I've been searching the site for F150 axle swap in an early bronco. I'm curious on the which way to go. I like the current performance of my bronco but get concerned with the front driveshaft angle.

Is it easier to cut down the axle tubes so I can reuse my current alloy axle setup, and what year HP is easier to cut down.

Or should I just use the axle at full width and stuff it under my truck and build it. What changes am I required to do to make it fit under my truck.

The rearend I have is built also and don't really want to give up either, but I understand the later model 9" can be just as strong.

What are the opinions from you folks that have done this or have friends that have?

I put a full width hp44 and 9" in my 71 and love it. I went from 3.5" lift and LP to a 6.5" lift and HP and the pinion is in the same place. Start with a 77 or earlier front end (get a 78-79 and you'll spend 2days burning $100 worth of grinding wheels removing the cast mounts), move the D wedges in, need a new tie rod and drag link, build a panhard mount and modify panhard bar.

I used a 1975 HP D44 but cut the long side only to make it stock EB width. Not wanting full width, this gave me a housing that would allow for one off the shelf axle shaft so only 1 would be custom. Definatly stay with the earlier years like projectjunkie mentioned the laters have way too much cast on the whole axle. As far as cutting the axle down its not that hard other than getting the C cut off and cleaned up. Just remember measure twice or five times and cut once. Good luck!

use ANY hp full width and have to long tube pulled out and cut down to EB width. my buddy has done it 3 times for tacoma sas swaps WITH EB radous arms. i think the axle needs to be cut down 6 3/4" on the long side

I'm building a set of full widths for my 72 Bronco. I'm leaving them wide. There is a 6" difference in the width of the axles. That means the radius arms are also 6" wider. I know guys that run them as-is with the spring bowed out with no problems. I bought a '76 model axle with the "welded on" wedges. I cut them and moved them in 3" on either side. Also removed the track rod mount. Building one with a raise and beefed up for a hydro assist later on. That way I can remove the drop bracket from the frame. Just gives the rod more clearance of the diff. The same goes for the rear. Cut off the perches moving them in and setting pinion angle at the same time. Full widths have there advantages, but are a bit of work to install. I think they are truly worth the effort.

Another note, if you have full length headers and 3.5" or less lift, the driveshaft and exhaust are going to be close

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/Bucketobolts/110-1045_IMG.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/Bucketobolts/109-0958_IMG.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/Bucketobolts/109-0957_IMG.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/Bucketobolts/109-0955_IMG.jpg

I've built several HP 44s for EBs..you have to remove 5.10" from the long side to use stock-length inner EB axles. I did the first one by pulling tube and shortening it, remachining the ID and OD and pressing it back in. Too much hassle..found it much easier to simply cut the 5.10" inch piece out of the middle of the long tube, properly butt-weld the tube back together, and clam-shell splice another section (ID = stock OD) of tubing over the original.

Here is the one that had the tube pulled, cut and remachined...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/186701/fullsize/dsc00760.jpg

This one is spliced..
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/446549/fullsize/p1010237.jpg

BCM, I like the truss. Been thinking of adding one to my axle also.

BCM, I like the truss. Been thinking of adding one to my axle also.

Thanks. You can't really see it in the pic, but the truss on the second axle is 'kinked' to gain so clearnace relative to what I have with the first one. I'm 'convinced' that the way I truss/box the 44s I built is part of why they seem to hold up well with bigger tires than conventional wisdom says will work.

Here is our 'latest' build..a LP D44 EB axle with a top truss that integrates (and raises) the track bar bolt...
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57148&d=1166831491

I like that even more. Still keeps all the ground clearance and strengthens the housing. How much did you raise the track rod?

Also you did weld the tubes to the center?

I like that even more. Still keeps all the ground clearance and strengthens the housing. How much did you raise the track rod?

Aproximately 2.25" higher than stock. It's going under a rig with 3.5" lift..so won't need dropped track bar bracket. I hate dropped track bar brackets and do not ever use them.

Also you did weld the tubes to the center?

Yes.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm currently running a 5" lift with full lenght headers. I don't think the driveshaft will be an issue.

Does the pinion move frome one side of the housing to the other, or does it stay on the same side? I know it wouldn't be much of a move but I'm curious. I haven't taken a good look at a HP yet

The pinion location is the same for HP and LP...has to be.

I understand the housing will be in the same location Driverside. The pinion will sit high in the housing but does it sit on the inboard or outboard side of the housing.

It is still on the same side of the ring gear. Just above the axle center line instead of bellow. Unless you shorten the pass side tube, it will also move toward the drivers frame rail.