my drive train to the passenger side by one inch that I could put an arch in the front x-member and run a one piece front drive shaft. This is going to save me some cash and time since now I only have to shorten my front drive shafts:D. Thanks guys! This is what I ended up with.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb1d6120ba00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb1c5b601800000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb114b209600000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Once I had that fixed I decide to hook all of the shifters back up to get a better idea what the inside is going to look like when I get finished. I am going to eventually make a cover for this but not for a little while. I'm ready to go wheeling holes in the floor don't rate.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb149b60dc00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo

I also finished grinding the inside of the header flanges. I am finally making some real progress and seeing a little light ant the end of the small details.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb1592a17d00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
However as always with this project I took one step forward and then one back. After fabbing up the x-member I started straighting up under the hood, only to find out the my shock hoop x-member will no longer work:mad3: It is hitting the elbow for the air filter before it is even close to bolting in. I am looking at two possible solutions for this problem. THe first and probably my quick fix will be to simply make an new X-member with a bend in it so that it will clear the elbow for the air filter. The second would be to make some new shock towers in a arch like the ones seen for most coil overs and then make the x-member bend around the elbow. Since I am planning to do a four link and move the axle forward I would have to make the towers twice:shaking:. What do you guys think?
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb11af207200000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb1102a1ef00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo

I would put a small bend in your Xmember..

Get it man.....I like the project.

Where did you get all the machine toys? :smokin:

Where did you get all the machine toys? :smokin:[/QUOTE]

HA! I wish, if they where mine I would not be typing this from work. All the machines are for the company that I work for, Blueline Manufactoring. They let me use the machines on my off time to do what ever I want. They figure that if i'm hear doing something I can help out if their are any questions are problems which is what always happens:shaking:. OH well I get off at three and I'm hoping to have her driving by tomorrow:grinpimp:

The second would be to make some new shock towers in a arch like the ones seen for most coil overs and then make the x-member bend around the elbow. Since I am planning to do a four link and move the axle forward I would have to make the towers twice:shaking:. What do you guys think?
Do you think that you will be able to utilize your existing shocks if you build your new towers to coilover specs. My guess is that your shock will be to short to take advantage of the entire travel. Since you don't have the coilovers or the rest of the suspension fabbed yet, I would just make another cross member with a bend so that you aren't taking any further steps back in the future. Just cut off old towers and fab new ones with all the parts in hand. That is what I would do.

Well I have not been updating this thread but the work has gone on:D.
Here are a couple of pic's. I will post more after the shake down run over Labor Day weekend.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d624b3127cceb89c748127ba00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Drivers side header.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d624b3127cceb89d8ba4473400000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Passenger side header. Everything behind the header is temp just so that I could start the jeep and test out the trans.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d624b3127cceb89d8ad786ef00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Cutting brake and prop. valve mounted and plumbed into the braking system.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d624b3127cceb89c7498a69300000026103AYuGbhu4Yo
Moving under it's own power for the first time in almost a year and a half:mad3:.
As it sits right now I have to install a temp gage, figure out why the cutting brake is not working and remove the skid plate, drop the trans pan and change out the t.v. spring to get it to shift correctly:eek:. I am leaving on Thursday so it will be tight but it will be ready. I still have not flexed it to check for clearance so this will be a trip filled with bugs to work out but a bad trip wheeling is WAY better than a good day at work. MOre to come later.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d924b3127cce86eb1102a1ef00000026103AYuGbhu4Yo



Where'd you get that intake tubing?

Where you headed for Labor Day Blase? I am leaving for Hot Springs on Friday A.M.

That's great dude. Hope it goes well for ya. I'm typing this from a coffeeshop in Ouray.:D

That's great dude. Hope it goes well for ya. I'm typing this from a coffeeshop in Ouray.:D

I love that city:cool2:

Yup, makes ya never wanna leave. :D

How'd the bug killing go, Blase? Tell Beefy that Harold Off said hello.:)
Is there anybody Beefy doesn't know?:confused:

Where'd you get that intake tubing?

I bought my intake from Street and Performance. They have filter/MAF assemblies that only stick out 4" from the Throttle Body. I have a larger one that uses about 6" of room
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalog/08onlinecatalogMAIN.html

Hey guys guess I better update this thread. I headed to Clayton over the labor day weekend only to ride as the winch bitch after 1/2 of 1 trail:mad3:. The trans. that I could never get to shift correctly went out before the first ledge on T.S.O.B.:(. It was a VERY rough trip from the start! Ran the jeep out of gas loading it on the trailer only to have my truck break down the day before we left going to get gas to load the jeep. One cam shaft postion senser later I got to Laf. La. only to realize that I forgot the key to the jeep in Houston:mad3::mad3:. It took me four hours on thursday to drill out the key since normal methods for removing it did not work. Once off the trailer I checked for the first time to see if anything hit when I flexed and it did!
Some very rough fender trimming later and some bump stop installed in Clayton friday morning to keep the steering off of the frame and I was on the trail, or so I thought. All said and done I still had a very good time and a bad day wheeling is better than a good day at work. Nice weather good beer and camp fire stories is all I need.

The intake is for a 5.3l chevy pickup truck and is made by K&N. I am not running a M.A.F. sensor as it does the same thing as some other sensor.

The jeep is at a trans shop back home and will be ready on tuesday. I am hoping to get back up to clayton some time later in Oct. or early Nov. to do some wheeling in my own jeep. We will see how it go's. When I get it back to the house I will take some more pic's of the work that I did not update.

Blase let me know when your heading back to Clayton. I have a trip in the planning stages for around that same time, late October early November.

Blase let me know when your heading back to Clayton. I have a trip in the planning stages for around that same time, late October early November.

Will do!! I am hoping to pick up the jeep next weekend and do some testing at the shop so that next trip will go much better than this one did.

Blase let me know when your heading back to Clayton. I have a trip in the planning stages for around that same time, late October early November.

We are doing the same - 1st weekend in November

Will do!! I am hoping to pick up the jeep next weekend and do some testing at the shop so that next trip will go much better than this one did.



Hey Blase, nice rig. I see you are in Pearland, and so am I (kind of:laughing:) PM coming

We are doing the same - 1st weekend in November

Just looked and the gang Frank and I run with are aiming at the 17th of Nov due to the races bein the first weekend so knocks one or 2 of us out from making the trip

So have you been able to have a good day on the trails yet? Sorry to hear about your luck!

Blase,
Did you build those motor mounts or purchase them and from where. I Still am doing research on the LS swap in my TJ. The stroker idea is not all that great once i got down into the details of it. " The juice isn't worth the Squeeze." Give me a call when you in town so we can meet up or something. We need to let our kids play with each other before the phrase has a new meening.

Hey leave her out of this:D. Yes I built the motor mounts. It was very simple, all I did was use YJ spring bushings(1.5) that fit right into 1-3/4x.12wall DOM and some flat plate to catch the four bolts on the block.

I am hoping to get all the little nick nacks finished this weekend and then heading up to spring on the 17th to play on the W.E. Rock course.

It has been a while since I looked at this thread I need to update this:flipoff2:.

Blase, We need to let our kids play with each other before the phrase has a new meening.

BUAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!:laughing:

IT would seem there have been further changes if the pics you posted in the four seater thread are any indication!

Lets see it! :D

The reason that I have not posted any updates in this thread is becuase the "jeep project" has officially ended:p. The buggy will be using some of the parts off of the jeep but the jeep it self is forsale or if it does not sell to the junker:eek:. Next time I pull the trap off of what is left I will take some pictures of it's final resting place:flipoff2. But in the interest of selling it here are some pictures of it on it's last run back in Oct.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer050.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer026.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer046.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer025.jpg?t=1229807112

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Jeeper1/Katemcy%20Rocks%20Fall%2008/PhotoTransfer004.jpg

Kind of make me sad to think I will not whell this thing again but times change and I need room for the family. If it was nto for that I woudl never have taken this thing apart!!

Looking forward to seeing the new buggy.
Now that Cole is in H-Town you should have a shop bitch...

That was a nice jeep. From the spy pics I've seen, the buggy will be even mo'betta.:mr-t:

That was a nice jeep. From the spy pics I've seen, the buggy will be even mo'betta.:mr-t:

Spy pics should equal new thread.

Spy pics should equal new thread.

Slow going grass hoppa. Peps on dis boad not down wit da slow progressy:laughing:. I will most likely start a new thread after the 1st once I have it in the plumbing stage:eek:if all goes well.(ya right like I will be that far along).

Just look at the green giant as a world of knowledge.

So it's after the first, have you gotten as much plumbing done as you wanted?

Interested in starting a build thread for some of us? :D

With the work you did on the Jeep I can't wait to see what you have in store for the buggy!

Just look at the green giant as a world of knowledge.

HA. You have not put any of it to use yet to see if any of it was good knowleadge:flipoff2:.



So it's after the first, have you gotten as much plumbing done as you wanted?

Interested in starting a build thread for some of us? :D

With the work you did on the Jeep I can't wait to see what you have in store for the buggy!

I was not thinking when I put the first:mad3:. But I will post up this picture since it kind of looks like a jeep.
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr152/Blase_60/09%20family%20buggy%20build/P1043025.jpg?t=1231370474

I am putting the motor/trans/t-case in for the first time this week so Plumbing will not start until Feb. 1st. By then I will start a new thread. I will post up what the "green giant" looks like as a close to thread next week.

I was not thinking when I put the first:mad3:. But I will post up this picture since it kind of looks like a jeep.

I am putting the motor/trans/t-case in for the first time this week so Plumbing will not start until Feb. 1st. By then I will start a new thread. I will post up what the "green giant" looks like as a close to thread next week.

Even though only a partial bit of it is Jeep, it's still a damn good looking chassis compared to some of the abortions on here :laughing:

I'll be looking forward to the new thread then.

Oh and I got a good laugh from the signs on the wall.

Nice Rogue chassis. KORE produces a sweet chassis...especially the Rogue Quattro :smokin:

man - I need to roll down to the other side of town and check this out - never seems like enough time...

sweet build, subscribed.:)

Nice Rogue chassis. KORE produces a sweet chassis...especially the Rogue Quattro :smokin:

Yes Kenneth build a nice chassis! This is a hybrid from him. I asked him to take a two seater and put a rear cage area to it so that I can put a back seat. Does that make this a Rouge Three(can't spell three in spanish)?


man - I need to roll down to the other side of town and check this out - never seems like enough time...

Come on down!! I would love to meet some more people in and around Houston that wheel. I am off on most weekends. P.M. me if you find so time and i'll shoot you my phone number.

sweet build, subscribed.:)
I will link the new build once I start a thread. Just build will be complete VERY shortly.

Yes Kenneth build a nice chassis! This is a hybrid from him. I asked him to take a two seater and put a rear cage area to it so that I can put a back seat. Does that make this a Rouge Three(can't spell three in spanish)?

Rogue Tres :flipoff2:

Rogue Tres :flipoff2:

Thanks

Blase it's looking good. Get that thing finshed so I can drool.

update from the weekend. The jeep is sold:D. I got an email Friday morning that a guy back home wanted to buy what was left of the heep. Cash deal and he wnated to pick it up on Saturday. After a long night removing everythign that I still needed he picked it up and took it to it's new home.

http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr152/Blase_60/09%20family%20buggy%20build/P1243128.jpg?t=1232979801

http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr152/Blase_60/09%20family%20buggy%20build/P1243130.jpg?t=1232979837

New spec's are said to include:
Ford 347 stroker
c6
203/205 doubler
44 front
60 rear
and
H1's

That is the end of this thread. Check my sig in the up coming weeks for a thread on the new buggy:D.